Top_Manchu food customs and the Qing dynasty imperial meals with pictures
Snacks marketing is all?Snacks marketing is all about?
The publicity of folk snacks is often: Emperor Qianlong's private visits or six Jiangnan, when the hungry, loss of appetite, so-and-so offer or from where to get, eat/drink appetite shocked praise; eight allied forces to enter Beijing, Cixi fled west in a haste, no clothes, no food, occasional folk food, ate it after the praise, back to the palace after the cooks recruited to the palace. Such a trope seems to be in all and celebrities linked to the introduction of snacks, but why so many emperors and generals, in favor of Qianlong and Cixi became the most widespread spokesman for folk snacks?
The most direct reason is that the Qing Dynasty is the closest feudal dynasty to modern society, and there are relatively more folk stories and legends. Another is that Qianlong and Cixi in the history of the Qing dynasty undoubtedly belongs to the C position in the male and female gender, coupled with the Qianlong emperor six to Jiangnan; Cixi west to escape through Hebei, Shanxi, Shaanxi, and return to the Henan, so their footprints are richer compared to the other emperors and empresses, and therefore snack foods around the world also want to take advantage of ? Climbing the dragon and phoenix? stories to increase their popularity, but some food stories are too far-fetched. (Humble desire to survive: all the snacks covered in this article, just for historical comparison, no denigrating malice.)
Above_ Caricature of Cixi fleeing west drawn by the West
Qianlong: No, I didn't go to eat itFor example, Luoding intestinal noodles, legend has it that Emperor Qianlong traveled to the south of the Yangtze River at that time, compelled by the compulsion of the foodie minister Ji Xiaolan, specifically turned to Luodingzhou to eat Longkit patties. When eating Longkit patties, Qianlong was full of praise, and said: this patty is not really patties, but a little like pig intestines, why not call it intestines, Luoding intestinal noodles thus named.
But in fact, Emperor Qianlong has never been to the south of Jiangnan in Guangdong Province, Luo Dingzhou, the furthest place Qianlong went down to Jiangnan is the Jiangzhe zone, so never set foot in Luo Dingzhou, and how to go to Luo Dingzhou to eat intestinal noodles it? Plus by the foodie Ji Xiaolan compulsion of the statement is also confused, because Ji Xiaolan in the Qing Dynasty history is famous only eat meat, do not eat rice and noodles of the gourmets, how will go to eat intestinal flour this in his eyes belong to? Vegetarian?
And according to a Qianlong thirty years on the southern tour of the "Jiangnan section as usual meal bottom file" records, on the southern tour of the Emperor Qianlong ate is still accompanied by the Imperial Chef did: a product of bird's nest stewed in icing sugar, fried chicken chowder hot pot of a product, bird's nest of duck silk a product, slices of mutton a product of steaming duck battered pork save the plate a product of spoons biscuits and cakes a product of the red cake, a product of the bamboo rolls buns head.
Above _ Qianlong Emperor's southern tour map
As for the then Suzhou weaver Pu Fu offered duck with glutinous rice, stewed meat, bird's nest chicken, green bamboo shoots and bad chicken and other food, are in the menu after the note is what people offer, who cooks. Even the Qianlong Emperor's own Imperial Tea and Catering Room dishes, will be in the corresponding dishes behind the note Zhang Dongguan, Zhang Cheng, Song Yuan and other imperial chefs.
According to the 24th volume of Yangji Zhai Series Records written by Wu Zhenli, the governor of Yunnan and Guizhou during the Jia Dao period, it is recorded that: ? Catering room respectfully prepare the imperial meal, its items and something who cooks, day by day to open a single draft, presented to the Minister of the Interior painted line, so or cooking is not appropriate, the Division of its perpetrators can not be blamed, sincere respect very much to also?
In order to ensure that the emperor's dietary safety, the source of food and cooking staff are specialized records, local officials into the food also has a clear record, while sending more than meet the emperor's taste for food. If some local specialties are served rashly, the emperor does not like or the best result, if the dragon body has a lapse, I'm afraid that no one is difficult to bear.
Above_ The Eight-Power Allied Forces entered the capital
Above_ In June 1901, the Eight-Power Allied Forces put up a notice listing 14 rules restricting the activities of the Chinese people in the area under their occupation
Cixi: No, I haven't eaten itAs for being praised by Cixi? Pingyao Bowl Toro? , too, is just a merchant's goodwill. The story of this snack and Cixi is probably: in 1900, the Eight-Power Allied Forces attacked Beijing, Empress Dowager Cixi fled westward through Pingyao, hungry, ate Pingyao Bowls, praised, and on the spot to give a heavy reward, which made Pingyao Bowls famous in the capital.
But the problem is that, according to Cixi, when she fled westward, she served as? the front-road grain station? (the person in charge of logistics), Wu Yong, a magistrate of Huailai County, showed in his account in the Gengzi Western Hunting Series. Cixi continued to flee westward from Huailai County by the route of Huailai? Xuanhua? Datong? Yangqu, and then from north to south to Taiyuan. Pingyao is south of Taiyuan, so Cixi fleeing Taiyuan on the road and will not pass through Pingyao, and in Pingyao to eat a bowl of Toro, how will be in the capital of the great shock, this brain circuit is a little clear.
Above_ Empress Dowager Cixi on the way to the west
Of course, Cixi then fled from Taiyuan to Xi'an, which may pass through Pingyao, but there will be absolutely no more hunger to eat these folk? The first time I've seen this is when I've been in the middle of a long journey. In Huailai County, because just escaped from the capital, Cixi and Guangxu woefully divided mung bean gruel, hard-boiled eggs, but after arriving in Taiyuan, capital of Shanxi, Shanxi governor Yuxian in order to save his life, trying to flatter the two palaces. Even the Jiaqing Emperor to prepare for the tour of Wutai Mountain when the Royal dependence, furnishings are moved from the Treasury, in the two Palace food and housing are presented a royal weather.
Even Cixi close to the palace maid Ronger also said, since the arrival in Taiyuan, there is no longer like just out of the palace, picking cowpeas in the wild boiled to eat the day. And because of the arrival in Taiyuan coincided with the Mid-Autumn Festival, they these palace maids have also begun to use ivory-made ? Crab eight pieces? Eating crabs. Leave Taiyuan, Yuxian to Cixi prepared warm water pots are inlaid with onyx, water bowls have been replaced with cloisonné, and even the tea is sealed with a bamboo tube, tied with a yellow damask of the Southern Tribute Tea, so the bowl of this kind of? Slightly cold? The food at this time is not into the eyes of the old Buddha.
Above_ Jiaqing Emperor (1760?1820)
Real royal food of the Qing DynastySo what did the Qing Dynasty emperors and queens eat in their daily lives? According to the bottom file of the meals of the Ministry of the Interior and the? Palace points? Records, the Qing dynasty palace is the largest use of pork, followed by mutton, duck, biscuits and milk tea (ennnnm really milk tea everyone loves), Qianlong prefers bird's nest, Cixi does not eat mutton. And in terms of taste, the early Qing dynasty food is the biggest feature? Heavy salt and color? , with the continuous integration of and Han culture, as well as Jiangsu and Zhejiang food into the court, the Manchurian taste is slowly fade down, but the taste is still inclined to fat.
Pork in particular, it has an important position in the Qing dynasty in the other food incomparable. First of all, the Kun Ning Palace rituals will be used to a large number of pigs, as the Empress of the Ming Dynasty residence of Kun Ning Palace, to the Qing Dynasty has become a sacrifice to the gods, cooking meat? Central Kitchen? Kun Ning Palace daily sacrifice is divided into the morning sacrifice, the evening sacrifice, each time with a healthy and disease-free black pig two mouths, in the palace of the two pots cooked for the gods. But because of the daily cooking of four pigs, so from the Yongzheng years Kuning Palace pork, there are eunuchs sold out of the palace for extra money records.
Above_ Kunning Palace West Mezzanine partition door with a high roll of curtains, door beside the chiropractor
And to the next day of the New Year's Day each year and the spring and autumn during the great sacrifice, the emperor also went to the Kunning Palace to offerings in person, and led the near branches of the princes, feudal princes, close to ministers, etc. to share the sacrifices of the gods after the ? The entertainment meat. The Royal Festival of the gods to share the? The entertainment meat? For the ministers is the supreme honor, but the old custom of Manchuria: eat these sacrifices to the gods of meat can not leave the place of sacrifice to the gods, and also can not overnight. So the ministers must eat the meat in front of the emperor's face, and these do not add seasoning, bland and tasteless pork also makes the ministers a big headache. So the rumor that soy sauce paper wipes the knife and so on was born, and it even gave rise to a dish called ? White boiled pork? Beijing's most famous dish.
If the gods need a lot of pork, then the daily consumption of pork in the harem is even larger. According to the "Qin Ding Palace in the current rules and regulations? Palace points" records: the Empress Dowager daily with fifty pounds of pork a mouth, the Empress with pork sixteen pounds, the Imperial Consort with pork twelve pounds, the rest of the grades in accordance with the decreasing rank, the lowest grade promised to give twelve pounds of pork per day.
Only from the Empress Dowager, Empress, Royal Princess in accordance with the number of daily use of pork, the three of them every year to use up 28470 pounds of pork. So in the Qianlong emperor and Cixi's food basket, neither the imaginary daily hump, scarlet lip, nor simple random folk snacks, but with a strong fishing and hunting ethnic characteristics of the diet, while also supporting a rigorous dining system.
Above_ Yu Deling (1886-1944), pen name Princess Deling
What did the empress love to eat? Confidential!Taking Cixi as an example, De Ling once accompanied Cixi to Shengjing for an inspection, and since she was facing each other night and day on the train, she wrote in her "Second Year of the Qing Palace" that the old empress very much loved duck, and especially loved duck skin. But in fact, for security reasons, Empress Dowager Cixi never easily tell anyone what she likes to eat, and do not allow anyone to inquire about what she loves to eat.? Because you are not allowed to know, you are not allowed to know, who if blindly blow the old empress love to eat what dishes, love to eat what snacks, beware of the head move?
At the same time in the meal, Cixi will never experience ? Feast? is what it feels like. Because when she ate, there were four men standing around her to enforce? The family law? The eunuch. Whenever the Empress Dowager was about to eat the third spoonful of the same dish, the eunuch in charge would shout ? Remove?
If someone wants to be a?
If someone wants to be a lickspittle and intentionally let his master eat a few more bites, another eunuch will immediately come up and give him a few? (i.e. wearing leather gloves to pump big mouth). According to Puyi when he went to school, accompanied by reading Pu Jia recalled that the Qing Dynasty meal system to pay attention to? Eat a look at two eyes to see three? These dazzling array of dishes are not all for eating, more is known as? Look at the dishes?
Above_ Cixi court photo
And contrary to what most snacks preach, a lot of snacks related to the royal family is not only not imported from the folk, but instead, it is from the palace out of the circulation. Such as the famous ? Imitation meals? , Saqima as the representative of the Manchurian meat and potatoes and the aforementioned white boiled meat and so on, are from the palace out of the dishes, snacks.
Once the Imperial Tea and Catering Room food production techniques are very mysterious, and even the Kangxi Emperor in giving the minister Xu Qianxue eight treasures after the practice of tofu, Xu Qianxue also have to pay 1,000 taels of silver to the Imperial Catering Room? Intellectual property fee? But after entering the Republic of China, the Sun Ching royal family to reduce the use of the imperial chef was a large number of demobilization, many with the palace characteristics of the food began to enter the folk, and spread. And the reason why China's specialty snacks in the north and south of the river went to great lengths to hook up with the palace, but just to earn a couple of extra dollars of silver.
Just as Zhao Lirong satirized in the skit "Empress Dowager Restaurant", where the name of the palace, with Qianlong and Cixi as spokesman, is the ordinary ingredients can fly on the branch into a phoenix. But for ordinary diners, as long as it is not intentional fraud, the real thing, even if the dishes, snacks, the story is too bizarre, full of delicious diners can laugh it off.
Wen: Wei Siwei
References:
1 Listening to the Rain (听雨丛谈), Qing Dynasty, Fuge (福格)
9《清宫述闻》Zhang Naiwei, etc.
10《宫中饮撰》Meng Fanzhi
11《晚清宫廷生活见闻》National Committee for the Research of Literary and Historical Materials of the Chinese People's Political Consultative Conference (NCCPPCC),edited by the NCCCCPPCC
Text by the team of the History University Church (HUCOM), with photos from the Internet copyrighted by the original authors
.