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The history of Shanghai diet

Shanghai snacks were recorded in the Southern Song Dynasty. In the early Ming Dynasty, Shanghai became a famous city in the southeast, and its production became more and more exquisite. In the Qing Dynasty, with the increasing prosperity of Shanghai's commerce, various kinds of rice and flour snacks were more abundant in season. At the end of the Qing Dynasty, after Shanghai was listed as a foreign trade port, it successively absorbed the essence of local snacks, almost including the characteristics of major places in the country, and developed and improved it to form its own characteristics. Shanghai snacks are characterized by a wide variety of flavors, both north and south; Strict material selection and fine production; It should be seasonal and change with time; The supply is convenient and flexible.

Crab shell yellow

Crispy cakes with skin and stuffing are made by adding oil to fermented noodles. The cake is similar in color and shape to a cooked crab shell. The finished product is brownish yellow, crisp, loose and fragrant. In the early days of Shanghai, most of all tea houses and tiger stoves (boiled water franchise stores) had a vertical dryer and a frying pan stove, and they sold two snacks-crab shell yellow and fried steamed bread while cooking. Crab shell is yellow and crispy, and the fried steamed bread is fresh and tender, which is very popular among tea customers. In the late 1931s, specialty store, such as Huangjiasha, Dahuchun and Wuyuan, which sold these two varieties alone, became famous for a while.

jujube paste shortcake

is a kind of cooked pasta with crispy noodles as the skin and black jujube paste as the filling. Its golden color, small and exquisite, crispy skin, sweet and delicious stuffing are very popular among Hong Kong, Macao compatriots and Japanese tourists. In 1988, the second national cooking competition won the silver medal.

fried steamed buns

Shanghai calls steamed buns steamed buns, so fried steamed buns are actually fried steamed buns. Use semi-fermented bread stuffing, put it in a pan, fry it in oil, and spray water several times to cook it. Its bottom is golden yellow, hard and fragrant with crispness, the steamed bun is white, soft and loose, the meat stuffing is fresh and tender with a little marinade, and there is the fragrance of sesame or onion when chewing. It is better to eat hot out of the pot. Fried steamed bread was originally a variety of tea house and tiger stove (boiled water shop). The stuffing is mainly fresh pork with skin jelly. After 1931s, specialty store with raw fried steamed bread was introduced in Shanghai catering industry, and many varieties such as chicken and shrimp were added to the stuffing.

Steamed and mixed cold noodles

is a kind of pasta that is steamed and boiled, then cooled by cold air and mixed with seasoning. Cold noodles have always been a hot-selling variety in summer in Shanghai food market. Around 1937, the method of making noodles was to cook them and shower them with cold water. After 1949, the health department banned the sale of cold noodles because they were bathed with raw water. In 1952, Siruchun Dim Sum Restaurant adopted the method of steaming noodles first, then cooking them, and then cooling them with cold air, which was successful. Not only does it meet the hygiene requirements, but also the processed noodles are hard, tough and smooth, which is welcomed by our customers.

Yangchun noodles

are also called smooth noodles. Folk customs call October of the lunar calendar Xiaoyangchun, and Shanghai slang takes ten as Yangchun. In the past, this noodle sold for ten pence per bowl, so it was called Yangchun noodle. Noodles with scallion oil in kai yang, also known as noodles with seaweed and scallion oil. Stir-fried scallion oil and thoroughly cooked dried seaweed (Shanghainese called kai yang) with cooked noodles. The noodles are tough and smooth, the dried seaweed is soft and delicious, and the onion oil is fragrant and overflowing. After 1945, a vendor named Chen in the Chenghuang Temple used the daily method of his hometown in northern Jiangsu to cook onion oil for mixing noodles. The onion fragrance is rich and unique, and it is very popular and has been passed down to this day. Now it is a characteristic snack of lakeside snack shop.

Baiguo stuffing

Fermented dumpling

It is made of fruit stuffing, small dumpling wrapped with glutinous rice flour and boiled with fermented dumpling. The wine is rich and sweet, with glutinous dumplings and sweet stuffing.

lard 111 fruit

muffin

is made by mixing glutinous rice and japonica rice, grinding into powder, adding red beans and fruit materials, and steaming. Seasonal rice food for the old year and the new year. The cake is soft and sweet, waxy but not sticky, and the nuts have diverse tastes.

fried pork ribs

rice cakes

pork chops with small and thin rice cakes are cooked in oil. There are two ways to make this snack in Shanghai, namely Shuguang Hotel (formerly known as Xiao Changzhou, known as the king of ribs) and Xiandelai Dim Sum Restaurant. Both of them are famous for operating ribs rice cakes, but they have different methods of making, different tastes and different characteristics, and they were famous in Shanghai in the early 1931s. Rib rice cake is an economical and unique snack in Shanghai, with a history of more than 51 years. There are two famous ribs rice cakes in Shanghai-"Little Changzhou" and "Rarely Obtained". "Little Changzhou" pork ribs rice cake is made of pork spine from Changzhou and Wuxi. After pickling with soy sauce, it is put into an oil pan mixed with soy sauce, oil, sugar, minced onion and ginger, wine, etc., and taken out when the color is purple, the meat is fresh and tender, and the taste is strong. At the same time, after Songjiang rice is cooked, put it in a stone mortar and beat it repeatedly with a hammer. After being beaten until the rice has no whole grain, take it out, cut 21 pieces every 511 grams, wrap a small piece of blanched pork ribs in each piece, and then cook it in a sauce oil pan. When eating, sprinkle with spiced powder, which will have both the fragrance of pork ribs and the soft glutinous crisp of rice cakes, which is very delicious. The "fresh-obtained" pork ribs rice cake is made by mixing flour, water caltrop, spiced powder and eggs, soaking them on the surface of pork ribs and blanching them in oil. This kind of ribs is golden in color, crisp in surface and tender in meat. At the same time, add sweet noodle sauce to Songjiang rice, red soy sauce and ribs, and pour Chili sauce on it. The entrance glutinous rice is fragrant, slightly sweet and spicy, fresh and palatable. Shanghai Shuguang Restaurant's "Little Changzhou" ribs rice cakes and "Xian Lai Lai" dim sum shops have the most distinctive features.

Fresh meat cat ears

Traditional cat ears are made of cold water and flour, with diced chicken and diced meat as ingredients and soup to eat. The cat's ears in Qiaojiazha, Shanghai, are unique. They are made by rolling the dough by hand, wrapping it with meat stuffing or bean paste, and frying it in oil. They have a unique flavor.

bad snail

Shanghai's bad snail is a famous snack with special flavor. This kind of snack is made from a big, fat, fleshy longan snail produced in Tunxi, Anhui Province. After entering the store, it is raised with clear water for two days to make it spit out the sediment, and then it is put into a pot, and fennel and cinnamon are added to cook for a long time. Finally, the cooked snail is put on the aged fragrant grains, and the grains are made. This kind of bad snail is brown-gray, fresh and tender in meat, mellow in juice and delicious in mouth, which is very popular. This food is a famous specialty snack in Shanghai Wuweizhai Dim Sum Restaurant and Xiandelai Dim Sum Restaurant

Little Shaoxing Chicken Porridge

The chicken porridge operated by Little Shaoxing Chicken Porridge Restaurant is an authentic Shanghai flavor snack. The store was founded in 1947 by a Shaoxing native. Because the founder and the main operator are both from Shaoxing, a small Shaoxing people's world has been formed here, so people named it "Little Shaoxing Chicken Porridge Store". Shaoxing chicken porridge is a kind of snack cooked with chicken soup juice, accompanied by chicken and various seasonings. When eating chicken porridge, cut the cooked chicken into pieces 3 cm long and 1.6 cm wide, put it on a plate, put the chicken porridge into a bowl, add onion, minced ginger and chicken oil, and serve together. At this time, the chicken porridge is yellow with green, and the chicken is white and bright, which is pleasing to the eye and greatly increases the appetite. When tasting, the chicken porridge is sticky and smooth, fresh and delicious, and the chicken is tender and refreshing, rich in nutrition, and the more you eat, the more fragrant it becomes. This delicious food is operated in Shanghai Xiaoshaoxing Chicken Porridge Store.

Nanxiang steamed bread

Nanxiang steamed bread, also called Nanxiang steamed buns, is a traditional snack in nanxiang town, a suburb of Shanghai, with a history of more than 111 years. This product is famous for its thin skin, rich stuffing, heavy brine and delicious taste, and it is one of the flavor snacks welcomed by customers at home and abroad. The stuffing of Nanxiang steamed bread is made of sandwich leg meat, without adding onion and garlic, and only sprinkled with a little ginger, frozen skin, salt, soy sauce, sugar and water. The skin of steamed bread is made of unfermented refined flour, and 51 grams of flour can be wrapped in 8, 111 grams in a steamer. Steamed steamed buns are small and exquisite, shaped like pagodas, translucent and strong, crystal clear and yellow, and they are full of saliva when you bite a packet of soup. If you eat it with shredded ginger, balsamic vinegar and a bowl of shredded egg soup, it will taste better. The stuffing of Nanxiang steamed buns can also change with the seasons. Add shrimp in early summer and crab meat, crab roe and crab oil in autumn. Nanxiang steamed bread in Yuyuan Shopping Mall is one of the famous snacks in Yuyuan Shopping Mall.

Youyue Steamed Bread

Youyue Steamed Bread is a special snack made by ZaoShen Dacheng Dim Sum Shop, a century-old shop in Shanghai. The oily steamed bread in this shop draws on the strengths of many people: the steamed bread skin is made from Nanxiang steamed bread, rolled with unfermented fine powder, and the stuffing is made from Huaiyang fine soup packets. The meat stuffing is mixed with bone soup and mixed with seasonings made of onion, ginger and garlic. When frying, the technique of frying shortbread is similar to that of frying shortbread. The steamed bread made by such careful processing is small and exquisite in shape, golden in skin, beautiful in color, crisp in mouth, fresh and tender in meat, overflowing with soup, and fat but not greasy. After eating, the teeth and cheeks are fragrant, and the mouth is full of saliva. If it is eaten hot, it will have an endless aftertaste.

kai yang scallion noodles

kai yang scallion noodles are famous snacks in Shanghai. Kai yang is very particular about the method of making scallion oil noodles. First, it cuts scallion into inches and fries it in a warm oil pan (the scallion oil cooked in this way is dark red with yellow color and strong scallion fragrance, which can increase appetite). Then add onion oil to Kaiyang, which has been fried with vegetable oil and soaked in wine and sugar, to make onion oil. Cook the noodles, drain the soup, mix with onion oil, and get the onion oil noodles. This kind of noodles is bright in color, smooth and refreshing to eat, delicious in shrimp and fragrant in onion, rich in nutrition and very popular. Kaiyang scallion noodle is a special snack in Shanghai Hubin Dim Sum Restaurant, and it is also one of the famous snacks in Chenghuang Temple.

vegetarian buns

vegetarian buns are the special snacks of Shanghai Chunfeng Songyuelou vegetarian restaurant. This restaurant has a history of more than 71 years. It is a vegetarian restaurant that combines the flavors of Beijing, Jiangsu and Yangbang, and also has the local flavor of Shanghai. The vegetarian dishes in this store, such as assorted vegetables, fried mushrooms, Luohanzhai, crispy soup with mushrooms, fried crab powder and gluten noodles, are quite famous in Shanghai, especially the vegetarian dishes made in this store are well-known and very popular. Vegetarian bag is made of refined white flour as the skin, and the stuffing is made of chopped green vegetables, gluten, mushrooms, winter bamboo shoots and spiced dried tofu, and mixed with spices such as sesame oil and sugar. After the wrapped vegetarian dishes are steamed in a cage, the skin is white and soft, the stuffing is green and green, bright and pleasing to the eye. When the cage is opened, the room is full of fragrance, and the food is delicious and refreshing. If you eat more, you will never get tired of it. This snack can be tasted in the vegetarian restaurant of Chunfeng Songyuelou in Shanghai Yuyuan Shopping Mall.

Sha Yuan

Sha Yuan is one of the famous flavor spots in Shanghai Qiaojiazha Dim Sum Restaurant, which has a history of more than 71 years. According to legend, at the end of Qing Dynasty, there was an old lady named Lei in Sanpailou, Shanghai. In order to make the dumplings easy to store and carry, she pioneered the method of rolling white powder on the surface of cooked dumplings. Later generations named the dumplings as rolling sand balls in memory of her. The sand-grinding balls operated by Qiaojiazha Dim Sum Shop are made by cooking red beans in Dahongpao, Chongming County, grinding them into sand, and drying them into purple powder. Then, the glutinous rice dumplings with fresh meat, bean paste, sesame seeds and other fillings are cooked, drained and rolled with a layer of bean paste powder. This kind of dumpling is colorful and fragrant, has a strong red bean flavor when eaten hot, and is soft, waxy and refreshing, and easy to carry, which has always been popular with tourists.

fried in Shanghai Lane

When it comes to dim sum in Shanghai, people always think of the famous four donkey kong-fried dough sticks, big cakes, rice and soybean milk. But the stars have changed, and now these titles should give way to the other two great sages-Xiao Long and Fried. On the streets of Shanghai, you can easily see small cages and fried figures.

regarding the origin of xiaolong, I would like to transcribe the introduction on the website of guyiyuan that "Nanxiang xiaolong is famous at home and abroad, with a history of one hundred years." It was originally named "Nanxiang Big Meat Steamed Bread", then "Gu Yi Yuan Xiao Long", and now it is called "Nanxiang Xiao Long". Its fame has become an ancient garden, but it is little known. In the 11th year of Tongzhi in Qing Dynasty (AD 1871), Huang Mingxian, the owner of Shangri Huaxuan Cake Group Store in nanxiang town, switched to Nanxiang Big Steamed Bread and went to Guyiyuan to sell it every day, which was famous for its delicious taste and popularity. The bosses of the same trade came to Guyiyuan to sell big meat steamed bread, which affected Huang Mingxian's business and could not be patented by one person. So he adopted the method of "heavy stuffing and thin skin, changing the big into small ones" and selected refined white flour to roll it into thin skin. With lean meat as stuffing, instead of monosodium glutamate, the meat skin is cooked in chicken soup, frozen and mixed in, and fresh, and a small amount of finely ground sesame seeds are sprinkled to get its fragrance; According to different seasons, crab powder or Chun Zhu, shrimps and meat stuffing are also taken. Each steamed bread is folded with more than fourteen pieces, and ten pieces of one or two flour are made, which are translucent, small and exquisite. When you come out of the cage, you can take any one and put it in a small dish. When the skin is punctured, a dish full of juice will be the best product, which gradually forms the characteristics of thin skin, fresh juice, tender meat and rich stuffing, and becomes a delicious spot exclusively sold in the ancient garden, all of which are called "Nanxiang Xiaolong in the ancient garden". "There are also many snacks similar to Shanghai's steamed buns all over the country. The famous ones are Goubuli steamed buns in Tianjin, Jia's soup dumplings in Xi 'an and steamed buns in Kaifeng, Henan. But relatively speaking, Shanghai's steamed buns are among the best. Because of Shanghai's geographical location, its taste can be accepted by the north and south.

As for fried food, it seems that there is no way to test it, but I vaguely remember that when I was a child, there was a famous fried food shop on Haining Road, Sichuan Road. At that time, his price list said fried food in Danyang (Danyang is located within the boundary of Jiangsu Province, about an hour away from Nanjing). As for whether Danyang is the origin of fried food, I am not sure. To do a good job of frying, we must achieve three elements: crisp and golden bottom, soft skin, and biting the meat with a sauce flavor.

It seems that the steamed bun and the fried bun are very similar, but they are not. Looking at snack bars in Shanghai, there are few shops that can cook the steamed bun and the fried bun well at the same time. Therefore, many stores are also very self-aware. Basically, it is rare to see a snack bar that sells both kinds of snacks. Because if you are not careful, it will be made into fried dumplings, or steamed and fried buns. The first is noodles. Generally, you don't need to send the noodles of the small cage, because when it is thin and steamed, it will open pores, which will affect the appearance of the small cage and the soup, and there is no room for some difference. On the contrary, the skin fried raw is very particular. Generally, it takes an experienced master to master the time for making dough. Generally speaking, it is two hours. It can't be too early or too late. If it's too early, the skin is not soft and hard. When you eat it late, you will have the sour taste produced during fermentation. Although we will put vinegar when eating raw fried food, the sour taste is different. The second is meat. It is possible that some diners think that the method of making a small cage and frying it raw is actually different, and the stuffing is still the same. Actually, the biggest difference is that the stuffing in the small cage is fresh, the soup is thick, and some gravy smells. Besides, the steamed soup in the small cage can't penetrate into the skin, so the soup should be wrapped in a bag, and the fragrance of the soup will remain in the meat, and it will slowly seep out when it goes down. The stuffing in the raw frying will have a delicious sauce, because the skin in the raw frying is smaller and the cage is a little thick.

From 1931s: Red House Western Restaurant

Red House is the representative of "old" Shanghai Western Restaurant, which is said to be the first western restaurant in Shanghai! Foreigners who used to live in Shanghai all know that many "petty bourgeoisie" with grandfathers and grandmothers have become attached to western food here. Very suitable for the nostalgic older generation.