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Why do Suzhou people emphasize on "noodles in head soup"?

Suzhou noodle soup is a famous dish that is full of color and flavor, and belongs to the Suzhou cuisine. The so-called first soup is the first batch of noodles cooked with fresh water when the noodle store opens for the first day. Many people who have eaten noodles in Suzhou remember the scene, with a bowl of imitation celadon porcelain, a variety of table numbers on the four-sided table, a few green cabbage hearts in the noodle soup, and sesame oil and green onions floating on the noodles. Many of the older generation of Suzhou people have the impression that in the past in the Songhe Lou a few cents can eat a bowl of authentic head soup noodles.

A good noodle soup is characterized by "three hots": hot noodles, hot soup, and hot bowls, which can make you sweat even in the dead of winter. The "old Suzhou" people will naturally eat while hot, three or five minutes to finish the noodles as well, so that is the original flavor.

Even if it is a bowl of Yangchun noodles, because the noodles have absorbed the broth made from the meat bones, just eating the noodles is enough to feel the strong flavor.

The Suzhou people are naturally fond of this dish.

I've been to Suzhou before, and I love this kind of noodles.

Suzhou people are famous for their love of noodles in soup, so what are some of the best noodle restaurants in Suzhou that you can't miss?

Today, I went to eat a bowl of Sufa Pot Noodles with my friends, which has been retired for more than half a century. The first soup noodle is afraid to catch up, purposely wrong morning rush hour to slow down the past.

As soon as the noodles were served, we were busy taking photos, and Uncle Han came over to our table and laughed when he saw that we hadn't touched our chopsticks yet.

"In the past, pot noodles were eaten by 3 or 4 people, and the bowl was so big," said Mr. Han, gesturing with his hand at the size of a basin. "When I was a child, I had to eat it with adults, and there used to be more oil, and the oil floated straight to my mouth, and it was delicious."

Five meat and five veg, commonly known as five blessings.

Five meat: peeled pancetta, Kai Yang, dried scallops, trotters, shrimp

Five vegetarian: mushrooms, fungus, golden needles, bamboo shoots, oil gluten

Vegetable toppings open veggie oil wok (huo, frying pan), meat toppings open lard wok, can not be cooked in one wok.

Qian Wanxing's chef has improved the restored Sufa wok noodle system by using a little broth instead of oil, which makes it more refreshing to eat, unlike the old noodles and toppings, which were simmered directly in the frying pan in a thick oil and red sauce.

The soup and the noodles are separate, unlike the su noodles.

Suzhou people are meticulous about soup to the bone. At 3 o'clock in the morning, the masters will start to hang the soup, to use fresh pork bones, fan bones, grass chicken, mushrooms, meat skin, etc. Boiled for 4-6 hours, we arrived at the store at 9 o'clock to drink to the noodle soup to eat the best mouth, full of collagen to make the soup inlet "hit the mouth", eat up the thickness.

With permission, we went into the kitchen to visit.

The noodle cook's aunty neatly grabbed a handful of noodles, stroked a standard 2.5, turned around and threw it into the pot of boiling over high heat,

The pot side of the rows of a good match to help the sauce, from the scurrying edge of the side (pot side of the circle to keep a small boil) in the broth scooped up a spoonful of add to the bowl, the red soup is even with a good. When the 2 buckets of soup are used up, the day's noodles will be over.

Just a moment later, the noodles come out of the water, long chopsticks, to the Guanyin bucket, quickly in the air, shake two, turn two, roll tightly presented Guanyin head.

Bowls should be loaded without dragging the water, without splashing the soup, all in the turn of the moment in one breath. Into the bowl should be like the back of the carp, the center of the slightly arched, the noodles are as neat as if they had been coded.

This is the only way to do this, and it will take three or four years to do it.

In Suzhou, the spring is bamboo shoots and oil noodles, the summer is to eat maple town big meat noodles, three shrimp noodles, the fall is the time to eat crabmeat noodles, and in the winter just a bowl of warm solid hoof noodles.

Where is the noodle to eat, it is clearly the four seasons.

A few steps in a city is a noodle shop, ten years of that is the younger generation.

A few steps away from the city is a noodle shop, and a decade is a long time to go.

But if you want to eat this bowl of flavorful noodles, you have to come to Qianwanxing.

Suzhou people like to eat noodles

More people eat noodles

There are more noodle shops

There are also more details about the noodle

A bowl of authentic Suzhou-style noodles is about the noodles, the dew, the soup, the topping, and the green

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The noodles

Noodles should be freshly pressed

Noodles are noodles, noodles should be freshly pressed, more than 3 hours of noodles taste worse, so people who eat noodles in the afternoon sometimes ask: is it the noodles pressed in the afternoon.

Below to pot big water less noodles less

Below the pot to be big, more water less noodles, noodles thrown down the water is still boiling, the heating time of the noodles is short, the noodles will be delicious. That's why the pots in noodle stores are so big. If the water is less noodle more, a handful of noodles put down, the water half a day to open, that kind of noodle is not good, there is a professional term called "bloating brake noodle". If you give your customers this kind of noodle, no one will go there next time.

Hard noodle and rotten noodle, the taste is not agreeable can ask for redo

The short time of cooking noodle is called hard noodle, and the longer cooking time is called rotten noodle, rotten noodle is just softer, not really rotten. About half of Suzhou locals will ask the chef to make the noodles harder or worse, but different chefs don't always have the same grasp of softness and hardness. If the softness is too much for your taste, you can ask for a new bowl.

Wide and Thin Noodles

There used to be several sizes of noodles in Suzhou, differentiated by width. Wide noodles, universal noodles, and thin noodles. In the past, ordinary noodle stores usually had two to three sizes as well, but now there are fewer on the contrary. It may be that the market is not sensitive to the width of noodles anymore, so nowadays, ordinary noodle stores only deal with one kind of noodle, and if you want to eat wide noodles, there is nowhere else to go.

Lu and the soup to pay attention to

A noodle store Lu's recipe can not change at will

Lu, is a variety of seasonings and spices of the recipe in the middle of the night to adjust, such as early morning with. This is a noodle shop's fundamental, because the dew determines the basic flavor of the noodle, also determines the customer base, so the dew recipe is not easy to change, an old Suzhou is very easy to eat out of this is the noodle of whoever's family, or can point out the franchise under the noodle where the difference is.

Lu is the boss personally

Lu is usually a secret recipe, usually by the boss personally, legend has it that the largest noodle shop in Suzhou, Zhu Hongxing's Lu contains juice boiled with eel bones. After some of the old restaurants went public, many of the recipes were lost, leading to the closure of those restaurants.

Red and White Soup

Noodles with soy sauce in the lu are called noodles in red soup, and noodles without soy sauce are called noodles in white soup, and nowadays, people eat less soy sauce, so the business of red soup is not as good as that of white soup. Most of the noodle shops only do white soup noodles, occasionally a few red soup and white soup have, only do red soup less, but still have a certain customer base love to eat red soup noodles.

The red soup usually contains sugar, so if you can't stand the sweetness of the dish, you'd better eat noodles in white soup.

Soup is not a big deal

Soup is not a big deal, it's just a general soup, the flavor is in the dew. Before the next, the noodle bowl will be added to the oil and dew, blended into the soup, waiting for the noodles out of the pot.

Tight soup, wide soup, mixing noodles

Because the dew is unchangeable, customers demand more soup. No soup is called mixed noodles, a little soup is called tight soup noodles, and more soup is called wide soup noodles. When handing over the noodle tickets, the most heard is "tight soup hard noodles", "wide soup rotten noodles" this kind of only face and soup to make the request. Oil is added separately, so people often ask for "no oil".

People who eat noodles in soup and bibimbap have heavy mouths and find them bland when soup is added. There are a lot of noodle restaurants in Suzhou that serve noodles in tight soups, so the red soups in particular are on the heavy side, and even if they are not tight, they are still too salty. If you like light, you'll want to eat white noodles.

First Soup Noodles

Older generations of Suzhou people like to eat noodles in the early morning when the noodle shop is just open, because the water underneath the water is still fresh, and the taste of noodles is the best. The first pot of noodles under fresh water is called "first soup noodles".

I think the history of "first soup noodles" is very long, and the old people who get up early in Suzhou still keep the tradition of eating first soup noodles.

Indeed, this noodle is very delicious, the most important noodle soup, we have a happy event here is to eat noodles first, the noodle soup is very important, are the bones, plus chicken and Kai Yang and other hanging out of the noodle, the general eight minutes to cook on the eat this noodle, feel that other places of the noodle are generally

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I have been engaged in the Lanzhou beef noodle industry for many years, for the local characteristics of the noodle has a unique professional insights, the head soup noodle is not only the Suzhou people eat noodle preoccupation, a lot of China's characteristics of the noodle have this preoccupation, for example: in Lanzhou is also pay attention to eat the first bowl of noodle, is also the same reason, the following I will say that the mystery!

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Professionals look at the doorway, do not know the people to see the fun, a lot of talk about the head soup noodles, but did not get to the point, did not say the reason!

The head of the soup noodles to pay attention to a: fresh flavor changes

No matter what kind of special soup noodles, soup base modulation will use a variety of fresh seasoning, common is monosodium glutamate, fresh Xiangbao and so on, such as the Suzhou a lot of are soy sauce soup, soup base of the production of the sauce will be added to the production of a variety of brands of seasoning, and the soy sauce contains a lot of Soy sauce contains a lot of monosodium glutamate, which is often referred to as monosodium glutamate (MSG). That's why the soup base has a fresh flavor!

But many people are not clear about one thing is that the soup added a variety of fresh seasoning, is not static, but the fresh flavor will be with the soup to save the extension of time, the loss of fresh flavor will be the greater, which is why many people are talking about eating the first soup noodle important reasons, that is to say, the head of the soup noodle in the actual meaning of the first time to taste the soup base has just been modulated, in order to experience the best! The best flavor is the first time you taste the soup base!

And catering in such a small detail, but also reflects a phenomenon, why the flow of stable noodle shop soup base flavor will not appear too much change, while the flow of unstable noodle shop soup base flavor will be in a day from good to bad transformation! This is because the stable traffic of the noodle shop will be based on the usual amount of traffic to modulate the soup base, so the soup will not appear to be adjusted to put a long time, so the flavor can be guaranteed, the soup base of the fresh flavor will not be lost, because the soup base is not waiting for the taste of the changes in the time to be sold out, on the contrary, the flow of customers is not stable enough to the noodle shop will be the soup base from the morning to the evening of the sale of the situation, the natural taste can not be guaranteed!

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The head of the soup noodles to pay attention to the second: the preservation of soup base

The impact of the change of the soup base of the two important reasons, one is the soup base of the relationship between the fresh flavor and the time, the other is the modulation of the good soup base of the preservation problem. The other is the preservation of the good soup base.

Generally in the noodle shop, there are two ways to save the soup base, one is to make a good soup base with a small fire to keep heating, so as to ensure the temperature of the soup, and the other is the intermittent heating of the soup base, when the guests come to the big fire to boil or burn hot, and when there are no guests, the fire will be turned off!

The above two common ways of preserving soup base, no matter which, will cause the taste of the modulated soup base changes, because the soup base in the heating process will be accompanied by the evaporation of water, that is to say, the modulation of the soup in the water is reduced, while the seasoning is not reduced, then the soup base taste will be salty overloaded the situation! Corresponding to the flavor of other seasonings will become heavier, which will directly affect the flavor of the soup base! This is also an important reason to talk about eating noodles in the head soup!

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The soup base flavor will change over time, the noodles are also a reason, but the change in the noodles is indirectly caused by the change!

Changes in noodle taste:

Whether the noodles are good or not, the main thing to look at is whether the texture of the noodles is strong and smooth, and whether the noodles have enough noodle flavor! And in the noodle shop will cook countless bowls of noodles a day, and a noodle shop in the cooking water is mostly from the morning to the evening, and this will be a situation, the larger the amount of cooking noodles, cooking water will be more turbid and sticky, corresponding to the texture of the noodles cooked from the beginning of the strong and smooth into a sticky, the main reason lies in the state of the cooking water changes, so the head of the soup noodles, whether it is a noodle texture or the taste of the soup base is in the best state! The main reason for this is the change in the state of the water used to cook the noodles!

The noodles in Suzhou are made with alkali noodles, which means that the alkali is added to the noodles, and when the alkali noodles are boiled, the water used to boil the noodles will become dark brown or red, which is the effect of the alkali in the noodles, and the color of the water used to boil the noodles will have a great alkali taste, so when the noodles are boiled with this kind of water, the flavor of the noodles will be covered by the alkali taste, which affects the taste of the noodles. The flavor of the noodles will be masked by the alkali flavor, thus affecting the flavor of the noodles! This is not the case with head soup noodles!

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What is the head of the soup noodles?

A Suzhou proverb says, "Noodles should be in the first soup, and the bath should be in the muddy soup". It means that you should eat noodles before it's too late, and the first soup that comes out of the first pot of carefully boiled soup is always the clearest and the freshest. The water below should be clear, muddy will have alkaline water flavor.

The old generation of Suzhou people like to eat noodles in the morning when the noodle shop is just open, because the water underneath is still clear, and the noodles taste the best. The "first soup noodles" are the noodles cooked in the first pot of water in the morning, and they don't have an alkaline flavor. If you put more noodles down, they will be mushy and have a strong smell of alkali, and only the noodles in the first soup are fresh and tasty.

With the north of the chowder, beef noodles, fried noodles, a bowl of noodles Soup most valued by the Suzhou people, is a large cauldron simmering, out of its majestic fresh flavor. After a long time, the soup will be muddy, so many old Suzhou people have to get up early to eat a bowl of noodles in the first soup, to be considered really full of good taste.

To say that the head soup noodles can be widely known, there must be Lu Wenfu teacher's credit, he wrote the "gourmet" I have read many times, which has been despised by the protagonist of the Zhu Zizhong and shame, in the pursuit of food obsession, is simply my life idol. He loves to eat noodles in head soup.

As soon as his eyes opened every day, a thought popped into his head: "Go to Zhu Hongxing to eat head soup noodles!" If you do not eat the head soup noodles, of eating a bowl of noodles with soup gas, he will be in low spirits all day, always feel a little something is not as good as it should be.

The world of the foodie is so much more than that.

Suzhou's noodle soup has a lot to offer. First of all, a good bowl of noodles should be four hot: hot soup, hot noodles, hot pouring hot, hot bowl, the literal meaning of the word is very easy to understand: the soup should be hot, the noodles should be hot, eat while hot; hot pouring hot and hot bowl, with the more and more people eating noodles, it has been very difficult to do.

Every old Suzhou has its own preferences for eating noodles, and the terminology for eating them is very much a Suzhou specialty: hard noodles, rotten noodles, noodles in soup, tight soup, wide soup, less salty, more salty, more green, no green, no oil ......

The hard noodles are the ones that require a break in the noodle; the rotten noodles are the ones that are slightly overcooked; and the ones without soup are the ones that are tossed. The most important thing to remember is that you should be able to make the best use of your time and money, and you should be able to make the best use of your time and money. It's a good idea to use chopsticks when you eat.

Nowadays, people don't have to pay much attention to this, and noodle shops serve standardized soup noodles, so if you want to "cross the bridge", you may have to charge more, and you'll have to pay more to eat the small stove dishes.

I have eaten Zhu Hongxing, but my stomach is not adapted to the kind of authentic northerners sweet toppings, light taste of the Soviet-style soup noodles, really a side of the soil to raise a person, a place has a place of taste.

The first soup noodle is not the name of a particular noodle, the first soup noodle refers to just the morning noodle shop opened under the first set of noodles, because the water in the pot is refreshing, the alkali in the noodles is easy to release. The water in the back of the pot gets more and more muddy as more noodles are laid down, affecting the taste of the noodles. Under the noodles of the pot is very large, if mixed, a large pot of boiling water to replace all the very time-consuming and fire, so the general noodle shop is a side of the following side of the open faucet to put new water into the cooking pot to swap, but after all, not as good as the first store of fresh water.

This is a kind of preaching, but also a habit. Just like the old farmers in the northern countryside, the first thing in the morning, the first boil water, boil and brew big leaf tea, brewing tea oil after a finger thick. They are most concerned about drinking the first bowl. If this time the family came to relatives and neighbors, they will persuade you to drink like wine, the enthusiasm of the extreme. But those who know what to do will never drink, will find all kinds of reasons to be modest. Encountered unintelligent, took over and drank, they will be after you go, the teapot clean, re-brewing. This is the life of the delicate, but also a kind of culture.

The most important thing for Suzhou people is to eat "head soup noodles". The most important thing for Suzhou people is to eat "head soup noodles", which is a pot of soup for a thousand bowls of noodles. If you put down a thousand bowls of noodles, the soup will be muddy, and the noodles will not be so refreshing and smooth, and there will be a smell of noodle soup.

The so-called "first soup" refers to the first batch of noodles cooked with fresh water at the opening of the noodle store. Many people who have eaten noodles in Suzhou remember the scene, the imitation celadon soup bowl, a variety of table numbers on the square table wooden clamps, a few green cabbage in the first soup noodles, floating on the noodles with sesame oil and fine green onions. Many old-timers in Suzhou have the impression that in the past you could get an authentic bowl of noodles in soup for a few cents at Songhelou. Also the bone broth in the first pot in the morning is better and the toppings are fresh.