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Su Dongpo's Food: Bringing you to the Song Dynasty on the tip of your tongue

Su Dongpo

was born in Sichuan, the land of heaven

There is no doubt

that anyone born in this gourmet capital

has a heart of love for food

a voracious stomach and a mouth of good food

And Meishan, where he grew up

is the center of the origin of Sichuan cuisine.

Everyone knows Dongpo Pork, everyone knows that the meat is delicious. Although this poem was written by Su Dongpo in Huangzhou, the story of Dongpo meat has to start in Xuzhou.

The two years that Su Dongpo was in Xuzhou were an eventful time in the history of Xuzhou. In the fall of 1077, the Yellow River broke and the water was trapped in Xuzhou. Instead of fleeing like the common people, Su Shi took the lead and built a dike to protect the city with all the people. After more than seventy days and nights of hard fighting, finally saved the city of Xuzhou.

The city saved, the people are happy, they thank the leadership, and the people of Xuzhou with the breath, **** survival of the good governor, have to kill the pig slaughter goat, carry wine and food on the House of condolences. Su shi can not refuse, after receiving personally instructed family members made of braised meat, and back to the people to participate in the flood. After the people eat, they all feel that this meat is fat and not greasy, crispy flavor, unanimously called him "back to the meat". Since then, "back to the meat" in Xuzhou around the circulation, and into the Xuzhou traditional dishes.

Yuanfeng three years on February 1, Su Shi for the famous "Wutai Poetry Case" was relegated to Huangzhou as a deputy regimental trainer. He opened his own land and called this place "Dongpo Jushi". This is where the name "Su Dongpo" came from. During his time in Huangzhou, because of poverty, he cooked braised pork and wrote about his experience in "Poetry of Eating Pork".

But the braised pork that Su Shi cooked in Xuzhou and Huangzhou only had a local impact, not much fame in the country. The only braised meat that really became famous was the "Dongpo Pork" that Su Shi cooked in Hangzhou for the second time, much later.

When Su Shi was the governor of Hangzhou, he was honored for dredging the West Lake. When he was a governor of Hangzhou, he dredged the West Lake, and people brought wine and meat to pay tribute to him, and Su Shi ordered the pork and wine to be burnt for the workers to eat, which was misheard by his family as yellow wine and pork burnt together, but the people ate it instead, thinking it was even more crispy and flavorsome.

At that time, Hangzhou, there is a big restaurant owner, heard that people are praised "Dongpo meat" is delicious, but also in accordance with Su Dongpo's method of firing, written on the sign "Dongpo meat" for sale. This new dish should be marketed, the restaurant's business soon flourished, the door is full of people. For a time, Hangzhou, regardless of the size of the restaurant have "Dongpo meat". Later, Hangzhou chefs agreed, the "Dongpo meat" as Hangzhou's first famous dish, which has been passed down to this day.

Nowadays, whether it is the home of ordinary people, or the table of high-end restaurants, Dongpo meat is known and praised. Although the practice is different from place to place, there are sweet, there are also slightly spicy, but they are all from childhood to eat the hometown flavor and memory. And this is all thanks to Su Dongpo the foodie.

The Wutai Poetry Case, can be said to be the biggest turning point in Su Shi's life, this huge blow to make him become disheartened. In particular, some of his former friends distanced themselves from him like the plague.

Historically, Huangzhou was the city of Huanggang, which still covers the western part of the Dabie Mountains. Today, this small city on the banks of the Yangtze River is only an hour's drive from Wuhan, and as far as the eye can see there is a lot of prosperity, whereas in the 11th century Huangzhou was a little-known place, with no long history, and was a place of depression.

Although Huangzhou is a piece of depression is not good, but at least it covers the Dabie Mountains, the mountains of rare birds and animals but often frequented. Other strange things can not eat, the pheasant is easy to catch. The pheasant, also known as the mountain chicken, in the Yuan and Ming years ago, the mountain chicken is still high on the tribute thing. After the snow in winter, the sky cleared, but also into the mountains to hunt the good season of the pheasant, Su Dongpo certainly will not let go of this game.

The mountain chicken, only one hundred yuan a pair of children, the price of extreme pro-people, although Mr. Dong Po in Huangzhou when the hand is tight, every day the whole family spends a fixed amount of one hundred and fifty wen, can see a hunter shoulder hunting fork picking the chicken to sell, or can not help but count out one hundred wen to buy joyfully brought home. The first thing you need to do is to get your hands on some of the best products and services in the world, and then you'll be able to get your hands on some of the best products and services in the world.

Or with asparagus slices, the pot of soup, don't forget to put some snow bottom celery, the unique mellow mountain treasures, do not have to put any seasoning is fresh and delicious. The family snowy winter nights around the stove night conversation, from time to time to drink a mouthful of hot pheasant soup, can really be a great joy of life.

Dongpo pheasant soup has been spread throughout the southeast region of Hubei, and is still a good traditional soup. In addition to this irreplaceable dish, Su Dongpo also invented another way to eat, is "Dongpo spring chicken chopped". Although the days of Huangzhou in the bitter, but I guess a thousand years ago that Su Dongpo, because of food, and become lively.

In the more than four years of being relegated to Huangzhou, Su Dongpo traveled all over the famous mountains and rivers of Huanggang, and saw the magnificent scenery of East Hubei, and wrote 753 works. At this time Su Dongpo, although in the trough of life, but there has been an open-minded, transcendent optimism.

Su Dongpo life favorite fish, but often their own hands to cook, so he was y to make a variety of fish dishes of the wonderful method. In his poem "Fish Barbarians", he described his method of making carp: " Breaking water to get pomfrets, easy as picking up the road. The broken kettle is not salted, and the snowy scales brush the green vegetables. "He wrote a poem about bream in Huangzhou: " The dawn sun shines on the river, and the swimming fish look like jade bottles. The first time I saw this, I was in the middle of a long journey, and it was a long time coming. I'm not sure if you're going to be able to get a good deal on a new product or not. I'm not sure how much I'm going to be able to do this, but I'm going to be able to do it," he said. "

Minjiang River around Leshan, Sichuan, produces a kind of blackhead fish. Su Dongpo and his brother Su Zhe had used sesame oil, bean curd, green onion, ginger, garlic and other seasonings to fry, cook, juice method of production of "Dongpo cuttlefish", the flavor " aroma wonderful match ". Su Dongpo had also written in the New interest in the township of Ren Shizhong", "Wonderful that you will forget your hometown, rice ripe fish fat letter Qingmei.

There is also a short story about Dongpo fish. It is said that Su Shi went to the temple to visit his good friend monk Fo Yin, a door to smell a fish smell, thinking that this time there is a mouthful of good fortune. However, monk Fo Yin wanted to tease Su Shi, so he put a plate of fish into the exhausted next to him in advance.

Su Shi on the monk's small mind know, but he also deliberately not show. Su Shi said to the monk Fo Yin, "I have a line of the first line here, can you match the second line?" Saying so, he chanted out the epigraph " Spring is always present at the Sunward Gate". Fo Yin, without thinking about the next couplet, said: " accumulated good family celebrates the surplus ". Su Shi was overjoyed to hear it and said, "Since you have fish (Yu) in your exhausted (Qing), why don't you take it out and share it together."

Fo Yin realized that he was Su Shi set up, but he also wanted to continue to "tease" Su Shi, it happens to be a steamed fresh fish, the body was scratched five times, so the monk Fo Yin was inspired to say: "This 'five willow fish So monk Fo Yin had an idea and said, "This 'Five Willows Fish' might as well be called 'Dong Po Fish'." Since then, people have called the "five willow fish" as "Dongpo fish", which has been passed down to this day.

In 1094, Su Dongpo, who was nearly sixty years old, was relegated to Huizhou, a thousand miles away. Huizhou, belonging to Lingnan, was a barbaric place at that time, with a climate very different from that of the north. The living conditions there were extremely difficult, and it was always regarded as a treacherous military state to which only officials who had committed great crimes would be relegated. People in the north moved to this place, often not easy to survive, so people mention Lingnan have to talk about the fear of the tiger.

But in this part of the world, Su Dongpo wrote odes and fugues about wine, and also experimented with brewing osmanthus wine, and invented a delicacy - roasted lamb scorpions. But in the Song Dynasty, lamb was so expensive that the average person could not afford to eat it.

Huizhou, which is far away from the south and north of the sky, is even more commercially backward, the market is sporadic, and the butcher's store only slaughters a sheep every day, and the officials have to buy mutton to eat. Then Su Dongpo from where to get mutton to eat it? Su Dongpo said, I am a banished official, I can not possibly compete with them for meat to eat. So he secretly instructed the butcher to "leave some big beam bones for me."

The big Liang bone is the sheep scorpion we eat today. Su Dongpo could only buy sheep bones back, with a small fire to bake it out, waiting for the bones and flesh slightly charred, can be eaten. Su Dongpo all day long in the sheep spine between picking and picking broken meat, claiming that it is like eating seafood shrimp and crab feeling and flavor.

Su Dongpo also wrote to his brother Su Zhe, recommending the secret technique of this dish. He said he ate about three, five days to eat a sheep spine, and in the letter to tease Su Zhe, you live a good life, many years of public money to eat and drink, full of good mutton, the teeth are sunk in, but also can not touch the sheep bones, how can understand this delicious?

At the end of the letter, Su Dongpo also humorously said that this way of eating is good, just every time you pick the meat on the bones, around the side of a few dogs are very unhappy.

The villain in the dynasty seems to think that Su Dongpo in Huizhou is too easy and dashing, so envisioned a plan, he was relegated to the end of the world in Hainan Danzhou. This go, he all intends to take the coffin to go, did not intend to come back.

The life of the island compared to Huangzhou and Huizhou, can be said to be more difficult. Here lifted nothing, food, no meat, no medicine, no room, no friends, no charcoal in winter, no cold spring in summer, bathing without a bathroom, no books and ink and paper, the first time Su Dongpo felt extremely uncomfortable, really have a sense of days like years.

But it did not take long, Su Dongpo looked away, everything to food. Although Danzhou's food is not much, but he can always find something to his taste. He wrote in a letter to his younger brother Su Zhe wrote: " natives eat potatoes and taro, recommended to fumigate rats and burn bats; the first smell of honey taste vomit, a little close to the toad edge of the custom. "

In addition to these weird and wonderful things, Dong Po also super love to eat their own dumplings. Not only that, he was also quite knowledgeable about the ingredients and production of zongzi. He taught Danzhou people to drown 100 days of duck egg yolks and farm pork into the dumplings, but also taught them to use the specialties of Qiongzhou squid and shrimp and beans into the dumplings, Danzhou people also do so, after simmering really taste special, become famous Danzhou cuisine.

To this day, people in Danzhou, "Dongpo Academy" when admiring the statue of Dongpo Jushi, will naturally think of Su Dongpo and the Dragon Boat Festival and Danzhou rice dumplings of the origins of the relationship.

Some people say that these food treasures all over the north and south of the river he has been to, it can be said to depreciate where to eat, and finally ate a "tongue on the Song Dynasty". I think it is not? Su Dongpo wrote nearly fifty poems related to food in his life: " daily bite of lychee 300, do not quit long as Lingnan people "; " Artemisia vulgaris full of reed buds short, it is the river dolphin wants to go on "; " Artemisia vulgaris full of reed buds short, it is the river dolphin wants to go on "; " I am full with the same abomination, I do not know why it is bitter to eat chicken and dolphin" ...... are all familiar verses, which can be described as a well-deserved gourmet!

Dong Po's life

is the most gorgeous life

He was soft-hearted to save the people in the fire

also dared to argue with the group of ministers above the court

He wrote a thousand poems with great passion

also willing to disregard his life in order to the taste of the puffer fish

He is the most affectionate, spontaneous and open-minded

He is the most beautiful, the most beautiful, the most beautiful and the most beautiful, the most beautiful.

All his life he has been growing towards the sun

Even when the clouds cover the sun

He can face life with optimism and calmness

He enjoys his own life with his own meals and vegetables

On the road with food

He is not a cultural giant, Mr. Sushil Su, or a genius, but he is a man of the world.

He was not the cultural giant Su Shi Su Da Zi (苏大才子)

He was not the Tie Guan Taoist (铁冠道人)

He returned to his idyllic life

He was the same Dong Po Jushi (东坡居士)

He was a simple, simple, simple, simple, simple man who had been a monk for many years.

As he wrote in a letter to his friend:

Recently, I have made a small word, although it is not as flavorful as Liu Qilang, It is also a family of its own.

It is a family of its own.

It is a family of its own. I'm not sure if you're going to be able to do that.

The word "Oh"

It is enough to see that he is calm in the world