20 1 1 year1On the morning of October 26th, the 800-year-old Huguosi Commercial Street reopened after two years of renovation. The newly opened Huguosi Commercial Street is 600 meters long, bounded by Mianhua Hutong, with traditional time-honored snacks such as Huguosi snacks on the west side and celebrities' former residences such as Mei Lanfang, quadrangles and private dishes on the east side. At the same time, the People's Theater, which has a history of more than 50 years, has been reopened today after two years of renovation, and has become a digital film and television shooting base for drama.
Snacks are too heavy for modern people.
They all hang the same signboard to sell wonton. Some shops are salty in taste, while others are thick in skin. Why are they different in taste? In the face of the "young people who want both delicious food and slimness", should the characteristics of Beijing-style snacks with more oil and salt and heavy mouth keep pace with the times? The "old neighborhoods" that have been supported for many years are gradually coming less and less. What should be done to keep them? In addition to the "hard problem" of high rent, high labor and low profit, the traditional "Jingweier snack" has to break through the bottleneck in "soft development".
Do you have to go to the head office to eat "authentic"?
On a cold evening, I always say a bowl of steaming wonton, but Beijing boy Xiao Zhou has a special liking for "wonton Hou". "It's just that the wonton in his shop is thin and stuffed, and the soup is delicious." However, Xiao Zhou said that there are more than one or two "wonton Hou" on the street. Where is the best place to eat, he has his own "picking": "You have to go to Longfu Temple and Dongsi North Street. In fact, there are also stores closer to me, but every time I go, I always feel that the skin is thick or the stuffing is light, and I always feel almost. "
There are franchisees and direct stores of the time-honored Jingweier snacks all over Beijing, but it is really not so easy to keep the taste of each store authentic and consistent. Many customers think that "the main store is much more delicious than the branch stores", and they would rather take a detour to queue up when they have time.
Suggestions: Snacks can also be "standardized"
"A little soy sauce and a little sugar. How much is this little? Since its birth 800 years ago, old Beijing snacks have been family workshop-style operations with strong randomness. " Hou Jia, president of the Old Beijing Snack Association, lamented that the reason why "foreign fast food" can enter China on a large scale is inseparable from its standardized operation. "Just take out a French fry and it's all the same taste."
Hou Jia said that when it comes to the change of old Beijing snacks, to achieve "snacks", we need to start with "standardization" first. "For example, a qualified biscuit should have a diameter of 6 cm, a width of 1 cm and at least 20 layers cut with a knife. It is necessary to use clear processes and operations to standardize the cooking of snacks. "
Can you change the taste of oil and salt?
"It's all fried. I have to catch up with a heavy-handed master and put more sugar. My weight loss this week will be ruined." At Huguosi snack bar on Monday evening, Miss Xu stuck to the counter for a long time, but she still didn't make up her mind to buy a fried cake to relieve her hunger. A pair of aunts and grandfathers next to them looked like "regular customers". As soon as the grandfather ordered a mutton offal soup, he was scolded by his wife: "You were originally' three highs', which is oily and salty, so eat less."
In Fangzhuang "Xiaochangchen", Miss Sun only ate half of the pot-stewed fire in her bowl. "The mouth is too heavy. If I eat it all, I have to call for water in the middle of the night." The reporter found that the characteristics of traditional snacks "rich in oil and salt and heavy in taste" are increasingly contrary to the concept of "healthy diet" of modern people.
Suggestions: the practice should develop towards "health"
It not only retains the traditional flavor of Jingweier snacks, but also "connects" with modern people's dietary concept. Bian Jiang, deputy secretary-general of China Cuisine Association, said: "We can appropriately' transform' the taste and production of traditional snacks in Beijing, such as reducing salt and oil, and we can also appropriately improve the processing technology."
In fact, there have been successful examples of such "transformation". "In the past, salt, alkali and alum were emphasized in baking oil cakes, but now' alum' is no longer used. This is an adjustment to a healthy direction and does not affect the taste." The person in charge of Nanlaishun snacks told the reporter.
Can the old street square have some "preferential rights"?
Where is the authentic fried liver? Old Beijingers will say that it is the "Tianxingju" of fresh fish mouth. This old shop, founded in 1933, has welcomed many old neighborhoods in Beijing since it was reopened in the first half of this year. However, because there are too many Chinese and foreign guests coming every day to catch up with the "meal", the elderly customers simply can't squeeze in.
"Now it's not easy to sit in the shop with the old neighborhood and stop for a bowl of fried liver." Until 1: 30 noon, there were fewer guests waiting in line for dinner in the store, and Uncle Hong, who came from Huilongguan, found a seat. "I have been wandering outside for 40 minutes." The 78-year-old uncle Hong used to live in Liangfang, and he is an old customer of this store. After reopening this year, he comes almost once a month. However, Uncle Hong also complained that nowadays it is always "unable to climb on the second floor, and there are too many people on the first floor to sit".
Hou Jinbo, an old man who is drinking fried liver in the store, also said that the old neighborhoods that often came to eat together in the early years are now old and inflexible. "It is really impossible to queue up with ordinary customers."
Suggestions: setting up "special time for old neighborhoods"
The old man Hou Jinbo said that as an old customer, he suggested that the store should set up a "special time" for the old neighborhood: for example, two hours should be set aside on a fixed day of the week for the old Beijing residents over 75 years old or those who lived here 30 years ago to get together and set up special reserved seats. This will not only attract the old streets to come here often, but also give the old people preferential treatment in service. "Tianxingju's most loyal customers are these old neighborhoods, and the old neighborhood is also a landscape in the old shop."