Old Shanghainese also called Mid-Autumn Festival "August and a half". There are many customs and activities in Shanghai, such as burning incense, fighting crickets and walking on the moon. Old Shanghainese stipulate that the whole family should get together for a reunion dinner on this day, in which ducks, taro and edamame are a must, also known as the "three treasures" of the Mid-Autumn Festival in old Shanghai.
The Mid-Autumn Festival in the south of the Yangtze River is the season when new ducks are on the market, when edamame and taro are picked, and the fifteenth day of the eighth lunar month is the day of ancestor worship. Therefore, edamame and taro are the "recommended first" offerings and become the necessary food for festivals. On the one hand, sacrifice is to remember and comfort our ancestors, and on the other hand, it is to pray for their blessing in the dark.
Ducks Shanghainese celebrate the Mid-Autumn Festival, and ducks are indispensable on the table. There are many local cooking methods for ducks, such as Babao duck, crispy duck, sauce duck, flat ham and old duck soup ... among them, Babao duck is the most representative. Duck belly should be stuffed with eight kinds of ingredients, such as ham, winter bamboo shoots, mushrooms, chestnut meat and shrimp, and the memory is full of fresh fragrance.
The custom of "eating ducks on Mid-Autumn Festival" can be traced back to its reason. First, because ducks are fat around the Mid-Autumn Festival, it is a good time to eat ducks; Secondly, it originated from the theory of "killing Tartars". Although the allusions of "killing Tartars" have different versions and different places, they are all about the peasant uprising that overthrew the Yuan Dynasty at the end of the Yuan Dynasty. Let's take a look at one of the widely circulated versions.
Mid-Autumn Festival "Killing Tartars" At the end of the Yuan Dynasty, Mongolian rulers oppressed the Han people, and the Han people decided to overthrow the Yuan Dynasty. However, at that time, the control was strict and it was impossible to clearly organize the struggle, so the code word was used. At that time, the Han people called the Mongols "Tatars", so they chose the homonym "Duck", and everyone agreed to sharpen their swords and kill the Tatars on the night of the Mid-Autumn Festival. Mongols saw every family sharpening their knives and asked them what they were doing. Residents replied that it was "killing ducks". According to legend, the custom of eating ducks in the Mid-Autumn Festival is that everyone acts together to overthrow the rule of the Yuan people.
In fact, not only Shanghai, but also Jiangsu and Zhejiang will eat ducks in the Mid-Autumn Festival. As far as the season is concerned, salted ducks are good in color, smell and taste before and after the Mid-Autumn Festival. This is because ducks are cooked in the season when osmanthus flowers are in full bloom, and duck meat will have the fragrance of osmanthus flowers, so salted duck is also called "osmanthus duck". There is such a record in "Bai Men Ji Recipe": "In August in Jinling, salted duck is the most famous, and everyone thinks that there is osmanthus fragrance in the meat."
Chinese medicine calls ducks "medicine", which nourishes the top grade. From the nutritional value and the impact on human health, it is reasonable to eat ducks in Mid-Autumn Festival. Autumn is the fattest season for ducks. More importantly, duck is a cool food, which has the functions of nourishing yin and stomach, promoting diuresis and reducing swelling, and is suitable for nourishing yin and nourishing body fluid and preventing autumn dryness.
Duck meat is not only nutritious, but also duck soup has anti-fatigue effect. Compared with other animal oils, the cholesterol content of duck oil is relatively low, and the proportion of saturated fatty acids, monounsaturated fatty acids and polyunsaturated fatty acids is better. Duck blood has the effects of enriching blood, clearing away heat and toxic materials.
Taro taro is called "taro" for short, and it is commonly known as "taro" and "taro" in Shanghai dialect. There is also a legend that taro is named "taro".
According to legend, during the Ming Dynasty, the Japanese invaded the southeast coast of China, and the people suffered greatly. The imperial court sent Qi Jiguang to lead the troops against the enemy, and made outstanding achievements. Celebrate victory in the camp on Mid-Autumn Festival. In the middle of the night, the enemy took the opportunity to sneak attack. Qi Jiguang and others were besieged on the mountain, and their food and grass were cut off. The soldiers dug weeds only to satisfy their hunger. They dug up a lot of wild taro, which tasted delicious, but they didn't know its name. Qi Jiguang said, "Let's call it' death' to commemorate the fallen soldiers."
One night, after being "killed" after a hearty meal, Qi Jiajun descended like a heavenly soldier and bravely broke through, destroying all the enemies in his sleep. From then on, people in the Southeast Sea will eat sugar and burn "death" every Mid-Autumn Festival to show Qi Jiguang's achievements in resisting the enemy and remember the immortal feelings of national peril from generation to generation. Because "killed" is homophonic with "Taro", the world calls it "Taro".
Southerners sacrifice the moon with taro in the Mid-Autumn Festival, because it is also a historical story to commemorate the killing of Tartars by Han people at the end of Yuan Dynasty. As mentioned earlier, the Han people sharpened their knives and killed Tatars on the night of August 15th. After the uprising, they offered sacrifices to the moon. Later, of course, it was impossible to sacrifice the head to the moon every Mid-Autumn Festival, so taro was used instead. Up to now, when eating taro in the Mid-Autumn Festival, cutting taro is called "cutting ghosts" in some places.
According to legend, at the end of the Song Dynasty and the beginning of the Yuan Dynasty, the Hu people destroyed the Southern Song Dynasty and established the Yuan Dynasty, which brutally ruled the Han people living in the southeast coastal areas. In order to guard against the resistance of the Han people, it is stipulated that only one kitchen knife can be used for every three households. The Han people also call it "tiger head", and "taro" is homophonic with "tiger head", so the head of the Hu people is compared to taro and regarded as a sacrifice.
The middle of August in the lunar calendar happens to be the season when taro is on the market. In Jiangsu and Zhejiang provinces, the pronunciation of taro is similar to that of "Yun". Therefore, eating taro in Mid-Autumn Festival is not only to enjoy food, but also to express hope for good luck. There is another saying, because taro is a plant propagated by bulbs, which symbolizes "mother-child dependence" and is another beautiful meaning.
In the past, old Shanghai had a reunion dinner on the Mid-Autumn Festival. A pot of taro was brought to the table, and the children scrambled to eat it. Old Shanghai ate the local "red-stalked taro", with a slightly pink root, which won't paste when dipped in sugar. It was delicious and refreshing.
Li Shizhen's Compendium of Materia Medica contains: "Taro, alias: squat. Historical Records, Zhuo Wenjun Cloud; Under Lushan Mountain, there are cockroaches in the wild, and they are not hungry until they die. " Eating taro has the functions of "widening stomach and filling skin, treating vexation and heat, breaking blood stagnation, cooking with fish, harmonizing middle energizer and tonifying deficiency". In other words, taro is good for stomach, intestine, laxative, detoxification, liver and kidney.
Besides dipping taro in sugar, when I was a child, I often cooked edamame and taro together, and fried edamame and taro together. The sound of edamame is "hairy head", which refers to babies or young children in Shanghai; Maodou is also called Maopod locally, and pod is homophonic with "Jia" and "Ji". So eating edamame is in the hope of good luck and everything goes well.
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