Keywords mutton bread in soup; Snack culture
Shaanxi is delicious, especially xi 'an's beef and mutton bread in soup is the most famous. Well-cooked, thick and mellow ingredients, thick carrion soup, fat but not greasy, rich in nutrition, full of fragrance, attractive appetite, endless aftertaste after eating. Because it warms the stomach and fights hunger, it has always been loved by people of all ethnic groups in Xi 'an and northwest China. Foreign guests must taste it first when they come to Shaanxi to satisfy their appetite. Since the founding of New China, especially in recent years, it has been used to entertain international friends and has been well received. Beef and mutton paomo has become the "general representative" of Shaanxi famous food.
The origin of the famous snack "mutton bread in soup" has become a mystery so far. There are about four kinds of "mutton buns in soup" in Shaanxi: northern Shaanxi, Muslim, xi and Ganzhou. The specific method is similar, the taste is roughly the same, but the difference is obvious. This paper will analyze the cultural connotation of Ganzhou's "mutton bread in soup" from its differences.
? First, the launch of "mutton bread in soup"?
? In the Western Zhou Dynasty, mutton soup was listed as a "gift" for emperors and princes. According to the Book of Song Dynasty, Mao Xiuzhi in the Northern and Southern Dynasties was appointed as the official of Tailing by Emperor Wu because of the delicious mutton soup, and was later promoted to Dr. Guanglu, a senior minister. 1400 years ago, in the Sui Dynasty, Xie had a beautiful dish that satirized the classic food, called "Don't pay attention to mutton soup". According to documents, palaces and shops in the Tang Dynasty were good at making soup. On the third day, instead of cooking for me, I washed my hands to make bridal soup. Mutton soup is the soup cooked with mutton, which is the embryonic form of beef and mutton paomo today.
? It is recorded in ancient art books such as Sun Tzu's Art of War and Sima Fa that during the Qin Dynasty's unified war, Qin Jun's main military food was meat pie. War has the practical function of communication and learning. From the above, we can get the basic historical facts: the emergence and development of the snack "mutton bread in soup" has a historical and cultural background.
? Second, the cultural connotation of "mutton bread in soup" in Ganzhou
? (A) inclusive, heavy and rich
? No matter what the earliest version of this snack is, there are at least several versions, several ways to eat and several ways to do it in Shaanxi. Ganzhou version of "mutton bread in soup" is very different from other methods of bread in soup, and has richer cultural connotation.
Ganzhou, now called Ganxian County, is located in Xianyang City, Shaanxi Province. It is an important grain producing area in Guanzhong area. It is adjacent to Liquan in the east, Liquan County, Fufeng and Linyou in the west, bounded by Qishui River, Xingping and Wugong in the south and Yongshou in the north. Ganxian was called a good place to worship heaven in the era of the Yellow Emperor. It was the territory of Yongzhou in the Xia Dynasty, qi zhou in the Shang Dynasty and Qin in the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period. In the second year of Tang Zhaozong Ganning (895), Fengtian County was established in Ganzhou. In 2 years (19 13), Ganzhou was changed to Ganxian. Ganxian is also a famous historical and cultural city in Shaanxi Province. Ganling, the only female emperor in the history of China and Emperor Li Zhi of Gaozong, is located in Ganxian County. In addition to "mutton bread in soup", there are also "Ganzhou Four Treasures of the Study"-Guo kui, dried noodles, dried bean curd, crispy noodles with unique flavor, and many famous China snacks, such as Chili sauce and bean paste.
From the ancient "mutton soup" to the present "mutton bread in soup", Ganzhou's "mutton bread in soup" itself can find the shadow of Muslim beef mutton soup, Xi 'an's "bread in soup" and northern Shaanxi's "bread in soup", and at the same time it has something it doesn't have: sugar garlic, pepper sesame oil, coriander, chopped green onion, tofu, fungus, vermicelli and other complementary dishes.
Ganzhou's "mutton bread in soup" also has rich characteristics. Snacks in one place must be closely related to people in another place. Mutton bone stew, delicious mutton, pot helmet as food, and various side dishes are oily but not greasy, fragrant and delicious.
Eat this kind of food, tell a few stories about Song Taizu mutton bread in soup, shout a few words of Shaanxi opera, squat in front of your house, with a big bowl in your hand and a mouthful of oil in your mouth. Ganxian people are simple and flexible, so this kind of food naturally has inclusive, heavy and rich cultural characteristics.
? (2) Abide by faith and strive for the future.
The "mutton bread in soup" in Ganzhou is different from ordinary food. It not only requires chefs to be skilled and meticulous in cooking steamed buns, cook the meat, cutting meat and cooking steamed buns, but also requires diners to cooperate closely with chefs and pay attention to "breaking steamed buns" and "eating". The "mutton bread in soup" in Ganzhou is definitely a slow food, and it has always been the custom for guests to break their own cakes. Even with the rapid development, it has not changed. Even today's Xi 'an Paomo silently provides customers with broken and broken services, Ganzhou "mutton Paomo" still adheres to this persistence.
The "steamed bread" in Ganzhou paomo itself uses the "Ganzhou Guokui", one of the "Four Treasures of Ganzhou". This kind of steamed bread tastes excellent, and it is delicious when used alone to sandwich peppers. People in Ganxian still don't choose to use other steamed buns instead because of the cost. Mutton and sheep bones are also goats specially raised by merchants themselves. If you choose the right time to slaughter, cook the meat and make soup, you won't buy raw materials directly from market vendors because of trouble.
Seasonings and ingredients are carefully selected, and each process must be supervised by the most experienced master in the store.
There are some things that remain unchanged in the "mutton bread in soup" in Ganxian County:
First of all, there has never been a brand store like "Laosunjia" and "Huimin Street" in Ganxian County, and the paomo shop in Ganxian County has almost no inheritance. It's never the real thing. The operation of "mutton bread in soup" in Ganzhou is more like a feeling, seeking a balance between compensation and income, good and bad. After returning to my hometown from Laogan County for many years, no one dared to tell friends which shop's paomo was authentic.
Secondly, there has never been a snack that can stand like "beef and mutton in soup". People in Ganxian only recognize the truth and never compromise.
Secondly, the "mutton bread in soup" in Ganxian always operates in small restaurants and stores, which may be disdainful or cost-conscious. Grand hotels never serve such famous snacks. In Xi 'an, you can eat at Lao Sun's house. In Ganxian, you must find a small storefront and politely ask your fellow villagers, "Which is your authentic paomo?"
Material selection and technology are always strict, and word of mouth is the most important thing. Other things can be absorbed in Ganzhou paomo. Isn't this persistence and flexibility the character of Ganxian people?
Three. Concluding remarks
Gan county, located in the northwest, is accompanied by the metropolis Xi 'an. The same cultural heritage comes down in one continuous line, but the difference is that "mutton paomo" adheres to the stubborn "unchangeable". As such a food, it comes from history and is still loved and respected by modern people. Its taste is heavy, fragrant and beautiful, and its connotation is inclusive. It abides by its duties like Ganxian people, and at the same time it is a model for carrying forward the past and opening up the future.