Speaking of Shandong cuisine, everyone knows it. Since the Ming and Qing Dynasties, there have been four major cuisines of Sichuan, Shandong, Huai and Guangdong, followed by eight so-called cuisines of Zhejiang Hui, Hunan Hui and Fujian Hui. Anyway, traditionally, Shandong cuisine is the first of all major cuisines. However, Shandong cuisine with a long history and high status has gradually declined since the beginning of the new century. Even in Shandong, more and more young people prefer to eat exotic foods such as Sichuan cuisine and Cantonese cuisine, and even simply eat western food. People can't help asking: Is Shandong cuisine really a failure? What's wrong with Shandong cuisine that has been passed down for thousands of years? As a Shandong native who grew up in Shandong cuisine, let's talk about this problem today.

1. Why is Shandong cuisine the first of the four major cuisines?

The view that Sichuan cuisine, Shandong cuisine, Huai cuisine and Cantonese cuisine are the four major cuisines was actually formed in the Ming and Qing Dynasties, and the status of Shandong cuisine as the first of the four major cuisines was formally concluded during this period. Many friends may ask, why can this Shandong cuisine become the first of the four major cuisines? Some friends will argue from the cooking skills and characteristics of Shandong cuisine, but these are not the main reasons, because each cuisine will have some unique skills and characteristics. Shandong cuisine has become the first of the four major cuisines. I think there are two main reasons:

1, a spontaneous food with a long history

Shandong cuisine is the oldest spontaneous cuisine among the four major cuisines. Let's start with the history of Shandong cuisine. If Shandong cuisine is defined as a local cuisine with Shandong characteristics, its germination can be traced back to the pre-Qin period. Qilu area in the pre-Qin period, before Jiang Taigong was in Guanzhong, was one of the areas with the most developed commerce and abundant materials at that time. At the same time, the etiquette of the Zhou Dynasty was well preserved in Qilu area. What happened? Is it in Lu? Statement. The important origin of Shandong cuisine can be traced back to the Shang and Zhou Dynasties? Court food? .

Jiang Taigong Steels

At the same time, among the four major cuisines in later generations, only Shandong cuisine is spontaneous, that is, its cooking methods, and the characteristics of dishes are spontaneously formed in this area of Shandong, which is less influenced by foreign food culture. The other three major cuisines have experienced many waves of immigration in their areas, and their food styles have also been influenced by foreign countries. Among them, Sichuan cuisine is the most typical. As we all know, although Sichuan has superior natural conditions and a good reputation as a land of abundance, it is actually a disaster-ridden place in history. The two massacres at the end of Song Dynasty, the beginning of Yuan Dynasty and the end of Ming Dynasty and the beginning of Qing Dynasty almost wiped out the indigenous people here. Later, people gradually recovered their popularity after emigration. The Sichuan food we are used to now is mainly spicy. In fact, it was gradually formed after the Qing Dynasty, and it was also greatly influenced by Huguang immigrants.

2. Shandong cuisine is the main part of palace cuisine.

China has been an official-based country since ancient times, and the status of many things is actually influenced by the government. Different from other cuisines, the earliest origin of Shandong cuisine can be traced back to the court cuisines in Shang and Zhou Dynasties. Friends who know something about Shang and Zhou Dynasties should know that it was an aristocratic era. Especially after the completion of the Zhou Dynasty ritual system, what to eat is not only a matter of diet, but also a matter of order for the nobles. Emperor-vassal-doctor Qing-scholar, different identities have different dietary norms, so don't overstep the rules. For example, the Eight Treasures of the Zhou Dynasty are eight kinds of delicacies enjoyed exclusively by the Zhou Emperor.

Dragon hairpin (f incarnation) Eastern Zhou food utensil

Later, from the Eastern Zhou Dynasty to the Qin and Han Dynasties, the aristocratic society gradually disintegrated, the status of the civilian class rose, and some foods originally exclusive to the nobility gradually sank to the people. So, Shandong cuisine is born from its identity? Is it expensive? Yes

Moreover, from the Qin and Han Dynasties to the Ming and Qing Dynasties, the royal subjects of most dynasties came from the north. Shandong cuisine, as a typical representative of northern cuisine, is more in line with the royal diet. This also makes Shandong cuisine an important part of feudal society for more than two thousand years. Court food? The dominant position has continued. This is also an important reason why Shandong cuisine was designated as the first of the four major cuisines after the Ming and Qing Dynasties.

Second, industrial Shandong cuisine and craftsman Shandong cuisine

Shandong cuisine undoubtedly has a glorious history, but as Shandong people, when we move from history to reality, it is inevitable that we will be a little embarrassed. Because it is undeniable that the development and spread of Shandong cuisine has not been smooth since the beginning of the new century. In recent years, Shandong cuisine has been hailed as the first cuisine, but its influence in the whole country has been surpassed by Sichuan cuisine and Cantonese cuisine. Even young people in Shandong don't like Shandong cuisine very much. Why on earth is this?

Recently, when communicating with some Shandong cuisine people, I heard a term called industrial Shandong cuisine. This word may partly answer the previous question. Nowadays, we are walking on the border of Shandong, and many restaurants that mainly serve Shandong cuisine use the central kitchen cooking method introduced from western food. This cooking method usually adopts a unified formula and ingredient ratio. Like a factory workshop, the dishes are processed into semi-finished products one by one, and then a heating process is finally adopted when serving. This way of cooking, of course, is more efficient, and it can also ensure that the dishes have a taste above the passing line. But the dishes made in this way can be said to be no? Soul? Yes

Streamlined central kitchen

Traditional Shandong cuisine is obviously not like this. Every dish, from the preparation and treatment of raw materials to the specific cooking, and finally to the plate in front of the diners, is a complete process. In this process, chefs not only cook delicious dishes, but also penetrate their own understanding of ingredients, diet and even the relationship between man and nature through special cooking skills such as frying, frying, burning, frying, roasting and collapsing. So-called? All five flavors are good, only the middle and only the harmony? This is a spiritual realm embodied in Shandong cuisine. These things are not available in the assembly line industry Shandong cuisine. Now people are talking about craftsmanship. What about traditional Shandong cuisine? Craftsman Shandong cuisine? All right.

Like this? Craftsman Shandong cuisine? Has it disappeared now? Actually, it's not. It's just that they are silently hiding in the old alleys of old Jinan, waiting for us to find them. For example, Qushuiting Street and Qifengqiao Street in the old city of Jinan, and there are only a few Ming and Qing quadrangles in Jinan. How much is hidden here? Old Jinan quadrangle? Famous Shandong cuisine restaurant. The names of restaurants are very simple. They are all named after Hutong brands. For example? Wangfuchi No.4 Hospital, Qifengqiao Street No.5 Hospital? Wait a minute. More importantly, here, we can vaguely find the old Jinan Shandong cuisine people? Generous and noble but not petty, upright and upright? Craftsmanship.

Real shot, there is a hole in the front of the small volume.

Like this fried kidney flower. Stir-fried kidney flower is the representative dish of Shandong cuisine, but it requires high treatment of raw materials. If the kidney is not handled well, it is easy to smell fishy smell and difficult to swallow. But here, don't worry at all. Moreover, the knife skill and heat of this dish are just right, and it can really achieve a crisp taste.

Real shot saute kidney flower

Another example is this famous sweet and sour carp.

Real shot sweet and sour carp

Sweet and sour carp is also a masterpiece of Shandong cuisine, but I seldom eat it satisfactorily these years. Usually the fish is too corny, the sauce is too sweet, or the batter is too hard because it is fried. But these common problems have not been encountered in this store. The carp used here are all bought and fed in the spring pool in the yard for more than a week before cooking. Through the interaction with spring water, carp has fully spit out the sediment in its stomach. This alone, we can see the chef's intention to the ingredients.

Really shoot carp raised in spring water.

Wen dui Shuo

In this era of industrialization, our life has been accelerating. The fast and efficient assembly line has produced a large number of products, which greatly enriched our material life. But at the same time, we also lost a lot in the process of rushing forward. We often talk about food culture, but culture needs to calm down, slow down and settle down.

Fortunately, in this era of speed masters, there are still a handful of traditional Shandong cuisine craftsmen who stick to the old alley and inherit the memory and culture of Shandong cuisine over the years.