Since the poet Yu Jian's "Jianshui Ji" appeared on the college entrance examination papers the previous year, Jianshui, a small town on the southwest border, has become popular again.
In "Jianshui Ji", the poet describes the architecture, craftsmanship, food, and lifestyle in Jianshui City, providing a realistic template for "poetic dwelling".
The poet believes that the current lifestyle in the ancient city of Jianshui is just a reference for the better life that the Chinese people yearn for and seek.
How to truly understand an ancient city, an ancient building, a ritual passed down from generation to generation; how a city is placed and how it protects the human soul - Jianshui Ancient City, maybe it can really give us Certain revelations.
However, I would like to point out one point here: what is described in "Jianshui Ji" is about the ancient city of Jianshui in the time and space of 2015.
I always think that when we talk about Yunnan, we must pay attention to the "tense"! Because, every year Yunnan is almost completely different from the previous year, even beyond recognition.
In early 2017, the day before the Lantern Festival, I arrived alone in the ancient city of Jianshui. That was my first encounter with Jianshui.
More than four years passed, and time flew by. After New Year's Day of the Year of Gengzi in 2020, I drove to Yunnan with my friends from my hometown and saw Jianshui again. However, this time I was affected by the sudden epidemic and had to go in and out in a hurry.
This trip to Jianshui is my third time in Jianshui, so I call it “visiting the old days in Jianshui”.
Let’s talk about Jianshui Ancient City first.
There is no doubt that Jianshui is a living ancient city, just like Weishan. Jianshui Ancient City is larger than Weishan Ancient City, has a better location, and has richer and deeper tourism resources.
Poet Yu Jian said that the ancient city of Jianshui is a living museum. Any door or window, a water tank, or the railings, pottery, calligraphy and paintings in ordinary people's homes may all be works of art.
There was a very popular saying in the past few years: keywords. If we talk about the keywords of Jianshui, they must be the following: old buildings, ancient houses, ancient wells, baked tofu, purple pottery, Yunnan-Vietnam train, food, and several regular attractions inside and outside the ancient city.
The poet Yu Jian talked about old buildings and ancient residences in detail in "Jianshui Ji". During the half month I lived in Jianshui in 2017, I actually saw a lot. Those doors, windows, water tanks, and beam carvings are indeed worth seeing.
I remember one day, after a warm introduction from Mr. Xu of Dianyue Youth Hostel, I walked out of the city and went to the Huang Clan Ancestral Hall in Xinfang Village.
The whole eaves are all exquisitely carved! Because they are too high and the carvings are too small, they cannot be seen clearly, but their exquisiteness can still be seen.
When I left, I stopped at the door and turned around: they were there, a long, thin and beautiful strip, like a miniature gallery. For hundreds of years, they had been watching the years silently, unable to bear it. Get older.
At that moment, a complex emotion surged over me. I was caught off guard and almost cried.
I just thought of a saying: waste time on beautiful things.
Yes, people at that time really understood this sentence!
Even such a beautiful ancient city was demolished.
Demolish one street, then another – under China’s massive city-building movement, there is no room for you to show off your individuality.
To be honest, how many Chinese people are really interested in those original ancient buildings and ancient cultural relics? It’s the peerless treasures from Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes, so what? !
Similarly, how many Chinese people are really interested in restored, renovated, or imitated buildings and cultural relics? ——That’s it.
It’s just that the latter is easier to take pictures than the former, and the photos are more “photogenic”.
According to the poet Yu Jian, Jianshui seemed not to be demolished anymore, so something was left behind.
Today, there are still several old districts in the ancient city of Jianshui. The alleys are like spider webs, extending in all directions. There are many large courtyards of wealthy families. However, these large courtyards have all become large courtyards. After the land reform, The period has been torn apart, and there is no protection at all.
During the time I was living in Jianshui, I walked around the ancient city almost every day. There were indeed many large courtyards with large gates in many small alleys. Most of the gatehouses were dilapidated and the walls on both sides were dilapidated. All the paintings and sculptures on the temple were destroyed and replaced with the slogans of that special period - there is nothing to say except sighs.
Like Lijiang and Shiping, today’s Jianshui is also a new city surrounded by an ancient city. However, Jianshui City is different from Lijiang in that it is not surrounded by surroundings. It only takes a few minutes to get from Jianshui Ancient City to the wilderness.
In the words of the poet Yu Jian, "The earth has not been driven far away." The wind, sunshine, and flowers are all still nearby.
When it comes to the ancient wells of Jianshui people and the well complex of Jianshui people, there is really no one else.
It is said that there are 128 wells in Jianshui. Many wells built during the Hongwu period of the Ming Dynasty are still in use today. Moreover, each well has a Dragon King Temple and inscriptions.
The wells that can be named in Jianshui City include one well, two wells, three wells, four wells, Daban well, Xiaojie well, etc. Among them, Daban well is the most well-known to tourists.
Jianshui tofu must use well water from Dabanjing, otherwise the taste will change. Therefore, many tofu shops are concentrated near the wells. In the past, they were even made on-site by the well platform just to get water. of convenience.
However, locals believe that the water from Xiaojie Well is the sweetest.
"A Bite of China" says that Jianshui people understand water very well and believe that water can nourish people's spirituality and consciousness.
Yes, Jianshui people really understand and love water. You only need to take a look at the deep marks on the bluestones along the edge of each well, which is shocking. Those deep marks reveal the thing called "years".
In addition to the well complex, Jianshui people also have a complex that has been passed down from generation to generation: the tofu complex.
Speaking of Jianshui tofu, there is a folk song: Yunnan's stinky tofu must be Lin'an Prefecture... It smells stinky and tastes delicious. If you don't eat it for three meals, you will panic.
It is said that Jianshui stinky tofu originated during the Qing Dynasty. According to "A Bite of China", Jianshui stinky tofu is a subtle chemical reaction between wind, water, sunlight and tofu. He also said that Jianshui people enjoy the taste created by air-drying and fermentation.
Indeed.
It's more than that.
Grilled tofu in Jianshui is actually more than just a delicacy, it is a way of life.
Inside and outside the ancient city of Jianshui, grilled tofu stalls can be seen almost everywhere, and every restaurant has a dedicated area at the entrance for it.
It seems to be always there. You can walk in at any time, sit down, enjoy it slowly and pass the time.
You can also enjoy the delicious food while looking at the street view and scenery. At the same time, it also becomes a scenery in the eyes of others.
The grilled tofu stall in Jianshui is very simple. It is a square low table with an iron grate and short benches on the four sides, forming a physical business space. The grill stall owner occupies one side, and the other three Everyone is a guest.
Individual customers who don’t know each other sit together. Once they sit down, they don’t want to get up and keep eating...
There is another comparison between Jianshui’s grilled tofu stalls An interesting custom is that the owner of the barbecue stall uses a small plate with many dried corns and broad beans in it, and places a few empty plates to represent the guests. The guest picks up a piece of tofu from the fire grate, and the host throws a grain of corn into the empty plate representing the guest to mark the account.
The tofu is roasted slowly, and the eaters chat while eating. The grilled tofu stall is a "dinner" that you can join at any time and is open.
The milky-yellow tofu cubes are roasted on the fire and turn into golden, round and cute little ones, very cute. It is no exaggeration to say that this kind of thing about the size of a red rice grid almost fills the entire life of Jianshui people.
The conventional attractions in Jianshui are relatively concentrated: Zhujia Garden, Chaoyang Tower, Confucian Temple, Academic and Political Examination Shed, etc., all very close to each other, all in the ancient city.
Outside the city, there are Tuanshan residential buildings, Shuanglong Bridge, Yunnan-Vietnam Railway, Yanzi Cave, etc. The first three are also on the same line and can be connected by taking the Yunnan-Vietnam Railway.
Of course, new attractions have been developed over the years.
On this trip to Jianshui, on the day I left, I took bus No. 919 to the train station. The driver was a very talkative local middle-aged man, with the style of a man from Beijing.
According to him, there are several newly developed scenic spots in Jianshui, but many tourists still don’t know about it, including Nanzhuang Yunlong Mountain Scenic Area.
He thinks the Yunlong Mountain Scenic Area is worth seeing. There are ancient temples, tea gardens, and great natural and cultural scenery.
There are also Wulong Lake Ant Workshop, Zitao Street Night Market, etc. It can be seen that Jianshui is very advanced with the times.
We always keep pace with the times.
Especially those ancient towns and cities, if you want, you can almost always develop new attractions - isn't it just landscape + story? easy.
When it comes to Jianshui delicacies, Jianshui tofu is naturally recommended. In addition, there are steam pot chicken, grass sprout rice noodles, various barbecues, etc.
Some people say that Jianshui’s delicacies are the No. 1 in Yunnan, and the night market on Zitao Street can test this.
Jianshui is the birthplace of steam pot chicken, because the steam pot is made of purple pottery, which is a specialty of Jianshui. Steam pot chicken uses steam to steam the chicken. It is not stewing or frying, but steaming - all it takes is "time"!
In my opinion, Jianshui’s slow life is reflected in the preparation of these delicacies: whether it is grilled tofu or steamed chicken.
Of course, there are also morning walks in Chaoyang Tower, and afternoon card games and chess games. It looks like an old Beijinger.
Also normal. They are all old ancient cities, and they are all old ancient cities with profound accumulation of humanistic life.
Jianshui’s steam pot chicken has truly tender meat and delicious soup, which is better than other preparation methods. This reminds me of a proverb: You can't eat hot tofu in a hurry.
Yes, if you are too impatient to eat real delicacies, you have to eat those "pseudo delicacies" that are quickly blended.
In this sense, coming to Jianshui is to cure this "emergency disease" of modern people.
To taste delicious food in Jianshui, in addition to some roadside stalls, barbecue stalls, and small shops, such as Zixing Roast Duck Restaurant, Lin'an Hotel, Baoxing House, and Fuji Restaurant, you can try them all. Basically Won't be disappointed.
In addition, there are some "fly restaurants" that locals often visit. As long as you are interested and have time to find and ask, I believe you will be surprised.
I once read a sentence: When you go to Yunnan, you will find that some long trips are called tourism, and some long trips are called "living another life" - Yunnan is another kind of life. a desirable life.
That’s very well said. I would like to add: In the past, the representative of this kind of life was Dali, but now, I prefer to say that it is Jianshui.
When I was in Dali, I heard the word "fortunately" for the first time.
Today’s Kunming is already “difficult”. Today's Dali is gradually becoming "difficult" - when will the "good" Jianshui become "difficult"?
Let us pray that that day will come later, later, and later...
The poet Yu Jian once quoted Ming Yang Shen's writing about Jianshui in "Jianshui Ji" The poem laments that the Jianshui City hundreds of years ago described by Yang Caizi is not separated from the world, and is still there in general: the city, buildings, carved beams and painted buildings, Zhumenlv Lane, wells, archways, restaurants, lotus ponds, rice fields... The most important thing is, Although the details of the world described by Yang Shen have changed a lot, the atmosphere can still be felt.
This is a miracle - exclaimed the poet. Despite hundreds of years of changes, Jianshui is still the hometown of the aborigines, and they still live much the same life as when Yang Shen visited: making tofu, collecting well water, making jelly, making rice noodles, washing clothes by the well...
At the same time, the poet is inevitably worried: Today's Jianshui has been besieged by homogeneous new cities... I have witnessed its friends' hesitation, change, and perseverance.
Can Jianshui really escape the invasion, manipulation, and distortion of modernization and commercialization?
As the title indicates, my original intention for this trip to Jianshui was to "visit the old days". Since it is a "old place", there will always be certain people, things, things, and there will always be certain places that are particularly concerning and make people want to revisit and meet again.
Yes.
After getting off the bus at the bus station outside the ancient city, I chose to walk into the city and walk up Yinghui Road.
Compared with four years ago, Yinghui Road has become more beautiful. The green belt in the center of the road is full of flowers and colorful flags, making it more like a "Yingbin Road".
A new Wal-Mart opened near Mingbangfang, which is a little surprise.
After passing the Wenming Bangfang, it seemed that I had suddenly traveled to another time and space, and I was in a trance for a moment. The ordinary archway door seemed to be a secret passage mechanism. As soon as you entered, the Ming and Qing modes were immediately activated.
There are almost all old buildings on both sides of the road, which are genuine and not modern imitations. The roads and building facades must have been repaired, but they are more or less the same as before, and they don't look out of place.
I walked on the elevated pedestrian path in the middle of Yinghui Road, passed through the pavilions and pavilions built on it, and arrived at Yinghui Gate, which is the east gate of the ancient city. It is the famous Chaoyang Tower, which the locals call Little Tiananmen.
Passing through Yinghui Gate is the ancient city of Jianshui.
After four years, has the ancient city changed? It has definitely changed.
The road surface seems to have been repaired. At a glance, the entire Lin'an Road has become more beautiful and photogenic. However, there was nothing alarming. It was basically the same as it was four years ago, and the small shops that I frequented four years ago were still there: the old spoon noodles shop, the old papaya shop, and the stall selling Jianshui chicken feet. . When I asked about it, I found that the price was still the same as four years ago (I'm very touched, are you?).
I turned to the side alley to see the ancient well. The well is still there and in normal use. The houses in the alley, the people coming and going, the busy work in their hands, and the leisurely and contented expressions on people's faces and their unhurried manners - everything is still there.
A truly living ancient city - I thought to myself.
Under the blue sky, white clouds and bright sun, the slow life of self-sufficiency, simplicity and simplicity that has lasted for thousands of years is always going on unhurriedly. The charm that has been cultivated for thousands of years is here. In the city life of eating and drinking, in the lights of thousands of houses, kindness flows, endlessly.
That’s great.
Don't destroy it, just let it continue like this - ten years, a hundred years, forever.
I prayed for it silently in my heart. Although I know that the possibility is slim. Because change is always ongoing.
Everything is just a matter of time.
Walking under the archway at the intersection of Hanlin Street, there are sellers selling various fresh fruits and snacks as usual, and the prices don’t seem expensive. Like Kunming, the price here is also quoted per kilogram.
A group of tourists gathered in front of the academic and political examination booth, naturally taking various photos. I took a closer look and saw that some new sculptures had been added in front of the grill. This was really a bit of a show-off.
Originally, there was a group of group sculptures in front of the examination shed and a group of group sculptures in the courtyard. I think it's just right, quite harmonious.
There is an interesting little story about these two groups of sculptures. When I first saw the group of sculptures in front of the door, I always thought it was the candidates playing chess, while my husband stood aside and watched. One day I got closer and took a closer look, and then I suddenly realized: It turned out that they were baking tofu! What everyone is holding is chopsticks!
Upon this discovery, I couldn't help but burst into laughter: Jianshui roasted tofu is really a masterpiece of both refined and popular tastes. It can be used in the kitchen, in the hall, and in the elegant hall! It has penetrated into every pore of local life.
I thought again of the group in the hospital: the young master candidates who were walking and studying, rushing to take the exam with book boys and porters. Did the porter also carry a set of roasting tofu utensils in his bag? Thinking about this, I had some fun for a while.
After passing the magnificent "Two Winding Keys" archway in the middle of Lin'an Road, and walking further, you will find the Jianshui Confucian Temple.
When I was living there four years ago, I always visited the Confucian Temple in the morning and dusk. Jianshui Confucian Temple is known as the second largest Confucian Temple in China, second only to the Confucius Temple in Qufu, Shandong.
In my opinion, this is a very pleasant place. The spacious garden has lush trees, the water (panchi) is clear and full of vitality, which makes the eyes bright and the heart happy. .
Jianshui has such a great Confucian temple (there are only seven temples and eight temples in Jianshui City), and it is also a cause and effect. During the imperial examination era, Jianshui City emerged in large numbers with talented people, and it enjoyed the reputation of being "on the half-list", which shows its cultural and educational prosperity.
Nowadays, the ancient city of Jianshui holds a grand ceremony to worship Confucius in the Confucian Temple every year, as well as a series of cultural activities to inherit and carry forward Confucian thought and culture.
The ancient city of Jianshui and its original ecological life can continue to this day - one of the reasons for its persistence must come from this emphasis on and inheritance of traditional culture.
The section from the Confucian Temple to the Ximen Tower was once the busiest section of Jianshui Ancient City. It is home to the Confucian Temple, Lin'an Government Office, Zhilin Temple and other cultural relics and historic sites, as well as several delicious rice noodle shops. , Yun Tang Store, etc.
In my memory, there used to be several very good shops on both sides, but now, almost all of them have been replaced by purple pottery shops.
We can see the Ximen Tower from a distance, and the sunset is coming to an end. The last ray of sunset shines on the big green tree next to the tower. Next to the tree, the famous "Taste Lin'an" rice noodle shop is still there. , the business is still booming, with a steady stream of diners.
I was optimistic about a nearby B&B. After settling in, it was already the time when the lights were on, so I went out and headed straight outside the west gate.
The biggest change is outside the west gate. At this time four years ago, this street was the busiest business, but now, the street looks dark and deserted, and more than half of the shops have closed their doors.
I heard that many tourists have now moved to the Zitao Street Night Market to eat grilled tofu and grass sprout rice noodles. Therefore, the tofu industry in Ximen has slowly cooled down.
I remember the Banjing Tofu Shop opposite Dabanjing. They had a tofu buffet breakfast in the morning, which cost 5 yuan per person. You can eat tofu curd, soy milk, dried tofu, stinky tofu, fried tofu skin, and various condiments. It doesn't taste that good, but I can eat all the tofu in one go.
I don’t know if this self-service restaurant is still there. Looking at the online introduction, it seems that it is still there and the price has not changed.
Not bad.
In the dark of night, I wandered back and forth on the small street leading to Dabanjing. People who didn't know would think that I had lost something.
Yes, I have lost something - I have lost part of my memory.
Where did that grilled tofu shop go?
I can’t remember exactly which one it was. During the half month I lived there four years ago, I would come there almost every day to eat her baked tofu.
She always sits at the grilled tofu table at the door and bakes tofu for the guests. Every time I go there recognizing her, I don’t remember which house it is or the houses there. They are all so similar.
Under the dim street lights of the old street, I carefully identified each house and walked past. There are two doors that are closed, and the ones that are open are engaged in other businesses. Through the half-open door of one family, you can see chickens being raised inside, with cages of chickens stacked on top of each other. However, in my memory, there is no such business on this street.
I suspect this is it. Or the house next door. There, in the middle of the main room, a woman is sitting there, immersed in making those small chess pieces. Packing them one by one, a small piece is made, neatly stacked, one drawer after another, placed on the around her.
The direction is roughly here, I can basically determine it.
Her brother and sister-in-law rented out the main hall and stopped eating the restaurant? Their old mother passed away? So where did she and her fat son go? Go back to the army and go to their own homes? Or found another way to make a living?
I call her "the daughter of the Ximen Baked Tofu family". She is a middle-aged woman in her 40s. She told me her story: She went out to work at a very young age, married a northern soldier who was stationed in the army, and the marriage was not satisfactory. She changed businesses one after another, but nothing happened. What an improvement.
After the tourism industry in Jianshui emerged, her ancestral house suddenly became valuable because it was close to Ximen Dabajing. Her brother, sister-in-law and old mother lived there. The brother-in-law and sister-in-law turned the main room on the first floor into a restaurant and also grilled tofu. She came back and helped bake tofu. Sometimes her fat son also comes over to help bake.
I will never forget the look on her face when she said these words: she lowered her voice (her brother and sister-in-law were busy in the semi-open kitchen at the back) and spoke softly, looking around from time to time, as if she was wary of something.
I will never forget the hidden resentment and hatred in her words.
Who to blame? Who do you hate? What to complain about? Hate what? ——Or only she knows, or even she herself is not very clear about it.
I feel a little disappointed. I can’t explain why, or maybe I want to see her again more than I thought I would.
Why is there such concern? Can't tell clearly.
Traveling is a magical thing sometimes.
It’s not too late to return to the ancient city again. It’s the darkest hour of the night, and the lights are brightly lit everywhere on Lin’an Road. I turned right at the intersection of Hanlin Street and went straight to the south gate.
During the half-month period four years ago, I stayed at the Reverse Traveler Inn outside the South Gate.
It was an inn run by a girl from Anhui. Speaking of it, it is also an interesting story. I will tell it again when I have the opportunity.
During that half month, except for wandering around the ancient city every morning and dusk, and visiting the surroundings of the ancient city from time to time, I spent the rest of the time staying in the inn, reading books, and writing travel diaries.
Meet all kinds of passers-by.
There are a few people who also worry me a lot.
There were two middle-aged men, both from Beijing.
One was a guest who stayed in the inn for two or three days. It seemed that he had just come down from Yuanyang and was preparing to go up. I can’t remember clearly. I can’t remember his appearance clearly, but he probably looked like a passerby, a typical rough Beijing gentleman.
He acted quite deep at first. The night before leaving, everyone was drinking tea and chatting in the lobby on the first floor. The eldest brother suddenly opened up the conversation and talked about his failed business, failed marriage, and his full heart. Anger, depression, and confusion.
"I was very successful at first, making a lot of money, but somehow I lost money, and the losses got bigger and bigger, and I couldn't stop the car." The eldest brother's confusion was real and heavy.
"In the end, I am still too greedy... My wife tried to persuade me, but I couldn't listen... As a result, I was beaten... Women are so cruel when they are ruthless. They don't say anything, just roll up their bags and leave. , take the child away too...I have worked hard for half my life together, and nothing has been achieved. It's all in vain."
This elder brother had a saying that left a deep impression on me. "If life is smooth sailing and I can cope with it, who needs religion?" - At that time, the elder brother was asking everyone present about the liberation of Buddhism.
Four years later, I can still clearly remember the pain that could not be concealed on the face of the Beijing eldest brother that night and the scars under his eyes.
Life can really hurt sometimes.
Another big brother from Beijing came to help a friend look at the room.
According to his own introduction, he has rented an old yard in a certain alley and plans to clean it up and use it as his own residence and as a pizza shop.
As we were chatting, the topic changed somehow, and so did the eldest brother’s calm expression: Bastard! If you want me to catch him, you don't need any money. I'll have to take off one of my grandson's thighs first.
Matching these words was the ferocious expression on the elder brother's face.
It turns out that my eldest brother was once a photographer for a magazine in Beijing. He once hiked the Great Wall of China with his friends and took many good photos. "The clarity and color of the photos are better than ordinary photography photos, and they will not be taken out now."
Later, the eldest brother opened a company with a friend to represent an outdoor sports brand. As a result, the friend absconded with the money and has not been caught yet.
As a result, the eldest brother went bankrupt, divorced, and fell into despair.
"You bastard, you ruined my life"! The eldest brother gritted his teeth.
There is also a young man from the Northeast who took a ride all the way to Yunnan. He claims that he has found his passionate career and the direction of his life in Yunnan - that is tea.
And that...
And that...
The reason why I particularly remember the two Beijing brothers is because they both have deep feelings in their hearts. Resentment, hatred.
They remind me of the book "The Insulted and Injured" by the great Russian writer Dostoyevsky - yes, they are all victims, friends, and victims. One's own greed is influenced by life and destiny.
Are they okay now? Have they moved on from the past? Have they tried to get rid of the resentment and hatred in their hearts?
I hope they can.
Fate can’t always trick someone! Although the reality is often exactly that.
I don’t know where they are now, or they may have left Jianshui long ago, but I still want to go to the inn to have a look.
The inn is still there.
As soon as I stepped into the familiar front hall, memories came to me across thousands of mountains and rivers...
There was no one in the front hall, and I didn't say hello. I just wanted to take a look and leave.
I lingered in the large lounge, looking at the graffiti on the wall that was still the same. It was two illustrations taken from "The Little Prince", covering both walls, the same as in the book. Composition, same tone.
"Oh, that was painted by a young man who once lived here. He painted it in his spare time." When I asked, the young female boss said lightly.
When I left, I turned around and looked again. The little boy with golden curly hair, that lonely, small back, looked at his planet in the distance...
I raised my hand Try the corners of your eyes, turn around and leave.
Early the next morning, I went to Shiping Ancient City.
On the morning of the third day, I went out of the city to see Shuanglong Bridge. From a distance, I can see that the old tree "throwing towards the water" beside the bridge is still there, still in its intoxicating posture. The bridge deck is still a large boulder, which has been polished smoother by the soles of the feet.
I continued to rush to the Xianghuiqiao Railway Station not far away. Standing on the narrow rail, looking around, the blue sky is still the same, the wilderness is still the same, a gust of wind passes by, and the fragrance of the land and flowers and trees comes - it is inexplicably reassuring and happy.
I once saw a photo taken by tourists here: a bright yellow train slowly driving through the flowers - looking at it, that sentence will immediately come to your mind : The train bound for spring.
Yes, blooming among the flowers, the train bound for spring - this scene can only be found in Yunnan.
Yunnan is such a luxury, so luxurious that it’s like a dream!
It’s probably because this land is so rich and beautiful. Yu Jian, a native poet in Yunnan, said that the land of Yunnan has this ability. No matter how much it is destroyed by humans, with a few rains and a gust of wind, the gardens will grow again, one by one, covering this unique land.
I hope so.
May this always be the case.
Jianshui travel tips——
1. Transportation.
Train: There are high-speed trains from Kunming to Jianshui, several times a day. In addition, the previous green train continues to operate.
From Jianshui Railway Station to the ancient city, there is bus No. 919, which goes directly to the north gate of the ancient city. Taxis are also available.
Car: This time I took the shuttle bus from Maitreya to Jianshui. There is no direct shuttle bus from Maitreya to Jianshui. You can take the shuttle bus from Maitreya to Kaiyuan, several buses a day, 31 yuan. Then take the shuttle bus from Kaiyuan to Jianshui, which also runs several times a day and costs 27 yuan. Please leave a message for details.
2. Accommodation.
There are various accommodation options in Jianshui Ancient Town and New Town. There are various hotels, inns, B&Bs, and youth hostels on both sides of Lin'an Road in the ancient city. There are also some youth hostels outside the south gate and north gate. There are hotels and B&Bs of various grades in Xincheng.
3. Shopping.
Lin'an Road, Hanlin Road, and Zitao Street are the main shopping places. Purple pottery is the main specialty of Jianshui, but you should choose carefully when buying it, as the quality varies.