When I stepped into the gate of Jiazengguang Road Store in Haiwan, I first saw the doorman bow, asked several people first, and then began to report: "Guest X" and "Little Two pours tea". The noise was so loud that the whole restaurant echoed, and the first-time visitor was accidentally shocked. Then you see Xiao er coming from all corners, wearing a white silk shirt and black pants, and saying, "Here you are!" " "After saying his word, a waiter wearing a black melon hat took you to the dining seat. This series of cries first makes you feel that you are in a shop in old Beijing, and you have tasted the leisurely taste of old Beijing before you eat it.
On the walls around the restaurant, a number of picture scrolls painted by the famous folk painter Sheng Xishan are hung, which reproduce the local customs of old Beijing, including the features of famous streets such as Xie Jie, Xianyukou and Dashilan in Dai Yan in the 1930s, and the scenes of selling dried fruits, pot stickers and kidney bean cakes along the street that year.
Waiters are called Xiao er.
Here, the waiters who greet and shuttle busy are all young men, and the guests call them "Xiao Er" in the old Beijing era. The second child in the Bay House has a clear division of labor: the usher is wearing a small melon hat; People with white towels on their shoulders are responsible for pouring tea, ordering food and checking out; Dedicated to serving in Tsing Yi.
After reading it for a long time, I finally understand why the waiters are all men. At mealtimes, guests are served noodles tied with the river. A "two-child" should serve up to four bowls of noodles, plus vegetables and ingredients, and shuttle through the crowded crowd. It's like an acrobatic performance. You can't do this job without a certain arm strength.
The name "Xiao er" is very kind. Just shout, and all the "Little Two" will gather around and wait for your order. Some guests deliberately open their voices at the dinner table and greet two "small two", which often leads the "small two" to come forward together, and the people next to them also look at them happily.
■ Taste Workshop
Fried sauce is the most important.
Teacher Guan from Haiwanju told us that the essence of authentic old Beijing and Zhajiang Noodles lies in fried sauce. First of all, the yellow sauce you choose must be good. You should use the yellow sauce produced by regular famous brand manufacturers. Their soy sauce is of good quality. When making yellow sauce, white flour is added instead of sticky flour, otherwise the sauce will be easy to agglomerate and not easy to mix after cooling. Secondly, when frying sauce, we should master the temperature and ingredients, the temperature should be uniform, the proportion of fried sauce must be appropriate, diced meat should be fat and thin, and yellow sauce should not be put too much, so that the fried sauce is delicious.
In the past, old Beijingers used pigs to fry the noodles with dregs, which tasted delicious when they were hot, but once the lard was cold, the sauce solidified and could not be used. What's more, people's intestines and stomach are no longer suitable for eating lard fried sauce. Now it is healthier to fry with salad oil.
There are 8 kinds of dishes, including bean sprouts, celery, green beans, shredded cucumber, shredded radish, shredded cabbage, green garlic and garlic. It tastes cool. The favorite food in old Beijing is shredded cabbage. Blanch with boiling water before cooking, and take it out to eat with noodles.
Gluten is slippery but not hard.
Zhajiang Noodles has several kinds of noodles. Small bowls of diced meat, small bowls of eggs and single eggplant noodles are all 8 yuan/serving, and small bowls of diced meat and eggplant 10 yuan/serving. After consulting Xiao er, we ordered an authentic small bowl of diced pork fried noodles.
When Xiao Er brought the bowl, several side dishes, white, green, red and red, were really eye-catching and tender. Xiao Er helped us mix the sauce with side dishes and noodles, and we wolfed it down. Slag noodles should not be eaten too lightly, or they will be tasteless.
This noodle is cold and refreshing, and the taste of fried sauce is all on the noodle. It is fragrant but not greasy, and it is not as salty as expected. The noodles were hard, and I felt that I couldn't swallow them in my throat, but they were not hard and slippery, and I went in at once. Occasionally, shredded vegetables are crisp and slightly sweet, in sharp contrast to the gluten of noodles, neither hard nor soft, not bad. It tastes delicious and refreshing directly.
■ Relevant data
Sell more than 2000 bowls every day.
Zhajiang noodles, the home of sea bowls, can sell more than 2,000 bowls a day, which shows that the level is very unusual. A young man who specializes in kneading flour pointed to a bag of 50 kg of special flour and said that he mixed 8 bags of flour almost every day. The dough here is all made by hand, and the boy of 1.8 meters is a dough master. I start working at six o'clock every morning to make noodles. I make 400 kilograms of noodles a day. It is estimated that no one can do the job except him.
A pot of water can cook up to 3 noodles.
Slag river noodles are most afraid of cooking dozens of bowls of noodles in one pot. When the water is boiled too much, the noodles will be burnt and the soup will not go down. Boil the noodles three times, that is, add water and boil them three times. Don't cover the pot, or the noodles will be stewed. Cooked noodles are generally soaked in hot water, and noodles are not easy to stick.
People who eat noodles here like cold water to keep them cool in summer and hot water to keep them warm in winter. Real old Beijingers like to eat "pot pick (three sounds)", that is, when the noodles are cooked, they go out of the pot directly without adding water. However, this kind of boiled noodles needs to be mixed with sauce immediately, and it can't be put, otherwise it will be easy to agglomerate and taste bad after a long time.
Yiwanju Laobeijing Zhajiang Noodles
Address: No.22 Pufang Road, Fengtai District (there are two chain stores)
Mysterious customer: Miss Liu
Noodles: 8 yuan/Bowl, 3 Liang/Bowl, noodle soup and handmade noodles, which are hard and too cold according to the requirements of guests.
Sauce: The diced meat is bigger, but not much. It tastes salty, sweet and a little salty. More money with sauce, 3 yuan/bowl.
Face code: 6 kinds
Shredded radish, green garlic, bean sprouts, shredded cucumber, celery powder and green beans are relatively fresh, but some green garlic is relatively dry.
Service: There is garlic and vinegar on the table, and there is no free tea. Order slowly, serve quickly. Waiters wearing old Beijing white jackets and black pants are cleaner and have better service attitude. You can swipe your card. There is a paid parking lot opposite the noodle restaurant. The bathroom is relatively clean, equipped with hand sanitizer and toilet paper.
As soon as I entered the noodle restaurant, I looked up and saw several palace lanterns walking down the blue brick stone steps, and a red painted door just crossed the threshold. I heard the master shout, "Three, please come in!" . Walking into the lobby, square tables, long benches and wooden fans are separated, and guys in white jackets and black pants walk through them. Before they were seated, the thick Beijing flavor had come to their faces.
Open the menu, besides my favorite diced meat Zhajiang Noodles and egg Zhajiang Noodles, there are 23 kinds of noodles and fried noodles, and you can also find inby bean paste, cream fried cake, snowballing, Aiwowo, tripe and other Beijing snacks.
Haiwanju
Address: Head Office of Zengguang Road,No.1/KLOC-0, Haidian District (there are 4 chain stores)
Mysterious customer: Miss Xu
Noodles: 3 Liang for each bowl and 8 yuan for each bowl. Send noodle soup.
Sauce: diced meat is fat and thin, and oily. For diners with light tastes, the weight is enough. It tastes good. Some diners with big mouths can have another bowl of sauce for free.
Face code: 7 kinds
Green beans, shredded cabbage, shredded cucumber, shredded radish, diced celery, green garlic and bean sprouts are relatively fresh.
Service: When talking to customers, the guys in Bay House lean forward 30 degrees, which is good. But there is one drawback. When I asked for packing, the boy brought an environmentally friendly lunch box, but he didn't care about packing. The tea here is free, but there are no free chopsticks, only disposable chopsticks and wet towel sets for one yuan. You can use a credit card. You can park your car in front of the door.
"Here you are!" The waiter greeted him politely, and the business in Haiwanju was quite hot. There are many kinds of snacks. Stir-fried red fruit with sour and sweet cold salad tastes good, but a small bowl of 7 yuan is a bit expensive. Zhajiang Noodles was quickly sent to the front line in the slow tone of Beijing Qin Shu, banging ... The dishes were broken and crunched.
Laobeijing Zhajiang Noodles Wang
Address: No.29, Chongwenmenwai Street (there are 4 chain stores)
Mysterious customer: Mr. Deng
Noodles: 3 Liang or so, 8 yuan, Jindao, handmade noodles, noodle soup, too cold according to the requirements of the guests.
Sauce: it tastes ordinary and salty, and the meat inside is no more than 5 pieces.
Face code: 8 kinds
Chinese cabbage, shredded radish, shredded cucumber, diced celery, diced lentils, soaked soybeans, soaked green beans and bean sprouts are relatively fresh.
Service: There is no free tea. Give a bowl of laba garlic vinegar. In addition to shouting into the store, I will ignore you after ordering. Unless you catch a passerby now, you can hardly call anyone. The storefront is relatively spacious, and the surrounding atmosphere is still a bit old-fashioned. There are many kinds of snacks, but I don't think they are delicious. Mustard heap 6 yuan, not bad, you can't swipe your card. There are about 10 parking spaces.
The appearance of the store is a little old, and the store feels spacious, but there is always a feeling that the store is bullying customers in other aspects. What impressed me most was that those guys shouted as soon as they entered the store (their shouts really scared the foreigners who were eating next to them). There is no free tea, so you have to pay immediately after ordering. Guys, step aside. You can't hear me. I think the food is small and salty, and the man said, "That's the taste"! The food was served quickly, but it was poured into a bowl like a plate, and everyone on the table turned away. It's okay. Mustard heap is not bad.
Tianpengju
Address: No.2 C, Sanlihe East Street (there are 2 chain stores)
Mysterious customer: Mr. Meng
Noodles: 3 Shuang Yi Bowl, 10 yuan, handmade noodles, gluten, noodle soup.
Sauce: it tastes good, the diced meat is fat and the salinity is moderate.
Face code: 8 kinds
Toona sinensis powder, green beans, shredded Chinese cabbage, cucumber strips, shredded radish, bean sprouts, celery powder and green garlic, fresh.
Services: No free tea, 5 yuan a pot of tea, fresh garlic vinegar, safe child seat, parking in front of the door. The service attitude is average.
The owner of this shop is the first one in Beijing to open noodles with slag sauce, and the business in Fan Dian is good. His buddies are different, with more women and fewer men. There are many snacks. Fried enema, pink fish, fried small yellow croaker and stewed ribs are all good. The noodles are fresh and the fried sauce tastes good. I wish I could be more enthusiastic, man. (Reporter Zhang Yun)
Zhajiang Noodles, Zhajiang Noodles and noodles with gravy.
Northerners mainly make pasta, such as steamed bread, flower rolls, steamed stuffed buns, jiaozi, wonton, pancakes and noodles. But when Beijingers mention "noodles", it means noodles. Noodles mean "longevity". As the saying goes, "life has three sides", that is, "washing three sides", "longevity noodles" and "connecting three sides" Three days after the baby is born, there is a ceremony of washing three times. Eat three times to wish your baby a "long life"; Eating "longevity noodles" as usual on birthdays is called "longevity", which means "longevity";
The first sacrifice on the third day after death is called "taking three sides", and the guests are entertained with "taking three sides", which shows that the feelings of mourning the dead are endless.
In daily life, Beijingers prefer to eat noodles, and they have formed a fixed routine. Residents in the city generally only eat Lamian Noodles and sliced noodles. Hand Lamian Noodles rolled it into large pieces with a rolling pin on the noodle table, sliced it with a knife in his right hand, and rolled it to the left with his left hand, so as to dry the noodles and avoid adhesion. Finally, put them together, hold them in both hands, cut off the joints at both ends, and immediately put them into the boiling water pot; The cut surface is to roll the blended white flour into thin slices, sprinkle with dry flour and cut into filaments. In addition, there are wide "slats". After cooking, there are different toppings, which are divided into the following categories:
Zhajiang Noodles: The common one is diced pork fried sauce. Pure semi-fat diced pork with onion, ginger and garlic. It is fried in an oil pan, with yellow sauce, covered with a pot cover and simmered for 10 minutes. At this time, the diced meat was covered with yellow sauce, and the skin was red and bright. The four flavors are pork tenderloin diced fried sauce with three fresh (shrimp, tenderloin, magnolia slices) fried sauce, osmanthus (egg) fried sauce, fried tofu diced sauce, roasted eggplant diced sauce and other vegetarian products, which are oily but not greasy. Old Beijingers eat Zhajiang Noodles. In cold weather, they pay attention to eating hot food, which is called "picking pots" (there is no water at all) In hot weather, they eat water, but the soup must be ground. According to the season, with a variety of seasonal dishes, known as the "comprehensive code."
In early spring, bean sprouts with pinched heads and tails, only two radish tassels with cotyledons, were poured with the remaining Laba vinegar. In late spring, put flowers and pepper seeds in the sauce, which is called pepper sauce. The dough code is green garlic, Toona sinensis bud, pickles, mung bean mouth, radish tassel and silk (strips). In early summer, fresh garlic, blanched fresh peas, shredded cucumbers, shredded lentils and leeks are used to make noodles. Sesame paste noodles: Sesame paste noodles are a light meal for old Beijingers in summer. After the noodles are cooked, take them out of the pot and soak them in cold water, then pour in sesame sauce (salt, mixed with water), pepper oil (pepper oil fried with sesame oil is put into soy sauce while it is hot), rice vinegar, and then add shredded sauerkraut, green garlic, shredded radish, pickles, Toona sinensis buds and so on. Tastes like scones and bean jelly.
Noodles with gravy: commonly known as "noodles with gravy". When people hold weddings and funerals, if they use "fried noodles" to entertain relatives and friends, they will use noodles with noodles. Bitternization is generally to cook pork soup or mutton in a pot, which is full of fragrance. There are some non-sticky, and velvet antler is added to the soup to become the pouring juice of clear soup, which is called "Palu".
That is to hope to be understood, respected and recognized.
You are a part of the hotel, and you represent the whole hotel. The guests don't care whether you have worked here for ten years or ten days. What they need is a high level of service.
No matter what kind of cake you taste, you can appreciate the essence of the noodles and the unique flavor of the pasta culture.
Since its opening, business has been booming and customers are coming in an endless stream. The enterprise has launched the management slogan of "24 hours, 365 days without rest"! Pay attention to create a dining environment, express cultural connotation, and integrate into the fashion of today's society, so that people can eat culture, taste and feel at home. It is a common place for friends gathering, lovers dating and classmates gathering.
noodles
1, Haohe Yangchun noodles
2. Green vegetable noodles
3. Poached egg noodles
4. Braised egg noodles
5, tiger skin egg noodles
6. leek noodles
7. Mushroom and cabbage noodles
8. spiced vegetarian chicken noodles
9. Noodles with diced mushrooms
10, shredded pork noodles with pickled mustard tuber
1 1, shredded green pepper noodles
12, shredded Chinese cabbage noodles
13, tomato scrambled egg noodles
14, spiced beef noodles
15, Langshan Squeezed Noodles
16, golden triangle with large rows of noodles
17, Popo meatball noodles in Xi city.
18, braised beef noodles
19, Yipin Pork Intestine Noodles
20, tiger skin.
2 1, sliding shrimp noodles
22. Fried noodles with eggs and vegetables
23. Fried noodles with shredded pork
24. Braised beef fried noodles
25. Yipin Pork Fried Noodles
Noodles are commonly known as "noodles", "water surface" and "noodles"; In ancient times, it was called "soup cake", "luxurious noodles", "vegetarian cake", "boiled cake", "water-induced cake" and "no support" The word "noodles" came later.
According to research, Chinese noodles originated in the Han Dynasty and have a history of more than 2,000 years. At that time, all pasta was called "cake" and soup was called "soup cake". The early soup cake was flaky, and later it gradually evolved from flaky to strip. Noodles were basically formed in Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties. Such as: Northern Wei Dynasty? The "water cake" in Jia Dexie's Book of Qi Yaomin is close to modern noodles. Kim? "Tang Bingfu" by Shu said: "It's cold in the middle of winter, having a meeting in the early morning, and my nose is frozen with tears and my mouth is frozen with frost. Fill the gap and solve the war, soup and cake are the most. As weak as spring cotton, as white as autumn practice. The gas is thick and scattered, and the aroma is far away. The pedestrian lost his saliva in the lee, and the child looked empty and squinting. The holder licks his lips to make the waiter swallow. "
From the Southern and Northern Dynasties to the Tang Dynasty, the varieties of noodles were more abundant, including so-called "cold washing" cold noodles, and various "looking for cakes" caused by diet therapy, and there was also the custom of eating longevity noodles at that time.
The varieties of noodles developed more rapidly in the Song Dynasty, but in the Southern Song Dynasty? There are as many as thirty or forty kinds of records in the Tokyo Dream, Wu's Dream of the Beam, and Wulin Old Stories.
In the Yuan Dynasty, dried noodles that could be preserved for a long time appeared. There was a superb "Lamian Noodles" in the Ming Dynasty. The appearance of these noodle-making technologies has made great contributions to the development of noodles. In the Qing Dynasty, the most notable was the appearance of "spiced noodles" and "eight-treasure noodles", and in the Qianlong period, there was a unique "Yifu noodles".