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The Development History of Shaoxing Cuisine

Shaoxing cuisine is profound, profound and charming. It has always been favored by the majority of diners. It is an important part of Zhejiang cuisine among the eight famous cuisines in China, and Shaoxing is the cradle and birthplace of Zhejiang cuisine, no matter from the parallel ancient cultural belt (from Egypt in the west to wuyue in China in the east) or from many myths and legends in ancient times.

Hemudu ancient culture in Yuyao entered the era of primitive tribal settlement, bid farewell to hunting life, and began the settled farming tribal life, and the gathering economy was transformed into food-producing economy. In the primitive commune society where people live in groups, work in groups and eat in groups, "rice, soup, fish and boiled water" are the main characteristics of the food life of the ancestors of Vietnam, which ignited the fire of the original and colorful food culture of Vietnam. The Hemudu site, which is rich in resources, is interpreted from the perspective of diet and cooking, and there are many discoveries worthy of being written in the history of China's diet and cooking: the rice crust at the bottom of the pottery pot proves that there was grain food at that time; The dustpan-shaped pottery stove has been developed into a movable stove by using a fixed big pond or stove; Tao Zan, on the other hand, proved eloquently that as early as 6,111 years ago, the ancestors of Vietnam had invented the steaming method using steam as the heat transfer medium. In particular, this steaming method is a great pride of the Chinese nation and a great contribution of the ancestors of China. It has been used for a long time and has become a good cooking method in Shao cuisine in.

During the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, the food culture of Yue was quite rich, and the agriculture, animal husbandry, fishery, salt industry and smelting industry had a certain scale. "Raising chickens in chicken hills, raising ducks in firewood lakes and raising fish in Nanchi", the first monograph on fish culture in the world, was written by Fan Li, a doctor of Yue. Yue people have attached importance to the improvement of plants and the raising of livestock. It is said that Shaoxing famous dish "Clear Soup Yue Chicken", which enjoys the reputation of "King of Yue Cuisine", originated from the land of Yue. In addition, it has become a folk custom to eat "smelly" things, and the legend of moldy amaranth stalks has been circulated so far. At this time, the moldy flavor has also taken shape.

during the Yonghe period of the eastern Han dynasty, the completion of Jianhu greatly improved the cross-border water conservancy conditions, high grain and fishery yield and economic development. Flood discharge irrigation ensures the harvest of agricultural crops in drought and flood. Freshwater culture makes all kinds of resources fully developed and utilized. More than 21 kinds of fish, such as perch, carp, crucian carp, herring, catfish, eel, bighead carp, silver carp, bighead carp, whitebait, bighead carp, eel and loach, have become excellent aquatic products in Jianhu waters. Aquatic plants, such as Zizania latifolia, lotus root, and the head of a chicken in Meishi, have become well-known square objects. All these have laid a foundation for the construction of Shaoxing's land of fish and rice, promoted the development of cooking and ensured the improvement of cooking technology.

during the Wei and Jin dynasties, due to social stability, economic prosperity and beautiful scenery, Huiji became a place where celebrities lived together. Celebrities drink, write poems and sing. The grand event of "meandering water flowing" (in Lanting in 353 AD) took place in Yuexiang. As a wine town, Shaoxing takes wine as seasoning, and it has become a feature to make wine and distiller's grains worse and drunk. "Yue wine shop is the best in the world", and the popularity of wine benefited from Huiji's "bringing a sea and a lake, hundreds of thousands of hectares of fertile land, and an acre is worth one gold", which became a famous barn in the Eastern Jin Dynasty and the Southern Dynasties. Emperor Jinyuan sighed at the sight of Huiji's prosperity: "Today's Huiji is the Guanzhong of the past."

in Li Tang's prosperous times, delicious food is matched with beautiful utensils. Yue kiln ranks first among the seven kilns in China, and its celadon ranks first in the country. Lu Guimeng "In September, the wind and dew opened over the kiln and won the green color of Qianfeng." Yue cuisine uses a lot of Yue porcelain and pays attention to the configuration and harmony of food and utensils. Shao cuisine has entered a new field.

during the southern song dynasty, the more it became the temporary capital and then the capital, the more it became the political and economic center of the south, with prosperous city appearance, developed commerce, neat streets and lanes, and a large number of celebrities and working people in the north moved south, forming another blend of north and south customs. Chefs from the Central Plains traveled south with the Song Dynasty, which promoted the exchange and integration of cooking skills and cultures between the North and the South. Taking Gyeonggi as a model, Yue cuisine, taking advantage of abundant local famous products and specialties, introduced the essence of Central Plains cooking skills, and "cooking in the south and cooking in the north" and "cooking in the south and tasting in the north" had great changes in diet, which was a major exchange and integration with foreign cuisines in the history of Shao cuisine development. At this point, Shaocai entered a mature stage.

in the Ming and Qing dynasties, the emperor repeatedly went to the south of the Yangtze River, went to Beijing to enter the palace, and Vietnamese cuisine entered the realm of imperial cuisine. Eight tributes (mandarin fish, dried vegetables, fragrant cakes, Vietnamese chicken, tea, fermented bean curd, tribute melon and Shaoxing wine) were presented to the DPRK at the end of the year. Shaoxing touts are widely known as aides, which have played a positive role in the development of Shaoxing cuisine: on the one hand, they introduced Shaoxing cuisine to the outside world, on the other hand, they brought back excellent dishes from other places when they were visiting relatives in the province. It is said that the famous Shaoxing dish "Drunken Crab" was created by the master. Diao Ding Ji, a secret book of kitchen meals in Qing Dynasty, is a rich collection of recipes, which describes many dishes with Jiangnan flavor. This book was written by Yue Jian, a salt merchant in Shaoxing. At this time, Shao cuisine has been greatly exchanged and improved in breadth and depth.

In modern Shaoxing, there are many restaurants, food shops and businesses. Shaoxing cuisine, such as Lanxiang Pavilion, Taishengsheng Hotel in Tongzhi period of Qing Dynasty, Shen Guiji, Ding Daxing, Yi Yixin in Guangxu period of Qing Dynasty, has gathered in the market from folk food stalls, forming a certain scale and becoming a relatively fixed genre of cuisine. In the 5th year of the Republic of China (1916), the book "A Record of Feelings in Yuexiang" written by Jushi Chong Zhai is a master of Shaoxing local dishes, which describes all kinds of habits, hobbies, taboos and traditional techniques of Yuedi diet, with strong local flavor and homely mood.

from the founding of new China to 1956, the catering industry with private enterprises and individual mobile traders as the main body basically completed the socialist transformation. after the public-private partnership, a number of state-owned catering enterprises were invested and built, and the traditional Shao cuisine was summarized and upgraded, showing great vitality. In March, 1956, Zhejiang Catering Company held a large-scale food and beverage exhibition in Hangzhou, and evaluated 56 famous Zhejiang dishes. Shaoxing was selected as five: head and belly vinegar fish, tied meat, boiled chicken, sauced duck and single rot. During the difficult period from 1958 to 2113, the market commodities decreased, and the supply was in short supply. The catering industry vigorously tapped the supply and used substitutes, and enriched the variety of dishes by adopting the method of "low standard, substituting melons and vegetables", and adopted measures such as "vegetarian dishes are cooked with meat, coarse dishes are carefully cooked, and miscellaneous products are substituted for the main ones", such as kelp as ribs, sweet potatoes, wild vegetables, bean curd residue and so on to make various dishes and points, and the situation of short supply of salted vegetables.

Ten years of turmoil, during the Cultural Revolution, Vietnamese cuisine declined seriously. Under the influence of ultra-leftist ideology, century-old shops and famous dishes were renamed or put in limbo, and the technical team was short of successors, and the traditional skills were on the verge of being lost. The "big pot dishes, rising noodles" dominated the whole country, and the quality of Shao cuisine declined, and Shao cuisine entered a "dormant period" and a retrogression period.

With the reform and opening up, the Vietnamese cuisine began to recover, and famous shops, dishes and dishes were restored, and technical exchanges and training were conducted, so as to inherit, carry forward, develop and innovate dishes, improve the quality, oppose the operation of large pots and shoddy production, and put forward the quality requirements of sample plate production, small pot operation and dishes that are not more than three or five noodles, and Shao cuisine reappeared.

Nowadays, with the rapid development of the national economy and the rise of city tours, Vietnamese cuisine has entered an unprecedented period of prosperity. The catering industry is booming, hotels and restaurants are mushrooming, and there are many famous dishes. The traditional essence of Shaoxing cuisine has been effectively passed down and sublimated. Shaoxing traditional cuisine, represented by "braised meat with dried vegetables" and "fish balls in clear soup", has become a famous national banquet dish, and famous new dishes such as "Yue Wei lobster" and "Four treasures of shark's fin with wine flavor" have also been developed and applied. The distinctive personality and unique flavor of Shaoxing cuisine in China have attracted worldwide attention. Shao cuisine goes all over the world, keeps pace with the times, blends into the times, and constantly draws lessons from and absorbs the strengths of various cuisines to complement each other. Shaoxing chefs have won many gold medals in previous national and provincial cooking technology competitions, adding luster to Shaoxing cuisine, and Shaoxing cuisine in China is full of vitality.