Based on the shape of snow, snow scenes can be divided into falling snow, accumulated snow and wind and snow landscapes. When photographing falling snow, you should choose a snowy day with a large diameter and thin snow mass, and use a dark background (buildings, streets, woods, etc.) to highlight the trajectory of the falling snow. Photographing snowy landscapes requires accurate exposure. Many complex factors must be considered, such as weather conditions, morning and evening, direction and angle of light, color and coverage of snow, etc. Experienced photographers will Boldly increase some exposure based on the metered value.

The first type is a simple snow scene. Even if there are characters, they are also embellishments and foils in the snow scene. The most advantageous time and method are: when the snow is falling, especially when there is heavy snowfall, use small One-point aperture (if using a standard lens, use f/11 or f/16, and place the distance scale on 5 meters).

The second is to use snow (often "snow") as the scene, with characters as the main subjects, to create a strong contrast between people and snow. At this time, pay attention to the fact that the reflection of the snow cannot be directly reflected on the face or body of the character. When the sun slants on the ground, the uneven snow itself casts a shadow, which will increase the texture and volume. Use color film to shoot snow scenes and add a polarizer. On the one hand, you can adjust the color of the sky, and it can also eliminate reflections and reduce the color temperature (because the color temperature of snow is high, blue shadows will appear); use a hood as much as possible to prevent clutter. The reflected light enters the lens.

The third type is when people are in the snow (often "wind and snow"), and the reflected light from the snow can be reflected onto the person's body or face. When choosing to shoot in dry snow, pay attention to the lighting angle and background image.

◆Exposure:

Correct exposure is the most basic and critical issue in shooting snow scenes. Snow is a pure white crystal. When it accumulates on a scene, it turns white, thereby increasing the reflectivity of the scene. The parts of the scenery with snow are very bright, while the parts without snow appear very dark, which makes the contrast between each part very high. The metering value of most digital cameras is obtained by the reflection of the scene. Therefore, if you meter directly against the snow scene, the picture taken will be darker. At this time, you must perform exposure compensation to obtain normal exposure. .

Correct metering and correct exposure are the keys to success in taking snow photos. In a large area of ??snow, if you use the camera's internal metering system to measure the light, and shoot the snow scene based on the displayed data, the snow scene will generally be underexposed. This is because the camera's internal light meter measures the light according to a certain procedure, and what it displays The data is the average light value of the highlights, midtones, and shadows in the comprehensive scene. This is feasible in most cases, but in snowy scenes, strong reflected light often makes the metering results differ by 1-2 exposure stops. In this case, you can use exposure compensation and increase the exposure by 1-2 levels as appropriate. You can also aim the camera at the mid-tone object, take a local close-up measurement, and adjust the camera to "manual" based on the data measured at this time. "position to take photos. Photographers who have an incident light meter can measure the light beam shining on the subject in the snow and take pictures according to the resulting exposure data, which will be accurate.

When it is covered with snow, due to the reflection of the snow, the background brightness of the part with snow appears very bright, while the part without snow appears very dark. The contrast is very large. For most automatic cameras, metering It is determined based on the intensity of ambient light. Therefore, due to the light reflection of the snow, the intensity value of the ambient background light is relatively high. In fact, the brightness of the object is not high, resulting in inaccurate photometry. At this time, the photo will be taken directly. It often appears underexposed. The scenery in broad daylight looks like it is at night, and the white snow looks khaki. How terrifying!

When it snows, the weather is bound to be humid, the humidity is relatively high, and the fog may be heavy. If the temperature is not low enough, fog and liquid snowflakes will mix together, resulting in low visibility. When there is fog, the visibility is usually within 1 km. At this time, try not to use too high a zoom factor, otherwise the picture will be blurry and the color will be dim. , it’s better to get closer and take pictures.

Due to the inaccurate photometry caused by the light reflection of the snow, you may encounter a picture with great contrast in both forward and backlight situations. For example, when taking pictures of pine trees, the areas with snow are very white, and the areas with snow are very white. The snowy branches look particularly dark. Coupled with the overall underexposure, the output is often black. "Heavy snow on green pine" turns into "dirty snow and iron wire". Isn't it really bad?

The exposure time of most digital cameras can be adjusted manually, ranging from -2.0 to +2.0 in 0.5 increments. According to my experimental results, it can generally be set to about 1.0. When shooting, you can open the LCD screen. At this time, you can see the picture effect after adjusting the exposure or take a test shot for observation. It is better to be bright but not dazzling, and it is not enough or too much. The effect is not good.

Exposure compensation is undoubtedly the biggest problem when photographing ice and snow. If it is too much, it will be pale and without layers, and if it is not enough, it will be gray and lose the charm of snow. The metering system on the camera uses medium gray as the metering benchmark. Snow and ice are much brighter than medium gray. If the reflection of sunlight on a sunny day is added to the light meter, the light meter will be deceived. At this time, compensation exposure must be carried out. In principle It’s about adding, not subtracting.

If you are only taking a picture with partial snow, it is better to increase the exposure by 1 stop. At this time, the proportion of snow in the picture accounts for about 1/3.

If the proportion of snow in the picture is more than 1/2, you should add 1.5 to 2 stops of exposure; if the whole picture is covered with snow and there is strong sunlight, you should add 2.5 to 3 stops of exposure to compensate. The above data are based on average measurements. The light method shall prevail. It is not easy to come across a good snow scene shooting opportunity. The safest shooting method is to use bracketing exposure method. Almost all EOS series cameras have an exposure bracketing function, called the AEB function. That is, when shooting and metering, different exposure values ??will be set for three consecutive photos. If each photo is compensated in order of 0.5 steps, the total Will take an ideal photo.

◆Light:

Light plays a very key role in photography. In many cases we cannot change the natural light, so we can only wait for the light to change or use different angles. Use light wisely.

Because snow is a kind of white crystal, its reflectivity is high, and of course it will appear brighter when the sun shines on it. Therefore, when shooting snow scenes, if you use front light or top light to shoot, due to the flat or vertical light, not only will the fine snow-white crystal objects not be able to produce light and dark levels and texture, but the scene will also lose its three-dimensional sense. Therefore, in order to show the light and dark levels of the snow scene and the transparent texture of the snow, it is most suitable to use backlight or rear side light to shoot the snow scene. However, when backlight or side light shines on a snow scene with a large white area, scenes of other tones that are not covered by snow will inevitably turn black easily. Therefore, in order to make the white snow and scenes of other tones in the snow scene have To create a sense of layering, you must choose soft sunlight when shooting snow scenes.

To take pictures of snow scenes, it is best to take pictures on a sunny day after snow. It would be even better if you can catch the early morning light. In the sun, the use of side light and side backlight can best express the light and dark levels of the snow scene and the transparent texture of the snow particles. The tone is also rich in changes, and even distant views can create a profound atmosphere. If you are photographing people in the snow, it is best to add fill light to the face and wear a hood on the camera lens. If you use black and white film to shoot snow scenes, you should add a dark yellow, orange, or yellow-green filter to lower the tone of the sky, weaken the brightness of the snow, and soften the tone of the scene. If you use color film to shoot snow scenes, it is best to use a polarizer to absorb the polarized light reflected by the white snow, reduce the brightness, adjust the tone, make the white clouds in the blue sky stand out, and also increase the saturation of the color.

Generally speaking, adding one stop of exposure compensation can achieve better results. Of course, this is not absolute and needs to be determined according to the on-site environment. Therefore, after shooting, play back the picture in time to judge. Increase or decrease exposure compensation. It should be noted that not all snow scenes require exposure compensation. Exposure compensation is only considered when snow occupies a majority of the area in the picture.

Be good at using flash, and use slow synchronization when necessary. Because the background light is bright, objects in backlight or shadows will appear insufficiently bright, so you need to supplement the flash in order to take photos with layers, and the distance of the flash It is generally quite limited, so be careful not to shoot too far away.

◆Shutter:

If you use a shutter speed of 1/30 second for shooting in the wind and snow, you can capture the flow of snowflakes blown by the wind, thereby increasing the image of the work. line structure.

If you need to take a photo with snowflakes flying all over the sky, then you should choose a darker background to avoid background interference. At the same time, the shutter speed should not be too high, usually around 1/125 seconds, so that the flying snowflakes can form lines, showing the movement of the snowflakes.

On a snowy day, to get a picture of flying snowflakes, you should choose a dark background as a background; the shutter speed should not be too high, generally 115 to 160 seconds, so that the flying snowflakes can form The lines have the motion of falling snowflakes. When photographing people in the snow, be careful not to let the snowflakes get too close to the lens, lest they block the person's face due to perspective.

◆Reference objects:

When shooting snow scenes, you should also make full use of snowy or ice-covered branches, fences, buildings, etc. as foregrounds to improve the expressiveness of the snow scene and add to the picture. The spatial depth enhances people’s feeling of ice and snow.

A landscape full of snow may look a bit dull. You can add some colorful objects to add highlights to the snowy scene. For example, using pine branches covered with ice or covered with thick snow, light poles decorated with colorful advertising signs, or buildings as the foreground of the shooting can increase the depth of the space and improve the expressiveness of the snow scene. The whole picture has richer connotations, and the viewer will not be bored because of the vast expanse of white.

◆Filter:

Polarizing filter (PL filter) is a particularly effective auxiliary filter when shooting ice and snow. Its first function is to effectively eliminate reflections. Of course, strong point reflections are not included in this list. With this function, you can control the degree of reflection from ice and snow when shooting to achieve the best gradation performance. The method of use is to install the polarizer on the lens of the SLR camera, slowly rotate the polarizer, and you can observe the degree of reflection in the viewfinder to achieve the effect you need. The second function of the polarizer is to enhance the absorption of blue-violet light without affecting other colors. In this way, in clear weather, blue sky and white snow will appear very well, otherwise the layers of ice and snow will be lost, and the pictures taken will be very different from the scenery you see.

Do I need exposure compensation when using a polarizing filter (PL filter)? To express the whiteness of ice and snow, appropriate compensation still needs to be made. After using a polarizer, the performance of the dark parts of the picture is enhanced. At this time, if you add level compensation according to the normal standard, the dark parts will lose their level. In order to make the picture have a balanced performance, the exposure compensation after adding the polarizer is reduced by 1 compared with before adding the polarizer. /4 to 1/3 is good.

◇◇Protection:

Another important issue in snow scenes is to protect your equipment. Due to the low temperatures and humid air in winter, this environment is likely to affect the use of digital cameras. Therefore, simple cold-proof and moisture-proof treatment is necessary. For example, simply wrapping it in a plastic bag can have a good effect. When not shooting, you can put the camera in your clothes to keep it warm. At the same time, you also need to pay attention to the insulation of the battery. The battery consumes quickly at low temperatures. Insulation can extend its use time. Of course, it is necessary to prepare more batteries. Finally, you need to pay attention to personal insulation. You must prepare clothes, hats, and gloves. Winter is really cold.

◆Condensation:

Due to the cold weather, we must avoid shooting at low temperatures for a long time to prevent premature aging of the machine. In addition, when a digital camera is brought from a cold place to a warmer place, moisture condensation may easily occur. At this time, the camera tape will adhere to the drum of the camera, and the camera will automatically protect itself, causing the recording button to temporarily become disabled and unable to continue shooting. So be careful to avoid this happening.

If you have to take your digital camera from a cold place to a warmer place, such as when returning to a hotel room from a ski resort, you can first put the digital camera in a plastic bag and then seal it. Remove the plastic bag when the temperature of the air in the bag reaches the ambient temperature, which can effectively prevent moisture condensation from occurring.

If you use a viewfinder to shoot, you will encounter such a problem in the cold winter: the water vapor you exhale makes the body hazy, and sometimes even the lens will be blurred by your Water vapor is "polluted", so you'd better bring a soft cloth with you to clean the camera body at any time. It's also best to wear a mask or exhale slowly when shooting. If the shooting time is relatively short, you can also hold your breath temporarily.

Of course, if you use the LCD screen to take pictures, then you won’t have this problem. However, as mentioned earlier, using the viewfinder to take pictures can save a lot of power. , it is wiser to use the viewfinder when the battery power you carry with you is tight.

Be careful not to fog up the lens.

Be careful to prevent moisture. If it is snowing, be sure to use something to cover the camera, otherwise it will be more troublesome if the camera gets water!

◆Battery:

Battery is another big problem encountered when shooting snow scenes. Low temperature causes the battery to drain very quickly. For example, a battery with half power at 20 degrees Celsius above zero will be completely consumed immediately at minus 5 degrees Celsius.

The battery life will be greatly shortened at low temperatures, so when you go out to shoot in winter, you must pay attention to the battery life. We can make up for this shortcoming through the following methods. The best thing is to Prepare enough spare batteries. The combined use time of the two batteries should greatly extend your shooting time. When not shooting, it is best to remove the battery from the fuselage and put it into the pocket of a cotton coat. This can also be effective. Extend battery life. In addition, using a viewfinder to shoot can also save power than using an LCD screen. When power is tight, it is recommended that you use a viewfinder to shoot.

Answer: Love home-cooked meals - Manager Level 4 1-28 22:37

/tommmmmmmmy

My space has everything, it’s all about photography

Hehe, I also use the 400d, but it hasn’t snowed much in Beijing this time.

I can’t tell you that I didn’t take much pictures either....

Hmm... You can use landscape mode or M mode. When the aperture and shutter speed are about the same, try bracketing the exposure...

It is also important that the white balance must be adjusted well. Don't let the snow scene become biased. Color

Let me give you an article first

Tips for shooting in winter

Winter is the most wonderful time of the year, with sunny days to snowstorms Various climatic phenomena such as climate change provide photographers with excellent material for taking pictures. Here are 9 great ways to show off your skills this winter.

1. Sense of color

Winter snow can be a great photographic subject, but a photo full of snow may look a bit dull. You can add some colorful objects to highlight the snow scene, such as the red car in this photo. When shooting after a snowstorm, it's a must-have to transform a gray weather photo into a beautiful winter image.

2. Holiday lights

Colorful holiday lights can create colorful photos. You may well think that night is the best background for them, and decide that night is the ideal time to photograph them. But in fact, the effect produced in this way is just some colorful dots on a black background.

If you try to shoot at dawn or dusk during the "magic hours", you can also record some details in the scenery, and the picture will be more interesting. You must use a tripod when shooting, and exposure bracketing is also a good method.

3. Sunrise

In the long summer, the sun usually rises very early. And in the winter the sun rises later, which means you don't have to get up early to capture these beautiful views. You can meter the sky on the side of the sun (but not letting the sun enter the camera's viewfinder), as in the example here.

4. After the blizzard

Winter is a season of frequent snowstorms, but after the blizzard, there will be a feeling of clear skies and incredible bright lights. To photograph this kind of scenery, you must first make preparations for observation. Check local weather forecasts to find out when snowstorms are likely to occur, and scout out areas that may offer beautiful views.

5. Shooting in “bad” weather

Many photographers will hide indoors and complain when the weather turns “bad”. In fact, they are missing a great opportunity to shoot, because this type of weather often produces amazing works. Don't let yourself become one of the whinerers. Gear up (wear layers of clothing) and protect your gear in adverse conditions, then find footage.

6. Bare branches

The colorful leaves in autumn often make photographers stop. But you shouldn't ignore trees that have lost their leaves in winter. They can provide great subject matter. You can shoot from below a tree with a wide-angle lens, as one of the photos here shows, or from a distance with a telephoto lens. Either way, the key is to highlight the interesting parts of the tree branches. If you are shooting from the middle under a tree, reduce the aperture and increase the depth of field so that every detail in the photo can be clearly displayed.

7. Icicles

Icicles will add an interesting element to photos. When photographing, you can move closer to capture just part of a single icicle, or move farther away to capture their surroundings. You can also go around in a circle and shoot with foreground or background light. When taking close-up photos, also reduce the lens aperture to maximize the depth of field.

8. Window filter effect

Window will produce various interesting changes related to water in winter, such as fog and raindrops. This visible moisture can be a great photo subject in itself, but it can also serve as an interesting "filter" for you. Focusing on water droplets or fog, various scenery outside the window will show various structural effects. If your camera has a depth of field preview function, you can try out various effects when changing the aperture size; if it does not have this function, you can try shooting the three effects of maximum aperture, half aperture, and minimum aperture.

9. Snow scene exposure

The light meter (including the in-camera metering system) uses the medium gray density as the exposure standard. If you expose based on the reading of the light meter, If so, the photos you take will be gray in tone. Snow is generally thought of as white, rather than gray, so photos of snow look best when exposed to a white tint. The all-round light meter that comes with the AF 35mm SLR camera now is excellent at reproducing white snow scenes without any correction. However, for the old central light meter, you should increase the reading of the light meter when shooting. 1-1/2 stops of exposure. For AE mode, you can compensate for exposure by +1 to +1.5 stops. If you don't compensate for the exposure, you and your light meter will be "deceived" by the white snow, and the photo will be dark.

When you use your own camera to shoot snow scenes for the first time, you can perform step exposure, take several photos and record them to see how much exposure compensation is needed to achieve the desired photo effect