Bazhen is the earliest cooking method of eight precious foods. "Zhou Li Tian Guan Shan Fu" notes: "Where the king feeds, he eats six grains, eats six animals for meals, drinks six liquors, and puts a hundred and twenty articles on shame. Jane uses eight things, and sauce uses 100 jars. Every day, there are two things in the tripod, and everything is delicious to eat. " The translation of this passage is: the son of heaven eats six cereals, uses six kinds of livestock, drinks six kinds of drinks, and has 120 products for shame. There are eight kinds of shame, and there are 120 jars of sauce and vinegar. The son of heaven has three meals a day, with twelve tripod utensils and twelve utensils for holding meat and vegetables. Have fun while eating to persuade the son of heaven to eat more. Here, the six grains refer to: grain surplus (rice), millet (yellow rice), millet (millet), sorghum (wheat) and wild rice (water bamboo). Six animals refer to: cattle, sheep, tapirs, dogs, geese (geese) and fish. Six clear fingers; Water, pulp (mash, that is, thick juice), fermented grains (sweet wine), cold (water wine), medicine (plum pulp), and glutinous rice (porridge). There are also six Lu: Mi (moose), deer, bear, roe (roe deer), wild boar and rabbit. Six birds: wild goose, quail (quail), swallow bird, pheasant, dove and pigeon. The so-called eight treasures, refers to the pure boil, the pure mother, the cannon dolphin, the cannon roe, the treasure, the stain, the boil and the liver.

These eight kinds of rare food cooking methods are translated as follows-

Chunkao: The Book of Rites explains: "Chunkao, fried sugar, added to the upland rice, wozhi with cream." Sugar is meat sauce. Cover the rice with meat sauce and pour in animal fat.

Chunmu: Interpretation of Book of Rites Internal Rules; "Chun mother, fry the sugar, add it to the millet food, and make it paste." It's similar to Chunkao, except that Chunmu poured meat sauce on the rice. In fact, Chunkao and Chunmu are today's 1.1% rice.

Gun dolphin, bubble roe (sheep): the word gun originated from the gun punishment in the Yin Dynasty, that is, the copper column was heated with charcoal to make the sinner stand on the hot column. Cannonboarding is used in cooking, that is, baking muddy pigs and sheep on urgent fire. "Book of Rites Neize" explains: "If you take a dolphin as a cannon, you will cut it (it should be a ewe) and [Gui Li Dao], which is actually a date in your belly, and you can make it up and paint it with caution. Gun, tu are dry, break it. If you rub it, it will be replaced by skin, which is the thought of rice flour (rice flea). If you pay the dolphin and fry the paste, the paste will be reduced. The giant wok soup is spread with small saucers, so that the soup will not be reduced, and the fire will not be extinguished for three days and three nights, and then it will be adjusted with acyl. " The gun method recorded in the Book of Rites is that after slaughtering pigs and sheep, the organs are removed, dates are filled in the belly, tied with straw ropes, coated with sticky mud and barbecued in the fire. After baking the sticky mud, break it off to dry it, and peel off a film on the epidermis. Then use rice flour to make paste and apply it to pigs and sheep. Then, put oil in the small tripod without pigs and sheep suffering, put herbs in the tripod, and put the small tripod in the big tripod filled with soup. The soup in the big pot can't boil into the small pot. The fire continued for three days and nights, and the soup in the big tripod boiled with the oil in the small tripod. Three days later, the pot of pork, pig and sheep was crispy and dipped in vinegar and meat sauce.

Jane: It is to take the tenderloin of herbivores such as cattle, sheep, pigs, deer and roe deer, beat them repeatedly, remove their tendons and mash them into minced meat. The word "for the handle" and the word "Dao" have the same meaning. "Book of Rites Internal Rules": "Jane, if you take the meat of cattle, sheep, elk, and elk, you must be [moon ash]. Everything is the same as the cow. Beat it, turn it upside down, remove its bait, cook it, take it out, remove it [shake its right hand and replace it with skin] and soften its meat." This means that the tenderloin of these animals is pounded repeatedly, and then the film is removed after cooking, and mixed with vinegar and meat sauce.

Waterlogging: "Book of Rites Internal Rules": "Waterlogging, if you take beef, you will kill new people. If you cut it thinly, you will have to be strict with it. Show all kinds of fine wine and eat it in the future, so as to make it sour and [unitary]." Fresh beef, sliced horizontally, soaked in good wine for a day, blended with meat sauce, plum pulp and vinegar and eaten. [Unitary meaning] Plum pulp.

Cook: "Book of Rites Internal Rules": "Beat it off [shake the right side and replace it with skin], weave it, spread beef, sprinkle cinnamon and ginger on it, salt it, and eat it dry. The same is true for sheep. Elk, deer and geese are all like cattle and sheep. If you want to simmer the meat, release it and fry it. If you want to dry meat, you will eat it. " It means: pound the raw meat, remove the fascia, spread it on a mat made of reed grass, sprinkle ginger and cinnamon on it, soak it in salt and dry it before eating. If you want to eat something with juice, moisten it with water and fry it with meat sauce. If you want to eat dry meat, pound it until it is soft, similar to beef jerky today.

Liver: "Take a dog's liver, and use it to change its strength into the moon, and use moxibustion to change its edge from the reef to the fire, and use it to change its strength into the moon." Take a dog liver, cover it with dog net oil, and burn it on the fire. [the force of labor is replaced by the moon], which is the net oil. Wait until the wet oil dries, and you won't suffer when you eat it. Polygonum hydropiper was used as food at that time. "Take rice, lift [rice flea], and cut the paste of Wolf [Yueshu] in small pieces, so as to make rice the best." Mix rice flour with water, add small pieces of wolf breast fat and boil it into thick porridge.

Besides these eight treasures, there is another cooking method: San. "Book of Rites Neize" explains: "Nao, take three kinds of meat from cattle and sheep, and cut it into rice. Two pieces of rice and one piece of meat are used as bait and fried. " Divide cattle, sheep and pork into three equal parts. Two portions of rice flour and one portion of synthetic cake are fried in oil. Similar to today's meat pie.

In the era of the Emperor of Zhou, it was most important for emperors to eat fat. The Book of Songs: "Bo Shuo Fei [Moon Shield]" [Moon Shield] is a fat pig. At that time, fat pigs and sheep should be chosen for sacrifice and food. The word "tapir" in Oracle Bone Inscriptions is the symbol of castration of boar. The ancients invented castration long ago, and through castration, pork was fattened. The Zhou dynasty began to dismember and eat meat. The pig was roughly divided into seven parts called "seven bodies" and subdivided into twenty-one parts called "body solution". All ministries are entrusted with names. For example, [the chopped grain is replaced by meat] (large meat), prion (meat on both sides), [tenderloin] (tenderloin) and [moon ash] (tenderloin). Take the pig as an example. At that time, the most precious of all the parts of the pig was actually a very fat "neck", that is, the fat part under the pig's neck, which is called "bad head meat" today. "The Book of Jin Xie Hun Biography" notes: "Yuan Di started to build a business in the town, and the public and private affairs were exhausted. Every time I get a dolphin, I think it's a rare meal, and I'll give you a cup of You Mei to commend the emperor. I didn't dare to eat under the group, so I called it (forbidden). " At that time, Xiangzhong was dedicated to the emperor, and the ministers were afraid to eat it, so it was called "Forbidden".

At that time, the ancients made good use of dates, chestnuts, preserves and honey, and made good use of fat oil, which was good for frying and making soup. Its soup, beef with tender bean sprouts, mutton with celery and pork with Osmunda japonica. Use all kinds of sauces. Eat dried meat slices with ant egg sauce, dried meat porridge with rabbit meat sauce, cooked elk meat slices with fish meat sauce, fish fillets with mustard sauce, Hu rice with snail meat sauce, rice with dog meat sauce, caviar for cooking fish, and meat sauce for roast chicken. There are 120 kinds of sauces.

At that time, the ancients used six grains, six animals, six beasts and six birds. He also warned that six kinds of food were poisonous and fasted. These six kinds of things are: cows that bark at night and stink, sheep with messy hair and smelly smell, pigs that are night-blind and smelly, birds with dry feathers and hoarse cries, Sao dogs with depilated tails, and sick horses with black backs and festering spots on one leg.

He also warned: "Don't eat young turtles. The wolf goes to the intestines, the dog goes to the kidneys, the cat goes to the spine (the bobcat goes to the spine), the rabbit goes to the tail end of the spine, the fox goes to the head, the dolphin goes to the brain, the fish goes to B (the bone next to the fish eye), and the turtle goes to ugliness (that is, the skull). " "The young tail is not full of grip, and it eats Shu Yancui, Siniperca chuatsi, Yan Pang, Shu Yancui, chicken liver, goose kidney, ostrich and deer stomach." Bird's tail is less than a grip, goose and duck's tail, thin meat beside the ribs of swans and owls, chicken liver, kidney of geese, spleen gland of bustard (a bird bigger than geese) and deer's stomach can't be eaten.

Eight treasures in the Zhou Dynasty were originally the cooking methods of eight rare foods, and later became synonymous with precious foods. "The Biography of the Three Kingdoms Wei Wei Ji": "Dietary dishes must have the taste of eight treasures." Bao Shenjun has a poem: "Eight treasures are full of carvings, and the dishes are wrong." With the passage of time, the contents of Eight Treasures have been continuously enriched. In Tang poetry, Du Fu's words "red camel-humps are brought them from jade broilers, and sweet fish is ordered them on crystal trays" and "Huangmenfei" (the right side of the saddle word is replaced by an empty word) don't move the dust, and bring precious dishes constantly from the imperial kitchen "indicate that there were already two dishes, hump and white fish, in the Eight Treasures of Chef at that time, and both aquatic products and mountain products entered the Eight Treasures. In the Yuan Dynasty, two new Eight Treasures, which were completely different from the Eight Treasures of the Zhou Dynasty, appeared in the historical materials. According to the history of the Yuan Dynasty, the two new eight treasures, one is; Dragon liver, phoenix marrow, leopard fetus, carp tail, roasted owl, scarlet lip, bear's paw, crispy buttered cicada. Among them, Long Gan, Liu Ruoyu's "The History of the Ming Palace Fire Collection" recorded that the dragon eggs were actually the eggs of the white stallion in October in the Ming Palace. By analogy, the dragon liver is probably the liver of Baima. Owls are owls. Crispy buttered cicada, "it is made of sheep fat." "Notes on Liuyanzhai": "It is a crisp snail today, and its shape and snail are not good at the beginning, but it looks like a cicada's belly." It is a kind of dairy product similar to cicada belly. The other eight treasures are: quince (high-grade cream), swallow (small roe's neck), wild camel's hoof, deer's lips, milu deer (small milu deer), roasted swan, purple jade paste and xuanyu paste (jade paste is today's horse's milk).

In the Ming and Qing Dynasties, there were eight treasures of land and water: sea cucumber, shark's fin, fish crisp bone, fish belly, bird's nest, bear's paw, deer tendon and clam mold. There are eight treasures of the mountain: bear's paw, deer's tail, elephant trunk (one says it's stubborn), hump, civet, leopard fetus, lion's milk and macaque head. There are eight treasures of water: shark's fin, fish lip, sea cucumber, abalone, skirt, scallop, fish crisp bone and frog. Later, there were two kinds of statements about the eight treasures of the upper, middle and lower levels.

Eight treasures: A: Scarlet Lip, Hump, Hericium erinaceus, Bear's Paw, Bird's Nest, Preserved Bread, Deer Tendon and Yellow Lip Gum. B: Scarlet lips, bird's nest, hump, bear's paw, leopard fetus, deer tendon, frog and Hericium erinaceus.

Eight treasures: A: shark's fin, tremella, civet, broad belly, mud carp, frog, fish lips and skirt. B: Shark's fin, fishbone, arowana sausage, radix aconiti, tripe, abalone, scallop, abalone.

The next eight treasures: A: sea cucumber, Gracilaria lemaneiformis, Tricholoma giganteum, Sichuan bamboo shoots, red scale fish, Jiangxi Yaozhu, oyster yellow and mullet eggs. B: Sichuan bamboo shoots, tremella, Tricholoma giganteum, Hericium erinaceus, skirts, fish lips, mullet eggs and civets.

The name of Eight Treasures was later used more and more badly.

There is a saying of "Little Eight Treasures" in the Record of Yangzhou Painting Boat: "Small Eight Treasures are sold in casual hotels and temples without fireworks. Such as spring and summer bamboo shoots, tooth bamboo shoots, Chinese toon, early leek, fungus and lettuce. In autumn and winter, there are edamame, celery, water melon, radish, winter bamboo shoots and pickles. The aquarium has fresh shrimps, screws and smoked fish. Livestock are frozen hoofs, dried salted ducks, fried chickens and smoked chickens. "

"Bashang set eight fresh line. Eight fresh ones, ling, lotus root, taro, persimmon, shrimp, crab, chela, radish. "

Vegetables can also enter Bazhen. There are "Eight Treasures in Early Summer" in Yangzhou Prose: "When spreading customs and flying flowers, mud carp, cherry, bamboo shoot, amaranth, broad bean, garlic sprout, wheat kernel and flowering radish are listed as eight treasures in early summer."

Classified eight treasures throughout the year.

There is also "Bazhen Soup". In the Beijing Opera Four Scholars, Sun Shulin is good at making eight treasures soup. This soup is a Shanxi food method, which is said to be a longevity soup prepared by Fu Qingzhu to honor his mother. His mother took this soup and lived to eighty-four. Later, the law was passed on to the folk Ga family, who opened a "Qingheyuan" shop in Taiyuan to specialize in this soup. This soup is made of mutton, sheep fat oil, yam, lotus root, stewed noodles (steamed wheat flour), astragalus root, yellow wine and yellow distiller's grains juice. Mutton, yam and lotus root are all rotten and crisp like porridge, with the smell of wine and wheat. You can't drink this soup with salt, and you can't add soy sauce and vinegar when you eat it. You can only drink it lightly. Old Shanxi people drink this soup in winter and March, just as old Beijing drinks bean juice. This soup has the effects of suppressing yin and tonifying yang, nourishing qi and blood, resisting cold and relieving asthma. It ranks first among the top ten famous foods of Jin people.

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