I always feel that autumn has come quietly. After a rain, there is a chill in the morning and evening, before I retreat from the heat of summer and plunge into the tenderness of clear autumn.
After 2500 years of spring and autumn, the ancient city of Suzhou, osmanthus flowers began to fall in autumn, and the city was full of fragrance, red maple and yellow leaves, which set off pavilions and pavilions, as if dreaming of the ancient Gusu City.
Suzhou in autumn is Pingjiang Road with a small bridge and flowing water, a tiger hill where ginkgo leaves fall everywhere, a humble administrator's garden where fallen leaves have spread for thousands of years, and a Jinji Lake where you can listen to the wind quietly.
Suzhou in autumn is a hairy crab with rich and sweet petals of chrysanthemum yellow wine, sugar-fried chestnuts with sweet osmanthus fragrance, the freshest Taihu Lake with three colors and the juiciest fresh meat moon cakes.
Gusu city, which began to smell sweet-scented osmanthus in September, is still a little hot in late summer and a little warm in early autumn.
It has the warmth of chicken head rice syrup and the freshness of Soviet mung bean soup; Paired with explosive eel noodles and fresh sweet crab noodles.
As a pioneer who pays attention to seasonal aesthetics, Suzhou people will deduce it to the extreme from time to time in every season.
What's the smell of autumn? I think Suzhou can tell you the answer.
I have to come just for this autumn.
/hairy crabs/
It is said that the autumn wind makes crab feet itch. As soon as autumn comes, everyone begins to expect more food on the table.
In September, the female crabs are plump, and in1October, the male crabs are oily and fleshy. However, whether it is a female crab or a male crab, in the eyes of Suzhou people, all the crabs that can be eaten in the season are good crabs.
At this time of year, more and more people drive to Yangcheng Lake. For old Suzhou, this is an indispensable sense of ceremony in autumn.
/Chicken head rice/
How much do Suzhou people love chicken head rice to think of putting chicken head rice and coffee together?
Chicken's head rice, which is three points sweet and seven points soft and waxy, can't stop Suzhou people's love for it. Although the picking process is complicated, the price of artificial shelling is slightly higher.
Suzhou people's autumn begins with this bowl of chicken's head rice paste.
/Fresh meat moon cake/
As soon as autumn comes, we begin to look forward to it, and there are fresh meat moon cakes.
Even though moon cakes are surging in the rivers and lakes, in Suzhou people's minds, only fresh meat moon cakes are Bai Yueguang forever.
Fresh meat moon cakes just out of the pot, the outer crispy skin has a burnt taste, and the inner crispy skin is permeated with fresh meat juice.
Meat is eight points thinner and two points fatter. When the gravy is bitten open, it begins to flow between the lips and teeth. No one in Suzhou can refuse this wonderful feeling.
Shop recommendation: regular cakes, moon cakes with fresh meat and dried raw materials.
A bowl of noodles hides the freshness of autumn.
I always think that Jiangnan people eat as much noodles as northerners.
The difference is that Jiangnan people are more meticulous in making noodles and have higher seasonal requirements for ingredients, especially Jiangnan people and Suzhou people.
Weijiao noodles
As a famous noodle in Suzhou, the soup base is clear, fresh and sweet, and the noodles are slightly raw. Coupled with seasonal toppings, this bowl of Austrian-looking noodles is Bai Yueguang in the eyes of Suzhou people.
Weijiao noodle restaurant hides the most authentic flavor of Suzhou.
The signature of their family is fried eel and shrimp noodles, which are rich in color and delicious. The fried eel segments are fat and mellow, and the shrimps are crystal clear and tender.
But I'm not good at eel, and I prefer his braised pork noodles. Big red meat is fat but not greasy, fat meat is soft and tender, and lean meat is crisp and slippery. A bowl is simply enough!
Address: No.266 Baita East Road
Tong Dexing boutique noodles
I don't know if you still have any impression of Fengzhen Meat Noodles in tip 2.
When I first saw this bowl of noodles, I was really greedy for many years. I just want to grow up quickly. Suzhou unlocks the taste!
It is said that Su-style noodles, cold red noodle soup and hot white soup.
Now this season, come to a bowl of seemingly ordinary white noodle soup, and shallots float on the delicious and mellow soup base, which looks very refreshing.
Put a piece of chilled meat on it, more will make you fat and less will make you firewood. This meat goes well with wine, what's more!
Address: No.6 Jiayufang (opposite to the Central Blood Station)
Yuxingji
Suzhou people pay attention to seasonality, which can be seen from a bowl of three fresh noodles. Every early summer, countless gourmets flock to Suzhou just to limit their delicacies.
Three-shrimp noodles, consisting of shrimp, shrimp brain and shrimp, are sweet and palatable, and shrimp seeds and shrimp brain are drenched with three shrimps with delicate fragrance, which is full of beautiful scenery in Jiangnan water town.
After entering Suzhou in early autumn, the three fresh shrimp noodles are out of season, the scenery is flowing, and the crab noodles arrive as scheduled. Shrimp is crystal clear, noodles are soaked in the golden luster of crab yellow, and each one is full of the beauty of gold, oil and butter.
After a while, the butter will be on the line, and the food in Suzhou is really not greasy in one season!
Address: Block D, East Bank of Performing Arts Center, No.523 Jingde Road
Unique Soviet dessert
It is the exclusive source of happiness for Suzhou people.
Zixiaoxiang drinks shop
Suzhou people are meticulous about food and have feelings for mung bean soup.
Half a cup of cool and sweet mint water, plus rich ingredients such as glutinous rice: soft boiled mung beans, steamed glutinous rice, sweet winter melon candy and candied dates, raisins and red and green silk in childhood memories. ...
It is full of solid mung bean soup, which is extremely refreshing.
Address: No.53 Dinghuisi Lane
Pan Yu Tang Lin Zhou Tan
Pan Yulin's sugar porridge, which was brought up by Suzhou people for generations, is already a well-known food base in this area, although it is only a small sugar porridge stall.
Although his reputation is abroad, it does not affect his tunnel. Many locals in the team bought some copies to take home.
There are not many kinds in their family, only sugar porridge, red bean dumplings and wine dumplings.
In autumn, osmanthus will be added to jiaozi. This sweet-scented osmanthus red bean paste dumpling has both the softness and sweetness of red beans and the delicate Q-bomb of glutinous rice dumplings. All kinds of flavors collide on the tip of the tongue, as if falling into a sweet whirlpool.
Address: No.46 Pishi Street and Shi Jia Lane.
Wu Dong Sujinji mung bean soup
In Suzhou, where the summer heat has not completely dissipated, people are still addicted to the happiness of mung bean soup.
The coolness of mint, the sweetness of red and green silk and winter melon candy, and the perfection of glutinous rice ... it seems that eating a spoonful in a hot afternoon can blow away all the boredom hanging over your head.
But this season, there is another kind of food worth looking forward to every year.
Only in this season can you eat chicken head rice paste, which is slightly sweet but not greasy. Chicken head rice has a different flavor when chewed. This is a rare delicacy, so you must taste it as soon as possible.
Address: Room 39, Gongxiang 10 1.
Mingyuelou gaotuan branch
When it comes to desserts in Suzhou, there must be all kinds of soft and glutinous cakes.
Exquisite and delicate green meatballs, red bean lard cakes with bright colors, pine nuts with pine flowers, sweet and delicate bean paste ... The seasons in the south of the Yangtze River are beautiful, all in these lovely dumplings.
Although the season hasn't passed, you can still enjoy jiaozi, the fried meat with fine eyes.
Palm-sized meatballs are covered with diced meat, shrimps and shredded bamboo shoots. ...
When you buy it, you will pour a spoonful of sauce in the opening. This slightly sweet soul sauce not only shows the freshness, but also makes the whole jiaozi look shiny and attractive, and it will be fresh in one bite!
Address: No.36 Shuyuan Lane
Jiangnan crab shell yellow
Crab shell yellow, which looks a bit like sesame seed cake, is called "crab shell yellow" because the skin is yellow after baking and looks like a cooked crab shell.
"I didn't see the cake maker smell the fragrance first, and the pastry came down one after another." Crab shell yellow is the favorite snack of Suzhou people. This old shop is the most authentic crab shell yellow shop in Suzhou.
There are only three flavors, shredded radish, scallion oil and sesame. The freshly baked crab shell has a thick yellow strange smell. Bite one piece and it's crispy, peeling off layer by layer. I like sesame candy best, and the invagination is finely divided black sesame and white sugar, which is sweet but not greasy and full of fragrance.
Address: Xinmin Bridge Vegetable Market, Guangji Road
Gusu snacks can be salty and sweet.
Xinzhenyuan Suzhou shrimp fried-dumpling
Although Shanghai is famous for fried noodles, in fact, as the birthplace of fried steamed bread, Soviet-style fried noodles are not inferior.
Suzhou people have been eating fried steamed bread for hundreds of years. A guest with fried steamed bread and a bowl of small wonton can even replace the position of Su-style noodles in Suzhou people's hearts.
The reason why so many people like to eat fried new Zhenyuan is because it is really impeccable.
The skin is golden and crisp, the stuffing is full of soup, the skin is solid, sesame is fragrant, the meat is fresh and the taste is intertwined. With a sweet-scented osmanthus bean paste, this soft and sweet combination is Suzhou.
Address: No.2 Shantang Street
Xinxiang food store
I prefer the fragrance of Suzhou's old foundation to Lili's spicy feet.
Mothers who bring their children to feed are all familiar with the old three: braised chicken feet, sweet-scented osmanthus red bean dumplings and curry chicken rolls. This old shop, which grew up eating by itself, has a different kind of intimacy when eating with children.
The most classic fragrance is braised chicken feet.
Chicken feet with rich and fragrant sauce have been stewed very soft and rotten. With a gentle bite, the flesh and blood can be divided, even the bones are crisp and rotten, but I think it would be perfect if I could cut off the toes of chicken jio.
Address: 783 Shiquan Street
Le Hui wonton store
Although people in Suzhou think the wonton restaurant downstairs is the best, there are still some wonton restaurants, which always need young people from hundreds of miles to punch in and need familiar old Suzhou. Le Hui is such a wonton restaurant.
The skin of bubble wonton is very thin, and the powdery meat stuffing inside is also exposed, and the skin is smooth and tender.
Many people eat bubble wonton for the first time, always complaining that the meat here is not as rich as Lanzhou Lamian Noodles. In fact, bubble wonton focuses on drinking soup, and the soup base boiled with bone soup is clear but not turbid, which is very delicious. This kind of bubble wonton is a familiar taste to Suzhou people.
Besides wonton, their fresh meat jiaozi is also worth a try. Bite open the soft glutinous rice skin, delicious gravy flows directly into your mouth, and the meat is slightly sweet. Suzhou people make dumplings that are really delicious!
Address: No.44, Qufang Wu.
Wudeju
This Hutongkou food store sells boiled chicken in summer and autumn and lion's head in winter and spring, which perfectly soothes Suzhou people's stomachs.
Their white-cut chicken has elastic skin, bloody skin and frozen bones, and it is served with shrimp soy sauce made in the store. Tender chicken is stimulated by soy sauce, which makes people feel kind and familiar. No wonder old Suzhou people are willing to queue up to take delicious food home.
Address: No.0/35, Taohuawu Street, Xi Zhong.
Subang delicious food eaten from time to time.
Eating is a special thing.
Pearl restaurant
Suzhou people pay attention to freshness, which permeates three meals a day. They don't eat regularly, and pay attention to the delicacy and delicacy of food, which is light and sweet, which can be described as high and low.
This Subang American restaurant, which has been passed down from mouth to mouth, is a delicious food hidden in the corner and a daily canteen full of fireworks.
It's time to eat chicken head rice again, and Pearl Hotel also serves seasonal dishes: fried shrimp with chicken head rice and sweet-scented osmanthus-flavored chicken head rice syrup.
Chicken head rice with natural flavor, whether it is sweet with osmanthus or refreshing with fresh shrimp, has a very good taste in late summer.
Besides, sweet and sour mandarin fish, delicious eel paste, mussel cauliflower, sweet-scented osmanthus and lotus root in Pearl Hotel are all the most authentic Soviet-style flavors and worth a try.
Address: No.9 Pearl Lane.
Huachi 88 Chinese restaurant
As the only black pearl diamond in Suzhou, every time someone in the circle of friends goes to Suzhou, they can see the positioning of the restaurant.
Fairy-scented Soviet-style cold dishes, fragrant drunken shrimp, sweet-scented osmanthus lotus root with soft waxy taste, crispy jellyfish head with delicious taste. ...
Ordinary ingredients have different combinations, but they have a wonderful aesthetic feeling and a sense of exquisite ceremony, which is worthy of being Hyatt.
There are many delicious dishes, and roast duck with fruit and wood is a must, but what I want to say is this simple lotus pond cooking and chicken head rice with asparagus and mushrooms.
Lotus root, water chestnut, green beans and chicken head rice are all seasonal vegetables. The combination of the two has both the aesthetic feeling of color and the seasonal feeling in late summer and early autumn. They are tender, crisp and sweet, and a dish of cooking reveals that black pearl diamonds live up to their reputation.
Address: Floor 2, Hyatt Regency Hotel, No.88 Huachi Street
Xinjufeng cookshop
Xinjufeng Restaurant, founded in last century 1904, has a history of 1 16 years. Duck, a single-pot tanker, has become a housekeeping dish in the store and conquered the picky tongues of Suzhou urban gourmets.
Adding Sichuan winter vegetables, chives, shredded pork and other ingredients to the duck belly, and seasoning it with Suzhou famous mother oil (high-quality soy sauce baked from dog days to autumn), this kind of "mother tanker duck" can only be made by Suzhou people who pay attention to exquisite and elegant diet.
Now the new hurricane pays more attention to "freshness".
Bibimbap with crab powder tofu looks good. The original fried shrimp, soft and delicious cherry juice meat, fresh and tender fried fish slices, and fleshy shredded eel ... You must bring 128G stomach every time you go to Suzhou!
Come to Suzhou for two days in early autumn.
The warmth of Suzhou, the exquisiteness of Suzhou, and the Millennium charm of Gusu City are all memorable.
Today's discussion
Where are you going to play on National Day?