The autumn of Suzhou people began with the listing of chicken head rice.

? Chicken head rice? That's what Suzhou people like to call it. It's shaped like a chicken's head, hence the name. It has a familiar name, called? Solid? But Suzhou people still like to call it? Chicken head rice? Say it in the sweet and glutinous Suzhou dialect, so that the population can produce saliva and swallow saliva, which seems to taste the aroma of chicken head rice.

The chicken's head rice is seasonal, and only after a summer of hot steaming will it slowly mature, and the stunner buried in the water will slowly become the shape of a chicken's head.

The cultivation of cockscomb rice is basically the same as that of lotus, in the pond. The leaves of the chicken head rice are also called? Chicken head plate? , green as jasper, shaped like a canopy, leaves are swollen and shriveled, looks unsmooth and has thorns. This? Disk? It's not small, it can be nearly four feet in diameter, and there are upturned edges around it. Is it a real one? Disk? .

In Suzhou in autumn, the most beautiful scenery in the streets and alleys is a group of 351 people, surrounded by a pile, peeling the head of a chicken. Find a cool place, or by a tree, or under the eaves, move a small stool and wear one? Iron nails? While chatting, I peeled off the chicken's head rice, my mouth kept on talking and my fingers kept on. The peeled chicken's head rice is placed in a snow-white porcelain bowl, such as little jade beads, ivory white, transparent and bright. Someone asked:? What's the price of a catty? ? Sister-in-law stopped her work, raised a finger in her left hand and slapped her right hand outward. The person who asked understood and nodded:? Come to a catty, Xiao Nan is happy, buy it and try it fresh. ? Open a plastic bag, pour the chicken's head rice into the bowl, pick up the small scale, put it on a catty of star flowers, and tilt the scale bar. ? I'll give you two more pills. Today is the first business. Two pills need a piece of ocean cymbals. ? The stall owner is refreshing. ? I know, thank you, Nai. ? The guests are satisfied.

Peeling until near noon, look up at the sky, blue sky and white clouds, and the scorching sun is rising. Although the solar terms have passed beginning of autumn, it is not autumn in the real sense. Change a place and continue to peel the jade-like chicken's head rice.

The cicada in the tree is as tight as a sound. Maybe it knows that the days will not last long, but it's a pity that it's underground? Latent? After three or five years, they can only live for two or three months after being unearthed. A cicada? Jump? It fell to the ground with a crash and landed at the feet of an eldest sister-in-law. Sister-in-law took a look at this gray cicada with slightly stretched wings and a deep color, and said lightly:? Autumn is really coming. ? Anyway, my hand didn't stop.

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There is a Huang Tiandang outside the Fengmen Gate in the east of Suzhou, which was called in ancient times? Huang tiandang? Speaking of allusions, I have to say that Qian Liu, who is familiar to Suzhou people, settled Dong Chang in Tang Gan Ning for three years. Fighting against the emperor? .

What are the waters in Suzhou? Three horizontal and four straight? It is said that the river street is adjacent and the land and water are parallel, so it is called? Water town? . There are hundreds of lakes in Suzhou, where cockscomb rice can be planted as long as there are ponds and depressions. Huangtiandang is the largest lake in the east, mainly planting cockscomb rice and lotus roots. So it's yellow? Swing the chicken's head south? Dominant. Later, there was no chicken's head rice in Huang Tiandang, and the chicken's head rice in Suzhou was mainly produced in the inclined pond and garage outside the Fenmen Gate.

Chicken's head rice is mainly peeled by hand, and now it is also processed by machine, but it is not perfect by hand after all. Eating chicken head rice is exquisite, in the words of Mr. Gu Duhuang, an old Suzhou artist: Must be picked in the morning, peeled off in the morning and eaten in the afternoon? In order to eat the fragrance of chicken head rice. ?

In Suzhou food market in autumn, every morning, farmers carry the burden to sell a chicken head that is only bigger than a big pear. Once, I asked the old man out of curiosity: Uncle, how many seeds does a chicken's head have? ? The old man wiped the sweat on his face with a towel: Sister, there are 70 or 80 seeds in a trunk of a big chicken head. Why don't you buy a few and peel them? ? So, I squatted down beside his basket and picked them up one by one. Three were enough for me to peel all morning.

When I got home, I peeled off the chicken's head, and it was dark yellow? Fruit? Jump out, each grain is more than one centimeter in diameter. Wash off the outer layer of thin clothes such as plastic skin in the water. Is this called? Peeling? , and then put it in a container, I will sit at the table and peel it.

At that time, the child was still young. She knelt on the chair at the table, turned over the fruit of the head of a chicken with her little hand, and escaped from her palm in a round and slippery way. After playing for a while, she clamored for the head of a chicken.

There's another thing about burning chicken's head rice. I heard Mr. Shu said that after the water is boiled, put in fresh chicken's head rice, count it in your mouth, and then turn off the fire after 40 seconds. This kind of chicken's head rice is fragrant and chewy. Put it into a bowl, add a little fine sugar, sprinkle with a few dried osmanthus flowers, and hang out the flavor. Eat it while it is hot when you can enter, and the taste will change when it is cold.

Watching my daughter munch, I told her about the hard work of the farmer's uncle. These chicken's head rice must be cut off in the morning. The farmer's uncle stood in the water wearing a water coat at dawn, put on gloves and touched it carefully at the bottom of the water, but he had to be careful to watch out for thorns. When you touch the head of a chicken, cut it off with a bamboo knife, light and flexible, and don't hurt the fruit handle. You have to move your feet carefully in the water, and don't trample on the root system of the chicken head, because the chicken head rice has been collected from beginning of autumn until October. ? My daughter spat out her tongue, and then counted them one by one. I smiled and said nothing. Maybe she had responded to the farmer's uncle's hard work in her heart.

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I really knew the chicken's head rice in the early 1980s. My boyfriend needed nutrition to improve his immunity because of liver disease. Because it was in winter and there was nothing fresh, he bought it at the pharmacy? Solid? . Euryale ferox, which has the effect of consolidating kidney and tonifying spleen, is sweet, astringent and flat, and enters spleen and kidney meridians. The fruit has a light brown color, its shape is bigger than that of soybean, and it is hard to touch on the hand. It takes several hours to soak before cooking, otherwise it will not be chewed at all.

He found a magazine, pointed to it and read:? Gordon Euryale, the leaves are as big as lotus, and the common name is the head of a chicken, which is also like the head of a chicken. The Wujiang capital shell is thin and green, and the Changzhou workshop is yellow, which is divided into glutinous rice and glutinous rice. ? ("Gu Su Zhi" in Ming Dynasty) He told me the name of this one? Beibei? What is the chicken's head rice in Suzhou? Nanxun? . So this is as real as this? South orange and north orange? Similar, related to the growing soil and water.

The fresh Euryale ferox is like Suzhou people's nature, sweet, glutinous and mild, but you can't eat more, because you are afraid of causing defecation and intestinal discomfort. Everything has a degree, and greed should be controlled.

In the autumn of the following year, I really tasted the unique chicken head rice in Suzhou. One mouthful is delicious, and two mouthfuls are fragrant. Since then, I have been looking forward to the arrival of autumn every year, so that I can eat my fill and enjoy the delicious food on earth.

Suzhou people pay attention to one? Do not eat from time to time? Diet is linked to the season and eating the best food in the season. Suzhou people also love to eat and can eat. The stem of the chicken's head rice is also a kind of food. A chicken's head and a rice pole? , also called? Chicken diamond pole? . The first time I ate this stem was at a relative's house in Wujiang. I served this dish and tasted it. It tasted delicious, and it tasted like lotus root, but it was not like lotus root. The taste is soft and slightly salty. Thin and white, it was cut into oblique knives, about thicker than the pen, with seven or eight holes like lotus root inside, and a plate of fried white jade-like food was quickly eliminated. Relatives told us that this is called? A chicken's head and a rice pole? It's the same thickness from top to bottom. Before cooking, peel off the purple skin, cut a few knives and stir-fry it in the oil pan.

In the autumn, I often look for this in the food market? A chicken's head and a rice pole? It's rare to buy it. Maybe I live a little far from the pond where the chicken head rice is produced.

Some foods need one? Fate? Words, if there is no chance, can't be forced. You can eat enough chicken head rice in autumn.

Last year, I bought a few kilos of chicken head rice and went to my classmate's home hundreds of kilometers away, so that he could also taste our Suzhou's gentle and jade-like chicken head rice. Put it in the refrigerator and you can enjoy this delicious food all year round.