Songjiang four-gill perch "The west wind blows the four-gill perch, and the thunder pine is crisp and greasy." The four-gill perch described by Fan Chengda, a poet in the Southern Song Dynasty, is a perch produced in Songjiang, a tributary of Huangpu River. Songjiang perch is small, with little output, but it has a good reputation, mainly because of its delicate meat, fat as snow, no fine burrs and delicious taste. Many scholars and poets have praised it for thousands of years. When Hans Zhang, a writer in the Jin Dynasty, was an official outside, an autumn wind blew, which aroused his homesickness. He gave up his official position and returned to his hometown. Xin Qiji, a great poet in the Southern Song Dynasty, has a saying: "Don't say that the perch is terrible, the west wind is spreading eastward, and the Ji Ying has not returned?" Emperor Qianlong of the Qing Dynasty went down to the south of the Yangtze River twice, and both times he deliberately rushed to Songjiang Prefecture to eat four-gill bass, which was highly respected and ordered the sacrifice of bass every year.

This kind of fish is very small, spindle-shaped, about 12 cm long, but its weight is not more than two or three times. Its head is big and flat, its eyes are small and it is born above, its mouth is fan-shaped and scaleless, its back is yellowish brown, its abdomen is gray-white, and it has four or five black stripes on its body. Strangely, after Songjiang perch left the water, there was still water in its gill cavity. If put in rice chaff, it can live for four or five days. Because this fish has a dent in the front and back of each gill, the shape and color are like gill holes, and there is an orange-red stripe on the gill cover, which looks like four exposed gill leaves. Therefore, in ancient times, people thought that Songjiang perch had four gills.

Its characteristics: Songjiang perch meat is tender and fat, fresh and fishy, which is the most delicious among wild fish and one of the four famous fish in China.