Northeast food culture circle is a sub-cultural location type with strong style specificity in the Chinese food culture circle gradually formed in the long historical process. As an objective location type of food culture in history, the northeast food culture circle includes Liaoning, Jilin and Heilongjiang provinces and eastern Inner Mongolia. Generally speaking, a certain style or type of food culture has corresponding cultural native regional attributes. The local or regional dependence of this culture is deeply rooted in the soil of natural ecology and cultural ecosystem. As a traditional, material and psychological spiritual diet cultural element, they have obvious temporal and spatial attributes. This super-temporal attribute of food culture is often out of sync with the changes of political factors such as easier administrative divisions. As an important part of regional food culture, food elements not only clearly reflect the specific content of food production and food life in this area in space, but also record the changes of people's food behavior and food culture style in time. Therefore, it is undoubtedly a meaningful work to examine the food culture in Northeast China from the perspective of historical and cultural evolution and development. A profound understanding of the food culture in Northeast China not only needs this historical observation, but also its significance can be extended to many other cultural fields.
Ecological environment and cultural and historical characteristics of the catering cultural circle in Northeast China;
The northeast of China is located between 42 and 53 34' north latitude, which is the coldest natural area. Under the strong Mongolian high pressure, it is colder than any other area on the map, which is undoubtedly the basic feature of the natural ecology in Northeast China, thus becoming the primary environmental factor in the cultural history of this area. Rivers, lakes and swamps in Northeast China are rich in surface water resources, which not only ensures the lush vegetation, but also creates favorable conditions for the growth and variety of land animals and plants. It has also become the most superior area with vast forests and grasslands in the history of China, and the most ideal natural comprehensive economic zone for hunting, animal husbandry, fishing and planting.
Food raw materials and natural resources should be the decisive environmental factors of food culture, especially the food culture that human beings rely more on nature itself. Today, after a long ecological change, there are still170,000 hectares of natural forests in the widely covered forests in Northeast China, accounting for 60% of the total forest resources in China. Many species, genera and a large number of animals live here, which provide people here with delicious food treasures and rich plants mountain products. The rich waters provide mankind with a wide variety of fish. The vast plain grassland is a unique paradise for animal husbandry. The vast territory and sparse population should be another very important cultural feature of the Northeast food culture circle. Northeast China is vast and sparsely populated, and the living space is vast, which determines the economic life of the simple "relying on the sky to eat" model. The pressure of population on nature seems weak, the ecological environment is almost in the primary stage, and the consumption of thin population is only a very small part of countless natural products such as birds, animals, fish, fruits and vegetables. This makes the survival of Northeast China in a basically balanced state for a long time. Until the beginning of this century, this gourmet paradise in Northeast China has not been seriously damaged by the pressure of food. There is a reasonable and harmonious relationship between abundant food resources and relatively scarce population. In the process of natural food chain circulation, there is no subversion and collapse of the hierarchical structure of each trophic level caused by human intervention in many parts of mainland China.
From the end of 19 to the 1940s, contrary to the trend of "declining rivers" in mainland China, the cultural activity in Northeast China increased in a small scale. A large number of Europeans, Russians and later Soviets, French, Greeks, Germans, Poles, Yugoslavs, Hungarians, Jews, Japanese, Koreans and other foreigners poured into the northeast of China. The influence of their respective national dietary customs is still at work. Many foreigners not only use their own unique nationality, skin color, clothing, language, habits, occupation and residence, but also use their own diet and eating habits to make modern Northeast China, especially large and small cities, full of western cultural colors and exotic tunes. /kloc-at the end of 0/9, due to the complete break of the "Kanto" ban policy, mainlanders also flocked to the northeast to "enter Kanto". During this period, unprecedented economic development and food culture appeared "inside the customs"-"outside the customs"; China-a new situation of friendly exchanges with foreign countries. In the past, the population was sparse and the natural economic model changed. However, the historical characteristics of Wu Feng were not completely reversed during this period. Beer, bread, sausage, western food and related culture, as an exotic culture, have taken root and sprouted in this black land moistened by snow and water.
Historical characteristics of people s life in the northeast food culture circle;
Mainly meat, it should be said that it has been one of the basic characteristics of Northeast people's diet life for thousands of years or even longer. This feature lasted at least until the end of 19. The indigenous people here, such as Manchu, Mongolian, Dahan, Oroqen, Ewenki, Xibe, Hezhe, Li Ji and Kuyi, are basically the same. Only Koreans, some Manchu people in Shengjing, and Han people who went abroad one after another are exceptions (this is mainly after the middle of17th century). Their meat mainly comes from sheep, cattle, horses, camels and other large animals, as well as hunting animals and fish, of course, including pigs, geese, ducks, chickens and so on. , but mainly from animal husbandry, hunting and fishing. This kind of life, even to the present pasture and Heilongjiang and Wusuli rivers, the food structure of those ethnic minorities is basically the same.
As a non-staple food, grain is characterized by the coexistence of meat. Grain has been planted in the northeast of China for a long time. It is worth noting that there are almost all kinds of grain in the mainland, especially in the Yellow River basin, and the veritable "whole grains" are complete. Significantly, whole grains are intact, only as non-staple food, as non-staple food other than meat staple food with multiple varieties and structures. Because it makes people's food content richer and the nutritional structure more reasonable.
The characteristics of great analogy and many bean products are another food culture characteristic that can not be ignored in the location of Northeast culture. Wang Dadou, a kind of glutinous rice, is an invention of northerners and a traditional food raw material of northerners.
Rich winter storage is a clever creation of people's diet culture in Northeast China. Due to the short frost-free period, people only eat local dishes for about 6 months (the span between north and south is large, so there is a big difference). In order to meet the demand for vegetables in the long winter, people in Northeast China, especially the ordinary people in the lower classes, have to dry a large number of dried vegetables (the variety can be as many as 10) in summer. In autumn, a large number of overwintering vegetables such as cabbage, radish and potato should be stored in the kiln. At the same time, a large number of pickled vegetables and various kinds of pickled vegetables should be pickled. This is a historical tradition and a custom that has been preserved in the vast rural areas to this day.
Frozen food is one of the typical dietary customs in Northeast China. The long and cold winter brings many difficulties to people's diet life, but it also determines the unique cultural style. The severe winter is a big cold storage endowed by nature. It can store all kinds of foods and raw materials indefinitely and without cost, and has the advantages of sterilization, antisepsis and freshness preservation, and unique flavor. Not afraid of ice and snow, I like ice and snow. Not only do you like to eat frozen food to cool down and prevent heatstroke in summer, but you also like to eat frozen food to refresh yourself in winter. This is indeed a unique taste that the northeast people envy and are afraid to ask.
Since 1980s, a series of new policies of the state have had a great positive impact on social economy and national diet. Farmers' enthusiasm for production and living standards are obviously higher than before. However, their diet life has not deviated from the long-standing pattern. The staple food is still corn, sorghum, millet, wheat, rice and millet. The proportion of wheat and rice "flour rice" has increased significantly. However, only the reappearance of the natural and reasonable food structure in history-of course, the reappearance of a higher historical and cultural level, can the regional revolution of Northeast people's diet be completed. To this end, the northeast people may have to work hard for at least half a century.
Strong national dietary customs and cultural characteristics;
The Chinese nation is a multi-ethnic historical aggregate and a multi-cultural isomorphism. Northeast China is one of the important cultural areas where many ethnic groups live together in history. Colorful customs and habits are another important feature of this region's rich connotation and colorful food culture, so it is also one of the cultural regions that can best reflect the convergence of the Chinese nation and the same sex. The unique natural and geographical conditions in Northeast China have generously provided all kinds of rich raw materials for people who have lived in this land for generations. Hard-working and brave people give full play to their intelligence in the process of asking for from nature. They not only use the material nutrients provided by nature to maintain their bodies, but also develop their minds while developing and utilizing these substances.
Strong national dietary customs and cultural characteristics can be understood from the following aspects:
1. Rich and reasonable food raw materials and scientific food structure. Before that, the population had no pressure on the land and ecological environment, and people had great choice ability and space, thus ensuring the rationality and scientificity of residents' food structure for a long historical period.
2. Chinese food culture. The position of the northeast food culture in the Chinese nation's overall food culture is shown in the following aspects: First, its ethnic diversity can be regarded as the abbreviation of the nationality of the Chinese nation's food culture to some extent, just like the representative division of southwest and northwest. Secondly, the ancestors of Northeast China, such as Xianbei, Jurchen, Mongolia and Manchu, successively entered the Central Plains or became kings in the whole country, which had a great, even decisive and permanent influence on the politics, ideology, economy, culture and even the whole history of the Chinese nation. These ethnic groups that have risen in the northeast have injected incomparable vitality and profound vitality into the mother of Chinese culture again and again. As an important part of national culture, food culture has been naturally integrated into the genes of Baishan Blackwater Frozen Soil to a great extent. Third, the import of food raw materials to other regions has long affected people's diet structure, diet style and traditional customs in various regions.
3. Open and inclusive. Although the northeast region is far from the frontier fortress of the national political center in history, from the perspective of cultural development, it has no borders and is not congested. Openness, tolerance and eclecticism are the historical characteristics of northeast regional culture. In the whole civilization era, Heilongjiang area is still an open cultural area. No matter who owns the deer of the Central Plains regime, no matter whether the mainland is unified or independent. Northeast China has always maintained close and frequent economic, cultural and political ties with the mainland, and is deeply influenced by the culture of the Central Plains. Of course, it is also her influence on the Central Plains and its surrounding areas. However, this kind of openness was particularly active and intense from the19th century to the early 20th century until the middle of the 20th century. Many cities in the northeast of China are inhabited by a large number of European expatriates. Harbin was nicknamed "Paris of the East" and "Moscow of the East" at the beginning of this century. Harbin can eat almost all kinds of ethnic flavors in Europe, of course, Russian cuisine is the most influential one. An obvious historical feature of the catering culture in Northeast China is openness, tolerance and digestion. She has widely absorbed the cultural nutrition of many ethnic groups in all parts of the motherland, and also integrated into foreign cultures, thus making herself more colorful and full of vitality.
Northeast specialty:
Harbin: Demolis Stewed Live Fish There is a small village called Demolis near the roadside in the suburbs of Harbin. The villagers opened a snack bar on the roadside to entertain passers-by who stopped to eat. Stewed tofu, vermicelli and carp in Wusuli River is a warm old practice of fellow villagers. Later, the practice of cooking spread like wildfire and spread all over the streets of the city. Harbin people say: if foreign friends don't like western food and northeast food, let's come to Molly to stew fish.
Qiqihar: Kill pig dishes in the New Year. A family in the village killed a pig. The lower back and legs are good things. How to eat the remaining fat in the water? There is a pig-killing dish: blood sausage made of pickled sauerkraut, and raw materials of fat meat are all together. If you want to eat big fat meat, cut it into pieces, fry it in a pot, and then stew it with sauerkraut and blood sausage. In the countryside, the fire in the stove chamber reflects the aunt's face, and the stew with ginger and garlic in the pot is cooked glug. When this pig-killing dish reached the city, the restaurants in the city added an extra process and used enough materials.
Jiamusi: Braised vermicelli with sauerkraut and pork. Northeasters like to eat stews, and there are many famous dishes to eat. What kind of stewed potatoes with goose, diced chicken with mushrooms and stewed vermicelli with pork and sauerkraut are all local dishes to eat in cold weather. The pickled cabbage pickled by northeast Chinese cabbage is cut into matchstick-thick silk, which helps the white leaves to be green and not rotten for a long time. The local potato flour is easy to cook and boil. Just hang upside down with chopsticks when Huang Liang is in the pot. With the old soup of pork bones cooked when killing pigs, and the pork sauerkraut noodles stewed with sauteed pork belly, the delicious aroma surrounds the roof!
Yanji: You can't go to Yanbian Korean Autonomous Prefecture without eating dog meat. Like other places in China, hot pot and Korean dog meat hot pot are also popular. Special pot bottom, stewed dog meat and dog ribs. Only fresh is spicy. It may be that Yanji is too cold, so pepper should be added to the dog meat. Eat it all year round, and it is best to cure a cold in summer!
Jilin: Dog soup is in the Korean hotel in Jilin. All dog broth is stewed with fresh meat of the day, and there is no stock. The dog broth made in this way is called clear soup. There are many ways to eat dog meat, such as stewed tofu with dog meat, dried cabbage with dog meat and hot pot with dog meat. But no matter what dog meat you eat, a bowl of dog broth is indispensable. When you look back at this bowl of soup, you feel a smell in your nose, and this dog meat will taste more and more fragrant.
Changchun: Sanxian China has always had the habit of tasting Sanxian, Sanxian Tree and Sanxian Water on a long summer day. Speaking of the three delicacies here, it refers to the seasonal fresh vegetables: amaranth, yuanmai and broad beans (or garlic seedlings), which are fried together and tender. When we arrived in Changchun, Sanxian cuisine became a famous local dish. Now there are also three kinds of potatoes, eggplant and peppers fried together. This is an authentic northeast dish.
Shenyang: Sichuan hot pot is as popular on the streets of Shenyang as in other cities. The taste of Sichuan hot pot is strong and spicy, which is similar to that of Northeast cuisine and suits the taste of Shenyang people. Speaking of spicy food, Northeasters are also outstanding. In fact, the bosses who really went to Shenyang Sichuan Hot Pot Restaurant felt that they had found the right place.
The enthusiasm of Shenyang people makes them regard this place as their second hometown.
Dalian: Salted fish cakes have flowed from local rural areas into cities, and now they can be eaten in small restaurants and big hotels. Fish is a sea fish in autumn. There are big fish, yellow flowers and palms. They are pickled with ginger and shallots and browned in oil. This cake is made of aged corn flour mixed with soybean flour and white flour. Boil the cauldron with water, and then stick the cake around it. Want to eat? Wait until you are familiar with it!
Among the "eight major" cuisines, there are many northeast cuisines. But this has not hindered its business. Even in Guangzhou, far away from its birthplace, Northeast cuisine can be as warm and heroic as kapok. In Guangzhou, Shenzhen and other cities, Northeast cuisine is definitely a popular cuisine. Spicy is a hard constraint. Most Cantonese people don't eat spicy food, and northeast food doesn't use spicy food very much. In the long run, many Cantonese people have joined the crowd who eat pork stewed vermicelli, chicken stewed mushrooms and northeast elbow. A. On the basis of Manchu cuisine, Northeast cuisine has absorbed the advantages of local cuisine, especially Shandong cuisine and Beijing cuisine, and has been continuously formed and developed. Because it is easy to give people the impression of roughness and lack of delicacy, this kind of food is rarely cooked in high-end hotels and restaurants, but it has become a "citizen's dish" and "people's dish". If the family pays for it, Northeast cuisine is really a good and affordable choice. B. Northeast cuisine is mainly stewed, sauced and roasted, with rough color and rich flavor. Thick-line northeast dishes, not rigidly attached to details, are quite like thick-line northeast people, which makes people's appetite open. Sauced vegetables such as sauce spine, sauce pork feet, sauce chicken feet, chicken neck, chicken liver, etc., if accompanied by mellow sorghum shochu, will be somewhat heroic and full of flavor beyond the Great Wall. C. Northeast cuisine is rich in flavor, salty with sweetness, crisp with crispness, rich in flavor, shiny and exquisite in shape. Cooking methods are good at roasting, frying, roasting, steaming, stewing and pot. White meat and blood sausage, roasted bear's paw, goldfish lying in tents, honey cherry blossoms and assorted hot pot are unique. Sauce skeleton, Flammulina velutipes stewed chicken, stewed pork vermicelli, braised pork, harvested vegetables, the aroma is overflowing, which makes people admire.