When it comes to "Tan's Cuisine", many people may have heard of it, but not many have actually tasted it.

First of all, it is not as widespread as ordinary cuisines. Except for Beijing Hotel, several restaurants specializing in "Tan cuisine" have only become famous in the past year or two. Secondly, due to many of its own factors, especially the price,

It's so expensive that ordinary people don't dare to care.

Regarding "Tan Cuisine", some people in the catering industry published an argument in this newspaper a few years ago, predicting that "Beijing cuisine will be on the rise in the next one or two years", which aroused the excitement of some restaurants operating Beijing cuisine.

What does Beijing cuisine include?

Of course, the most popular imperial cuisine is the "Full Banquet of Manchu and Han Dynasties", which also includes private government dishes such as "Duanjia Cuisine", "Renjia Cuisine" and "Tanjia Cuisine", traditional time-honored dishes such as "Quanjude" and "Donglaishun", and "Zhaimen Cuisine".

"" and other categories represented by common people's home-cooked dishes and Beijing-style snacks.

Among them, "Tan's Cuisine" can be said to be one of the typical representatives of high-end dishes in Beijing cuisine that has been handed down to this day.

"Tan's cuisine" originated from the family of Tan Zongjun, an official in the late Qing Dynasty. It was well-known in the capital as a family dish at that time. It became even more famous when it entered the society in the 1930s and 1940s.

In the early years, Beijing Hotel's "Tan's Cuisine" served as a state banquet for the older generation of national leaders to receive and entertain important foreign visitors. Its historical and political origins made it famous and high-status among the people. Beijing Hotel has also become a delicacy for diners.

The first choice of "Tan's Cuisine".

In recent years, newcomers include Jintang Restaurant, Tanfu Restaurant, Fushan Palace, Tan Shicai, etc.

According to the Palace Manager of "Fushan" who has done some research on "Tan Family Cuisine", there are four major principles in the production of "Tan Family Cuisine". The first is the careful selection of ingredients, such as abalone, bird's nest, shark's fin, fish lip,

Fish maw, skirt, shellfish, etc., especially seafood dishes.

The second is to prepare the ingredients well and pay attention to the original flavor. Sichuan peppercorns, pepper and other spices are rarely added to enhance the flavor. When stewing, the soup and juice are not added, and the original flavor of the raw materials is eaten.

The third thing is that the heat is sufficient. Most of the "Tan's Cuisine" dishes rely on a good pot of soup, which is the basis for making a good "Tan's Cuisine" - thick sauce.

Therefore, "Fushan" has a dedicated soup cook who starts simmering the soup for the next day from midnight every day. The 12-hour heat must be strictly controlled. When the soup is used up, the dishes will no longer be cooked.

The fourth is to cook it slowly and carefully to pursue the mellow and soft texture of the dishes.

Very few quick and simple cooking techniques such as stir-frying are used in other cuisines. The cooking methods of relying on fire, simmering, roasting, braising, stewing, grilling and steaming are basically used.

Not only does it take a long time to make the soup, but the ingredients are also carefully selected. Not to mention that the process of raising and simmering high-end ingredients such as bird's nest, shark's fin, and abalone has its own set of rules. Common ingredients such as chicken for making soup must use free-range chickens.

, remove the bones from the fish and cut into strips, use only a few pieces of cabbage core for cabbage, and choose a thin layer close to the rind of winter melon.

In short, the word "fine" is reflected everywhere, so if you want to eat "Tan's cuisine", it is best to make a reservation in advance and leave enough time for the chef to prepare ingredients and make the food. Otherwise, the store may not be able to take the business, because "Tan's cuisine"

"The most taboo thing is fooling around.

Since it comes from a family of officials, the way of eating "Tan's cuisine" is definitely not as casual as ordinary people's meals. First of all, it is elegant and simple in the dining environment, unlike the bustle and bustle of ordinary restaurants; secondly, it pays attention to the food and beautiful utensils, and most of them

They all adopt a separate meal system, especially for high-end dishes. After a meal, each person will be filled with cups, saucers, pots and various sets of tableware.

How much does it cost to eat "Tan's cuisine"?

While the exquisiteness of raw materials, production techniques and eating methods provide diners with an extraordinary experience, "Tan Cuisine" also limits its audience due to its unpopular price.

And - take Fushan Gongfu Tan Shi Cuisine, which has been open for three and a half months and is located by the Guanghua Bridge on the Third Ring Road, as an example. The "Tan Cuisine" they operate is divided into two categories: traditional Tan Cuisine and new Tan Cuisine.

The former is cooked strictly according to the old recipes of "Tan Family Cuisine". Most of them are representative classic dishes. The prices and ingredients are high-end and must be reserved by customers in advance.

The most superior braised shark's fin is made from precious yellow-fleshed fins. The fins are very meaty and meaty. They are made after 2 to 3 hours of hair-raising and 6 hours of simmering. The price is between 7,000 and 8,000 yuan.

Between yuan; clear soup swallow dish is also a traditional famous dish of "Tanjia Cuisine", the price is two to three hundred yuan per person; others such as white braised bird's nest are about 8,000 yuan, and abalone in oyster sauce is about 480 yuan each... Obviously,

These are not within the acceptable range of ordinary people.

However, the new style of Tan's cuisine is a series of dishes that "Fushan" combines tradition and innovation based on the purpose of "Tan's cuisine".

It absorbs some low-cost raw materials and uses the "thick sauce" method that most represents the production level of "Tanjia Cuisine". Although it is cooked completely according to the traditional production process, the price is much lower.

For example, tofu is originally an ingredient not used in old recipes, but the canned braised tofu made using traditional methods has inherited the style of "Tanjia Cuisine" and has been recognized by food experts; the braised cabbage with chestnuts and three delicacies are included in the braised dishes.

Grilled fish belly is also a new "Tan family dish" favored by diners.