Since Milan ended with a hint of Dior, let's start with Dior in Paris. Seeing Dior for the first time this season, forgive me for thinking about Etro and low-end Valentino superficially.
A lot of cashew flowers are used this season, and Etro is the best brand to make cashew flowers.
Aunt Maria, the creative director, used to work in Valentino, and started the fairy dress era of Valentino with Uncle Piccioli. It is said that Dior in Maria period was like Valentino, but actually it was more like red Valentino, and the pattern design and tailoring were still not as exquisite as Valentino in Errenzhuan period.
This season's Dior is also like a comfortable trip with bohemian flavor, picking cashew flowers from India, studying Ikat Endek in Indonesia, making clothes with Japanese tailoring, and finally returning to France to print the brand's iconic Rue stamp to pay tribute to the classic silhouette of the brand. This series incorporates the customs and craft essence of different countries. The whole series is rich in oriental sentiment, coupled with western-style tailoring, and the East and the West blend harmoniously.
At the end of the last article, it was said that Aunt Maria's tribute to Dior's classics was widely praised. This season, Aunt Maria also got inspiration from Dior's archives and improved the silhouette of 1957 haute couture Japanese collection for autumn and winter, making it more in line with the needs of modern women.
This season, you can see many cool designs, which are very comfortable with Aunt Maria's iconic belt. As for the effect, it is no different from other models she made.
As a feminist, Maria still gets inspiration from women in this season, without a direct slogan, but from the life of women who write. Virginia Woolf's favorite bright colors; Susan Sontag (whose inspiration is also Erdam's work) loves simple and neat white shirts, which are inspired by women's different preferences to make clothes to meet women's diverse needs. Personally, I think women's rights are more attentive this season than last season.
Although the style span is quite large, the cutting and matching methods are quite similar, so the whole is still very consistent. Apart from exquisite craftsmanship and printed patterns, there is nothing to see in details, and structural tailoring is almost impossible, but the overall situation is not good.
In order to liberate women's bodies and cut the silhouette loosely, an exotic vest or thin belt is used to create a split waistline.
Dior's characteristic is to highlight the three-dimensional tailoring of the waistline. Aunt Maria relaxed her waistline to express the concept of not being bound, but it is not necessary for all models to have no waistline. Even if there is a waist reduction, the waist cut is slightly bloated.
Accessories still have a lot to watch, such as the improvement of classic Lady Dior, explosive Bobby bag launched by Maria menstruation, Montaigne handbag and Book Tote bag. ......
There are also new clutch bags this season, classic diamond patterns and presbyopia, ground printed woven patterns consistent with this season's theme, and smart and lovely little tassels.
All the shoes have been replaced with flat shoes, and there is no pressure.
Jewelry is versatile and exquisite, and it also incorporates oriental characteristics, but it always feels similar in texture.
Dries Van Noten (hereinafter referred to as DVN), as one of the six famous ladies in Antwerp, may not be outside the circle, but its exquisite artistry makes it the favorite of fashionistas.
Today, with the prevalence of fast food, street style and simple style, DVN, like a poet in the fashion world, slowly tells its classic and gorgeous story, and makes ready-made clothes with a strong elite aesthetic and advanced attitude. I strongly recommend his program, which is extremely romantic.
Different from last season's "nostalgia" aesthetic, this season is forward-looking. "We want to focus on the beauty that evokes energy, not what makes you dream or linger in the past, which will make you nostalgic."
On the beach in Rotterdam, the sun is shining and the breeze is blowing gently;
Explore the art of light and shadow in front of the indoor pure white background. Color light and shadow dye out the clothing background, and light and shadow blend with printing, which is inseparable, forming a psychedelic and gorgeous effect.
DVN's beautiful abstract prints this season are developed through a whole series of cooperation with the Len Lye Foundation, "psychedelic sun, sunshine and moon, diaphragm and palm trees", which are rich in colors but extremely harmonious. How to make fancy clothes with high sense still depends on DVN.
Shooting outdoors at the seaside is more comfortable and light. Tank vests, Bermuda shorts, short-sleeved shirts, swimsuits and hollow fabric designs ... With cold metal necklaces and vests, the coolness and enthusiasm of summer alone collide, and the intensity of the impact washes away the anguish caused by the epidemic.
Indoor light and shadow techniques are used wantonly, echoing the lines and colors of clothing printing, giving clothing new pattern colors.
In addition to the light and relaxed shape, there are also slightly formal shapes, such as shirt dresses, long windbreakers, multi-layer tulle dresses, suits and so on. With a thin gauze skirt, perspective and unconventional tailoring, it is much easier and faster all year round.
It can be seen that this season's younger trend still adheres to the brand's consistent aesthetics, but it also adds futuristic elements such as silver metal reflective fabrics, which combines classicality and trendy.
Because of the Benoit explosion in Lebanon, many Lebanese brands have been hit. Fortunately, most of Elie Saab's works survived in Paris and participated in Fashion Week.
Elie Saab has changed the complexity and exquisiteness of the past, and the whole is more concise (compared with the previous brands), reducing its iconic large-area bead embroidery and showing the texture trend of the fabric more.
The whole series is suitable for holidays and red carpets. Classic black and white and bright colors, warm red, yellow and green, elegant and unrestrained, are all so delicate and moving.
There are a lot of organ folds and wooden ears this season. The organ folds are tough and regular, and the fungus is smart and three-dimensional. They are decorated on skirts and skirts, adding a lot of details. The gorgeous logo of the brand appears frequently. Earrings, necklaces, belts and gorgeous dresses are all very nice.
Sleeves are one of the highlights of this season. Bishop's sleeves, leg sleeves, trumpet sleeves, bubble sleeves ... the wrinkles on them are very beautiful, and they also match the whole set of look.
This season's prints are full of free-growing and open plants with bright and beautiful colors. The vitality of spring and summer is everywhere through the skirt, but this background is chosen as autumn and winter. Anyway, the seasons of fairy cards are not much different. There are also many iconic beaded embroidery, but this season's patterns are not too picky and the colors are slightly cheaper.
Sisters, I have come to Amway, a relatively unknown but beautiful brand. Acne Studios conveys a clear optimism this season, and the colors of the whole series are very light and bright.
Every set is more or less illuminated, from the whole dress to the silver woven interior and accessories, bright but not dazzling, subtle but endless, giving people a feeling of hope.
The color corresponds to the change of light, and the sunny day is pure white; The sunset glow at dusk is full of energy in orange; There are not very bright stars hanging in the blue sky; After the silence in the middle of the night and a bright moon, everything becomes full after absorbing the aura of the stars and moons; Finally, the dawn illuminates the earth and enters a new cycle again. From this point of view, it is quite similar to Burberry.
This season, I collaborated with artist Ben Queen to create a beautiful and colorful digital print. Other fabrics are also very interesting. Cracked leather, metal fiber organza, pearlescent cotton and pearlescent paper will reflect different colors of light, bright or dark, as dazzling as sunlight and as clear as moonlight. Things that are brightly colored during the day may be dim at night; What is dim during the day will shine at night.
Fabric accessories with a pioneering sense of industry collide with cotton and linen fabrics with a strong sense of natural tradition, as well as traditional crochet techniques and fishing nets, as if it were a dialogue between old and new civilizations.
As a whole, it presents a slightly messy and irregular state, and with bright colors and light fabrics, it is relaxed, cheerful and full of aura.
Balmain's program this season is very interesting, because many guests can't watch the program at special times, so they watch the program in the form of video connection. Pieces of electronic screens stand in the audience of the program, which is very ... online courses are all visual.
This series draws inspiration from Balmain's archives and blends in with offline popular things, which is retro and fashionable.
This season's focus is on the shaping of shoulder lines. Exaggerated pagoda shoulder pads run through the whole series, and its frequent use makes it the most dazzling element in the audience. They are powerful, magnificent, retro, gorgeous ... it's hard to remember them. With it, it can be used as a self-defense weapon even in times of crisis.
Although many brands of shoulder pads are being made, Balmain's shrug suit is also a classic.
But to be honest, this shoulder pad is very Balenciaga, and someone will come out in autumn and winter of 2020. The tower shoulder was first created by Mr. Pierre Cardin in 1979.
In addition to large shoulder pads, there are many conspicuous elements this season. One is palindrome printing of PB letters. At first glance, it looks like Fendi, but when you look closely, it smells like Givenchy and Versace. Doesn't seem to matter. In fact, this is a monogram created by Pierre Balmain, the founder of the brand, in the 1970s, which is widely used in the show to pay tribute to the brand classics.
The other is cycling shorts, which are very Kardashian, but the Kardashian family is also closely related to Ba Erman, and cycling shorts are also brought by the Kardashian family. But I'm not very good at cycling shorts. Don't Bermuda shorts of this length smell good? Are these tight pants bad? Moreover, the requirements for hip, crotch and waist-hip ratio are too high. I'm just talking nonsense, it's not true.
There are also bell-bottoms for mopping the floor with walking sweepers, PB monogram and large shoulder pads, which are very retro.
Other designs that appear in a small area are actually very fragrant, such as fixed folds, cross designs, multi-layer pendulum collars and asymmetric suits. I still prefer these elaborate designs. The whole series has a strong sense of design, but it has a sense of patchwork and no recognition.
Chloé was named "the season of hope". It is not difficult to see hope for the future from this season's works. Big and small "hopes" are everywhere decorated, butterflies, flowers and other miniature of spring vitality linger everywhere, but retro elements are innovative, and the whole is bright and relaxed, and a beautiful imagination of next spring and summer is launched. But why wear such dead makeup?
This season, based on self-identity, independent thinking and the relationship between women and society, the infinite and improved gender symbols and holding rings in accessories convey designers' thinking about women's roles.
This season, Chloé collaborated with the artist Corita Kent to print and embroider her works created between 1963- 1967 on this season's items. Coupled with the feminist concept held by the creative director, it is very light and soft, with a retro charm.
Gentle and quiet floral prints, small lace, retro and energetic letter prints, functional accessories ... both feminine and powerful.
Different from Alberta Ferretti's pure female strength, Chloé takes a fancy to and shows the soft characteristics of women, while balancing the elements of force and feeling. A girl in Chloé is like a fairy covered with a layer of soft armor, soft but not fragile, powerful but not cold and hard. This season, on the basis of retaining the light femininity, we add lively and masculine elements, showing the refreshing feeling of girlhood and adolescence as a whole.
Butterfly embroidery on the neckline of the shirt, stitching of fabrics, belt with a sense of design ... the details are also worth seeing.
The newly launched Hobo handbag is decorated with irregular metal handle "Kiss of Chloé", Hailey handbag is decorated with drawstring, Daria handbag has a new color, sunglasses bag ... There are many forests, but there is nothing particularly beautiful, and the accessories are still the fragrance of Claire period.
Sisters, do you remember Miss Venus buying pirated clothes? Yes, it is the brand Uma Wang, an excellent designer brand in China. Although the popularity is not high, the clothes are still very nice.
"A modern soul in ancient costume", Uma Wang describes the inspiration of this season-French poet and essayist charles baudelaire. Art, classicism, modernity and rebellion blend together, forming a season of light clouds and light wind and no affectation.
The whole film presents loneliness, semi-new and not old colors, wrinkled fabrics, untreated skirts and loose outlines, and the whole film also presents a yellowed and faded texture.
In this series, everything has lost its original features, just like charles baudelaire's works, with a rebellious spirit, abandoning tradition and getting rid of glitz.
Everything has become slack and "old", elegant suits are baggy, neat trench coats are wide and wrinkled, and even sexy perspective black gauze and suspenders have become deserted.
However, there are some beautiful designs. The winding suspenders outline a slender outline, classical crotch knotting decoration, irregular skirt, long ribbon, well-defined sleeves, pocket-like decoration, chic hat, clear and calm.
But, very picky. When you wear it, you are like a sage, and you have nothing to ask for. If you don't wear it well, you will look down and out.
I cried when I watched isabel marant this season. Natasha poly came out and twisted again, and the epidemic didn't stop. That's true love. As for advertising, don't ask, it's not true if you ask.
Maltier Veerhoff, Constance Ya Blenski
Kiki Williams, natasha poly
The occasional appearances of Mathieu Verhof and Constance Ya Blenski are also here, along with Kiki Willers, Lexi Bolin, Sarah Grace Wallersted, Phyllis Nordhoff, Rebecca and Jesuli Chen. Cam's fine.
This season, there is no trouble under the epidemic, only retro and enthusiastic disco dancing.
Inspired by donna sommer and Cindy Lauper, a large area of floral prints, shining metallic colors, gorgeous red and retro blue are full of vitality and can be immediately put on the hot dance floor.
Silhouette clipping and collocation are all familiar formulas of isabel marant, "Myilhouetteisveryrecognizable. I can't design another way. I don't have to force myself, because times are different. " My design outline is very recognizable and I can't design it in another way. I don't have to force myself, because times are hard. For this series, the designer explained it like this.
Actually, you don't have to force it. Stick to your own characteristics and do it well. The designer's final work is still a set of look. After reading a long speech, it is not as useful as beautiful clothes that can make people sing.
Clothing is the best language. If you look closely at the real masters, there are not many malicious words. Everything you want to express is reflected in the clothes. Almost every set of look is meaningful, and every show is not boring.