Then, how are the four dark dishes in old Beijing in the eyes of outsiders and the four delicious dishes in the hearts of old Beijingers made?
The first time I drank bean juice, the sour taste like swill was really hard to swallow. Because the process of making bean juice is like this: soak mung beans until they can be twisted and peeled, then take them out, add water and grind them into fine pulp, and pour them into vats for fermentation. What sinks in the bottom of the vat is starch, and what floats on it is bean juice. Fermented bean juice must be boiled with water in a big casserole, then boiled with fermented bean juice, and then kept warm with low fire, and served with food.
Although it tastes strange, soybean juice is rich in protein, vitamin C, crude cellulose and sugar. Quench thirst and relieve summer heat in summer, clear heat and warm yang in winter, and drink it in four seasons, which is beneficial to appetizing, strengthening spleen, expelling toxin and eliminating dryness.
How can I drink authentic bean juice? If you drink it cold, you will taste swill in your mouth; If you drink it while it is hot, it will taste different, sweet and sour, and have a unique taste; Drink bean juice with finely cut pickles. Generally in summer, kohlrabi and old salted mustard are cut into filaments and mixed with Chili oil rings, which has a unique flavor.
There is a poem about bean porridge in Yan Dou Snack Miscellaneous Poems written by a person near Xue: The dregs can be used as porridge, and the taste of old pulp is thin and thick.
Stir-fried liver children are Beijing snacks developed from folk foods "boiling liver" and "stir-fried lung" in Song Dynasty. There is also a poem about fried liver in Yan Dou's Miscellaneous Poems on Snacks: Boil fat sausage in thick sauce and try it on a fair trade. Proverbs spread from pig to pig, and once you fry the liver.
How to cook fried liver? The annotation after this poem said: "Fried liver is made of pig's small intestine, cut into sections and stewed in powder juice ... It is called fried liver, but it is actually stewed with pig's intestines. It's no use frying without liver (occasionally there is a liver lump, so don't fry). There is a saying in Beijing that pigs eat fried liver and hurt their own flesh and blood. Therefore, the word' fried liver incense' in the poem makes the seller stunned. " This explanation is very clear, fried liver is actually stewed sausage. That is, the pig's large intestine and liver (only 1/3) are used as the main materials, garlic is used as the auxiliary material, and starch is thickened. In the eyes of outsiders, this black, sticky and smelly fried liver is praised by Beijingers: the soup is bright red, thin but not sticky, the liver and intestines are fat and delicious, and the taste is strong but not greasy.
Fried tripe is a process in which fresh tripe (including tripe and tripe collar) or fresh lamb tripe is washed and sorted, cut into strips, fried in boiling water, and eaten with oil, sesame sauce, vinegar, Chili oil, bean curd soup with sauce, coriander powder and chopped green onion. The texture is tender and crisp.
Everyone in old Beijing likes to eat tripe, especially after beginning of autumn in the lunar calendar. Beijingers pay attention to "eating autumn", and there is a saying that "if you want to eat autumn, you will have an explosion."
In the eyes of outsiders, there may be only one kind of tripe, but in the eyes of Beijingers, it can be divided into:
Fried lamb belly: scattered Dan, belly kernel, mushroom head, belly collar, mushrooms.
Tripe: louver, belly kernel and belly collar.
Generally speaking, the so-called black louver we eat is the belly of sheep, and the accurate name should be scattered and tender.
Only Niu Jiao is blind. There are two kinds of beef in venetian blinds. Beef blinds grown on feed are black, and beef blinds grown on food crops are yellow. As for the taste that should be yellow, it is even better. The principle is naturally the same as that of Chai Chicken.
Tripe is thicker than lamb's belly. If you want to eat tender, you should spread Dan, and if you want to eat chewy, you should order venetian blinds. The highest level of eating fried belly is to eat belly collar, because it is expensive and tender. It is said that it takes several stomachs to make such a plate. Sheep's belly collar should be peeled and eaten, and cattle's can be directly exploded. In addition, mushroom tips are also very expensive things. Mushrooms are only a part of sheep's stomach, and this mushroom tip is the essence. A sheep has only that small piece, and it takes many sheep to make that plate. The belly is also very good, and it tastes tender and smooth. It takes three sheep's stomachs to make a pot belly. In the old society, most ordinary people ate tripe and loose pills, and only the poor or not-so-rich people wanted tripe and mushrooms.
In Beijing, niujie is the best place to eat tripe. Feng's three restaurants are all good. But the price may be a little expensive. The correct way to open it is to eat fried tripe and have a portion of sesame bean curd with sheep oil. If you have a big belly, you can have a sesame seed cake or mutton offal soup and live together.
Some people say that "braising in soy sauce and boiling fire is a pure thing in old Beijing, which is native and purer than Beijing opera." Braised pork is a popular snack, which evolved from the "Suzhou-made meat" that Qianlong loves to eat. Unofficial history said that Qianlong liked the dishes cooked by Zhang Dongguan, the chef of Chen Yangzhou's family, and called him into the palace to be a chef. Zhang Dongguan knew the emperor's food preferences well and created a dish made of pork belly for meals. Since Zhang Dongguan is from Suzhou, this dish is called "Suzhou produces meat". In Yan Dou's "Miscellaneous Poems on Snacks", there is a poem about Su Zao meat: "Su Zao is full of greed and puts soup in it to soak the meat. Even if the gluttonous people say they are tired, a cup of ointment is full of shirts. " He also pointed out: "Su's meat manufacturers use long strips of fat, stew it in very bad sauce, and burn it in the same pot. Most buyers embed meat in the fire to eat. "
After this method was introduced to the people, the people used pig's head meat instead of pork belly, and then added cheap pigs to the water. Although this is not a good ingredient, they still eat happily, which is called stewing, boiling and burning.
Braised pork should be cut into tic-tac-toe knives, tofu should be cut into triangles, and the small intestine and lung head should be chopped into small pieces. Scoop a spoonful of old soup from the pot, pour it into a porcelain bowl, and add some Chili oil, bean curd, garlic paste and chives. A bowl of hot braised pork is served. The fire, lung head and tofu in the bowl have absorbed enough soup. The fire is thorough but not sticky, and the meat is rotten but not rotten. However, the heaviest taste is the small intestine, which is soft and mellow and not greasy.
There is no doubt that the best thing to say is "Xiao Changchen" in Nanheng Street.