Suzhou people's spirit of eating noodles is exquisite at best, and melodramatic at worst. So today, let's take a look, how much can this bowl of Su-style noodle soup be? Melodramatic? .
Once upon a time since the Southern Song Dynasty.
Located in the land of fish and rice in the south of the Yangtze River, rice is indispensable for every meal. However, Suzhou people are particularly fond of noodles. If they don't eat them for a few days, they will feel uncomfortable all over.
It is hard to count how many noodle restaurants there are in Suzhou. They are like chain convenience stores in every city, and streets and lanes are everywhere.
In order to eat a bowl of delicious noodles, Suzhou people don't waste less time and gasoline. There are many people who want to drive to eat a bowl of noodles far away. ?
Whether it's a century-old brand or a corner fly shop, you can always see someone sitting in danger, a square table, a bench and a bowl of steaming noodles in front of them.
The history of Suzhou people eating noodles can be traced back to the Southern Song Dynasty.
With the invasion of Nomads, the royal family crossed to the south, and many northerners, married with children, came to the south of the Yangtze River, bringing with them not only a lot of wealth and population, but also the fusion and change of food tastes.
Pingjiang House in the Southern Song Dynasty, the blue part in the picture is the ancient city of Suzhou.
Except? Eat noodles in the north and rice in the south? In Meng Xi Bi Tan, I once introduced the important difference between the north and the south at that time: taking the Yangtze River as the boundary, southerners like to eat salty food, while northerners prefer to eat sweet food.
Of course, there are economic reasons behind this, because the Central Plains was obviously more developed at that time, and there were naturally more people who could afford sugar.
So if there are friends around you who spit out Suzhou food and Suzhou noodles are too sweet, please be sure to tell them, this mouth? Pot? It was originally shipped from the north.
Only Suzhou cherishes the chicken's head rice the most, by the fish that reads the moon.
Since then, Suzhou people have added a bowl of noodles to their dinner tables. However, Suzhou people rarely call it that, and they usually call it directly? Eat noodles? .
When in Rome, do as the Romans do, and the noodles soon sublimated in Suzhou.
During the Southern Song Dynasty, Kunshan was famous all over the world. Medicine chess face? ，? As thin as paper, it can be fed from a distance. Thin and thin, easy to store and carry, this is the ancestor of dried noodles.
Time turns, and a bowl of Su-style noodle soup finally comes out.
Soup, the soul of Soviet-style eternal noodles
Generally speaking, this bowl of noodles consists of three parts: soup, noodles and topping. Can you add another one for a more elegant one? Halogen/dew? .
However, the soul of a bowl of Su-style noodle soup can only be its soup forever. A good soup tastes euphemistically long, with indescribable deliciousness. If it is more salty, it will make people thirsty. If it is less, it will be weak, and it will inevitably be tasteless.
Therefore, the most important job of any Suzhou noodle restaurant is to hang soup.
Thanks to the media in recent years, many people know that meat bones, eel bones, shrimp shells, fish heads, snails and the like are always indispensable for hanging out a bowl of Su-style noodle soup.
But these are just ordinary ingredients, each noodle restaurant will have its own unique secret recipe, and some will add soybeans to make the soup more milky; Some will put a little wine to make the aftertaste more mellow.
For example, the famous Kunshan Aozao noodles are delicious only when fish are put into the water.
Diners who eat noodles in Kunshan Aozao Restaurant by Haisheng
But these are just face-saving efforts. The origin, variety and parts of the same ingredients are different, and the final taste is all? A drop in the bucket is a thousand miles away? .
Like shrimp, it must be fresh Taihu shrimp, and it must be attached to the shrimp brain, so that it can fly.
It's so meticulous on the face, not to mention the procedures and fire work of hanging soup. These are the kung fu in the bones, and the real secret is not passed on.
The rules of hanging soup are already so complicated, and the melodramatic thing has just begun.
A bowl of qualified Soviet-style noodle soup, its soup must be crystal clear, not muddy and greasy. This is also the kung fu of hanging soup. When a pot of soup is cooked to the end, no water should be added in the middle, and the soup should always be kept boiling. Never? Diantang? .
It is said that some noodle restaurants even cook this pot of soup around the clock, which is quite similar to the legendary old soup. This is because braised meat was used when hanging soup. Once the fire is turned off, a lot of fat will precipitate, and this pot of soup will be wasted.
Red soup and white soup
Su-style noodle soup is divided into two systems: red soup and white soup, but the color is actually richer. White soup, for example, will darken with the seasons.
The white soup in summer is the lightest in color, clear and refreshing. But it is not really white, it will add a little light soy sauce and bring a little goose yellow in the clarity.
For example, in recent years, the noodles in Maple Town, which have been on fire because of China on the tip of the tongue, are the classic models of white soup, with a bouquet of wine in the salty and sweet taste, and then a piece of fat and tender braised meat, so many troubles are forgotten.
Look how delicious Su Daqiang eats.
The red soup is naturally filled with soy sauce, but the soul has to be the soup after braised fish and eel. The red soup of Aozao noodles is a must, and a piece of fried fish with crispy outside and tender inside is a satisfying day.
Don't worry, the soup is not finished yet. What if this last finishing touch is missing? Juice? , it is not a Soviet-style noodle soup.
Juice? It is the marinade left at the bottom of the pot after boiling the meat for several hours, which is delicious.
Scoop a small spoon in a bowl first, and then pour it into the soup hanging in the cauldron. People with awkward mouths can taste the layers of clarity, fragrance, richness and freshness in one bite. This soup is complete and the soul of Suzhou.
Topping, how many people love you?
The most brilliant thing about a bowl of Su-style noodle soup is the topping, which is dazzling.
From Yangchun noodles without topping, to common braised pork, fried fish, shredded pork, assorted noodles and vegetarian noodles, as well as expensive and luxurious noodles with three shrimps.
Three shrimp noodles with a bowl of hundreds of dollars at a time.
There are so many toppings in the Soviet-style noodle soup that it broke the world record with 5 18 toppings a few years ago, and some shops even launched a bowl of Australian lobster noodles with thousands of dollars, which can be used as toppings for everything.
Toppings can be divided into two categories according to the practice, which are prepared in advance and fried and burned now. Some friends must be wondering, they must eat freshly cooked food. Who has eaten it for a long time?
This is just that I don't know much about toppings, such as braised meat and fried fish. This kind of toppings must be made overnight and sold early the next morning, otherwise it would be too late to make them. I'm afraid I'll have to sit in the noodle restaurant all day if I really want to eat now.
There are so many toppings in Suzhou noodle restaurant that a table is full of them.
Moreover, the most suitable cold topping for braised meat is to soak it at the bottom of the bowl first and suck enough soup, which is the most enjoyable way to eat.
However, some toppings must be fried now, such as fried eels, shrimps and fried kidney flowers. They are delicious when they are just out of the pot, but they are not good enough if they are a little cold.
Crab noodles, such toppings are really heroic.
There is a special delicacy in the freshly fried toppings that only belongs to Changshu. Yushan mushroom oil noodles are not as famous as Aozao noodles, but they are the favorite hometown flavor of local people.
Among the wild edible fungi in Yushan, pine mushroom is the best, which is known as? The king of vegetarian food? , too? Mushroom noodles? The best ingredients.