On Day 6, we left the Cangdie family guesthouse in Lulang, Linzhi, and circled around to the city of Shannan on the edge of the Yarlung Zangbo River, where I had my first yak and meat Tibetan meal
In the morning at Zhaxigang Village in the town of Lulang, Linzhi, I went into the Cangdie family's living room to come in for breakfast, which consisted of white congee and eggs. She was cooking biscuits by the stove. I saw her use a knife to spread ghee on her pancake, so I followed her example and ate it too, and it tasted really good.Pai lives upstairs in Cangdui's house, and he's not up yet. Cang Di said he heard him talking on the phone upstairs last night and kept laughing and joking, and he stayed up late. We told Pai, and Pai said he heard the family downstairs talking and laughing until late. It seems that the Tibetan house is really not soundproof.
To leave Lulang, a little reluctant to part with, like here clean and tidy, orderly conditioning, a different style of appearance. This is attributed to the owner's hard work and wisdom, and the root of this is their cultural beliefs. In addition, thanks to the country to build the road to this place, giving them the opportunity to get rich, but also gives us the opportunity to understand them easily. Regardless of ethnicity, isn't it the most universal value to be able to pursue personal happiness in a clear and stable environment? Kind of want to stay and watch the four seasons. Later, I heard Yang Wang complaining that some parts of the standard deluxe room in Cangdijia were not up to standard, such as the bathroom did not have handkerchiefs, and the TV was not working for some reason. In any case, my personal experience is very good, or to advertise her home, Linzhi CangDi family hotel.
Along the 318 continue westward, we wear out the sea of forest not long after the climb up, light rain into snow, the wind is also big up, soon came to the elevation of 4559 meters Sedera Pass. The sky is cloudy, naturally, did not look at the Himalayas of the Namcha Barwa Peak.
After Ranwu and Lulang, I didn't seem to have much to look forward to. From the Linzhi city next to pass, we took a section of highway, and then by through a county road through down to the city of Shannan. Shannan region is one of the birthplaces of Tibetan civilization, Yalong River tens of thousands of years ago there were collecting groups of human tribes. In the long history of continuous development, in the 7th century AD the 33rd generation of the half-agricultural, half-nomadic tribe here, Songtsen Gampo (King of Tibet) united the whole of Tibet, established the Tubo Dynasty, and moved the capital to the present Lhasa, thus opening the Tibet's official history. Shannan has the legendary first piece of cultivated land in Tibet ("Sodang" in Zedang Saje village), the first palace (Yongbrakang) and the first temple (Sangye Monastery), as well as the tombs of earlier generations of Tibetan kings.
However, in recent years, archaeology has shown that before the Tubo dynasty, originating in the Ali region of western Tibet, the Xiangxiong dynasty once covered a large area of Tibet, had a strong military and brilliant civilization, and at that time, Shannan tribes were only a vassal of the Xiangxiong dynasty. All aspects of modern Tibetan customs also show the characteristics of the ancient Xiangxiong culture, such as the turn of the sacred mountains and lakes, kowtow, push Nyima pile, hanging streamers, jumping pot pile dance and so on.
Shannan city in the Yarlung Zangbo River, the river clean water, the river is wide and calm, the sandbar between the dark green and light green, or tall or short trees, sparse and dense like a musical note constitutes a rich melody in the river valley. This was the first prefecture-level city we stopped at when we entered the Tibet Autonomous Region (National Highway 318 does not pass through Linzhi City, so it was just a distant view). The downtown of Shannan City is not big, it seems that there are only two main roads running east-west. Stores along the street sell some daily necessities and souvenirs commonly used by Tibetans, including a lot of religious items, such as ghee lamp bowls, offerings on the Buddha's niche and so on. Cloth store inside the various colors of cotton prints and the mainland is very different, quite a national flavor, if not for fear of luggage weight, I want to bring back some. The first time I saw this, I was in the middle of a long journey, and it was a long time before I was able to get back to the house.
In the city of Shannan, I live in the Secret Garden Inn 3 room, 44 yuan a bed. There was already a girl living in the house, and she greeted me quite warmly with snacks. She had just finished a work project in the neighborhood and came to Shannan City to take a break. She is a Hubei native whose home is in Hunan, and her boyfriend is a civil servant in Sangri County, Shannan. Why don't we go out for dinner? Sure. She said that her client took her to a very special Tibetan restaurant two days ago and asked if I was interested. Of course I am! So she started asking for the name and address of that restaurant on WeChat. We both walked down the street to hang out. She stayed flush jaw short hair, a face of collagen, white and beautiful, more than half a head taller than me, big-boned, slightly stocky but very well-proportioned body, legs long, mannerisms and accents a bit like my sister-in-law in Hubei. The Hubei girls are quite a few tall ah. Her friends did not reply or do not remember the Tibetan restaurant she referred to, so we decided to just find a place to eat it. Walking, she said it seems to be here, and led me into an alley, actually found it - the ancestor's hometown Tibetan restaurant! The main door in an inconspicuous alley, opposite the door there is a row of transepts. In fact, along the street side of the second floor can also see the restaurant's signboard.
Inside, as she said, it is decorated like a museum, with a lot of antique artifacts. There are vivid storytelling bas-reliefs on the surrounding walls depicting the encounter between the Tibetan ancestor, Rosa, and a sacred monkey in the mountains, with a taxidermy sheep on the side. In Shannan legend, man is the offspring of the divine monkey and the Rosa woman. Dare not say that these furnishings are beautiful, certainly not aesthetic style, but there are also meticulous care in which the overall slightly awkward but also solemn and real, without the slightest pompous pretense.
There is a small stage inside the restaurant, and it is said that there will be a song and dance show at 8 o'clock. We sat down and ordered yak meat, mushrooms, vegetables, barley fruit, a pot of milk tea and a ginseng fruit yogurt. As we ate, we talked about yoga and spirituality. She pushed an isha yoga public number to me and said she was going to volunteer at an isha center in India at the end of May. Yoga, as a fitness exercise, I have also practiced, but I think a lot of the so-called spiritual classes are the pastime of the rich and idle. She said isha is different, it is a service organized mainly by volunteers, aiming to promote the spirit of yoga to the world, teaching the way of life from the inside out to control their own lives. She said she did not study in college, very early out to do things, business earned and lost, and now some of the thin production, want to live a simple and relaxed life, ready to buy a yard in Sangri County, engage in some organic agriculture.
I asked her curiously whether the environment here is conducive to the future of children's education. She said that she and her boyfriend do not plan to have children, the purpose of the practice is to be free from the world, why create a person to stay here. I don't plan to have children either, because I am not brave enough and I am worried that I am not capable enough to be responsible. There can be different practices and different missions in life. She and I are both sensitive, and do not dare to put too much faith in the current social situation, not wanting our children to face the current education system, or live in an environment where industrial pollution is pervasive. Perhaps we are both people of little faith. She is only 28 years old this year, and there are still so many possibilities in her life. I heard that I go to Lhasa tomorrow, she suggested that I live in Barkhor Street near the Da Zhao Temple, where the daytime is lively, but also quiet at night, around the walking distance there are a lot of interesting places.
The hand-held yak meat was superb! It also comes with roasted baby potatoes, like a delicate western food, and the flavor is not bad at all. The barley fruit was not too crispy, probably due to the ingredients. We shared the ginseng yogurt, which was a bit sour despite the added sugar. We ate all the dishes, just full. The performers of the song and dance came out, and they were actually an older woman and an older man. The music accompaniment played, they sang and tap up, the following dinner guests also seemed to appreciate their heart performance, from time to time burst out applause. On the mainland, if they weren't handsome and beautiful, probably no one would have watched them. Outside the sky is not yet dark, we skipped to a small square in town, where there are men and women young and old circle jumping Tibetan tap dance - pot pile dance, we are next to the imitation dance, a few Tibetan old lady looked at us straight smile.