Friends, some time ago, one after another and share with you Lingao, Baimajing strategy, my western line of Hainan travel also finally came to the last stop Dongfang, a clean seaside city. Although it is called Dongfang, it is in the westernmost part of Hainan.
Like the tropical island towns I imagined, this place has an unlimited supply of sunshine, blue ocean waves, and coconut palms all over the city, and people of loose temperament sit all day long in their dad's tea store.
In a city with its own leisurely pace, one's steps become lazy.
Climatically, the East has a tropical monsoon oceanic climate, and it is backed by the Five Fingers Mountain belonging to the leeward slope, possessing the attribute of dryness and little rain. That's why, even when the north has fallen into the cold winter, this place still has unrestrained sunshine, and even the saturation of the sky is much higher.
I was just thinking about the average temperature of 20 degrees Celsius, and I couldn't wait to pack my bags for another trip.
Dongfang is very close to the sea, it is the only three cities in Hainan where the downtown area is right on the beach (the other two are Haikou and Sanya), where the certainty of seeing the blue sea just a few steps away tends to give me a great sense of security.
In terms of cost of living, Dongfang is the largest base for producing crops in Hainan Province, so fruits and vegetables are extremely cheap, even up to one-third of those in Haikou or Sanya.
After seeing an endless supply of seasonal seafood at the bustling Basho fishing port, and having fought with a variety of pickles, chili sauces, and tropical fruits in the vegetable market, you'll realize that the solid joy of eating to your stomach is well-stocked here.
The Oriental Roast Suckling Pig, Oriental Harbor Gate Noodle, and Dad's Tea, which I found so delicious that I stomped my feet, are all representatives of gluttony.
No wonder it's a city favored by the migratory Northeastern people who come to Hainan for the winter, exaggerating to the point that a dedicated Northeastern food market (again, superb) has even been formed in the city.
In terms of transportation, Dongfang is also convenient. Take the high speed train around the island from Haikou 1h40min, Sanya 1h can be to the East. Next, start with me to the East to take a stroll ~
Dongfang shopping and eating guide
Shijian Zhoudian roasted suckling pig
In Hainan, Lingao roasted suckling pig is notorious. But I've seen many people express their displeasure on behalf of Dongfang Roasted Suckling Pig before, requesting to go to war. I have no intention of inviting war, but when it comes to the Oriental roasted suckling pig I naturally want to try.
The Oriental roasted suckling pig stores are basically concentrated in the vicinity of the Basho fishing port, this roasted suckling pig street can be unlocked by the way after strolling through the fishing port. When I arrived at the place, the scene was pretty wild.
The pigs were roasting on a charcoal grill right next to the street, their skins already charred, with a slight amount of grease oozing out as they looked closer, and the scent of charcoal mixed with the aroma of meat floating in the air.
The Oriental roasted suckling pig is a 40-day-old pig, which is younger than those in Lingao. It's also not roasted early in the morning to sell out, but is roasted 24 hours a day while it's being sold. The price is not cheap, 200 yuan a catty is still in short supply, buy such a small plate will be more than 300.
While roasting, the chef will keep brushing the pork with oil, which heats up quickly after the charcoal grill, so the skin becomes crispy.
But the inner layer of lean pork is still very tender to eat without any firewood. There is also a thin layer of fat between the skin and the lean meat, and the slow roasting over the charcoal removes the excess fat, making the fat meat flavorful but not greasy.
Bite into a bite, there is even a rich juice overflow. The meat doesn't leave you feeling greasy at all, it's crispy, plump and so delicious that you want to scream!
Inside, I'm glad I don't live in the East, or else my wallet would really be in jeopardy.
Daddy's Tea Shop
Daddy's Tea is the name given to morning tea in Hainan. In the late 19th century, returning Hainanese overseas Chinese brought the habit of drinking tea in Southeast Asia back home, and there came this fusion teahouse that serves both tea and coffee as well as all kinds of Chinese and Western snacks.
The old man (the Hainanese name for the elderly) is often found in the teahouse, and the name "Dad's Tea" has gone unchallenged.
Drinking dad tea in the East atmosphere is also very strong. On the two streets from Jiefang West Road to Basho Station, there are many tea stores, and table after table on the street is full of people drinking tea.
My intuitive feeling is that the concentration of men on this street is so high that I feel pressured to pass by.
The locals go to a tea store for breakfast, order a pot of tea and some snacks and bread, and a group of old men can sit in the store drinking tea and chatting all morning. Tea is also not elaborate, often is a few dollars a pot of popular tea, snacks are also very affordable.
On the recommendation of the locals, I went to the Hui Hui Mei Xin tea store.
I ordered a pot of milk tea, a local practice that actually involves filling a teapot with milk. You'll also be given another small cup of sugar, and you can control the sweetness yourself.
The bread is also traditional, but it's all made in-house, and a new drawer will come up when it's sold out. I ordered a coconut bun, the bread is soft and soft, with a full layer of coconut on the top. It reminded me of the satisfaction I felt when I ate coconut as a child.
It was 25 degrees in the morning in the Orient, and the sun wasn't too strong, so it was nice to sit on the side of the road and enjoy the breeze. No one was in a hurry, and everyone was content to sit.
If Hainanese men are judged to be idle because of the popularity of their tea stores, they are in denial.
I briefly chatted with the dads around me, and their general feeling is that Hainan is hot, and they generally go to work when it's cool, and when the sun is too full during the day, they come here to drink tea and rest.
Gangmen Lumian
The Oriental people love to eat Lumian, and here is to belong to the Gangmen Lumian most famous.
In the city of Dongfang, if you want to eat the authentic flavor, you can go to Mui Huat Hong Kong Gate Noodle Shop. The business is run by Meihua from Hongkong Gate, who has been selling this bowl of noodles for many years. Year-round business has accumulated a group of regular regular customers, who crave the taste of this bowl of noodles.
Though it's called noodles, its base is actually flat rice noodles. The marinade is thickened with groundnut flour, and the noodles are coated with this thickened marinade, making them extra smooth and easy to swallow.
Among all the ingredients, I think the most special thing is that two tablespoons of ground sesame and peanuts are added, and after mixing thoroughly, each piece of rice noodle is covered with fine sesame and peanuts.
The texture of the noodles is sweet, but because there are so many ingredients, it's not too sweet. The sauerkraut hidden inside is an outlier, slightly acidic but not overly so, and instead makes you feel refreshed with the occasional chopstick.
After eating, the exposed sourness, the mishmash of saltiness and sweetness in the brine remain between your lips and teeth.
Lam Kee Bun Lo Noodle
Lam Kee Bun Lo Noodle is also a longtime favorite, with people stopping by at different times of the day to grab a bowl of noodle to warm up their tummies.
The noodles are thicker than Hainanese noodles, which are also made from rice, and have a rounded, chubby look and sweeter marinade.
Like other Hainanese noodles, it comes in a soup version and a dry-marinated version, and I chose the latter. 15 yuan for a comprehensive noodle dish with 10 or so toppings, including shredded squid, beef jerky, peanuts and pickled bamboo shoots. And from $15 you get an extra squid ball and beef ball.
The marinade for the vermicelli is brown and thick, with a texture like lotus root powder. There is so much marinade that almost the entire bowl of noodles is infused with it, and each bite is preceded by a thick, gelatinous texture in the mouth.
The noodles are also sprinkled with fine white sesame seeds, which are fragrant when you bite into them occasionally.
Cheung Kee Coffee
The oldest of the serious food stores has a bit of a temperament of its own. Zhang Ji Coffee is tucked away in an alleyway just off Dad's Tea Street.
On the roadside you can only see an unassuming store sign, and further in, the store is housed in the most traditional of oriental homes.
They are only in the business of afternoon tea, and visiting the store for a cup of coffee and a seitan is a tradition that belongs to the old school.
The coffee beans are made from Hainan's locally produced Xinglong Coffee, and the old-school approach is to add a spoonful of condensed milk to the coffee liquid, and remember to stir it well with a spoon before drinking it, which makes it taste very rich and flavorful.
The toast is also very good, and the slices of bread soaked in egg are savory and soft.
Bring a glass of old salt water before you go. Old salt water is Hainanese people's happy water to relieve the summer heat and is served in many milk tea stores. In comparison, Zhangji Coffee's would be more traditional.
Because there is no pressure to produce in bulk, their old salt is their own stockpile of salt for 10 years or so, and the fruits are all seasonal fruits, freshly cut, with no syrups or additives, so that you can get the most traditional flavor of old salt passion fruit lemonade.
Old train station stir-fry consomme
The owner's son is 22 years old, and he has been making stir-fry consomme for 21 years. Like many seaside families, he was originally a fisherman who spent his days drifting at sea with his fishing boat. But after his child was born, he re-learned his trade and returned to live on the island.
The cooler store opens in the evening (business hours 16:30-01:00), a tiny street-side storefront. The classic Coconut Milk Sake-ryang and Sugar Water Sake-ryang are available, in addition to other sugar water that can be made into fried ice style.
I ordered a stir-fried consomme, with basic ingredients such as green beans, red dates and taro. By the way, the local practice will customarily add condensed milk, so you can inform the owner in advance if you find it too sweet.
Soon a bowl of fried Qingzheliang was served up in a small mountain. The coconut milk is freshly squeezed on the day and has a strong flavor, and the fruit toppings are all fresh.
Full, flavorful and dense, the heat dissipates as a bowl of ching chong liang enters the belly on a slightly sultry evening.
Dongfang Walking Guide
Basho Fishing Harbor
When you're in Dongfang, you can't miss the Dongfang Basho Center Fishing Harbor, one of the three major fishing ports in Hainan.
Basho Harbor is located in the northwestern coast of Dongfang City, which is a class of national open ports. The port consists of old harbor area, new harbor area and fishing harbor area. Now there are 16 berths, and there are 9 berths above 10,000 tons, which is quite large in volume.
Fishing is very much depends on the time of the tide, when the tide is high, spread the net after the ebb tide to collect the net, more than four o'clock in the afternoon is a large number of fishing boats to return to the harbor, pick this time to come to the most lively (different seasons of the tide time is different, you can go to go to the time to inquire about it in advance).
A fishing boat moored in the harbor, just look at this scene is spectacular. Fishing boats are the means of transportation for the locals, and there are also people who buy rice, flour, food, oil and all sorts of necessities to board the boat, and the crew pulls a boat full of people and leaves.
But when I arrived early, the stalls are not too many, sporadic fishermen put the harvest of fish and shrimp in a small bamboo basket to sell.
Buying seafood can also be processed in the nearby seafood processing store, the processing fee is clearly marked, I photographed for your reference
Cheongshun market
If you ask the locals about the Northeast market, they will basically lead you to the Changshun market.
Hainan's endless sunshine has attracted many northeasterners to buy homes, but the stomach that carries around the hometown is hard to follow the customs and still misses the pancakes rolled with scallions and cabbage stewed with vermicelli that they grew up eating, and so there is a market for the northeasterners who dominate the market for both traders and customers.
Most of the vegetables here will indicate the place of origin, Shandong Zhangqiu onions, Harbin A city cabbage, Northeast green eggplant, Mudanjiang potatoes hit the Shandong tag, here can be irresistible taste of home.
There are many fruit stalls, with seasonal dragon fruit, passion fruit, sakura, and mango being common at each stall.
I paid attention to the price, watermelon 2 yuan 1 catty, banana 2.5 yuan 1 catty, Qiongzhong green orange 3 catty 10 yuan, the price is also quite beautiful, and bought here can be directly courier to home.
Basically, each stall will be written on the words of professional packing, national delivery, full 10 pounds can be shipped.
Fish Scale Island
In the evening, just go to Fish Scale Island to catch a sunset on the west coast. It's not far from downtown Dongfang and can be reached in about 10 minutes by taxi.
It was listed as one of the scenic spots in Hainan as early as the 40th year of Kangxi in the Qing Dynasty. It is the westernmost point of Hainan Island's landmass and the best place to see the evening sunset.
It is a rocky hill surrounded by the sea on three sides, and the white lighthouse is an important navigational landmark in the Beibu Gulf and the symbol of Dongfang City.
The Klein blue sea and the orange evening sunsets are the most classic seaside elements. And with the wide-open views of the sunset here, you can see the sun set directly in front of you.
The westerly winds from the sea are constant throughout the year, and the eighteen huge windmills towering not far from the beach on Fish Scale Island have also become a seaside scene.
In addition, there are quite a few interesting villages under Dongfang City, which I didn't have the time to visit, but I'll list them here first as well, so that you can make arrangements along the way if you're interested.
Gangmen Village
Gangmen Village is a small fishing village by the sea in Dongfang, so close to the sea that pushing the window to the sea is the daily routine here. In terms of style, it will also be more original. The fishermen drive their boats to the sea to catch fish every day, and then return to the shore to dry the fish is the daily life of the fishing village.
Photo @DevonSmallRoll's Ma-Ma
If you're interested in the original fishermen's life, you should be able to find a lot of surprises here. It's also the birthplace of the aforementioned lu mien, with Hong Kong Gate Fang Yi lu mien being a well-recognized local staple.
Photo @Nanxi Kengshuang
Baicha Village
Baicha Village is a Li village located in Jiangbian Township, Dongfang City. Boat-shaped houses are the characteristic dwellings of the Li ethnic group in Hainan. Shaped as their name suggests, the thatched houses look like an inverted ship.
There are 81 boat-shaped houses in Baicha Village, one of the most well-preserved natural villages in Hainan.
Walking into one of the last ancient villages of the Li ethnic group, a primitive and mysterious atmosphere comes over you. There is no commercialization here, only coconut trees and ancient houses growing all around. If you open the wings of your imagination, you can still substitute into the life of the Li people.
Oxianling
Previously, I only know that Guangxi has a high concentration of karst landscapes, but in fact, Hainanese people also have their own Guilin landscape: Oxianling. The landscape is undulating, the atmosphere is very bright, and there is a feeling of dreaming back to Guangxi.
Photo @JulyPinkBlue
Friends who love the outdoors have already set their sights on this piece of treasure, and there are still a lot of people who drive themselves to camp. A day's arrangement is already quite informative ~ in this city that knows how to be happy, let me lay flat in peace!
Transportation: Dongfang has a high-speed rail station, and you can get there by high-speed rail from Haikou in about 2h, or by high-speed rail from Sanya in 1h, and the frequency is very high.
Accommodation: there are not many high-star hotels in Dongfang, you can stay in Vienna, Bauhinia Hotel, Parkman Hotel, Four Seasons Aesthetics Hotel and so on.