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Life in Beijing
It seems that every tourist city will play such a card, and a certain place retains the most primitive cultural features and life flavor of the city, such as Julu Road in Shanghai, Confucius Temple in Nanjing, Where Street in Hangzhou and Old Town of Lijiang. So we have to face the game between historical significance and commercial value, and the result is that there is no perfect choice.

As long as this place is advertised as a "must-punch place", every worshipper who comes is both a destroyer and a defender. And if the door is closed and completely closed, it will become a legend that is not understood by the world. Isn't it a disappointment and sorrow?

In the autumn of 20 14, I went to Nanluoguxiang for the first time. There are many shops and stalls at different levels, and the streets are crowded. I had to move at the speed of a large army. I bought some snacks. Are they delicious? After walking this 1000-meter alley, I didn't leave any thoughts.

A year later, I started working in Beijing, had dinner with my friends during the break, and went into Nanluoguxiang again. This time, I went deeper and entered a fork in the road. In another year, Nanluoguxiang Scenic Area announced that it would cancel the "3A" qualification, no longer accept tour groups, and at the same time carry out business circle rectification and residents relocation. During this period, I made a series of hutongs and visited all kinds of hutongs in Beijing. After the reconstruction of Nanluoguxiang, I thought about it and came back.

What's in Nanluoguxiang?

After the rectification, Nanluoguxiang business district was upgraded, and the number of shops was reduced from 235 to 154, all low-end street snacks were banned, and the characteristic creative diet was retained. The design of the house is very retro, with red doors, blue bricks and gray tiles, and some quaint deep alleys have been found.

More shops with Beijing-style folk culture can see folk customs such as New Year pictures, sugar people and rabbits.

1 13-2 Beiping International Youth Hostel is very eye-catching. There are all kinds of plants in front of the shop all year round. From the big glass, there are countless exotic flowers and grasses. The boss is called Eyelashes, and she is a girl from Qinghai. She is committed to building a garden-style youth hostel, and spends as much as 400 thousand yuan on flowers and planting every year. The main consumer groups of hotels are foreigners. No wonder when Nanluoguxiang first became popular with the label of "literature and art", it was widely publicized on foreign websites.

No.39 Donghuamian Hutong is the Central Academy of Drama, which is known as the theater bone conveying place for performing arts. But now Changping has a new campus for Chinese opera, so this old campus is always quiet. Occasionally, students in Chinese opera uniforms come to the school gate to buy meals, which is not a bustling beauty. They turn into the campus with access cards. When you observe all this, the security guard at the gate will silently observe you.

Chinese opera is a kind of intangible literature and art, and the Peng Hao Theatre No.35 next door is the literature and art that can be felt. This is the first non-profit independent theater invested by the people in Chinese mainland. Its founder is a dentist who loves drama. His name is Wang Xiang. Up to this year, he has held eight Nanluoguxiang Drama Festival. One third of the funds come from the box office. If there is government support, one third will come from the government. If not, it will be fully subsidized from the income of the dentist's office, with a loss of 5.6 million in eight years. But in order to create and maintain this drama "Utopia" in his mind, he has been insisting.

If we go further into other branches, we can also find the former residences of various celebrities lurking here, such as Heshang Palace in Chaodou Hutong, Rong Lu's former residence in Juer Hutong, Mao Dun's former residence in Houyuanen Temple, Wanrong's former residence in Maoer Hutong and so on. Although most of the buildings are incomplete, it is still worth visiting and feeling the vicissitudes of history.

Flowing in Nanluoguxiang, the more important reason is eating. Wenyu cheese shop eats it every time I go. The owner is an old master of Sanyuan Meiyuan. The main original cheese and double skin milk are delicious. Other popular shops, such as Amy's frozen yogurt and Miss Hai's rose cake, are not unusual, but they are complete. In fact, more food shops are buried in side lanes, and it takes time to explore.

I once had Swiss cheese fondue with my friends in Elesa Hutong. It is called cheese honey, and cheese cake is first-class. The main dish, fondue cheese, can be served with all kinds of meat and vegetables. For friends who like cheese, it's really a feast. Two people spent 300 yuan, they really can't finish it, and they want to get something to eat.

Suzuki canteen in Maoer Hutong, popular Japanese restaurant, beef chafing dish, Suzuki patty, Japanese barbecue … every dish is worth recommending, and the decoration in the store is also very warm.

The exotic food in Hutong is not inferior to Sanlitun, but Sanlitun emphasizes high-end exquisiteness, while the small shops in Hutong are small and beautiful. Speaking of which, I also remembered an interesting thing. Outsiders living in Beijing have regional preferences, while those living in Hutong and Sanlitun despise each other.

There are also many grounded foods, such as the ghost-flavored roasted wings in black sesame hutong, which are mainly well preserved, especially tasty and rich in flavor, such as mustard. ...

For cat lovers, there is also a beautiful paradise hidden in the alley. Having afternoon tea and patting the cat are all enjoyment.

I tried to appear in Nanluoguxiang at eight o'clock in the morning. There are few pedestrians and the streets are empty. I walked on the blue-gray inlaid Shi Zhuan and looked at the shops that were not open on both sides. It's refreshing Gradually, the number increased. The aborigines in the hutong cross the street with breakfast, the outsiders look around with backpacks, and the office workers ride bicycles leisurely. In two hours, cycling is forbidden here, and there will be no such enjoyment.

Cities always need to create a dreamlike place.