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Who is qualified to be a "designer's designer"?
The designer I want to talk about is not only a fashion designer in a narrow sense, but also a design master in various fields.

For example, Steve Jobs, co-founder and former CEO of Apple, is his loyal fan.

His iconic black turtleneck shirt comes from Issey Miyake, Issey Miyake. In those years, he made 100 pieces in one breath, and it was 12 years when he wore it ~

After Jobs died, this dress was snapped up immediately. Unfortunately, 20 1 1, this model was discontinued immediately. Later, in 20 17, Issey Miyake introduced a "replica version" of the semi-dull T, which was not exactly the same as the version worn by Jobs. In contrast, the position of the shoulder line has moved up, retaining the special design of the middle seam. ...

In the French Shark starring Steve Jobs, the crew also faithfully restored Jobs' classic three-piece suit.

Although Jobs himself does not deny it, the main purpose of setting up uniforms for himself is not to worry about "what to wear today" every day. But no one can deny that the convergence of design ideas between Issey Miyake and Steve Jobs is the beginning of fate.

Both brands pursue the minimalism of "less is more", but they also have a core full of innovation and technology.

You may say, just an ordinary, pure black turtle neck, where did you get the sense of innovation and technology? Or people who know a little about fashion will think that Issey Miyake is full of wrinkles, won't they? Well, I want to introduce this great brand to you. ...

1. Fold all your life, but not just fold.

1960, the World Design Congress was held in Japan for the first time. At that time, Issey Miyake was still studying visual design in university. After browsing the brief introduction of the conference, he wrote to the organizer and asked, "Why is fashion design not within the discussion scope of the design conference?"? 」

Freed from the western "fashion theory", he had many fantastic ideas in his early years. For example, the "tattoo tights", which are not too unusual now, were introduced in Issey Miyake by 197 1. ...

Previously, what Issey Miyake pursued was more like exploring the relationship between "body and clothes". So he will use all kinds of strange materials that western designers have never used. Such as plastic, rattan, paper, etc. During that time, he called his works "body works".

This work, called "Waterfall Body", because the fabric contains silicon, combined with the three-dimensional tailoring close to the human body, presents an excellent visual effect of water flowing through the body surface. ...

These highly innovative and artistic designs have finally been noticed by the pure art world. 1982, the American art magazine Artforum published Issey Miyake's design on its cover. The jacket worn by the model is made of black rattan.

You know, the self-righteous art circle at that time never accepted the art category of "clothing". This is the first time that "clothes" appeared in art magazines.

As can be seen from the above design, Issey Miyake has been fascinated by pleated design since the early 1980s. It will expand this element into a representative element of the whole brand, and it will also start from a cooperation.

William Forsythe of the Frankfurt Ballet is watching Issey Miyake's exhibition "Issey Miyake? N ",I found him and hoped that he could design and perform costumes for his new dance" The Loss of Small Details ".

Issey Miyake thought how beautiful and comfortable the dancers would be when they danced if they made pleated clothes with very thin fabrics.

To this end, he painstakingly developed a subversive method of making folds. This method of heating and fixing makes the shape of pleats more stable and easy to take care of, and it will show different shapes because of the different figure of each wearer.

This is undoubtedly closer to Issey Miyake's understanding of the relationship between body and clothing.

As a result, it is logical to have a series of "pleats". Issey Miyake said that it was the birth of this series that finally gave him the confidence to call himself a "designer". These clothes, which are easy to take care of and anyone can wear, are his "universal clothes".

Issey Miyake finally found his own design direction. Later, through the cooperation with the fabric engineer of Fujiwara University, he restored and realized the concept of "a piece of cloth" that he thought of when he first became a designer.

The general principle of this garment technology is to arrange the garment pattern and fabric making process through computer programming, and then directly weave a long piece of cloth with thread. On this woven cloth, there are already clothes and even other accessories. Just cut them with scissors.

The innovation of this technology also minimizes the waste of cloth. Moreover, after the wearer gets the ready-made clothes, he can cut them according to his own needs, so that the fabric will not be destroyed and reeled. For example, if you are tired of wearing long sleeves, you can cut them yourself!

This garment technology, called A-POC (a piece of cloth), has become a solid product line and is still on sale. Does it look simple, but I didn't expect such a powerful technology behind it? !

Through continuous exploration and technical upgrading, elements such as folds, a piece of cloth and folds have become a stable design language in Issey Miyake. On the ready-to-wear line, you can find "universal clothes" that are simple, easy to take care of and easy to wear, and you can also see all kinds of brain holes of Issey Miyake and his team.

On the 20 14 autumn/winter show, they let the model walk onto the stage with a folded oval handbag. I don't know if the two-dimensional plane fabric will become a very different dress when it is opened.

2. Designer's designer

Why is Issey Miyake a "designer's designer"? One reason is that many designers are willing to buy his clothes out of their own pockets. Secondly, it is difficult for you to find a brand or design with such a flexible temperament.

These design masters, or singers and stars, have different temperaments, but they are all loyal fans of Issey Miyake. Zaha Hadid, a famous designer, is smart and capable.

On the other hand, Grace Jones is a typical idol in 1980s. He is crazy about money and bold.

Joni Mitchell's seemingly decadent and lazy French style is actually warm, restrained and artistic. ...

Including the Olsen sisters who launched their own minimalist brand, and they also like Issey Miyake's design very much.

Such a diverse fan base can only show that Issey Miyake's so-called "universal clothing" is indeed established. Good design should be simple and pure, with a sense of design, but not too "labeled", so that the wearer can create it again and show a different personality.

3. Cooperate, only with the right people.

Issey Miyake's powerful design concept not only attracts many star consumers. Naturally, it has attracted many artists and designers with similar tastes. He never used these people to engage in "carpooling" or "cooperation" and only let them shine in their best fields.

While writing this article, I was also attracted by many interesting design masters from Amway. Dai Sato is regarded as a design genius. As early as 2008, Issey Miyake found him and asked him to design a product with folded paper.

These pleated papers are derivatives of Issey Miyake's "Please Pleat" and usually end up being discarded. On a whim, Dai Sato peeled the folded paper and split it into chairs.

This kind of pleated paper has a certain strength because of the addition of resin in the production process, and the deconstruction of pleats naturally brings elasticity, so its shape can be adjusted according to the shape of the sitting person.

Another Sato, Sato Zhuo, has also maintained a cooperative relationship with Issey Miyake for several years. He is a very creative, enthusiastic and childlike graphic designer.

In his works, Issey Miyake's "life fold" can be turned into anything, whether it is all kinds of delicious food, flowers or animals.

A series of interesting products have also been derived from this, such as this "pleated bakery", which looks like two delicious bagels in the bag.

After opening, it is actually a variety of practical and wearable items such as sleeves and T-shirts.

There are also many western designers who have close relations with Issey Miyake. Especially those representatives of minimalism, such as jasper morrison in Britain.

He is one of the most influential industrial designers today, and many of his designs are classics (classics may be copied everywhere).

Issey Miyake launched a wristwatch with him. The whole wristband, including the surface, is a symbolic fold. The seemingly simple design of slapping on the head is unexpectedly suitable and beautiful. Is this the most powerful design?

Designer Todd Bracher's design concept caused a sensation in Issey Miyake:

It is conceivable that his design is the ultimate pursuit of simplicity, without artificial details.

His previous award-winning works all use the least materials to achieve the best results, which coincides with Issey Miyake's concept of "a piece of cloth".

So this time, the brand-new L'Eau d'Issey Pure found him to redesign the classic "Water of Life" bottle.

1992, the first perfume belonging to Issey Miyake, Water of Life, was born with fantastic ideas and unique views on natural aesthetics. For 26 years, because of the unique bottle body and charming smell, it has been selling well (and you said that the Chinese name of his brand is so wonderful that all series look good) ...

The bottle in front of the water of life was inspired by the bright moon on the Eiffel Tower that Issey Miyake saw while studying in Paris.

Now, Todd has turned this bright moon into a drop of water.

The original straight line was smoothed and replaced by a smoother curve. The crystal ball placed at the top of the bottle cap slipped into the bottle body to make the lines of the bottle body smoother.

This fluency makes the whole bottle more harmonious, like a crystal clear water drop. According to the designer himself, the design inspiration of the bottle really comes from the water droplets in nature. This form is more suitable for the name of perfume L'EAU D'ISSEY. "L'eau" means "water" in French, and water is the source of inspiration for L'EAU D'ISSEY's Water of Life.

It's especially nice to shoot this bottle in the sun. Light passes through the crystal clear bottle and water without any impurities, such as clear spring, and drops a little shadow ~

The source of L'EAU D'ISSEY is a drop, only one drop, which is extremely rare and precious, a kind of water that flows quietly at birth. Simple and pure, tolerant.

Just as Issey Miyake's clothes can be cut into different clothes in different hands, the temperament of the water of life delivered to different people is also very different. This is why the classic best-selling status of the water of life remains unchanged after many years of birth. ...

Issey Miyake had the bottle redesigned, just to adapt to the new light fragrance version of the water of life.

Compared with the classic water of life, the fragrance of water of life and light essence becomes softer and gentler. The first thing you smell when spraying on your body is the sea breath of Shui Yang, which echoes the fragrance of Long Xianxiang, fresh and full of vitality. The middle is followed by a soft and quiet floral tone. Lily of the valley breathes sweet jasmine, and Damascus roses picked at dawn are mixed with distant fragrance. Finally, it precipitates and flows all over the body, which is a warm Kashmiri woody ~

Another eau de toilette version is the first time to blend the refreshing and bright citrus fragrance into the water atmosphere. The full, bubbling citrus scent awakens the whole scent. The middle tone is supplemented by bitter orange blossom, which brings a cold and clean feeling. Finally, the clear sea breeze has a distant Long Xianxiang and a faint musk smell, and it is breathless and relaxed ~

The top of the bottle of eau de toilette is milky white, and the place near the bottom of the bottle is gradually transparent and very beautiful ~

In addition to the perfume itself, the packaging is also done with enough care. Issey Miyake's signature fold was specially added to the bag of the gift box, and the bag itself was not willing to throw away.

The outer box of perfume is a very transparent silver diamond cube, which is very architectural. Even the cushion stuffing in the gift box is wrinkled!

It is worth mentioning that Issey Miyake Issey Miyake Perfume Series is now the brand of Shiseido Group. This brand-new series is now on sale in the official flagship store of Issey Miyake Fragrance JD.COM. Click "Read the original" at the end of the article to go directly to ~

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