The most famous Gaba cuisine in Tianjin is "Dafulai" in the northwest corner. Speaking of "Dafulai" Gaba cuisine, there are inevitably fabricated collateral legends. It is said that during the Qianlong period of the Qing Dynasty, Zhang Lan, a descendant of Zhang Qing, the vegetable garden of Water Margin, opened a Zhangji pancake shop in Tianjinwei. One day, it happened that Emperor Qianlong came to the store incognito and ate a scallion cake. Suddenly, he was thirsty and ordered soup. The pancake shop didn't sell soup, so people in the shop used their quick wits to tear up the pancakes and wash them with seasoning. Who knows the guest tastes delicious, so he asks the name of the soup. The shopkeeper mistakenly thought he asked the name, so he answered "Guo Ba". The guest laughed and said, "How can soup be called' rice with rice in a pot'? You should add a word' dish' to it. " A few days later, a royal bodyguard broke into the pancake shop and shouted, "Boss, you are so lucky!" " "And put down the sycee of the emperor's reward of two hundred and twenty. Since then, "Dafu has been to eight dishes" has become famous. After all, anecdotes are just anecdotes and can't be believed, but "Zhangji Pancake Shop" does have its own shop. Zhang shopkeeper is a real person. His name is Zhang Qifa.

It's a long story In fact, this "Gaba dish" was not created by Tianjin people. As early as in rural areas of Shandong and Hebei, the habit of making pancakes was popular. Later, some poor Shandong Han people came to Tianjinwei to make a living, so they took local materials, ground mung beans into fine flour, spread them on an iron pan with a wood stove, fried them into pancakes, and then cut them into wickers and sold them along the street. Later, after several evolutions, it became more and more refined. In particular, it can be dried and has the function of making soup. In particular, it has improved the salty habits of deer seed tea and Tianjin Wei, and this economical "Gaba dish" has become a unique snack in Tianjin. In 1930s, there were more than a dozen vendors selling Gaba dishes in the city, and Zhangji pancake shop in Zhang Qifa was one of them. Zhangji Pancake Shop was first opened in Xidawanzi, which is Laoxiwan Street in Hongqiao District. It is said that it has been handed down for four generations and has a history of 100 years. After the public-private partnership, Dafu Laidian, which opened at No.29 Liangjiazuizi, has expanded more than ten times from the first two volumes, and the degree of prosperity is obvious. However, at that time, a bowl of such delicious food cost only 80 cents, not 60 cents for the "Dafulai" Gaba dish. According to the older generation, it is called "Dafulai" because his wife gave birth to a big fat boy. Zhang Qifa is very happy and likes it very much. The baby's name is "Dafulai". Later, everyone called his family's Gaba cuisine "Dafulai Gaba cuisine".

Dafulai Gaba cuisine is characterized by pure sauce flavor, and there is also a famous Gaba cuisine restaurant with gravy in Tianjin, that is Wanshuncheng snack bar. Wan Shuncheng started his business in Dongxing Street, Shinan. 1929 added Wanshun branch at the corner of Liaoning Road and changchun road, which is famous for producing and selling Gaba dishes and eight-treasure porridge. The brine of Wanshun Chengjiaba cuisine is made from fat and thin meat slices and auricularia auricula. Compared with vegetarian brine, it makes gluttonous diners feast their eyes, not only selling early, but also opening as usual at night, which is very popular. Later, Wanshun City was renamed as Beijing-Tianjin Snack Bar, Beijing-Tianjin Restaurant and Beijing-Tianjin Fast Food City. Although the taste of Gaba cuisine remains the same, I always feel that it is not only the lack of the signboard of "Wanshun City", but also the old Tianjin flavor behind Gaba cuisine, which can't be waved away for hundreds of years. Why mourn in the future?