Rumors on the internet
Dongpo meat was originally cooked by a white water chef?
Recently, the former residences of Su Xun, Su Shi and Su Zhe, famous writers in the Northern Song Dynasty? Susan Temple, located in Meishan City, Sichuan Province, ushered in a large-scale renovation. At the same time, a number of ancient books of Ming and Qing dynasties were sorted out. The Complete Works of Dongpo has attracted the attention of researchers. It not only proves that Su Dongpo is an out-and-out gourmet, but also is good at cook the meat, brewing wine and cooking porridge. At the same time, researchers also revealed Su Dongpo's ancient cooking methods for the first time, which became the focus of public opinion. Soon, an article entitled "Dongpo meat turned out to be boiled in water" became popular on the Internet. The article says,? Dongpo meat introduced by the ancient method is relatively light, and pork is slowly stewed with white water, which is not as delicious as it is now. ? This immediately caused an uproar on the Internet. ? I have loved Dongpo meat for decades, and I still eat it all the time. Wrong? Is it? Similar comments have become the mainstream of online comments.
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Dongpo only wrote the temperature, not the boiled water.
Dongpo meat was originally cooked by a white water chef? In this regard, the researchers of Su San Temple do not fully recognize it. ? Su Dongpo's approach to pork appeared in Ode to Pork in the Complete Works of Dongpo. ? Xu Li, head of the research department of Susan Temple, told reporters yesterday.
There is a description in ode to pork:? Clean the pot, no water, no firewood. Don't rush him when he is ripe, he will be beautiful when the heat is enough. Huangzhou good pork, the price is as cheap as dirt. Noble people refuse to eat, and poor people don't know how to cook. They got up early and cooked two bowls, and they were full, regardless of their husbands. ? Except for some commonly used words, Ode to Pork in the block edition is basically the same as the current edition. Xu Li said that Ode to Pork mainly introduced the cooking temperature of pork and the feeling of cooking pork. It doesn't mean that the seasoning must be boiled. ?
So, how did Su Shi's original Dongpo meat come out? Xu Li said that due to the long time, these can no longer be verified. Historically, Su Shi served as a local official in many places. There is a saying:? Dongpo meat? Created in Xuzhou, perfected in Huangzhou and famous in Hangzhou. ? What changes have been made in the practice and taste of Dongpo meat during its creation? These will not be recorded in detail.
Do textual research
When Dongpo was alive, he wasn't? Dongpo meat?
Regarding the origin of Dongpo meat, it is generally believed that Su Shi made great contributions to dredging the West Lake when he was the second governor of Hangzhou. When everyone gave him wine and meat to celebrate the New Year, Su Shi ordered pork and wine to cook for migrant workers. His family mistakenly thought that rice wine and pork were cooked together, but everyone felt crisper and better after eating. ? Dongpo meat? Fame spread from Hangzhou to the whole country.
However, He Hong, vice president of Zhejiang Zhejiang Cuisine Culture Research Association, told the reporter of Modern Express that this story is not completely accurate. He did academic research on the origin of Dongpo meat, and finally found that when Su Dongpo was alive, there was no such thing as Dongpo meat, only Dongpo fish. Dongpo meat first appeared in the history books of Ming Dynasty. Eric speculated that because Su Dongpo was very popular with later generations and was associated with his love of food, he had written Song of Stewed Meat and Ode to Pork, so the people attached a specific meat dish to him. Dongpo meat? . So far, there is no evidence that Su Dongpo ever did it? Dongpo meat? There is no evidence that he even cooked meat himself. Some of his poems related to meat may be just other people's records.
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Nanjing Hotel cooks less Dongpo meat and more braised pork.
According to a survey by the reporter of Modern Express, few restaurants in Nanjing that operate Jiangsu and Zhejiang cuisine and hangzhou dishes cook Dongpo meat. However, braised pork is a popular specialty in these restaurants. Master Wang, the chef of a hangzhou dishes restaurant upstairs in Nanjing Kidd Square, said that this restaurant doesn't cook Dongpo meat now, but? Signature braised pork? Very popular. ? Dongpo pork and braised pork look similar, but the method is completely different. Dongpo meat is delicate and needs to be picked by fire. Boil the soup very thick, and then pour the juice on the meat. ? Master Wang said that restaurants in Nanjing really seldom cook Dongpo meat now. Compared with Dongpo pork, braised pork is simpler and more popular with the public.
Among the few restaurants in Nanjing that make Dongpo meat, the chef Huaiyang Restaurant is one of them. Wen Ding, the head chef of Kitchen Niang Restaurant, introduced? To make Dongpo meat, you need to use a lot of spices as the base material and stew it with a small fire, so that it can be delicious and melt in the mouth. ? Wen Ding introduced that in recent years, the basic cooking methods of Dongpo meat have never changed, only the taste and shape have been improved a little.
The owner of another restaurant dealing in Dongpo meat also said that they have been cooking Dongpo meat for more than ten years and have always followed the old method taught by Master. Never heard of it? Is Dongpo meat originally boiled in white water? .
Authentic Dongpo meat, what should I do?
A practice (from Hangzhou)
Specializing in traditional hangzhou dishes? Do you know the taste concept? Wei Zhuang? Executive chef Sheng Feizhong said that their Dongpo pork is very traditional: choose pork belly with thin skin and thick meat and blanch it with boiling water; Shaping the meat, and cutting into squares with the same size; Put the bamboo stick at the bottom of the casserole, put the shallots and ginger on it, then arrange the skin downwards, add sugar, soy sauce and Shaoxing wine, and drain until you don't eat meat; After the fire boils, cover it with a small fire and seal it for two hours. After an hour, open the lid and skim the oil, and then skim it once or twice. After two hours, the meat is eight-cooked. At this time, turn the meat upside down and simmer for about 30 minutes.
Best Practices (from Hong Kong)
However, the practice advocated by Cai Lan, a famous gourmet in Hong Kong, is quite different from that of Chinese restaurants in Hangzhou. Cai Lan advocated putting pork belly skin up in a pottery bowl, adding rock sugar, Shaoxing wine and soy sauce, and stewing for 3-5 hours. Remove the lard from the pot and refrigerate overnight. The next day, after the lard is solidified, take it out and steam it.
Who is more authentic, Hangzhou or Hong Kong?
Are there any differences in details on the premise of following the basic standards? Right or wrong?
Cai Lan was not surprised by the different cooking methods of Dongpo pork in different places. Yesterday, he said in an interview with the reporter of Modern Express? There is no need to stick to the original recipes and practices, because in the circulation, all localities have derived their own practices, but the source still comes from Su Dongpo. ?
Eric also holds a similar view. He believes that there is no disagreement on some details while following the basic standards. Right or wrong? . For example, the places where Su Dongpo stayed, such as Huangzhou, Hangzhou and Huizhou, all have Dongpo meat with local characteristics, but according to the habits of local people, the taste is salty and different.
For many others in China? Celebrity dishes? This is also the case. Most of these dishes are not created by celebrities, so they are not? Original recipe? Say it. There are also some dishes that are directly related to celebrities. Because of the long history, most of them have been unable to verify the original law, and can only be recreated by future generations according to its essence. Therefore, cooking does not have to stick to the ancient method. Under the premise of following the essence of the ancient method, the details and tastes of the dishes can be adjusted.
interconnection
How much do you know about names and dishes?
Zhaojun Duck: Legend has it that Wang Zhaojun, who was born in Chu State, was not used to pasta after leaving the fortress, so the chef soaked vermicelli and oil gluten together and cooked it with duck soup, which was very suitable for Zhaojun. Later, people made a dish with vermicelli, gluten and fat duck called. Zhaojun duck? , has been passed down to this day.
Cao Caoji: According to legend? Medicinal diet originated from Cao Cao? . When Cao Cao was stationed in xiaoyaojin, Luzhou, he was bedridden because of the military and political busyness. During the treatment, the chef added traditional Chinese medicine to the chicken according to the doctor's instructions and cooked it into medicated chicken. Cao Cao got better and better after eating it, and later he often ate this medicated chicken. This dish has spread and is called. Cao Cao chicken? .
The story of heart-wrenching tofu: Is it a famous dish with traditional flavor from the people? Dried loach tofu, also called Tibetan Jiao and Yuxin Mud in Han Palace, is widely produced in China except in western and southwestern provinces. It's called. The story of diusim tofu? People use loach as a metaphor for cunning Dong Zhuo. The loach was so anxious that it had nowhere to hide in the hot soup that it got into the cold tofu. The result can't escape the fate of being cooked. Just as Wang Yunxian used the honey trap when telling the story of Diexin.