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Climate conditions and methods for prune planting

Prunes can be made into a variety of delicious foods, and they are also a kind of fruit or dried fruit snack food that is loved and familiar to the public. So do you know what the climate conditions are for growing prunes? The following is my Let’s take a look at the climatic conditions for prune cultivation carefully compiled for you.

Table of contents

Climatic conditions for growing prunes

Methods for growing prunes

Tips for growing prunes Climate for growing prunes Conditions

Climate conditions The average annual temperature is above 9℃. In southern Xinjiang, peach is used as rootstock, and the extreme minimum temperature is not lower than -22°C; apricot and this rootstock are used as rootstock, and the annual minimum temperature is not lower than -28°C, and the absolute maximum temperature is 42-C; the frost-free period is more than 180 days.

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After the prune trees are planted, the trays can be covered with film or grass to protect moisture and suppress alkali. Can be intercropped with dwarf crops. Loosen the soil and weed in time after irrigation during the growing season.

Apply basal fertilizer after harvesting the fruits, and apply 10kg/plant of basal fertilizer to young trees. 50Ks/plant during fruiting period. Basal fertilizer is generally applied in a ditch with a depth of 40cm and a width of 30cm. Open a circular fertilizing ditch along the outer projection of the tree crown, apply fertilizer evenly into the ditch, and fill it in time. Or dig fertilizing ditches on both sides of the outer canopy (east, west or north and south), and rotate fertilizer from east to west, south and north every other year.

Top dressing can be done twice a year, before flowering (mid-to-late March) and at the beginning of fruit enlargement and flower bud differentiation (mid-June). For saplings, apply 100-200g per plant each time, and during the fruiting period, apply 400g per plant. The ratio of chemical fertilizer N:P:K is 2:1:2. Top dressing can be done by trench application. Dig shallow top dressing trenches 15em deep and 30em wide in different directions from east to west, north and south under the projection of the tree crown. After fertilization, backfill with soil in time.

Generally, it should be done before germination (mid-to-late March), fruit development (early May), flower bud differentiation period (mid-June), hard core stage before fruit maturity (mid-July), and fruit harvesting. Irrigate after harvest (mid-August) and before the soil freezes (early November). The irrigation quota is 400-600m3/667m2. When building a garden on the edge of the desert outside the agricultural area, it is recommended to use water-saving irrigation methods such as drip irrigation or micro-sprinkler irrigation if possible. Depending on the soil condition and evaporation, the irrigation cycle is 4-7 days, and the amount of water per irrigation should penetrate 50-60em of the soil root system. The main distribution layer is suitable.

To prevent late frost damage, when the temperature drops below 3℃ during the flowering period, ignite piles of grass or aerosols, and no less than 5 piles/667m2 should be evenly distributed in the garden. Spray 500 times acetic acid aqueous solution before flowering to delay the flowering period and resist the damage of late frost and low temperature.

To increase the fruit setting rate, bees can be released into the orchard to increase yield. Generally, 1 bee box/667m is placed.

When pruning prune trees, they have strong germination and branching ability, weak stemness, and dense branches. Pay attention to opening the inner chamber, opening the angle for ventilation and light transmission, retracting or thinning out weak fruit branches, and renewing and rejuvenating in time. Pruning is divided into two periods: winter pruning and summer pruning, with winter pruning being the main period. Usually in early February. Summer pruning is carried out from May to July. Winter pruning mainly involves opening the inner chamber, adjusting the reasonable spacing between branch groups, thinning out back branches, dry branches, diseased branches, and overly dense branches, short-cutting strong branches, retracting weak perennial fruit-bearing branch groups, throwing away mediocre branches, and top competition. Remove strong branches and leave weak branches, and shorten the extended branches appropriately. Summer pruning mainly uses the methods of stretching and stretching the main branches, topping, twisting, holding branches, thinning out the long branches and removing sprouts.

<<< Tips for growing prunes

1. Site conditions for suitable cultivation areas

1.1 Climatic conditions The average annual temperature is above 9℃. In southern Xinjiang, peach is used as rootstock, and the extreme minimum temperature is not lower than -22°C; apricot and this rootstock are used as rootstock, and the annual minimum temperature is not lower than -28°C, and the absolute maximum temperature is 42-C; the frost-free period is more than 180 days.

1.2 Selection of afforestation land The soil layer should be deep, the groundwater level is below lm, and the soil texture should be medium loam, light loam, sandy loam and sandy soil. The soil pH value is 7-8.5, and the total salt content in the root layer (depth 10-60-m) is 0.35%.

2 Varieties

2.1 Varieties to choose There are many varieties of prunes. Currently, the main varieties grown in southern Xinjiang should be Richard Early, French Prunes, Goddess, Early Moonlight, Big Rose, etc.

2.2 Variety Configuration Prunes are self-pollinating. It has a high fruit setting rate and strong resistance to low temperature, late frost and sand dust during the flowering period. A single variety can be used to build a garden. Adopt a multi-variety configuration, cross-pollination can increase yields, and use varieties with different flowering periods. It can improve the ability to withstand the risk of late spring cold and sand dust hazards during the flowering period.

3. Planting

3.1 Planting density adopts garden-style planting, and the spacing between rows is generally 3x4m, 3x5m or 4x6m. The planting density is 56 plants/667m or 28 plants/667m. The best direction to travel is north-south.

3.2 Planting time: Spring planting is carried out, usually in mid-to-late March, and afforestation can be done in late March because the soil in low tide saline-alkali soil warms up slowly.

3.3 The planting method adopts furrow planting and furrow irrigation. The upper mouth of the furrow is lm wide and the bottom width is 0.8m. Depth 0.3m. Dig a planting hole in the trench with a hole diameter of 0.8m and a depth of 0.6m. Apply 10-30kg of decomposed farmyard manure to each hole or mix in green manure, rice husk and licorice residue when burying the soil. The method of “three burials, two steps and one lifting of seedlings” is adopted for planting. Water promptly after planting. After 1 week, the tree hole is soiled and the seedlings are straightened.

4. Field management

4.1 After the prune trees are planted, the trays can be covered with film or grass to protect moisture and suppress alkali. During the sapling stage, short intercrops can be used between the rows. Pole crops. Loosen the soil and weed in time after irrigation during the growing season.

4.2 Apply basal fertilizer after harvesting the fruits, and apply 10kg/plant of basal fertilizer to young trees. 50Ks/plant during fruiting period. Basal fertilizer is generally applied in a ditch with a depth of 40cm and a width of 30cm. Open a circular fertilizing ditch along the outer projection of the tree crown, apply fertilizer evenly into the ditch, and fill it in time. Or dig fertilizing ditches on both sides of the outer canopy (east, west or north and south), and apply fertilizer alternately from east to west and south to north.

4.3 Topdressing can be done twice a year, before flowering (mid-to-late March) and at the beginning of fruit enlargement and flower bud differentiation (mid-June). For saplings, apply 100-200g per plant each time, and during the fruiting period, apply 400g per plant. The ratio of chemical fertilizer N:P:K is 2:1:2.

Top dressing can be applied in trenches. Dig shallow trenches 15em deep and 30em wide in different directions from east to west, north and south under the projection of the tree crown. After fertilization, backfill with soil in time.

4.4 Generally, it should be before germination (mid-to-late March), fruit development (early May), flower bud differentiation initial period (mid-June), fruit hard core stage before maturity (mid-July), fruit Irrigate after harvest (mid-August) and before soil freezes (early November). The irrigation quota is 400-600m3/667m2. When building a garden on the edge of the desert outside the agricultural area, it is recommended to use water-saving irrigation methods such as drip irrigation or micro-sprinkler irrigation if possible. Depending on the soil condition and evaporation, the irrigation cycle is 4-7 days, and the amount of water per irrigation should penetrate 50-60em of the soil root system. The main distribution layer is suitable.

5. Climatic conditions for grafted prune planting

5.1 The peach rootstock has good joint healing, strong growth potential and strong stress resistance, and the sour plum, elm leaf plum and hairy cherry rootstock joints have healed Good, with small feet and dwarfing effects. The apricot tree rootstock has strong growth potential and an abscission layer at the interface. It is easy to be broken by wind when it bears fruit after 4-5 years. Further exploration is needed.

5.2 Select mother trees with pure varieties, strong growth, no pests and diseases, high quality and high yield for cutting scions. The scions for bud grafting should be cut from strong branches of the current year that are semi-lignified, lignified, and full of buds. The scions for branch grafting should be cut from strong and substantial one-year-old branches.

5.3 Immediately after cutting the budding scion, cut off the leaves and leave about 1cm of petioles.

Can be harvested and used at any time; stored in an ice cellar for use within 4 days; if dug a 50cm deep pit in a cool place, put the scions in, cover with wet river sand, the storage period is 2 days. Branch-grafted scions are collected from the branches before they enter the dormant period to germination, and are stored in an ice cellar after wax sealing, keeping the temperature at about 0°C.

5.4 The seedling rootstock should be irrigated with water once 2-5 days before budding. Rootstock bark is easy to peel off, heals well, and has a high survival rate. In summer, budding occurs in early to mid-June. Autumn budding occurs from early August to early September. Start irrigating 6-10 days after bud grafting and check for survival. If the petioles of the grafted buds fall off when touched lightly, it is considered viable. Untie in time. For seedlings that are budded in summer, the anvil should be cut 5-Tom above the bud 7 days after budding, leaving 3-4 leaves, and the anvil buds should be wiped off every 3 days. When the grafted buds grow to 10cm, cut the anvil 0.5cm above the grafted buds. Autumn budded seedlings.

The anvil should be cut 1 cm above the bud site before germination in mid-to-late March of the following year, and the anvil buds should be wiped out every 3-4 days.

6. Flower and fruit management

6.1 To prevent late frost damage during the flowering period, when the temperature drops below 3℃, ignite piles of grass or aerosols, and no less than 5 piles/667m2 should be evenly distributed in the garden. Spray 500 times acetic acid aqueous solution before flowering to delay the flowering period and resist the damage of late frost and low temperature.

6.2 To increase the fruit setting rate, bees can be released in the orchard to increase the yield. Generally, 1 bee box/667m is placed.

6.3 Pruning prune trees have strong germination and branching ability, weak stemness, and dense branches. Pay attention to opening the inner chamber, opening the angle for ventilation and light transmission, retracting or thinning out weak fruit branches, and renewing and rejuvenating in time. . Pruning is divided into two periods: winter pruning and summer pruning, with winter pruning being the main period. Usually in early February. Summer pruning is carried out from May to July. Winter pruning mainly involves opening the inner chamber, adjusting the reasonable spacing between branch groups, thinning out back branches, dry branches, diseased branches, and overly dense branches, short-cutting strong branches, retracting weak perennial fruit-bearing branch groups, throwing away mediocre branches, and top competition. Remove strong branches and leave weak branches, and shorten the extended branches appropriately. Summer pruning mainly uses the methods of stretching and stretching the main branches, topping, twisting, holding branches, thinning out the long branches and removing sprouts.

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