Today, when people write about fish and coriander, they will say that they have never seen it in Chengdu's overview. Recently, because of other things, I was just sorting out the "Overview of Chengdu", so I thought of carefully combing the source of the name Yuxiang.
As early as 1986, Mr. Xiong Sizhi mentioned in the book:
Later generations copied this conclusion. But the process of Mr Xiong Sizhi's argument is debatable. First of all, the evidence is not strong. There is nothing in the overview of Chengdu, not necessarily from Sichuan or even Chengdu. "Overview of Chengdu" clearly States that "there are dozens of examples to see Chengdu customs." [3] Moreover, there is no "kung pao chicken" in the Chengdu Survey, but Mr. Li notes that kung pao chicken is native to Ding Baozhen, and everyone still uses this saying, and few people question it. However, I checked several Sichuan books in the late Qing Dynasty, including General Situation of Chengdu, New Records of Feast and Food, Excerpts of Four Seasons' Recipes, and Old Accounts of Mr. Li, but I didn't find the word "fishy eyes". At this point, I think Mr. Xiong Sizhi's conclusion is probably correct. After checking these books, we are more confident to make this conclusion.
But I found that "Chengdu home cooking" in Chengdu Overview includes "fried meat with sea pepper" and "fried meat with cowpea" [3]. Ms. Zeng Yi's "Zhongfulu" mentioned that kimchi "especially green pepper cowpea is beautiful" [4], which shows that it is the most common kimchi in Sichuan in Qing Dynasty. However, kimchi is not used in all the methods of cooking fish in Chengdu Overview, so the view that "fried meat with kimchi is a change of the method of cooking fish with kimchi" is not very valid.
Then check the previous recipes and papers.
1960 China famous recipes:
I have two questions.
1. The method of fish-flavored shredded pork in this book has no douban;
In this book, there are few pickled peppers, much less vinegar and a little less sugar.
1974 and 1977 are both considered to be made by folk cooking methods, so "bean fish" is no longer mentioned [6-7]. But this explanation is too brief.
In addition, the fish flavor summary is revised as follows:
This statement is often used in subsequent books, and Sichuan cuisine classics are no exception.
In 1979, Mr. Feng Ruiyang first put forward the view that fish flavor originated from fish pepper [8]:
And said that not only can you make shredded pork, but you can also make pork liver, cabbage and eggplant.
As for whether fish and pepper put live fish in the same bubble, the author is not very sure, but it is not very important, because fish and pepper do have its name, which is in the overview of Chengdu. There is nothing wrong with the name fish-flavored shredded pork logically.
At this point, these two assumptions can be simply expressed as:
1. Soak live fish and Chili together → Fish Chili → Fish-flavored shredded pork.
2. Bean fish → Fish-flavored shredded pork
In the 1980s, there were two articles about pickled peppers in live crucian carp. 1982, Mr. Wang Kun and Mr. Rusong think that the flavor of fish comes from the seasoning for cooking fish [9], but they clearly point out the origin of the name of fish pepper and attach the method of "soaking fish with pepper":
Mr. Che Fu's book Miscellaneous Talks on Sichuan Cuisine introduces in great detail how to soak crucian carp and pepper together in Xinfan [10]. The writing date of this article is unknown, but it is mentioned that He Zitao died in 1982, and the first edition of Sichuan Miscellaneous Talks was published in 1990, probably between 1982 and 1990.
1983 teacher Luo's practice of shredded pork with fish flavor [1 1] said:
However, when it comes to fish-flavored liver tablets,
However, this view can't be found in other books, and it seems to be a family statement.
This is the first time I have seen fish coriander without pickled peppers. It can be seen that the discussion about the origin of fish flavor will affect the summary of fish flavor and the development of fish coriander. Simply expressed as
1. Pepper soaked in live fish → Fish Chili pepper → Fish-flavored shredded pork → Fish and coriander must be pickled with pepper.
2. Bean fish → Fish-flavored shredded pork → Fish-flavored other dishes can use watercress, and onion, ginger and garlic are more important.
1997 Mr. Zhong summed up three naming theories of fish flavor [12].
Among them, the homophonic theory of "fish flavor" or "fish fragrance" was put forward by American Barbara Trop. It seems that no one in China has heard of this statement, so we will not discuss it.
On the theory of soaking fish, Mr Zhong's criticism is:
I agree with the first question. Does the pickled pepper with fish really have a special flavor? But the latter point is problematic. For the spread of the word "fish flavor", it is enough to use the word "fish pepper", and it is not necessary to use the fish in pickled peppers everywhere. Now there are fish-flavored eggplant seeds learned from Sichuan cuisine in Cantonese cuisine, and even pickled peppers have never been used.
He holds the imitation that fish coriander comes from fake fish and sea pepper:
Just a few months later, Mr. Luo Junhua questioned the above [13], and I will summarize it a little.
Doubt 1:
If celery is used in "fake fish sea pepper", the taste will not be the same as that of "fake fish sea pepper" and "fish flavor" mentioned by Mr. Zhong. But I haven't seen it yet, so I must ask Fang Jia for advice.
Doubt 2:
But he said:
This argument can be said to have no support. And the kimchi used for pickled fish tastes very different.
In July of 20 15, Mr. Zhong came across the above contents and wrote an article in August to refute it [14]. This article is actually a bit biased, such as questioning:
In fact, it was Xiong Sizhi who first talked about the history of kimchi from the history of Chinese ceramics [15], and archaeology is also an extremely important part in the textual research of diet.
In response to Mr. Luo Junhua's question 2, he said that this is because the "salt merchant banquet menu" may be incomplete. This is true, but it doesn't help to prove that the fish smell comes from fake fish peppers.
Query 1 No response.
Mr. Zhong changed his argument at this point:
However, he put forward a new argument:
So is the fake fish pepper imitating pickled fish or imitating douban crucian carp? Seeing Mr. Zhong's description, I feel more like a pickled fish.
I have a few questions about Mr. Zhong's argument.
1. Does fake fish and sea pepper reuse celery? The method is very different from the taste of fish.
2. Why must there be fake fish and sea pepper before fish-flavored shredded pork? The information provided by Mr. Zhong does not prove that the fake fish flavor is produced before the fish flavor, but it is possible that the fake fish flavor and shredded pork with fish flavor are produced independently. Even if the fish-flavored shredded pork was first produced elsewhere, it is completely reasonable for the fake fish and pepper to spread to Zigong.
In fact, it is very difficult to research diet. Each hypothesis has some truth, but it may also have its own problems. After discovering the problem, we need to find as much information as possible to repair the hypothesis, otherwise the more we delay, the more likely it is to become a headless case.
Summarize all the above assumptions and my questions.
1. Soak live fish and Chili together → Fish Chili → Fish-flavored shredded pork.
My question: There are both fish, peppers and fried meat with pickled peppers in Chengdu, but there is no fish-flavored name. Why did it take decades to get the title of fish-flavored shredded pork?
2. 1. Bean fish → Fish-flavored shredded pork
My question: there is no watercress in the popular fish-flavored shredded pork, and the proportion of sweet and sour in the seasoning of watercress fish is also very different from that of fish-flavored shredded pork. Moreover, there are many ways to fish in Sichuan in the late Qing Dynasty. Why must it be bean fish?
2.2. Pickled fish → Zigong fake fish and sea pepper → fish-flavored shredded pork.
My question: the taste of fake fish and sea pepper seems to be different from that of fish-flavored shredded pork. The age of fake fish and sea pepper is unknown and the causal relationship is unknown.
From the age of hypothesis, the latest age of 1 version is probably the 1970s.
Mr. Zhong wrote in 20 12 [16]:
I don't know which Taiwan Province province recipe 1956 is. If it is correct, the idea of cooking fish for seasoning may have existed before the founding of the People's Republic of China, so it was brought to Taiwan Province Province. Therefore, version 2. 1 was popular earlier, and version 2.2 was put forward by teacher Zhong later.
No matter which version, it is actually something related to fish to illustrate the fragrance of fish.
Let's assume that there was a dish for cooking fish in the Republic of China, and let's call it "a fish". Ideally, the historical record of "a fish" is just earlier than that of fish coriander, and the seasoning used is exactly the same as that of fish coriander, so I tend to conclude that the name of fish coriander comes from "a fish". The question is whether we can find such a plate.
The key points of fish and coriander seasoning are nothing more than three points: 1, pickled pepper, 2, onion, ginger and garlic, 3, sweet and sour. If fried meat with pickled peppers is earlier than fish and coriander, and onions, ginger and garlic are too common in Chinese food seasonings, then I want to put forward a new hypothesis that "A fish" is sweet and sour fish. The first time I saw the sweet and sour taste was in Wu's Zhong in Song Dynasty, and there were some books in Qing Dynasty, but all of them were used for cooking. The popular sweet and sour pork ribs, sweet and sour fish, sweet and sour pork and braised pork all have a long history. In fact, the first time I saw someone cooking sweet and sour pork food in the Qing Dynasty was when I was sorting out books in the late Qing Dynasty, such as Investigation in Chengdu. There is also an example of using sweet and sour sheep liver in the excerpt of the four seasons recipe. However, although this book was written in the late Qing Dynasty, the date of copying is unknown, and it has not been proved by A Survey of Chengdu and Feast. )
Then, because sweet and sour pork dishes are only available to fish at first, if this seasoning is used on shredded pork, shredded pork with fish flavor will appear. But I also immediately had doubts myself. During the Republic of China, Sichuan cuisine developed a series of sweet and sour stir-fried dishes. Why is it that only pickled peppers are called fish flavor? Mr. Fool said that Sichuan-style sweet and sour fish added pickled pepper and onion, ginger and garlic, and 1960 menu also used pickled pepper and sweet and sour fish [17]. So my hypothesis becomes:
2.3. Sweet and sour fish in the late Qing Dynasty → hot and sour fish → hot and sour fish+shredded pork → fish-flavored shredded pork.
This hypothesis still lacks sufficient support, especially in the late Qing Dynasty, the introduction of sweet and sour fish was very brief, pickled peppers were not seen, and the proportion of sweet and sour fish was unknown. Because many dishes in 1960' s "China Famous Cookbook" were summarized orally by teachers who grew up during the Republic of China, I assume that this kind of pickled pepper prepared by every family was applied to sweet and sour fish during the Republic of China. But I still hope to see more information about the Republic of China. I searched and found nothing. Please give me more opinions and supplements.
After writing this article, I and @ Jingjing Jingjing. He doesn't think it's necessary to associate the fish flavor with a specific dish (that is, the "A fish" assumed above). I quote him as follows:
Can be written as:
2.4. Fixed combination of fish seasoning in cooking → fish-flavored shredded pork.
The support of this hypothesis comes from the cooking dishes of Sichuan cuisine in the 1960s and 1970s, and many of them use this seasoning combination, such as douban catfish (all books are silver carp, commonly known as silver carp in Sichuan), sweet and sour crispy fish, shredded yellow croaker, pickled fish, mullet [18] and garlic-flavored grilled fish.
However, it should be noted that vinegar can remove the earthy smell, and there are many studies both in practice and in science. The two main substances causing soil odor, soil odor and 2- methyl iso-camphor, are tertiary alcohols in structure and can be dehydrated into odorless olefins even under weak organic acid conditions [20].
In this article, I am especially grateful to @ jingjingjingjingjing for providing the old formula information.
References:
[1] idiot. Talking about eating on weekends-the mystery of fish flavor [ol]. (2004-09- 17) [20 16-03- 16]./post-books-50876- 1 . shtml
[2] Xiong Sizhi. Cooking essay [M]. China Prospect Publishing House, 1986: 14.
[3] Fu Chongju. General situation of Chengdu (II) [M]. Bashu Bookstore, 1987: 279.
[4] Zeng Yi. Feedback [M]. China Commercial Press, 1984: 16.
[5] China's famous recipes (the seventh of Sichuan style series) [M]. Light Industry Press,1960:142-143.
[6] Chongqing cookbook [M]. Revolutionary Committee of Chongqing Catering Service Company, 1974: 22.
[7] Sichuan cuisine menu (1) [M]. Sichuan Vegetable and Aquatic Food Service Company, 1977: 1 1.
[8] Feng Ruiyang. There is no fish, why is it called fish fragrance? [J]。 Food Science and Technology, 1979, 9: 009.
[9] Wang Kun, Rusong. Fish flavor in Sichuan cuisine [J]. Food Science and Technology, 1982, 1: 020.
[10] Chefu. Talking about Sichuan cuisine [M]. Life? Reading? Xinzhi Sanlian Bookstore, 2004: 146.
Luo. Preparation of several fish-flavored Sichuan dishes [J]. Food Science and Technology, 1983, 5: 035.
[12] Zhong explores the exotic origin of "fish flavor" [J]. Sichuan cuisine, 1997, 7: 039.
[13] Luo Junhua. "Fish Fragrance" does not come from Zigong Folk ── Query on Zhong's "Exploring the Origin of Fish Fragrance" [J]. Sichuan cuisine, 1997, 1 1: 029.
Clock. The wonder of Sichuan cuisine —— On the origin of fish flavor —— Reply to Mr. Luo Junhua's query on the article "Exploring the origin of fish flavor abroad" [ol]. (20 15-08- 10)[20 16-03-08]/content . aspx？ nid=6390
[15] Xiong sizhi. From the special "dowry" to the invention era of kimchi [J]. China Food, 1987, 7: 036.
[16] Marriage between fake fish and sea pepper and fish-flavored shredded pork [ol]. (20 15-05) [20 16-03- 16]./Content.aspx？ nid=6390
[17] China famous prescription (the seventh Sichuan style) [M]. Light Industry Press,1960:133-134.
[18] China's famous cookbooks (the seventh series of Sichuan style) [M]. Light Industry Press,1960:115-146.
[19] Sichuan recipes (1) [M]. Sichuan Vegetable and Aquatic Food Service Company, 1977: 158.
[20]Pahila J G, Yape E. Using different organic acids to reduce odor compounds (soil odor and 2- methyl isoborneol) [J].AACL biological stream, 2013,6 (6): 51-5/kloc-0.