As a result, Goujie Roast Duck has sprung up and gained a great reputation, eclipsing other roast ducks in Kunming and Yiliang. At that time, in order to eat Liu Wen's roast duck, people took an early train from Kunming to Dog Street. After a full meal, they wiped the oil stains on their mouths with a lingering fragrance between their teeth in the afternoon and took the late bus back to the provincial capital with peace of mind. Diners who come from Kaiyuan in the south have to stay in Dog Street for one night before returning the next day. Some diners put forward that "it doesn't matter if you don't rake, cut and eat, and pay for it" in order to catch up with the journey or be impatient and greedy, which is absolutely impossible.
Once, a lieutenant colonel and battalion commander of the Kuomintang took his wife and entourage to Lunan by sedan chair, passed through Dog Street, and went into the store to eat roast duck. After several times of urging, he automatically uncovered the furnace cover with a duck hook. Liu Wen was furious and quarreled with him. Pull out a pistol over there and fuck a kitchen knife over here. The battalion commander finally didn't eat the roast duck and left angrily. Liu Wen took this batch of roast duck with the smell of flash fire at a loss and gave it to the small restaurant opposite Ma Guangrong for stew.
Liu Wen reached the point of stubbornness in order to maintain quality and reputation, so there was a saying at that time: Liu Wen's roast duck was delicious, and his face and mouth were ugly. Every year after the autumn, Ma Ya first gained weight, and Liu Wen was invited to the provincial capital with his apprentice Yang Guocai and others, where he made a great appearance in the provincial capital and its four halls, and was amazed by his skills. Long Yun, Chairman of Yunnan Province, presented a red banner with a joint inscription. Over the years, people from all walks of life have presented numerous congratulatory couplets, plaques and banners. One couplet wrote like this: "Nanpu has a new swallow dance before spring, and Xicun has a fat duck after autumn."
Liu Wen has a son, Liu Wenda, who is good at raising ducks but not roast ducks. Liu Wengao is Yang Guocai, and Yi Chuan's son Yang Dechun.
Qiyuan
The origin of China roast duck, according to "China Cooking Ceremony", originated from the court of the Tang Dynasty. However, its origin is unclear, and it is difficult to determine the evidence. And there is a conclusive record, which is actually seen in the late Qing Dynasty. In the sixth year of Xianfeng in Qing Dynasty (1856), Yiliang was a soldier. Cen Yuying, who rose from Yiliang to Yunnan-Guizhou Governor, made an alliance with Yang Fuzhang, Cai Biao, He Xiulin and others in the "Shunhelou" hotel opened by Cao Shi, the north corridor under Huaqiao County, and drank raw chicken blood wine. Cen Yuying, who loves delicious food, had a whim and asked the shopkeeper Jian Cao to try to burn the whole duck with chestnut charcoal fire. Delicious and fragrant, eat a lot. This method of roasting ducks with open fire was invented in Yiliang. Later, Cen Yuying and others became the government officials of the Qing court, with He Xiulin and Cai Biao as the military gate, and Chen Mingyu, a city scholar, took charge of Yunnan Wuhua Academy. Every time these people return to Yiliang, they will go to the "Shunhelou" to eat Cao's roast duck. When the interest was strong, Cen Yuying once recalled: "I came up with this taste." Chen Mingyu said, "Let's call it' Kung Pao Roasted Duck'." "Gong Bao" is an elegant name for the governor's office. Cen was an official at that time, so Chen Mingyu said something. It is also Cen Yuying's idea to put chopped dried chili pepper into the pot before putting other meat dishes in the dishes with Yunnan flavor today, such as "Kung Pao Chicken" and "Kung Pao Cabbage". Therefore, the accurate names of the dishes should be "kung pao chicken" and "Kung Pao Cabbage". Immediately, Chen Mingyu wrote a book and gave it to Cao's "Shunhe Building": "Delicious food can attract guests from all over the world, and the fragrance leads to the fairy in the cave", which is dedicated to praising this "Kung Pao Roasted Duck". Now this couplet has been quoted by the catering industry in other places, but I gradually forget that it was written by Chen Mingyu, and I don't know that it was specially written for "Kung Pao Roast Duck". Cao Shi roast duck with open fire, until Liu Wen, a dog street person, came back from Beijing to learn the method of stewing in a dark fire and spread it in Yiliang, and Cao's barbecue was also improved.
As for when the roast duck in Beijing was invented, historical records are lacking and it is impossible to know in detail. According to legend, Cixi had eaten roast duck in the palace during the Tongzhi period (about 186 1 year). In terms of time sequence, it should be sold several years later than the "Kung Pao Roasted Duck" invented by Cen Yuying. I wonder if this method was taught to the court by Cen Yuying when he visited Cixi in Beijing? Roast duck in Beijing spread to the court in the late Qing Dynasty, and it was divided into two factions: Quanjude, which was barbecued with open fire, and Cheap Square, which was barbecued with dark fire. These two factions still exist today. The cooking methods of roast duck all over the country are either one or the other, and they are also inseparable from these two factions.
"Cheap Square" has been in Beijing since its birth, and now it is called "Old Cheap Square". At the same time, the roast duck restaurant in Tianjin is called "Juquande". Juquande's poor management in Tianjin was on the verge of bankruptcy. It only moved to Beijing in the early years of the Republic of China and gradually became a big success. According to the report, Tianjin Juquande listed Zhangye for Tongzhi of Qing Dynasty for three years (1864), which was 8 years later than Yiliang. At least Liu Wen had not moved to Beijing when he entered Beijing. Therefore, what Liu Wen could see and learn in Beijing at that time was only the "cheap square" way of stewing in the dark fire. China roast duck two factions, invented in Beijing, did not make a big barbecue in Beijing, but his apprentice made it big and red in Dog Street, Yiliang County, Yunnan Province, becoming the flag of South Duck; The open-fire barbecue method invented in Yiliang has not been enlarged in Yiliang, but has been replaced by foreign stewing furnace. Although there is no evidence that Beijing's open-hearth barbecue came from Yiliang. However, the same method failed to be done by Juquande, but it became a big success from the renamed Quanjude, which became the first brand in China catering industry and enjoyed a high reputation all over the world. This fact itself shows that the invention of methods is important, but the success of the cause depends entirely on people, and it is the operator's lofty pursuit and serious attitude of creating brand reputation, meticulous and striving for perfection. The success of dog street Liu Wen fully proves this point. ?
Xueyi
Liu Wen went to Beijing to study art because of Xu Shi. Xu Shi (1873 ~1923) was born in Shenwuying Village, Dog Street (Xu is a noble family in Shenwuying. Akita has moved to Nishimura). In the 27th year of Guangxu reign in Qing Dynasty (190 1), the autumn examiners of two subjects, Geng Zi, Xin Chou En Zheng, were held in parallel. The following year (1902), she was sponsored by the public to go to Beijing for an examination. Liu Wen, a farmer from the same village, went to Beijing as an extremely helpful attendant and stayed near the old cheap square in Mi Shi Hutong. Because he often went to eat, he knew his taste. Liu Wen is flexible and quick-thinking. After studying, he has to be praised, because he went to the old cheap shop to observe carefully and learn barbecue skills seriously. After returning to Goujie, after several years of preparation, I improved my skills in Beijing, and then I built my own earthen stew stove, which was specially designed for the grain-ripe season, and began to barbecue local duck, and took it out at Goujie Railway Station or Bailiansi Township Street Market Town, which had a growing influence. Later, it gradually accumulated, that is, renting a street at the railway station to open a restaurant, and using the font name "Zhibin" given to Liu Wen by Mr. Xu Shi according to the "gentle" sentence in The Analects of Confucius as the name of the restaurant, it was named "Zhibin Garden". Liu Wenqin is diligent in research, brave in innovation, combined with the actual situation of the county, boldly improved Beijing's traditional crafts, and made strict demands on various production processes, which not only maintained Beijing's flavor, but also had its new local characteristics of white bones, crisp bones and tender meat, and became famous in a short time, making it a famous brand. Duan Kechang, a county native, met Liu Wen when he was young, and they once shared a duck shed. After Duan worked in the provincial capital, he made friends with old friends and supported Liu Wen to create a famous brand. In order to expand the external influence and improve the popularity, in the annual season of cooked duck fat, the general manager always contacts and invites old friends to go to the provincial capital to show off duck cooking skills at banquets hosted by senior military and political officials such as the provincial government and its four halls. Long Yun, the former chairman of Yunnan provincial government, praised this and became popular. Longyun originally planned to give a large sum of money to each other, and Liu Wen declined. After that, I gave a red banner with a joint inscription and a plaque inscribed "Roast Duck in Kyoto". Liu Wen's roast duck was named "roast duck in Kyoto" from then on, indicating that his skills were obtained in Beijing. Liu Wen treasured the plaque of "Roasted Duck in Kyoto" and kept it in Nishimura's home, which was destroyed after 1950s.
Thanks to Long Yun's commendation and Liu Wen's perfect technical innovation, people from all walks of life presented many satin eulogies. Every festival and birthday party, it is hung up and displayed in the wind, and the scene is very spectacular. Among them, the well-known gift couplet is Gao Yinhuai's "New Yan Dance in Nanpu before Spring, Duck Fat in Xicun after Autumn"; Qian Xiaofang, the police chief of Kaiyuan Railway, said, "Southland is old and cheap, and snacks in West Village are quiet". At that time, people didn't understand what it meant. After Ren Yiliang and Luo Xizhen, director of the Dog Street Railway Police Branch (a native of Tuguan Village), they explained that "Lao Cheap" in Shanglian was the name of the roast duck restaurant in Beijing Mishi Hutong, pointing out that Liu Wen's skills originated from Beijing. The second part praised Liu Wen's roast duck in Nishimura for its delicious taste and comfortable and cheerful mood after eating.
With the growing popularity of Liu Wen's roast duck, people from Kunming, Yiliang and Kaiyuan came to Dog Street by train to eat roast duck, which became a unique scenery of Dog Street. Kunming guests can get back on the same day; Guests from the south must stay overnight in Dog Street. Dog Street was therefore included in the book "Yunnan Travel Guide" published during the Republic of China. ?
Once, a Kuomintang lieutenant colonel and battalion commander, with his wife and entourage, took a sedan chair to Lunan and passed the dog street. Because of his impatience, he was eager to die as soon as he entered the store, and he hated it and slapped him in the mouth. After urging Liu Wen several times, he replied that it was not cooked enough, and the man said, I can't wait. I want to eat it if it is not cooked enough in Toya. And do it yourself with a duck hook to uncover the lid of the furnace, trying to spit first. When Liu Wen saw it, he was so angry that they quarreled. Pulling out a pistol over there is a big show of power, and picking up a kitchen knife here is not showing weakness. After people advised each other on both sides, things calmed down. The battalion commander didn't eat the roast duck and left angrily. Liu Wen here thought that this batch of ducks lost its original flavor because of the flash of fire, but he didn't sell any of them, and all of them lost money to Ma Guangrong's small restaurant across the hall with seasoning. Liu Wen takes care of his quality and reputation to such a stubborn point. At that time, there was a rumor in the society: "Liu Wen's roast duck is delicious, and his face and mouth are ugly." Later generations don't know the truth, and often use this sentence as a metaphor for mocking things, which actually distorts the original intention of this sentence.
Chuangxin
According to Yang Dechun, the son of Yang Guocai, a disciple of Liu Wenzhi who is still alive, Liu Wenzhi's improvement and innovation in duck barbecue technology mainly include the following:
First, Beijing used sorghum stalks as supporting tubes, and Liu Wen used local materials to switch to reeds that grew everywhere along the Nanpan River in the old days. Use four for each duck. There are not only two supporting tubes under two wings; Another one is placed in the chest cavity to empty the cavity to facilitate the penetration of heat; And a fart tube stuffed in the duck's ass. According to the principle of roast duck, it is actually cooked inside and roasted outside. It is confirmed that the furnace temperature reaches 400℃ after the naked flame is burned out. When the striped duck is put into the furnace, with the continuous heating, the water in the duck overflows and accumulates in the body cavity, and it quickly boils. The inner cavity is cooked by boiling water and steaming with hot air that can't be dispersed in the cavity. The skin is baked directly by the furnace temperature. Therefore, the fart tube inserted from the lower anus (there must be a knot in the middle) not only blocks the water in the bore from leaking out and making it stay in the body for a long time, but also makes the duck mature more thoroughly, thus realizing the crisp separation of flesh and blood; In addition, in the process of cooking and baking, it gives off its clear fragrance, so its taste is unique (using fresh reed as an auxiliary material should be inspired by the clear fragrance of wrapping zongzi with reed leaves in Duanyang Festival). In addition, due to the use of the support tube, the cooked duck is beautifully shaped, with its head up and chest out, and it is magnificent. The proverb "Roasted duck breast is carried" is an accurate description of its inherent commodity shape and has long been deeply rooted in people's hearts.
Second, Beijing used maltose water as coating for duck embryo epidermis, and Liu Wen changed to honey water produced in Yunnan. The duck epidermis was easily absorbed after repeated rubbing with honey water (in the old days, it was also used to wipe the back of the hand with honey to make the skin absorb. Liu Wenying was inspired by this method), so he can raise the color to a golden red copper color after roasting. However, maltose is less absorbed than honey, and the residual sugar juice on the epidermis after roasting is easy to zoom black and the finished product is slightly darker. "Yunnan Scenery" commented that "Yiliang roast duck has a little honey", which is the affirmation and high evaluation of the success of this improved technology.
Third, Liu Wen has also made significant improvements in fuel. Wood used for fuel in Beijing is burnt into charcoal and roasted in raw ducks. Liu Wen, in combination with local conditions, switched to pine wool knots as fuel. The burning time of loose wool knot is shorter than that of wood, which can make the furnace temperature rise rapidly and make full use of heat. There is no smoke, but it has a clear fragrance, and the burning heat is uniform and lasting. The used earth furnace has good heat preservation and heat storage, thus ensuring sufficient barbecue temperature. After repeated experiments, the covered barbecue time of each duck is 40 minutes. You can't lift the lid before it's time, and you can't lift the lid and flash fire to release heat halfway. When the time is up, you can uncover the cover and eat it. Yan Zishu, a famous city official, said in the poem "Eating and Roasting Duck": "The cannon is burnt with fire, and the earthen stove is fragrant with smoke. It is a vivid portrayal of this situation that the exhaust gas is transpiration and the hand is fragrant. Liu Wen roasted duck, and when he shook the leg bone, the leg meat fell off the bone. As the saying goes: cold chicken and hot duck. Roasted duck is eaten hot, and the cartilage is chewy. A duck only loses four bones (two legs and two wings), and the rest are chewed up. The more you chew, the more delicious it becomes.
Liu Wen roasted duck, the first choice of ingredients. The traditional duck species in Yiliang is Dianma duck. Ma duck is a kind of lean duck. In the past, most of the folk breeding was hatched by hens, and the number was limited, so the breeding was more exquisite. In the Republic of China 12 (1923), Wang Kaixing, a native of Jiangchuan County (living in Tuqiao Village, Kuangyuan Town), entered Yiliang with the technique of holding ducks in a family-owned grain bucket (stir-fry) invented in his hometown, and gradually popularized this more advanced hatching method, only after that did the breeding number of Yiliang duck increase significantly. According to a preliminary estimate, the number of ducks raised in the county was 1 10,000 before Wang's technique of holding ducks by fire was introduced, but it developed rapidly since then, reaching tens of thousands in the late 1940s. Jiangchuan has a history of incubating ducks with fire for a hundred years, and the scale of raising ducks in this county has been wandering for a hundred years, but it has not grown. Yiliang, which is separated by a mountain, has grown rapidly, which is mainly due to the success of "Kyoto Roast Duck". Ma duck has lived in central Yunnan for a long time, and its basic growth law is: except for the old ducks that lay eggs, the general fattening ducks can't survive the winter. Duck eggs accumulated in winter usually hatch when the weather gets warmer after spring. In the old days, there was no electric heating facility, so the duckling that just hatched couldn't stand the low temperature, so it didn't warm up or hatch. After the first ducklings hatch, it is already the vernal equinox season. After that, they will hatch one after another and stop hatching in summer and May, so as to ensure that the latest batch of ducklings can be fattened and slaughtered in late autumn. Because of this season, the growth period of duck is generally consistent with the time of rice planting in a large area of bazi. Yiliang bazi paddy field has a wide area, and all ducks are stocked in paddy fields. At that time, chemical fertilizers and pesticides were not used, and there were many fishes, shrimps, snails and other living things in the paddy field. Ma duck grew up mainly by eating organisms rich in organic matter, which contained a variety of vitamins and amino acids, so its meat was particularly delicious and it was a real organic food. By the rice harvest season, all the ducks have grown up gradually, and they can eat the grain that has just matured and fallen into the field, so that they can quickly fatten up. The couplet "Milk duck fat after autumn in Nishimura" quoted above is a true portrayal of this fattening method, and it is also the best season to eat roasted Yunnan duck. Yiliang is used to saying that after first frost in late autumn, the bones of ducks will become hard, the meat will become old, and the food will be tasteless, and the roast duck will be eaten for one year. Strong seasonality has become a remarkable feature of Yunnan duck production and barbecue processing in the old days.
The duck source selected by Liu Wen is also fattened according to the above seasonal characteristics. The ducks raised by others can't enter Liu Wen's eyes, that is, they can't meet his requirements for selecting materials. Therefore, Liu Rongkui, his third son, raised ducks and created a set of technical specifications for raising ducks. The ducklings that began to be stocked were picked and transported by large bamboo baskets, and the spacious bamboo baskets were stacked, carrying four baskets, and about 300 ducklings were a group. Since then, ducklings have been trained and educated. Every time you feed, you should teach the password repeatedly. The password of duck training in Yiliang County is unified, and they are all called "Yilai Yilai ...", which has the charm of the old saying and personified human feelings. Therefore, it can be considered that the generation time of this password should be in the Ming Dynasty. At that time, a large number of troops with relatively high cultural level in the south of the Yangtze River had been used and continued to this day when they entered Yiliang. Although the pronunciation of the password is the same, the timbre and intonation of each owner are different, so it is easy for ducks to tell. When two groups of ducks are confused when walking in the field, there is no need to worry about making mistakes. Just give the password from their owners, and the ducks will voluntarily return to the team and separate from each other.
When the duckling grows up, and people can't carry it, they abandon the frame and rush to release it. Liu Wen's ducks also grew up in paddy fields. Liu Wen called the content of this organic food "dark fat", and he thought that the adult duck who reached his standard must be dark fat, educated, spiritual and psychologically stable. However, the ducks who have not been educated and trained will be very alarmed when they encounter a slight trouble, and their mood will fluctuate greatly, which will make the ducks lose their weight and their food taste will inevitably be poor. The ducks raised by Liu Wen's family are different. A large group of ducks are kept in cages, which one is slaughtered and which one is pulled. The companions are not afraid and not surprised, and they have the general demeanor of being calm and calmly dying. In today's words, "animal welfare" is already ahead of Liu Wen's slaughter of ducks. Other ducks can't do this. This is a special feature of his own duck flock.
In addition, the adult ducks near slaughter can't graze in the yellow mud field, because the muddy water pollutes the skin and doesn't sell well. However, the ducks grazing in the black-blue mature mud field, after being slaughtered and depilated, have a bright, white and elastic skin color. In addition, a week before slaughter, the ducks must be herded into a large pond shaded by trees for a few days to prevent them from being exposed to the sun with strong sunlight after autumn, which is also a link to ensure the bright and delicate skin color after slaughter. The psychological quality of adult ducks is stable, they don't beat during slaughter, and there is no blood stasis under the skin, which is also a key point.
Liu Wen slaughtered a duck, and his knife work was also very particular. The neck slaughter was only allowed to be the size of a soybean grain, but because of the accurate selection of the part, he could control the whole body blood and not leave a drop in the body. Therefore, the roasted duck is bright and has no ecchymosis. Moreover, due to the shrinkage of the neck epidermis after barbecue, the butcher's mouth is almost invisible, which makes it look excellent and hygienic, and flies can't find the gap between biting and spawning. The opening of evisceration under the threat is only allowed to be the size of the thumb joint, and the skill can only be seen. These are all difficult for people to do at the same time. Its quality requirements are strict, so it is natural to create a famous brand.
Its founding situation, 1997 10/0/day, the author interviewed Yang Dechun, the third generation of Liu Wen's direct biography, in Dalaise, east of the city, in a leisurely way, which was really true. Later, he wrote an article in the book "Interpretation of Yiliang". According to Yang Dechun (born in 1934), when he was just sensible, the time was about the early 1940s. Once, the provincial capital Long Mansion (located in Zhenzhuang, now Beijing Road) invited Liu Wen to cook roast duck in Shanghai, and he went with his father Yang Guocai and his master Liu Wen. Ducks, pine wool and other items are all taken from the dog street, and they are not used from other places. Building a furnace a few days in advance requires water and mud. His father and other young people are ignorant of the world, so they put all the buckets of clear water that the Long family is soaking in smoky soil into the mud. When the stove is dry to make a fire and try the stove, the baked earthen stove will give off a burst of strange fragrance. Only after several young people realized that they had made a big disaster did they run back to Yiliang in fear. In fact, Longfu did not pursue this matter. When the duck is officially barbecued, the smell of duck and smoke is mixed together, and the more fragrant it is, it makes people salivate. As soon as the stove was opened, the fragrance was scattered with the wind and smelled far and near. Those who don't know the details praise Liu Wen's delicious and mellow roast duck, and Liu Wen's reputation is getting bigger and bigger. The dog street "Roast Duck in Kyoto" founded by Liu Wen was created by his strict and almost harsh quality control, Excellence and meticulousness. As for the inheritance of Liu Wen's skills, there are three formal apprentices: Liu Rongchang, the fourth son of Liu Wen, Yang Guocai and Wang Zhang, fellow villagers. Liu and Wang died young, and there was no biography. Yang Guocai passed on his son, Yang Dechun, born in 1934. When he studied art, Liu Wenshang was still alive, and he was also taught by Liu's father. Yang Dechun is still alive today, and his spirit is healthy, especially when he goes to the stove from time to time to guide the younger generation, and his art is endless.
Liu Wen died in 1945. Before him, he was famous in central Yunnan. He left this famous brand to future generations, so that many Yiliang people today embarked on the road of getting rich, and formed a duck industry, which was also the fastest growing industry in our county in the last century. To this end, the author once wrote a poem to praise him, saying:
Autumn ripens in the west village, and the duck is fat, and Liu Wen's skill is gorgeous.
Fresh fragrance can frustrate the emperor, while crisp and tender can satisfy the Buddha's hunger.
Kunge's nature is dry in the furnace, and the knife in the kitchen is mysterious.
Now the industry is rich in the county, and Zehui's grandchildren are not tired.
Tail sound
Yiliang has a long history of raising ducks. Tang Fanchu's Man Shu (AD 864) has recorded that ducks are cultivated in Yunnan. By the 30th year of Qing Daoguang (1850), Dianma duck had been raised in Yiliang dam area, and the creation of roast duck in Kyoto and the technology of holding duck by fire introduced by Wang Kaixing in Jiangchuan greatly promoted the development of duck industry in our county. 1956 The number of feeding animals has exceeded100000. After three years (1959 ~1961), the duck industry recovered, and by 1965, it had grown to135,000. Ducks can't go to rice fields after ten years of catastrophe, so they only wander around100000 for many years. In the late 1970s, the county organized six people, including Wang Shuizhong (the son of Wang Kaixing), to study in Beijing and introduced electric incubation technology. In 1980s, the duck industry developed healthily, with 198 1 year reaching 258,000. At that time, Yiliang roast duck had spread to the whole province on a large scale, Yunnan Ma duck began to hatch in late spring and early summer, and the seasonal defect of not eating roast duck in winter and spring has seriously restricted the large-scale development of duck breeding industry. 1983 1 1 month, under the guidance of the county science and technology commission, Dog Street Beijing Duck Farm (later renamed Dog Street Beijing Duck Farm) implemented the first batch of "Spark Plan Projects" listed by the provincial and municipal science and technology commissions, and introduced Beijing Duck/kloc-0 from Kunming Agriculture, Industry and Commerce Haigeng Park. It has realized that ducks often bark in spring, summer, autumn and winter, and roast duck smells fragrant all year round. 1987, panjiang headquarters introduced Cambel duck (lean type) from Shangzhi county, Heilongjiang province. There is no ancestral duck breeding factory in our county and even in our province. Therefore, it is necessary to continuously introduce parental breeding to ensure the supply of duck sources. 1992, Lan Xuecheng went to Beijing to attend the exhibition and ordering meeting of the National Poultry Association, and introduced 3,000 parents' generation II ducks and their breeding techniques from Shuangqiao Duck Breeding Farm in Beijing. They were bred in Lanjiaying and sold to all towns in the county and to Shilin, Luliang and other counties. 1995, Yiliang Duck Breeding Factory introduced 3000 Sichuan Tianfu meat ducks. In 2003, Sun Hongguang, Chen Suodu of Dog Street, introduced cherry valley duck SM3 (parent generation) from Huaying Company in Henan. 2000 ducks were bred in large quantities, which were mainly supplied to duck farmers in the county and exported to Honghe Prefecture. In 2004, 3600 ducks were introduced, which greatly promoted the development of duck industry in our county and promoted the large-scale breeding and excellent varieties of Yiliang ducks. In the early 1980s, a senior Sichuan-style chef once opened a restaurant in Lion Building, Yiliang. He was deeply impressed and said, "Sichuan style is invincible in China and in the world, and nothing is untenable. Only in Yiliang, I can't eat it, and I can't open it. The reason is that Yiliang has a roast duck. " It can be slaughtered in 28-40 days after being fed with granular full-price compound feed, which shortens the feeding cycle and improves the economic benefit. Duck breeding industry has developed rapidly in just a few years. 1986 broke through the one million mark, 199 1 year broke through the two million mark, and 1993 reached 4.285 million. By the year 2000, it will reach 8 million. Since 200 1 year, duck infectious diseases have plagued the majority of duck farmers. As a special item, the county science and technology bureau relied on relevant experts from provinces and cities to tackle key problems, which reduced the mortality rate from 27% to 7%, ensuring the healthy development of duck industry in our county. In 2003, it reached10180,000. In the spring of 2004, when a highly pathogenic avian influenza epidemic occurred in China, Shilin in the east of Yiliang County, Songming in the north, Chenggong and Guandu in the west were all infected, but the duck industry in Yiliang County was safe and sound, which was really a miracle. It shows that the duck industry in Yiliang County is mature and the scientific and technological level is successful. On the improvement of barbecue technology, firstly, the earthen stewing stove that is not suitable for moving is made into an iron oven with a patented brand, which makes Yiliang roast duck stride towards all parts of the province; Second, where the raw materials of loose wool knot are not available, chestnut charcoal is used as fuel. The original white-striped duck needs to blow air between the epidermis and subcutaneous fat to make it swell. The purpose is to make the white-striped duck plump and wrinkle-free before entering the furnace, and it is also convenient to show that it is air-dried, and the skin and fat are separated after barbecue, and the skin is crispy. Because the butcher's mouth leaks too much and it is difficult to inflate, Lan Xuecheng improved it to air-dry it with a blower for 24 hours to ensure that the roast duck skin is crisp and the meat is fresh. He also introduced the sliced duck technology of Shanghai Jinjiang Group, with 25 pieces of duck skin each, and made exquisite sweet noodle sauce to replace the traditional pepper and salt seasoning, so as to improve it. In addition, soft packaging products of roast duck, traditional dried salted duck, rose duck, and "fragrant roast duck" originally created by "Water Laughing Fish" company (that is, salted white duck with seasoning first and then barbecued, and no seasoning is used when eating) came out one after another, which really made Yiliang roast duck fly all over the sky.
However, with the excessive use of chemical fertilizers and pesticides, the ecological environment is deteriorating day by day, and the drug residues in Yiliang roast duck and the lack of fat and fat in Beijing duck are increasingly exposed. The duck industry in Yiliang is facing increasingly serious market challenges. Since 2002, the county science and technology bureau has started the project of raising green ecological ducks, which has achieved initial results. Also since 2002, the traditional Yunnan duck breeding and barbecue have been restored in large quantities in Dog Street and Nanyang Town, which has become a new fashion for duck farming and catering industry in our county. In order to carry forward the authentic roast duck tradition, Goujie Town has made feasible development plans, introduced policies and measures, carried forward the famous brand of "Roasted Duck in Kyoto", and increased the research and excavation of duck culture to increase its cultural content. On September 6th, 2003, Goujie Town organized and implemented the plan to revitalize the roast duck in Goujie, and invited many people to hold the "Dog Street Traditional Roast Duck Promotion Conference". It is planned to further standardize the barbecue technology, award the license to the designated reception, take the road of brand development, and make the roast duck industry in Goujie bigger and stronger. In 2003, the county science and technology bureau reported the pollution-free duck project in Yiliang as the "Spark Plan" project of the provincial science and technology department, and achieved phased results in the implementation of the project in Beigu Town. In May 2004, it was certified as "pollution-free" agricultural products by the provincial agriculture department. In 2004, it is planned to implement the "Rice and Duck Breeding" project in Goujie, reducing the application amount of chemical fertilizer by more than half (mainly used in the early stage of rice growth), applying safe pesticides appropriately, and producing high-quality rice and Yunnan duck at low cost. In 2004, it will be a year in which the duck breeding industry in Dog Street and the traditional Yunnan duck have achieved great development and made a good reputation. "Roast Duck in Kyoto" started from Dog Street and will be revitalized in Dog Street.