If we trace the origin of cold noodles, the current literature will eventually point to Du Fu's poem "Cold Tao of Sophora Leaves".
The so-called cold scouring is cold noodles. When Su Dongpo talked about "Cold Amoy of Sophora Leaves", he said: Cold Amoy was originally called "fish" by Shu people (that is, pickled fish and spoiled fish).
Zhu Xi's textual research: This statement is a false statement of Dongpo. But Zhu Xi did not deny that the word "cold scouring" came from Shu people. Among many Du Fu's poetry interpreters, some say that Cold Tao of Huaiye was written in Chengdu, and some say that it was written in the west of rang, that is, the west bank of Fengjie Lingshui, where Du Fu once moved. In a word, most of them tend to work in Sichuan. Although it can't be confirmed that cold noodles originated in Sichuan only by "Huai Ye Leng Tao", it at least shows that Sichuanese ate cold noodles in the prosperous Tang Dynasty.
Du Fu wrote in the poem "Cold Amoy of Sophora Leaves":
Green and high locust leaves, picked and decorated in the cupboard.
New noodles come near the market, and the juice is mixed with me.
If you are over-cooked, you will have no worries about adding food.
Everything is fresh and fresh, and the fragrant rice is also a bud.
Teeth are colder than snow, and people are advised to vote for pearls.
I would like to go with Jin Yan (three sounds of yao, three sounds of niao, that is, the steed) and walk with Jin Tu Su ...
It's time for the king to enjoy the cool night.
Pick tender leaves from tall Sophora japonica trees and send them to the kitchen. Mix the newly bought flour from the nearby market with the juice residue of Sophora japonica leaves. Cooked in the pot, I seem to have forgotten my sorrow after eating the leaves of Sophora japonica. The green color makes chopsticks glow, and it has the delicious taste of fragrant rice and asparagus. Chewing in the mouth is cooler than snow, and inviting people to taste it is like giving a gift with beads. I'd like to ride a swift horse and send the cold scouring of Sophora japonica leaves to the palace ... It's too late for the king to enjoy the cool and delicious food.
The poem also reveals: First, Du Fu learned how to make cold noodles in Shu; Second, there was no cold noodles in Beijing at that time. However, when the cold noodles spread to Kyoto, it became a delicious food that people competed for. "Tai Ping Guang Ji" said: "At the beginning of spring, the scenery is warm, and eating a plate of cold scouring, coriander and wormwood, is very fragrant and clean." "Guanglu Temple in the Sixth Canon of the Tang Dynasty" said: "Make soup cakes and millet mash (four tones of huo, that is, meat soup) in winter months, and Xia Yue cold-scoured and powdered porridge". In the Song Dynasty, according to the "Dream of Tokyo" written by yuan Zhen Meng of Song Dynasty, in the "Sichuan Hotel" in Beijing, there were ... large and small smeared meat scouring, fried (Yu four tones) meat, miscellaneous fried events, and cooked and cooked cooking. It can be seen that the cold noodles sold by Sichuan Hotel in Kyoto at that time were added with meat. Mr. Meng also said: Cold noodles sold in restaurants also include varieties such as "Silver Silk Cold Amoy" and "Silk Chicken Amoy". Fried shredded chicken is cold noodles with shredded chicken. Wang cheng, a poet in the Northern Song Dynasty, described the making, shape, color and taste of cold noodles in "Cold Wash of Chamomile":
The bread surface is new and thin, and it is as firm as a jade pier.
With the knife, the silver carving, boiling into the cold spring basin,
Mixed with this green color, it is fragrant against Dictyophora.
Pan Rongbi's "Victory at the Age of Emperor Jing" in Qing Dynasty records: "On the summer solstice, the capital is the day, and home furniture eats cold noodles, that is, it is said that the water surface is also the beauty of the capital." Huang Zunxian wrote with interest in "Shinobazu Pond's Poems on Night Tour":
The Hu is full of fishy smell, and the four families are gluttonous.
The ding is higher than the tower, and the hard cake is cut with a knife.
The vegetable is fragrant with alfalfa, and the wine is bright with grapes.
Cold scouring sticks to the mountain howling, and thick juice climbs the sand stove.
It seems that the ancients highly praised cold noodles. The emotion expressed in Du Fu's poem "Cold Tao of Sophora Leaves" also directly influenced the later literati's feeling of tasting cold noodles. Such as the Ming Dynasty dramatist Tang Xianzu's Cold Food:
There is no lack of interest in porridge chicken, and it is cold to clean up the smoke.
If you don't close the old fire and collect the locust, you will naturally love the bamboo kitchen.
Gu Zhenguan, a poet in the early Qing Dynasty, wrote in "Butterfly Lovers": Sleeping in a corner with a beautiful shade of Sophora japonica. Dreaming of Hua Xu, butterflies are dancing. When guests arrive at sunset, they stay thin and drunk, and they are cold-washed and cooked (bo two sounds, lasagna).
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