Dongpo pork is the specialty of many Chinese restaurants in Taipei. What is the origin of this dish? What's the relationship with Dongpo? According to the textual research of Mr. Huang Qifang, Liang Zhangju, a Qing Dynasty man, said in Dongpo Meat: "The name of Dongpo Meat in today's food means rotten cook the meat. He also quoted Dongpo's poem about eating pork: "Huangzhou good pork, the price is like dirt." The rich refuse to eat, and the poor can't cook. Fire slowly and burn less water. When the fire is full, he will be beautiful. Get up and play a bowl every day, so full that you are heartless. People think that the name "Dongpo Meat" comes from this. In addition, Su Hua in the Qing Dynasty also said: "Today, people cut off large pieces of fat dolphins and cook them to rot, which is called Dongpo meat." Liang and Zhang were born in Jiaqing and Tongzhi years of Qing Dynasty (1796- 1874). Therefore, "Dongpo Meat" was already a well-known dish among literati at that time.
In fact, Dongpo has become the most loved person for thousands of years. Personally, I always think that a person who is completely out of touch with human fireworks is inevitably daunting, abrupt, self-deprecating and boring.
Dongpo has concentrated a large number of works on drinking and eating, and many people regard it as the theme of academic papers. This paper only briefly expounds his works during his relegation (there were one or two works during his foreign service) and shares them with you.
Let's start with drinking.
The so-called "drinking" of the ancients mostly refers to "drinking". After the Tang Dynasty, they sometimes referred to "drinking tea". I only mean "wine" here
Dongpo can't drink well, but he loves to drink. Drinking: "Although I don't drink much, I can't live without this gentleman if I want to relax with a lamp every day." Inscription after the poem: "My teenager got drunk at the sight of the wine lamp, and now he can get three banana leaves. "Banana leaf" is a shallow and small cup, and three banana leaves are three small cups and three small plates, which is about 10 cc. Huang Tingjian even said doubtfully, "Dongpo was drunk in China after drinking three banana leaves. From this point of view, Dongpo's shallow drinking is recognized by friends and friends. After "Zhudong Gaozi Biography", it said: "There is nothing in the world that can't be drunk, and the next person does nothing. ..... the best drink in the world, and no one gives it. Dongpo's inedible and delicious temperament really makes us have an unspeakable interest in reading. In On Drinking, he mentioned that official wine is "disgusting" and homemade wine is "bitter to swallow", but he couldn't help but sigh: "No one knows what the poor do. After reading this, it is amazing that we don't feel bitter, but feel humorous. Then he said, "Sweet, sour and bitter, all of a sudden. "What's the concern? As long as it makes me feel drunk. At this thought, fortunately, the homemade wine is not good to drink, but the guests are uncomfortable to drink; But what do I care if the guests are uncomfortable? Dongpo's cutest humor and wit are all revealed in such words.
In addition, the poem "Chasing Zi Ming" has a similar taste: the article first said that cousin Zi Ming had a good capacity for drinking and was very chivalrous when he was young. After middle age, he was famous for "dealing with political affairs in the name of punishment". In other words, his administrative ability and performance were excellent, which was no longer the demeanor of a young hero, but his drinking volume dropped to only three banana leaves. Think about it, I got drunk without seeing the wine, and now I can drink three banana leaves-Zi Ming and I are neck and neck. However, if you look down on yourself, you will lose your knowledge and ambition, and you will become a waste. Only in this way can you understand that both "drinking capacity" and "learning ability" will benefit from it, that is, you will lose from the other-a slight sigh is still full of funny feelings.
From the article Drinking, we know that Dongpo often makes his own wine. In fact, Dongpo likes making wine. He got it from Yang Shichang, a Taoist priest in Xishu. "Real pearl" refers to white rice and "jade" refers to white flour, both of which are common raw materials for brewing wine, but honey wine doesn't need these raw materials, so people say that "bees make rice to grow flowers". One advantage of brewing honey wine is that it doesn't need "filtering" (dialing). In addition, when he was in Huizhou, he brewed cinnamon wine. Ode to Guizi Wine said that this recipe was given by a hermit. "It is jade, fragrant and detached, and it is not human." Because cinnamon governs the middle, benefits the liver and lungs, can kill three insects, strengthen bones, and nourish the spirit and hair color like a boy. As a good medicine for treating heart cold, we reasonably speculate that Dongpo brewed osmanthus wine is nourishing the heart, but it is also healthy.
However, Dongpo's favorite is "Yizhen wine", and the "Yizhen wine" he brewed is also very particular and meticulous. "A true wine method to send Jian 'an Xu Dezhi" said: "Lingnan can't help drinking, almost a brewing method, given by God." It only uses three things: white flour, glutinous rice and clear water, which is the so-called real wine. Brewed into emerald color, with natural fragrance, absolutely like the jasper fragrance of Wang Taixu (Dongpo's friend Wang Shen), which is absolutely unique! It's amazing! "It can be seen that it is amazing. The detailed method in this paper is to ferment the above white flour into steamed cake (Qu cake), and hang it in the wind for two months after steaming. Use five or three buckets of glutinous rice, and three buckets is better. Take a bucket of rice for cooking at a time, wash it with clear water, dry it, mash three or two pieces of white koji powder, mix well, put it in an urn, pat it hard, press a conical concave well with a wide middle and a sharp bottom, sprinkle a little white koji powder, and cover it with a curtain. When the pulp is full, draw the curtain with a knife, then throw three liters of new rice into the well, cover it, and pour two bowls of cold boiled water. After fifteen days, you can get six liters of good wine. If the weather is too hot, the song will be halved. Finally, the article said: "The dry mercury method (Taoist silver smelting) might as well be passed on to others, but this method cannot be passed on. "It reflects Dongpo's treasure of the real brewing method, even to the point of being stingy with others. However, in this case, why bother to explain its practice? This shows Dongpo's humor and makes people smile.
Regarding the "God-given" wine method, Dongpo wrote "Remember to give a real wine method". The plot is bizarre, just like a dream. Try it: "I was in Baihe's new house when Taoist Deng suddenly knocked at the door. It was already three drums, and everyone in the family was asleep. The moonlight was like frost. Later, there was a great man (tall man), wearing clothes and leaves, fighting with wine in his hand. He was as rich as a duck and said, "Have you ever tasted real wine?" "Sit down, three people drink a few cups, clap and sing together downstairs. The sea breeze shook the water and the big fish came out. Giving books is a real practice and nine kinds of cultivation, and the last cloud is "Li Jingshu, the fairy of Jiuxia".
According to Taoist terminology, "true self" refers to the pure but not miscellaneous, eternal Taoist body, ontology and nature. In this paper, Taoist Deng and Li Jing, the fairy of Jiuxia, are both related to Taoism. In addition, the above honey wine was obtained from Yang Shichang, a Taoist priest in Xishu, and the method of osmanthus wine was obtained from a hermit. Then Dongpo's wine-making is almost beneficial to health, just like alchemy and medicine refining, which is related to Taoist elements in his thought.
Next, let's talk about food.
In the article "Biography of Gaozi in East Sichuan", Dongpo said: "Those who can't drink from the world can't give it to the lower ones" and "Those who drink from the world can't give it to the upper ones". Although Dongpo never said anything like "eating", he obviously likes eating. Yuanfeng was in Huzhou in May of the second year. In the same year, his friend Ding sent him a slug (a big crab) and wrote a poem to answer it. Among them, "Half-shell contains Huang Yi to order wine, and two pincers of snow advise to add vegetables", which fully shows his joy-both ordering wine and adding vegetables, and he is worthy of the last two sentences of this delicious food. "I can laugh at Xing Wu's gluttony, but one poem is worth two sharp balls", which makes me laugh at myself.
Dongpo meat mentioned at the beginning of this article can be found in "Ode to Pork" written by him when he demoted Huangzhou: "The pot is washed, the water is less, and the wood stove does not burn." . Don't rush him when he is mature, he will become beautiful when the heat is enough. Huangzhou good pork, the price is like dirt. You refuse to eat, the poor don't know how to cook. Get up in the morning and play two bowls, so full that you are heartless. In a few words, I pointed out the key to cooking, but I am different from the nobles and the poor, and I have delicious wisdom (the nobles don't eat low prices, and the poor eat irregularly; The former is stupid, the latter is ignorant) and obviously complacent.
Besides cooking pork, Dongpo is also good at cooking fish. The Law on Cooking Fish says, "My son is in Huangzhou, so I can cook fish by myself. The method is: take fresh crucian carp or carp, clean it, put it in cold water, add salt, and then mix it with Chinese cabbage and onion without stirring; After half-cooked, add a little ginger, radish juice and wine; When it is ripe, sprinkle some orange peel. Dongpo finally said that the beauty of its taste can only be realized by people who have eaten it, and it cannot be described in words. After reading these, maybe not many readers don't want to try cooking.
After leaving Huangzhou, he had a book to cook fish soup during his tenure in Hangzhou. He mentioned that when he was in Dongpo, Huangzhou, he often cooked fish soup himself to entertain guests, who didn't praise him. At that time, people thought it might be because the poor were easy to satisfy. Now I am in Hangzhou, and there are many delicious foods. Today, I just had dinner with Zhong, Wang, Qin and others. I'll have a party for a while and then try it again. Unexpectedly, everyone thought that "this soup is transcendental and high rhyme, which is beyond the reach of secular people." We believe that what these three people say is by no means flattering. Dongpo's special writing in the article should also show his pride in his craft, right?
Comparing these two essays, The Method of Cooking Fish and The Book of Cooking Fish Soup seem to refer to the same thing, and many people do think so. But there is no need to arrest. Huangzhou is close to the Yangtze River, and there are many aquatic products, such as fish, shrimp and crab, which are hardly cooked by Dongpo. The former is that "the eater knows his treasure, but he can't talk about it all"; The latter is called "transcendental high rhyme, which is beyond the reach of secular people." In a word, it proves that Dongpo is good at "cooking fish"
Besides fish soup, Dongpo also makes shepherd's purse and shrimp soup. In November, 2004, there were "three books for Wang", and the third one specifically wrote that on the 28th of that month, the weather was "rainy with light snow", and he caught a cold and "sat in danger until evening". Drinking a glass of ginger beer with Wang (the younger brother of Wang's father Dongpo Yuanpei) turned out to be "drunk". Also, "I personally made a shrimp soup with a gun and dagger. The food was delicious." In particular, I told Yuan Zhi (and maybe myself), "When I return to my hometown one day, don't forget this smell." Different from previous works, there is melancholy between the lines. Homesickness, homesickness, and even the feelings and scenes I cherish at this moment suddenly come to my mind, which makes me feel depressed!
There is a poem in Dongpo: "Eat without meat, you can't live without bamboo." No meat makes people thin, no bamboo makes people vulgar. People are thin and fat, but ordinary people are hopeless. Others laugh at this because they are stupid. If you still chew on this, how can there be Yangzhou cranes in the world? Later generations attached a doggerel sentence like "If you want to be thin, you should eat bamboo shoots and stir-fry meat every day", so Dongpo's image of eating meat lingered. As a matter of fact, Dongpo is always very poor and often can only eat vegetables. The reason why you can eat meat, fish and shrimp happily in Huangzhou is because the local products are rich and the prices are low. As early as in Mizhou (during Ning's reign), the family was "bored and didn't want to eat the kitchen", but "I imitated Liu Junting's style in the abandoned nursery in the ancient city, begged Qi Ju and ate it" (later Qi Ju Fu). It is mentioned in the article that I once doubted that the weather would follow me (Lu Guimeng, a poet in the late Tang Dynasty), saying that I often eat Qiju, because even if I don't meet a scholar, I can just shrink my clothes and go on a diet. If I am hungry enough to chew vegetation, I can't help exaggerating. However, contrary to my present situation, "I know that the words of heaven will live with me, and it is credible." "It was a self-deprecating poem" After Qi Ju Fu ". Later, Dongpo ate mostly vegetables and bamboo shoots in Huangzhou, Dingzhou, Huizhou and even Danzhou. In Huangzhou period, there was an article "Ode to Dongpo Soup", which opened the chapter and said: "Dongpo Soup covers the soup cooked by Dongpo laity. "The materials are fermented grains (Chinese cabbage), kohlrabi (kohlrabi), radish (radish), water chestnut and so on. All these should be washed several times to remove their bitterness. Then paint the kettle edge and porcelain bowl with a little crude oil. Fill the kettle with water and add some raw rice to the soup. When the rice is cooked, the soup will rot and be edible. If there are no vegetables, you can use melons and eggplant, but don't wash them. Add cooked red beans and japonica rice. The following steps are the same as cooking. Dongpo described this dish as "naturally sweet" and "naive".
"Two Redmi" means that when Dongpo has no japonica rice to eat, the servants are required to brew barley for dinner day and night. Because of "slurping", children make fun of each other and say it's "chewing lice." As for its taste, Dongpo described it as "naturally sweet, sour and slippery, with the smell of northwest villages" ... It was obviously a coarse and unpalatable meal, and Dongpo wrote it as if it was particularly tasty; The mutual teasing of family members witnessed their carefree situation. ...
At the same time, Dongpo also wrote two articles: Xiu Yuan Cai Xulian and Er Hong Fan. The former wrote about the yearning for the hometown nest vegetables (wild pea seedlings). The article said: "the beauty of those foods has a nest in my hometown, so I am addicted to it, and I am also addicted to it." He also said: "I have been to my hometown for ten or five years, but I can't get it." He said that when he came from Shu, he saw Huang, wrote a poem, returned it to his son, and planted it under the eastern slope. In the poem, there is a very vivid description of Yuan Xiucai; There is also "I don't know about chickens and dolphins, but I'm afraid it's empty", which shows that Dongpo loves this dish more than chicken and pork; He added: "I always forget my home, and Chu Yin has become a child. This thing is unique and charming. It wears a chest all year round. I like this dish so much that I can't forget it Therefore, I specially asked Yuan Chao to send me vegetables when he returned to Meishan, and told him "Don't seal the bag". I am eager to express my feelings. As for Redmi, when Dongpo had no japonica rice to eat, the servants were asked to cook their own barley day and night. Because of "slurping", children make fun of each other and say it's "chewing lice." As for its taste, Dongpo described it as "natural, sweet and sour, with the smell of northwest villages", and mixed it with red beans for cooking, which was particularly delicious. The old lady smiled and said, "This new rice is red, too." "It's obviously a coarse and terrible meal written by Dongpo, which seems to have a different taste; The mutual teasing of family members witnessed their carefree and carefree life. This kind of cultivation and feelings really make people yearn for it.
In the sixth year of Yuan You, when Dongpo was in Dingzhou, there was an article called "Bamboo Shoots in Parallel Order", which said that bamboo shoots tasted like bitter bamboo shoots and added sweetness. "It is very expensive for Shu people to worship Buddha, but the south doesn't know." He also said, "You can peel it in February, but after that, it's bitter and you can't eat it." As for the cooking method, "steaming is the same as bamboo shoots." If "honey is boiled and soaked", it will be "feasible for thousands of miles" over time. Dongpo specially gave this product to his friend Elder Zhong Shu.
Because bamboo shoots are shaped like fish, and most people in Shu worship Buddha with bamboo shoots, Dongpo called bamboo shoots "wooden fish". The last two sentences of the poem are very interesting: "What does wooden fish eat? Cooking can't sound solid. " Cooking can't make the sound of "use" ("wooden fish" is like a fish instead of a fish; Trees die without material, geese die without material; Paradoxically, without matter, the world is inevitably tired. )
In June, the philosopher Shao Shengyuan, Dongpo was demoted to Huizhou and arrived in Huizhou on the second day of October. On April 11th of the following year, there was a poem "Eating Litchi for the first time", in which the beautiful litchi was called "stunner". Yang Guifei's Classic of Eating Litchi said: "You don't have to wait for the princess to laugh, your personality is naturally beautiful. In the last four sentences of the poem, the beauty of litchi is even better than that of China shepherd's purse and perch (China shepherd's purse and perch): "I was born in a humid world, and I have been ignorant of perch for a long time. What is not a dream on earth? It's good to come to Wan Li from the south. There seems to be a gift of "Why do you want to go home when you are happy to eat litchi". In April of the third year of Shao Sheng's reign, he reiterated this proposition, which is the well-known poem: "The tangerine bayberry is the latest in the four seasons of spring in Luofu Mountain. Eat 300 lychees a day, and you might as well grow up to be a Lingnan person. In fact, when Dongpo arrived in Lingnan, he was embarrassed by food and clothing, and his status was humble. His poems about eating litchi fully reflect his open-mindedness and optimism. In other words, Dongpo is good at "turning around" to comfort himself in the face of all setbacks and sufferings. For example, in July of Shao Sheng's third year, he wrote that he borrowed land from others to grow vegetables and spent a whole year with his son Su. Even if you get drunk in the middle of the night, you can only pick vegetables and cook to relieve your hangover. This will be tragic for ordinary people, but Dongpo said: "The taste is rich in mud paste and the air is full of dew, although meat can't reach it." The poem says, "Qiu Lai East Garden is full of frost and dew, and reeds are swaying and grandchildren are full." . I am as full as ever, and I don't know why I want to eat chicken and dolphins! Later, when he was demoted to Danzhou again, he still often ate vegetable soup. He said: "the taste of vegetable soup is land and water, and poverty cannot cause it." Cook radishes, reeds and bitter vegetables. The method does not use acyl sauce, but it has natural taste, is easy to cover and can be enjoyed frequently. In Fu, it is specially described: "Take clear spring for exercise and expose leaves and roots. You can melt the liquid with ointment and then flow it into body fluids. Appropriate soup is like a breeze, and throwing beans is harmonious. Cover the dome of Taoou and stop stirring and touching it. The thick taste of acyl sauce is fragrant and spicy. The water consumption is beginning to heal, and the fire is getting worse. Noisy and clean, honest and beautiful. Regardless of materials and methods, it is the same as Dongpo soup in Huangzhou period mentioned above. Dongpo has been eating this soup for more than ten years from Huangzhou to Danzhou. When we imagine it, I'm afraid we can't help but have mixed feelings.
Although vegetable soup is easy to enjoy and Dongpo is calm, if you don't consider eating meat at all, it's not Dongpo. In the second year of Shao Sheng's life, he mentioned how to eat sheep spine in Huizhou in his letter to Ziyou, which was very interesting. The article is as follows:
Huizhou city is sparsely populated, but it still kills a sheep every day, and dare not compete with the government to buy it. At this time, it told the butcher to buy its spine ears. There is still a little meat between the bones, which is cooked thoroughly. ) In dipped wine, cook with thin salt and eat lightly. Picking it all day, you can get two baht between Ken and Mao, which makes you happy, just like eating crab claws. After eating it for a few days, you will feel very full. I stayed in the canteen for three years, and all I ate was poor tea and light rice. I have no teeth or bones. How do I know the smell? The script stays on this piece of paper. Although it is a play, it can be used. However, if you say this, the dogs will be unhappy!
Dongpo cooked the sheep spine, soaked it in hot water, roasted it with thin salt and charcoal, and ate it all day for several days. The image that nourishes it is as vivid and lovely as it is now. He also eats big fish and meat all day to tease children, and his mouth is full of sweetness. How can you know the beauty of this taste! The ending is particularly funny-if everyone imitates, the dogs will be unhappy. No matter how it ends.
In addition, in the winter of Fu Yuanyuan, he wrote a special article "Eating Oysters", which recorded that the Boers gave him oysters to eat. Dongpo said: "Cut it, and you will get several liters. Meat and pulp will enter the water and be cooked with wine. The food is very beautiful. Take the biggest one, cook it and chew it properly, which is beneficial to the cooked one. There is a word missing from the last sentence. It seems that the little guys added wine and water to boil; The big ones are roasted and eaten, as if they are cooked left and right, and they eat a lot. Dongpo is a little at a loss. It's amazing. He also mentioned, "Ocean countries eat crabs, snails and octopus. Do you have any suggestions? "(the original text is missing), it seems that he wants someone to send more kinds of seafood. Finally, he especially warned his son, Su Guo, not to be kind to outsiders, otherwise the northern gentleman would "beg Hainan and share my beauty", which was as humorous as showing the backbone of a sheep before.
In addition to eating oysters, Dongpo also likes sweet potato soup. A poem says, "It smells like dragon saliva, but it is still white and tastes more clear like milk. Don't spoil the South China Sea with gold, it is lighter than Dongpo jade. The preface before the poem (or the title of the poem) says, "When I passed the children, I suddenly had a new idea. I use sweet potato to make a jade plate, which is delicious in color and smell. The crisp lump in the sky is unknown, and there is no such taste in the world. "Dragon Spit" is a precious spice, which is made from the stomach secretions of sperm whales. Sudo is an ancient Indian cheese food, which is found in Buddhist books. Jade, that is, gold and jade, northern Wei dynasty, Qi Shu? In the section of Bahemu, garlic, ginger, orange peel, Bai Mei, cooked chestnut, japonica rice, salt and sauce are horseshoe gold with golden color, so it is called golden horseshoe gold; Jade refers to fish, white, so it is called. " Volume 234 of Tai Ping Guang Ji quoted the old topic Yan Shigu's Notes on Great Cause? "Biography of Wu" (scholars believe that it was written by Song people): "Take the bass below three feet as dried silver carp, soak it, wrap it in cloth and drain it, and serve it on a plate. "Take the fragrant soft flowers and leaves, chop them up alternately, and stir fry them with silver carp. After first frost, perch was as white as snow but not fishy. The so-called golden silver carp is also delicious in the southeast. " In the late Tang Dynasty, Pi Rixiu wrote three poems, "The New Autumn is a Thing": "There is nothing to congratulate, except the golden jade." It can be seen that from the Northern Wei Dynasty to the Tang Dynasty, and even to the Song Dynasty, gold and jade are all respected delicacies. Su Guo's wisdom changed. He came up with a new idea, and turned the sweet potato into a jade plate, full of color, fragrance and taste, which made Dongpo full of praise. When we read these works, the image of father and son cooking delicious food with local materials every day appears in front of us. Su Zhe's epitaph of the late Wang Ming's brother says: "People can't bear to worry, but eat taro and drink water to write books. Life is obviously hard, but the world written by Dongpo is so beautiful. Dongpo's inner broadness and elegance are amazing.
Dongpo's humor, openness and cheerfulness are well known. In the case of continuous relocation, he has never lost this trait. He has been living a miserable life with a relaxed heart and smiling eyes. This paper outlines his diet works in previous relegations, because this kind of "life-oriented" writing makes people feel Dongpo's unique temperament and self-restraint more easily; Look at the more lively and real Dongpo. Through these descriptions and records, Dongpo cured himself and his readers for thousands of years-no matter how unhappy the years are, we can immerse ourselves in Dongpo's food world and find a place to settle down.