In the eyes of Chaoshan people, kale is undoubtedly the best vegetable. As the saying goes, "Good fish, horse mackerel and pomfret, and good cabbage, kale? Su six niang, a good play, is to compare the tender stems of Chinese kale with high-quality fish such as mackerel and pomfret and the best drama Su six niang in traditional Chaozhou opera. Chaoshan people's love of kale can also be confirmed from the following aspects.
Chinese kale in Chaoshan dialect? "?" It is my textual research, usually written as "sample", which means flower moss.
first, I have always liked it since ancient times. In the local chronicles of Chaozhou, most of the products of Chinese kale are described. For example, Qing Qianlong's "Chaozhou Prefecture Records" records: "Chinese kale is as sweet as mustard, and its leaves are blue. When refined, it can produce lead, also known as blue. "Guangdong Tongzhi": Blue is the beauty of food. " The earlier Qing Yongzheng's "Jieyang County Records" also said: "Chinese kale: the leaves are blue and thick, blue and blue, and the dishes are beautiful. A kale, with its taste and mustard, flowers and orchids. " From the praise of "the beauty of dishes", we know that chaozhou people has regarded kale as a good dish for hundreds of years. The reason why kale is called kale is that it looks like an orchid when it blooms.
Chinese kale is the most beautiful dish, which is different from mustard, flowers and orchids by its taste.
the second is to cultivate many famous varieties. Good kale is produced in almost every county and township in Chaoshan. The most famous ones are Chenghua kale in Chaozhou Fucheng, Taoshan kale in Jiedong Fort, Red-footed kale in Jiexi Mianhu and Longjiang kale in Huilai County. In terms of varieties, there are also mushrooms, red-footed kale, big-headed kale, fine-leafed kale, tall-stemmed kale, yellow-flowered kale and white-flowered kale. These local famous products are well-known for their crispy fragrance. Among them, Taoshan kale also has a very funny folklore called "Taoshan bride surprised everyone". It is said that in ancient times, a Taoshan woman married to a foreign country to be a bride (daughter-in-law). When she cooked in the kitchen for the first time, she used four unique skills: thick fork (lard), fierce fire, fragrant soup (fragrant fish sauce) and sprinkling water to stir-fry Chinese kale. The crackling sound of cooking actually scared everyone (mother-in-law) to death on the spot!
Taoshan kale is the best, and there is a very funny folklore called "Taoshan bride shocked everyone"
Red-footed kale in Mianhu, Jieyang.
Chinese kale is the leading mushroom.
Chinese kale.
the third is to form a unique cooking method. The four unique tricks used by Taoshan bride are actually the traditional methods for Chaoshan people to stir-fry Chinese kale. Among them, Chinese kale is thick because it is very oil-absorbing, and strong fire is to make Chinese kale greener, and fish sauce will make Chinese kale more delicious. Sprinkling water is because Chinese kale has less water content and its leaves are waxy, and the high-temperature steam generated after mixing water with oil will make Chinese kale easier to stir-fry. If you don't do this, the fried kale will not taste right. Chaoshan people often stir-fry Chinese kale with fork meal and preserved plaice, which is lard residue. Preserved plaice is a kind of dried flounder, which can produce a special taste when fried with Chinese kale.
stewed kale head made by Chaozhou cuisine research institute.
Stir-fried Chinese kale with Chaozhou cuisine is similar to Shaolin's introductory kung fu, Luohan Boxing. Although it is a kind of home-cooked dish, it embodies the basic characteristics of Chaozhou cuisine. As the boxing proverb goes, "If you want to be good at Lohan, look inside Sanzheng." This "three straightness" means that the hand, body and horse (horse stance just look) should be straight. There are also "three tips" for stir-frying kale: thick fork (lard), fierce fire and fragrant soup (fish sauce). Nowadays, many people know these "three tips", but few can use them freely. And once you really understand it, you can fry a kale. Although you can't say that you have glimpsed the popularity of Chaozhou cuisine, you know a thing or two.
Cantonese cuisine and Chaozhou cuisine have different approaches to kale. Guangfu cuisine is "soft-fried" with "flying water" and oyster sauce: first, the dishes are "cooked" in oil and salt water, drained, arranged in plates, and then served with oyster sauce and monosodium glutamate. Chaozhou cuisine uses "hot oil" and "hard frying" with fish sauce. These two cooking methods do not care who is superior or inferior, but only reflect that there are different dietary concepts between Guangfu cuisine and Chaozhou cuisine.
fried beef with Chinese kale.
Personally, I am inclined to "stir-fry" with tide style, because it not only preserves the original taste of Chinese kale, but also adds "wok gas". In this method, because there is no need for "flying water", the aromatic substances and nutrients in Chinese kale will not be lost; Moreover, because the high-temperature oily steam generated by the fierce fire in the hot wok can "stir-fry" the vegetables thoroughly, making the dishes more tasty and crisp. Attached is a stir-fried kale, which looks green and dripping, close to the aroma and can't stop eating. Chaozhou cuisine can be unique in the world, and the reason can be found from this home-cooked dish.
the whole fried mushroom grows kale.
the "key" of stir-frying Chinese kale is as above. Among them, "thick fork" means that Chinese kale absorbs oil better, so it should be oiled more than other vegetables. There are many kinds of kale, in terms of advantages and disadvantages, yellow flowers are better than white flowers, narrow leaves are better than broad leaves, flower moss is better than the whole plant, and manure is better than chemical fertilizer; In terms of rhizome, there are big and small heads. In short, when frying, we should master it flexibly according to the specific situation. If there is more oil in the leaves, there should be more oil, and if there are more stems, there should be less.
Guo Mangyuan, a painter and calligrapher, also ate a kind of "army kale", and everyone burst into laughter after telling it. It is said that once he had dinner in Chaozhou, the "Fucheng", and because the "Chenghua" kale was very famous, he ordered it. It was easy to ask if the dish was tender. The shopkeeper reluctantly said, what is tender or not is "army kale"! After tasting it, it was crisp and fragrant, so I asked what "army kale" was. The shopkeeper pointed to the back window and said, See the barracks of those troops! Soldiers are all virgins around the age of 2. The kale poured out with their urine is crisp and crisp after frying. It is difficult to soften them!
The army kale, after frying, is crisp and crisp.
The purpose of fierce fire is to vaporize oil and water in the shortest possible time, and quickly steam kale to keep it green and crisp. It is said that in the late 197s, a dish of fried kale in Shantou Mansion demanded money from 3 yuan, and some people questioned the hotel with huge profits. The chef's explanation is that it takes two tablespoons of lard to fry a dish of Chinese kale. One spoon is added to the dish in the wok, and the other spoon is added to the coal stove under the wok, which makes it instantly ignite the flame, and the fried Chinese kale is delicious.
In fact, there is another "trick" to stir-fry Chinese kale, which is "bringing water". Chinese kale is a kind of vegetable with less water content, so you must bring water with you when cooking, otherwise, no matter how much oil and fire are, the vegetables will turn yellow and get old. Cover the pot quickly, let the oil and steam steam the dish until it is 8% cooked, then uncover it and add good fish sauce and monosodium glutamate to stir fry, and then serve. In fact, kale is very much like a woman. Women can't live without water, and kale can't live without water. Lao Tzu said that governing a big country is like cooking a little fresh food, and there are many truths in life that are interlinked.
It is said that Ding Richang, the minister of the late Qing Dynasty, loved Chinese kale most. When he served as a platform in Shanghai, he specially brought rapeseed from his hometown Jieyang for planting. Up to now, Chinese kale is still called Ding Gong dish in Shanghai and Suzhou. Although it is difficult to verify this legend, Chinese kale originated in Guangdong. When Su Dongpo was exiled to Huizhou in the Northern Song Dynasty, there was already a poem "Chinese kale is like a mushroom, crisp and beautiful, and its teeth and cheeks are ringing", so it is still based on some facts. Studies have also pointed out that Chinese kale is the same species as cabbage originated in the Mediterranean coast, and it is closely related to its close relatives, such as broccoli (broccoli) and cabbage (cabbage). It is a new variety of cabbage bred in the unique geographical and climatic environment of Guangdong after it was introduced into China. By the way, Chaoshan cabbage, commonly known as Geqi, is the raw material for local pickled winter vegetables. Some varieties of Chinese kale leaves grow too big and round, and the saying goes, it will be dubbed "Ge Ge Bian"!