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The history and culture of Luoding wrinkled fish curd

"Luoding Fish Fu" is a long-standing and famous delicacy in Lingnan. Its main raw materials are local fresh mud carp meat and egg white from Luoding, which are fried with pure peanuts. Because the outer skin is thin and wrinkled like gauze, it is also called "wrinkled fish tofu". Because it was founded in Luoding, Guangdong and is a special flavor food of Luoding, it is called "Luoding Wrinkled Fish Curd". Luoding wrinkled fish tofu is a local specialty with a long history, unique flavor and obvious regional characteristics.

According to historical records, Luoding's "wrinkled fish tofu" originated during the Dade period of the Yuan Dynasty. During the Qianlong period of the Qing Dynasty, the craftsmanship gradually matured and became popular in the market, becoming well-known in southern Guangdong. After more than 700 years of continuous experimentation and innovation, "Wrinkled Fish Curd" has become a famous dish with local characteristics in Luoding. Because Luoding wrinkled fish tofu is shaped like a ball, which means reunion and happiness, and the pronunciation of "fish tofu" is consistent with "get richer", the color of the product is bright yellow on the outside and silvery white on the inside, so as to entertain guests. Guests are a symbol of attracting wealth and getting richer. Therefore, when holding weddings, births, housewarming, birthdays and other festive events and banquets during traditional festivals, people often use it as a must-have final dish at banquets to pray for family reunion and happiness. Many restaurants (including some in the Pearl River Delta, Hong Kong and Macao) also use it as a signature dish recommended to customers. It is famous for its crystal clear, thin and wrinkled skin, gauze-like appearance; sweet and tender taste, crispy on the outside and soft on the inside, refreshing and tough. The products sell well in Guangdong, Qiong, Guangxi, Hong Kong, Macao, Taiwan and other provinces and regions. In 1986, Hu Yaobang, then general secretary of the Central Committee of the Communist Party of China, tasted Luoding's "wrinkled fish tofu" when he inspected Luoding and spoke highly of it as "sweet, fragrant, soft and smooth, comparable to delicacies from mountains and seas." Since then, "Luoding Wrinkled Fish Curd" has been listed on the intangible cultural heritage protection list of Luoding City, Guangdong Province for protection. On February 24, 2010, Luoding wrinkled fish tofu was included in the national geographical indication product protection. According to legend, during the Qianlong period of the Qing Dynasty, Brother Long and Sister Long of Shuanglong Village in Luoding depended on each other. They worked hard to farm and struggled to maintain their lives. However, they both made good food and found joy in the hardships. Even though they were poor, they were very popular. If anyone in the village needed help, they would go to help without saying a word. Moreover, the kind-hearted Long Mei worships Guanyin Bodhisattva every day for more than ten years without interruption, worshiping the Buddha sincerely.

Finally it’s the 28th of the New Year again, and the New Year is almost here. Brother Long and Sister Long were in dire straits, and they were both worried about the Chinese New Year. How do you celebrate the New Year when you are short of money, food, and meat? What should I do if I have to entertain relatives after the New Year?

At night, Brother Long dreamed that Jigong was cooking on the cliff. He held the fish in his hand as if he were playing a trick. In the blink of an eye, pellets kept flying out of his hand. , flying into the pot, and the curling smoke carries bursts of fragrance. Brother Long thought, Jigong is making delicious food. Brother Long was just about to see what happened when a dog barked and woke him up from his sweet dream. Early the next morning, Brother Long told Sister Long about this dream. Sister Long, who was talented and intelligent, said without thinking: "This is a good dish" and told Brother Long to make this dish. nodded.

Shuanglong Village is a beautiful mountain village. The clouds and mist rise in the early morning, creating a beautiful natural scenery. It is one of the eight scenic spots in Luoding. Brother Long, who was hurrying on his way with his fishing gear, stepped through the morning fog. After a while, he arrived at the fishing bay not far from Shuanglong Village. Yuzi Bay was actually called Yuzi Bay. People found it troublesome and simply omitted the word "子". Over time, Yuzi Bay was called Yuzi Bay.

Yuwan is not far from the Sanyuan Pagoda and the big step opposite the tower where beans are washed and made into black bean paste. The turbulent river water carried some of the bean dregs, and when it arrived at the fishing bay, it was like a gentle sheep. Under the breeze, there were only the slightest ripples on the river surface, and the bean dregs settled on the bottom of the river. The fishing bay became a natural harbor for small fish to live, and the fish were plentiful and fat. , no wonder people call it "Fishing Bay".

In the evening when the sky is full of red clouds, there will be more people fishing in the fishing bay. The river, fishermen, boats and fishing nets being spread out form a beautiful picture of "fishing songs at night".

Brother Long didn’t have a boat, so he swam to the protruding rocks in the river and spread his fishing net wherever there were fish. The fish that had no time to escape were caught in the net. Repeatedly, we caught something every time, mostly dace, and the fish bucket was full.

Brother Long returned home happily. Long Mei was very happy to see the lively little fish. Long Mei washes the fish, and Long Ge removes the flesh from the fresh dace, removes the bones and skin, removes the meat, then chops it into minced meat, adds egg white, pink heart, salt, water and other seasonings, and stirs it repeatedly until it becomes a fish with a certain elasticity. Then, like Jigong did, pinch the isinglass in the palm of your hand, press the isinglass to squeeze out pellets from the tiger's mouth, then use a spoon to remove the pure peanut oil from the oil pan, fry over slow fire until golden brown, then pick it up, take a closer look at this The translucent fish balls are as thin as gauze and shaped like golden balls. Brother Long and Sister Long tried a fragrant "fish ball", which was sweet and crispy in the mouth, soft and slightly tough. Neighbors smelled the aroma and came to Long Ge and Long Mei's house to find out what was going on. When they tried the food, they all said three words in unison: "Good stuff." At this time, Long Ge and Long Mei boiled the golden fish curd in water for a while, and then added it with green vegetables. The taste is better, sweet, tender and smooth, which is wonderful.

Long Ge and Long Mei were so excited that they thought this was the best fish food, so they named the fish balls "Wrinkled Fish Fu" and processed a certain amount of "Wrinkled Fish Fu" every day. , took it to the Wei Town in Luoding Prefecture and made a certain amount of money, and no longer had to worry about New Year expenses.

A few years later, the sales of "Wrinkled Fish Curd" became more and more popular in the city. It is one of the traditional dishes necessary for banquets and has become famous all over the world.