The lingering fear of the last wave of epidemic has gradually disappeared from the six districts of the city. People can't stay at home all the time It's time to go out for a walk.

Don't run, look for an alley. The old tree house can provide shade, bite a popsicle, open a bottle of Arctic Ocean, and listen to gossip in front of Lao Wang Xie Tang to find a little popularity. It's more interesting than shopping.

Tuchong creativity

In particular, many hutongs in Beijing sound very attractive.

Is the fried beans in Fried Bean Hutong delicious? Will a street in Mutton Hutong be full of instant-boiled mutton? I came up with a amorous feelings painting.

Beijingers always name place names simply and directly, and say whatever they want. There is no shortage of literati in the ancient capital for thousands of years, but the people have the right to place names. Everyone knows that there is Miaoying Temple, but everyone still calls it Baita Temple, and the common name will always work.

Including naming Hutong after delicious food-they wrote down all the favorite snacks in the city on the map, telling you not to miss so many delicious foods when you come to Beijing.

First of all, the well-deserved first is mutton-

In a Beijing, there used to be five mutton hutongs, distributed all over the country, with the same name and surname.

As far as Beijing people's obsession with sheep is concerned, this is very reasonable. They eat everything except wool.

Slice the upper brain meat, roast it on a baking tray, rinse the pot with hind legs, and make mutton with rosy cheeks and fat ribs. When sheep scorpion hot pot eats delicious food, he pulls out noodles, and his stomach is as crisp as fresh cucumber. He fried the sheep's tail with sesame bean curd, boiled the sheep's bones with salt water, and sliced the sheep's head to send wine. Vendors selling sheep's head meat have to drill horns.

Don't destroy anything. With such a large demand, so many processes and so few mutton hutongs, it is really impossible for Beijingers to eat so much.

One of the most famous is Mutton Hutong near Fuchengmen-in Mr. Lao She's time, there were many businesses to slaughter live sheep with broadswords in Xisipailou area. However, later its landmark buildings were the Geological Auditorium, the later Gem Company and Xisi Steamed Bun Shop.

Near Dongdan, there used to be a mutton hutong, which was later renamed Yeung Yi Hutong and was once famous for its delicious food.

However, its true identity is the first stop for Japanese cuisine to come to Beijing!

This is not an ancient overflowing hutong. In the past, overflowing hutongs ran east and west.

Voice of Beijing people

In the 1920s, it became one of the concentrated places of Japanese cuisine in Beijing. There was once a "flagship store" with both catering and accommodation functions, named Changchun Pavilion, which was the highest-standard Japanese cuisine at that time.

In front of War of Resistance against Japanese Aggression, there were many Japanese people near Dongdan archway and Chongwenmen, and the concentration of Japanese food near here was no less than today's Liangmaqiao Lantern Street, where Hu Shi and Akutagawa Ryunosuke had their first Japanese food in Beijing.

Until liberation, Japanese cuisine in Beijing still existed before the Cultural Revolution, and 1983 Friendship Hotel's "cutting boiled white clouds" continued this crop. It has been a hundred years since the history of Beijingers eating Japanese food began in Mutton Hutong.

Lu Xinyi and others

There is probably only one mutton alley selling mutton today. How many articles is this one better than? It's true, just like it's true-

In the Ming Dynasty, it was also called Mutton Hutong, which was later renamed Raw Meat Hutong. In contrast, there is a cooked meat alley next to it. They are today's Liu Shou Hutong and niujie Hutong, both of which are paradise for meat eaters!

Hongji snack bar, put a bag of fluffy toothpick meat, and don't forget to wait for a while before taking a bite. Remember the deli next door, buy sauce beef and some original soup to cook noodles from the owner; Lian Kexuan, the captain of the pork chop suspected of jubaoyuan; Dashuntang is a halal dish recognized by neighbors for decades. Turpan is the first Xinjiang restaurant in Beijing ... it's just cooked. Next to the beef and mutton market, I want to roast it. Why not?

Even if this is the only "Mutton Hutong" in Beijing, it is enough.

Public comment: Small packets of paper love to eat fish.

Besides mutton, another thing that Beijingers like to eat is sauce-there is a alley of sauce landlords in Yonghe Palace, a alley of sauce houses in the west, and there are big sauce alleys and small sauce alleys in Gangwa City.

They not only really like the sauce, but also elevate it to a lofty position:

No matter what "sauce XX" is called, the protagonist is definitely not the main ingredient behind, but the sauce.

Eating sauced beef in Beijing must be the real "sauce" beef. There must be small pieces of soy beans in the soft and rotten cooked meat, not just stewed soy sauce, clear sauce and yellow sauce, which are treated in different ways.

Another example is Tianfu's sauce elbow, the skin is purple and black, and it is stewed, but it has no octagonal flavor, even too salty (full brother's mouth is heavy). This is the flavor of the sauce and the original flavor of the meat.

Tianfu Official Weibo

And pickles. Jiang Fanghu used to produce pickles.

Although it is called pickles today, in Beijing, the grade of pickles is higher than that of pickles pickled with salt alone. There are no pickles in the Qing palace, but there are many pickles, such as king melon, radish, eggplant and nectar, carrots, peas, cucumbers and hazelnuts. These pickles are fried with lean diced pork and yellow sauce. They are nicknamed the "four sauces" of the court.

China famous dishes Ji

In Beijing, except mutton and sauce, anything with the same name as Hu is essential.

For example, Duofu Lane was originally called Tofu Lane, and there is a Tofu Pool Hutong in the north of the Bell Tower. Beijingers love tofu. Kunyu Pavilion smells like tofu, and Jinan Pavilion and Muslim Pavilion smell like tofu. The following drinks include tofu mixed with onion and tofu mixed with tofu, as well as pot-cooked tofu, Wang Zhihe stinky tofu, and fried steamed bread with sesame oil and chopped green onion, which is unique in the world.

Chinese food culture

It is worth mentioning that it is the simplest one, and it can still be eaten today, but it is rarely heard of as chicken-sliced tofu: in fact, it is an extremely fresh and tender southern tofu, which is put on a plate, sprinkled with salt and sesame oil, and eaten while mixing, and the tofu is broken, just like chicken feet.

Today, I went to Baoruimen to nail meat pie or Warwick meat pie and asked for a plate of onion tofu. I came up with this. It looks silly at first glance, but it's actually very reliable.

Public comment: Ordinary world _ 1953

There is also the North Officialdom Hutong, formerly called Enema Hutong. A self-run hutong sells fried enemas. How many people do you want to eat it? Jiu Shao Hutong is in the south of it, which used to be called shochu Hutong. There is a wine shop handed down from Guanglu Temple in the Ming Dynasty, which makes fried enema wine, which is also quite good.

Dongjiaomin Lane used to be Dongjiang Rice Lane, which monopolized glutinous rice, red dates, zongzi and rice cakes. Without it, it would snowball in Aiwowo.

Manma kitchen

The hutong near Zhao Road no longer exists. In the past, it was called Fried Ghost Hutong. There are more fried ghosts in Beijing than fried dough sticks, as well as twisted dough sticks, sweet oil ghosts and so on. Maybe fried oil cakes are also counted. People all over the city eat this. It can be served with bean noodles, tea, soybean milk, bean juice, red bean porridge and beans, but sesame oil ghosts are iron partners.

Chang Ying Kaiyizhai is still rich in fried food, but most of the "oil ghosts" in old Beijing have disappeared.

Some hutongs are also named after eating, but that kind of food has disappeared or become rare, and the area has lost its original function. Like Fried Rice Hutong and Fried Noodles Hutong-

Nowadays, fried rice is more common in Mongolian restaurants. When paired with a large pot of milk tea and a small bowl of yogurt, it is not so daily food. If it weren't for the popularity of fried noodles in the past two years, many children didn't know that the "one bite of fried noodles and a handful of snow" to resist US aggression and aid Korea ate this, and they still ate Shanghai fried noodles and Zhajiang Noodles. It has long since faded out of people's lives, and naturally it is no longer sold in hutongs.

Every fragrant beard with the same name is a trace of Beijing people who once lived like this. In that era when there were no comments, no online celebrities or even the Internet, this was a food map woven by people here for the world.

Nowadays, the meaning of the food map of the name of Beijing Hutong changes with the change of the city.

Fangzhuanchang Hutong has become synonymous with the slag river surface. Everyone knows how to drink the noodles in Daxing Hutong. They didn't sell stewed doorframes in the past, but now they are free to choose.

Face tea in Daxing Hutong

The only thing that hasn't changed is that people in this city are still chasing the blood of food and rushing around in every alley.

Running water does not strive for the first place, but it is endless. This kind of Beijing will not be without food.

The pictures in this article are partly from the Internet.

References:

Wu Yunyun. A preliminary study of Beijing restaurants in the early Republic of China (1912-1927) [d]. Zhejiang Gongshang University, 20 19.5.

[2] Sun Xiaoyan. Japanese food is the capital of fire. China foreign service 1996(04):6- 10.

3 Wang Yuebo. Yue chi yue le [OL]. Ting Yun app, 2020-202 1.

[4] Liang Shiqiu. Sesame oil sticks [m]. Essays on Elegant Rooms (up and down), Tianjin, Tianjin Education Press, June 2006.

Author -VJ

Edit -VJ

Photography-Fu Tao Editorial Department

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