Pruning is one of the main ways to shape the osmanthus tree bonsai, and it is also an important means to maintain the shape. Reasonable pruning measures can not only make the tree beautiful, but also improve the ventilation and light transmission conditions, reduce the pests and diseases, and make bonsai flowers dense and dense. Below are the techniques and precautions for planting potted osmanthus trees that I have carefully compiled for you. Let’s take a look.
Potted sweet-scented osmanthus tree planting technology
Potted plant management
1). Watering: The sweet-scented osmanthus pot soil must be kept dry or dry. The principle of watering, watering thoroughly, but spray clean water on the leaves once a day, evenly spray all branches and leaves, and it is advisable to start with water droplets dripping down, so as to keep the leaves moist, and wash away the adsorbed particles on the leaves. dust. After the Qingming Festival, move the sweet-scented osmanthus to the open air and water it once. Watering must be done in the morning and evening in summer, and around noon in winter to keep the water temperature close to the soil temperature and avoid sudden cold and heat. Be careful not to accumulate water. Just keep the pot soil moist in winter.
2) Fertilization: Osmanthus is mainly used for flower viewing, so sufficient fertilizer should be supplied. When the shoots are growing, nitrogen fertilizer can be applied 1 to 2 times to promote the growth of branches and leaves; before flower bud differentiation and flowering, phosphorus fertilizer is mainly applied. After moving the sweet-scented osmanthus to the open air in spring, start pouring thinly decomposed bean cakes, sesame paste, fishy water, etc. once every half a month. Water once a week from the end of May to before flowering. The concentration of fertilizer and water gradually increases. Topdressing every half month from July to August. 0.5% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution at a time. Apply a light fertilizer solution after flowering to avoid causing autumn branches. In winter, more organic fertilizers and phosphorus and potassium fertilizers should be applied. Generally, 25 to 30 grams of retting and deodorized cake fertilizer and 10 to 15 grams of potassium dihydrogen phosphate are applied to the roots every 15 to 20 days, mixed with 2 to 3 kilograms of water. Apply after drenching, and spray 1000 times nucleotide on the leaves every 10 to 15 days. 600 times high-efficiency biological phosphorus and potassium fertilizer mixture, spray all branches and leaves evenly until water begins to drip. Before fertilizing, the pot soil should be slightly dry, and the soil should be loosened first to facilitate the absorption of fertilizer. Water should be watered once on the second day of fertilization. If compost or manure is used, it must be completely decomposed before use (the sign is that the fertilizer juice turns black). When applying chemical fertilizer superphosphate, its concentration cannot exceed 2%, and urea concentration is 0.5-1.0%.
3). Invert the pot: Potted osmanthus should be inverted and replaced with soil every 2-3 years. Cut off part of the old and dead roots, and use a bamboo skewer to remove part of the old soil. Before potting, put a layer of river sand or vermiculite on the bottom of the pot to facilitate ventilation and drainage, and place decomposed cake fertilizer on the bottom of the pot as base fertilizer. The filling soil must be compacted, which can promote the luxuriant flowers and leaves of the sweet-scented osmanthus. The soil ratio for potted hanging flowers is not very strict. It can usually be prepared with 1/3 each of garden soil, manure and river sand. If the acidity is too high, some lime powder or plant ash can be added; if the alkalinity is too strong, some aluminum sulfate or ferrous sulfate can be added. In spring, after the potted osmanthus is planted, water it thoroughly and then move it to a shaded place for about 10 days to allow it to "fit into the pot". During the potting period, no fertilizer can be applied. Water and fertilize only after growth resumes and new leaves appear. The texture of the flower pot is preferably purple sand pottery pot or glazed pottery pot, and the color is preferably purple or ocher, which can be in sharp contrast with the colors of flowers and leaves to increase its ornamental effect.
4). Trimming and shaping: The best shapes for the Osmanthus fragrans are curved stem, diagonal stem or flowing style. The tree spreads obliquely, with dense branches and leaves, simple and natural, and the most enjoyable to appreciate. When it blooms, the fragrance overflows and is refreshing. Osmanthus fragrans is generally reshaped by a combination of climbing and pruning. The main trunk can be climbed into a curved trunk shape or a diagonal trunk shape. The plastic pruning of Osmanthus fragrans should be carried out after autumn. For plants that grow very tall and have hollow lower branches and poor tree shape, the entire top branches can be cut off at 2/3 or 3/4. For plants that are "top-heavy" The upper branches of the plant that are too dense should be cut off, leaving only the smaller branches. Plants with too dense branches should be thinned out. After flowering, pruning should be carried out to remove leggy branches, dead branches, diseased branches, and densely grown thin branches.
5). Overwintering: The room temperature should be maintained at 0-5℃, and the relative humidity should be maintained at 50-80%. It is better to have better lighting indoors in cold winter, especially in early spring before the buds begin to sprout, and sufficient sunlight is required. In the spring of the following year, after the Grain Rain in North China (around the time of the Waking of Insects in the Huanghuai River Basin), potted osmanthus flowers are arranged to come out of the house. After leaving the room, first place them together in a leeward and sunny place outdoors, and then spread them out in rows to gradually adapt to the external environment.
6). Prevention and control of pests and diseases: Common diseases of Osmanthus include leaf spot, sooty stain, algal spot, root rot, iron deficiency, etc. Prevention and treatment should be based on the disease situation. Leaf spot, sooty spot and algae spot can be controlled by spraying 0.5 Bordeaux mixture or 5% carbendazim 500 to 1000 times. To prevent and control root rot, attention should be paid to keeping the soil loose and breathable and not to accumulate water; if it is caused by fungi, When root rot occurs, you can use 200 to 300 times of desenonium solution to irrigate the roots. Common insect pests of Osmanthus include sawflies, whiteflies, mites, Landrace scales, yellow thorn moths, etc. Sawflies, mealybugs, and mites can be sprayed with 40% dimethoate 1,500 to 3,000 times liquid to kill them. Except for Landrace scales, manual brushing can be used to kill them. In the first and second generation nymphs, 40% omethoate 1,000 times liquid or 40% fenitrothionate can be used. 500 times liquid spray to kill.
Precautions for planting potted osmanthus trees
1. Cultivation period and pruning. The so-called cultivation period refers to the period from after the bonsai osmanthus tree is finalized, pruned and planted to before it is processed and formed. The length of this period is related to the shaping method. If it is to be processed into a natural tree shape, the cultivation period after final pruning will be shorter. If you use the branch cutting method to shape the shape, it will take longer. Because the branches need to be pruned many times to take shape, it takes several months or even a year between two prunings.
After the osmanthus tree bonsai cultivated with tree stumps is pruned, the trunk and main branches have been determined. What needs further processing and pruning are the secondary branches and the thinner tertiary branches. The basic points to master when processing and pruning these branches are: a branch must have a certain degree of curvature, and each branch must be long or short to appear graceful.
When pruning branches, you should also pay attention to the buds and branches. According to the requirements of the shape, firstly, one of the axillary buds is selected; secondly, the alternate buds are determined according to the direction of branch emergence; thirdly, the long and leggy branches with long internodes are generally cut off, and one of the ya forked branches is cut off.
2. Pruning during the ornamental period. Pruning during the ornamental period refers to the pruning carried out after the osmanthus tree bonsai is formed to maintain the beautiful shape of the osmanthus tree. This kind of pruning is long-term and extensive and must be done carefully.
As an osmanthus tree bonsai for viewing flowers, it should be pruned hard after the flowers bloom and fade. Generally, only 2 to 3 buds are left on the branches, and the branches are cut short. New shoots that grow from branches in spring and summer should be removed in time if they are not needed for their shape. Generally, when branches grow to 20 cm, and when individual branches grow to about 30 cm, the tops of the branches should be cut off to control the length of the branches to facilitate the differentiation of flower buds.
Guanyong’s osmanthus tree bonsai can be pruned all year round, but the best pruning period is still in the spring before germination, because the temperature is not high at this time and the sap does not flow quickly.
How to cultivate potted osmanthus:
1. Pot soil selection:
When potting osmanthus, the pot soil can be mountain mud/humus soil: garden soil: The sandy soil should be prepared according to 5:3:2, or garden soil: manure: river sand can be prepared according to 1:1. When potting, decomposed organic fertilizer, bone meal, etc. should be added as base fertilizer.
2. Flower pot selection:
When potting osmanthus, it is recommended to choose a pot with good air permeability. The bottom fan comes with the tiles to facilitate drainage.
3. Potting time: