I remember when I was a child, I went out once and was lucky enough to eat roast chicken on the train.
On the crowded train, my mother and I looked after the luggage, and my father bought a roast chicken wrapped in oil paper. Father tore off a big chicken leg and handed it to me. The soup condensed into aspic hung on it and I took a bite. Crisp and tender, the mellow oil lingers in your mouth. I still can't forget that smell.
There are four kinds of roast chicken on the railway, which are well-known, namely Dezhou Braised Chicken, Daokou Roasted Chicken, Goubangzi Smoked Chicken and Fuliji Roasted Chicken, and are known as the "four famous chickens" in China. For a long time, Taiwan Province can't remember where the roast chicken was when he was a child. )
They have subtle resonance with trains and railway lines. Passengers get unprecedented "satisfaction" from oil chicken, and roast chicken is also famous all over the world with the development of railway.
The "four famous chickens in China" are closely related to the railway.
Dezhou, Shandong Province is connected with Jinpu Railway (now beijing-shanghai railway) and Shide Railway (Shijiazhuang-Dezhou), and Goubangzi, Jinzhou, Liaoning Province is located at the intersection of shenshan railway (Shenyang-Shanhaiguan) and Gouhai Railway (Goubangzi-Haicheng). Anhui Fuliji is an important hub of beijing-shanghai railway. The crossing in Anyang, Henan Province connects Beijing-Guangzhou Railway and Daoqing Railway (crossing-Qinghua), both of which are traffic intersections of railway lines.
More than ten hours' journey, there are almost no places to eat before and after stations such as Dezhou, Daokou, Goubangzi and Fuliji. Roast chicken is rich in flavor and convenient to carry, and it has become the most popular choice in railway cuisine.
Take Texas as an example. When the train enters the Texas station, you can see many vendors pushing carts with baskets and running with the train. When the train stopped, vendors skillfully opened the windows (at first, the windows of green leather cars could be opened from the outside), carrying baskets or shouting roast chicken.
The window was crowded with people, looking straight out of the window with tickets in their hands, for fear that they could not grab a roast chicken.
At that time, eating a roast chicken on a green leather car was a status symbol. 1990, when the average monthly salary is 178 yuan, a roast chicken costs 10 yuan. Eating roast chicken is basically the same as "showing off wealth"
Passengers will casually glance at you and watch you open the oily paper bag soaked in chicken oil soup layer by layer. The strong smell of meat passed through the crowded carriages, and people who didn't buy roast chicken tried to stir up their noses just to smell more roast chicken.
The best way to eat roast chicken is to tear it. Tear off a greasy piece of chicken with your bare hands and send it to your mouth for chewing. At this time, it is served with a mouthful of white wine, which is spicy and exciting. It will make a "ha" sound when drinking. Listen carefully and you can hear the child next door swallowing saliva. No, I am greedy! )
0 1 Dezhou braised chicken
In terms of popularity, Shandong Dezhou braised chicken is the first of the "four famous chickens".
Braised chicken should be fried first, then marinated. The word "baked" is mainly cooked. A well-paid braised chicken in Texas takes 6-8 hours to simmer.
Texas braised chicken in place, brown in color. With a light touch, the flesh and blood are separated, and even the bones are crisp, making it more convenient to eat. When taking a photo with a drumstick on the stage, the bone of a drumstick was accidentally broken. (I was so scared that I grabbed it with my hand and stuffed it into my mouth.)
Take a bite of braised chicken, the skin is tender and oily, and press it with the tip of your tongue, and the chicken will be broken, and the salty taste will be exposed. It is so delicious that people tremble with joy.
Braised chicken tastes slightly salty. Take a sip of cold beer to dilute the salty taste in your mouth and smack your mouth. Before your brain can react, your hand has reached out to the braised chicken.
No wonder Mr. Lao She wrote in "Coming a Thousand Miles", "When you get to Texas ... Mr. Wang makes a bloody way and goes straight to roast chicken ... How can he be a man without eating roast chicken?" (I have a picture in my head)
02 Mi Fu Li Ji roast chicken
Anhui Fuliji roast chicken is developed from Dezhou braised chicken, which tastes and feels alike.
In terms of size, it is also a roast chicken, and the size of Fuliji roast chicken is much smaller than that of Daokou roast chicken. There is no rough feeling of crossing the roast chicken, and it is a bit more refined.
Fuliji roast chicken is fried first and then marinated. Different from braised chicken, it is necessary to pour a layer of syrup before frying, and then fry it in an oil pan at 80 to 90 degrees until it is yellow-red. Finally, you can cook for 2-3 hours.
The roast chicken made in this way, the chicken skin is tender and tender, and the flesh and blood are separated with a gentle shake. The stew time is short, and the chicken is incredibly tender, delicious and rotten, so there is no silk left. Don't worry about breaking bones with too heavy hands. Delicious and mellow chicken is a little less salty and a little more sweet than braised chicken. I really can't stop taking a bite.
03 three goubangzi smoked chicken
Goubangzi is located in Jinzhou City, Liaoning Province, where smoked chicken has a history of one hundred years since the 25th year of Guangxu (1899).
The biggest difference between smoked chicken and other "famous chickens" is that there is a "smoked" step after cooking. As soon as the package was opened, a strong smoky smell came out. Taiwan Province smelled it carefully. Besides the aroma of wood, it smelled of dead firewood. (the kind of firewood used in earth-burning stoves)
After consulting the information, it is known that Goubangzi smoked chicken should be stewed and smoked while it is hot. Brush a layer of oil, put it in a large pot with a leaky spoon, add sugar to the bottom of the pot, cover tightly and smoke the chicken twice.
Smoked chicken has a beautiful purple color. Pick up a big chicken leg, the entrance is slightly burnt, the aftertaste is slightly sweet, the taste is tender and smooth, and even the meat has the taste of smoked Bordeaux.
Steam for a few minutes before tearing. The chicken skin becomes firm and elastic, and the meat is delicate. The entrance is slightly salty, but the aroma is rich. The more you chew, the more fragrant you are, and every bite is enjoyable. The editorial department generally thinks that smoked chicken is the best. )
04 daokou red-cooked chicken
Daokou roast chicken comes from Daokou Town, hua county, Anyang, Henan, which is known as the hometown of roast chicken.
The roast chicken at Daokou, which was bought in Taiwan Province, still retains the package wrapped in oil paper and knotted with straw rope. When you open the bag, you can smell a rich oil fragrance, and the bright yellow chicken skin seems to say, "Come and eat me!" " "I can't help but want to eat before taking pictures. (Taiwan Province found that the roast chicken at Daokou was really big, the largest of the four chickens. )
The secret of making Daokou roast chicken lies in honey water and broth. Authentic Daokou roast chicken should be fried with clear oil and coated with honey water before frying chicken. The proportion of honey water is also very particular, with water accounting for 60% and honey accounting for 40%. Honey water can keep the chicken skin crisp, tender and tough, and at the same time it can have a beautiful golden color.
Put the fried chicken into the soup stock, add 8 kinds of spices, such as tangerine peel, cardamom, Amomum villosum and angelica dahurica, and simmer for 4 hours.
The braised chicken turns beautiful red and yellow, and each piece of meat absorbs the flavor of spices, forming a special flavor, which is not available in other roast chicken.
Tear off a piece of meat and take a bite. The chicken skin has no extra oil, and it is light and tough. Chicken is compact, salty and fragrant, mixed with spices, and even tastes like salted chicken. (Daokou roast chicken is surprisingly spicy. If you can't accept the spicy taste, try it carefully ~)
05 Zan Shangrao Chicken Leg
Speaking of chickens on the train, a friend in Taiwan Province, Taiwan Province proudly told me that "there are Texan braised chickens in the north and Shangrao drumsticks in the south". Like the "four famous chickens", the chicken legs in Shangrao, Jiangxi are all railway delicacies that can only be bought at Shangrao Station.
The production process of Shangrao chicken leg is extremely complicated, including marinating, baking, seasoning, screening and many other links, which generally takes more than 36 hours to complete.
The little friend in the editorial department said that every time I passed Shangrao Station when I was in college, I would see chicken legs on the platform and never dared to try. Once I was really hungry, I went to the platform to buy one to eat, tore it open and took a bite, and my eyes lit up in an instant. This chicken leg is delicious (literally), delicious and chewy, salty and spicy. The more you eat, the more you want to eat
After that, every time I pass by Shangrao by train, I will set the alarm clock in advance, for fear that I accidentally fell asleep and didn't buy Shangrao chicken legs.
When I was a child, every stop of the train was an opportunity to enjoy the exotic scenery.
Nowadays, with more and more standardized station management and more and more kinds of convenience foods, those local products that are famous for railways gradually disappear in our field of vision, but those delicious memories will never disappear.
What do you like to eat on the train? What's your favorite railway food? Tell Taiwan Province in the comments section!
Wen | A Tuan
Figure | Zhong Heng
Part of the source: Ying Gallery
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