In Changshu, the old rule of ordering noodles is to order toppings first, and then order noodles.
The so-called "topping" is the side dish of noodles, Soviet noodle soup. Side dishes are usually prepared before opening the door to welcome guests every day. When the guests come, they scoop out a bowl of noodles and pour the corresponding side dishes on the noodles, which is for "topping". There are always twenty or thirty kinds of toppings provided by various stores. When you meet a glutton who loves life and is generous, a bowl of noodles should be accompanied by two or three toppings. A variety of items are combined, and the styles are so rich that people don't eat for a month. I don't take the same sample for a month, which seems to be necessary for noodle restaurants. Contrary to the popular belief that "northerners eat noodles and southerners eat rice", eating a bowl of noodles in the morning is as natural as a rice tree with leaves for Changshu people.
After ordering the topping, the shopkeeper will take care of it enthusiastically while collecting money: whether to pay attention to green or avoid green, red soup or white soup, soup or wide soup. Red soup tastes different from white soup. More soup and less soup affect the taste after soaking. "Green" refers to garlic leaves, and how much you use is "customized". Old diners don't look at the menu. They have a "kindness" that they are used to eating. Sometimes they don't even have to ask. As soon as the shopkeeper nods and waves, he will bring the "kindness" of their old friend to the table.
The exquisiteness of Changshu people is manifested in eating noodles, which is a bit "pimple". Noodles must be strong, and noodle soup should also be exquisite. There are three kinds of common noodle soup: one is made of eel bones and pig bones, and it takes five or six hours to slowly stew out the hanging flavor to match the meat noodles; One is made of fish scales and eel bones. And the soup is milky white to match the fish noodles; The third is chicken soup, which is the best in the world. What noodle soup goes with what ingredients? People who pay attention silently. After ordering toppings, they looked at the noodle soup prepared by this store, and they drew a lever for the quality of this store.
After continuous innovation and refinement, Changshu noodle restaurant has already become a gourmet melting pot for diners. Except for a few varieties that need thickening, such as eel paste and kidney flower, most of the toppings in traditional Su-style noodle restaurants are prepared in advance, and the pots are neatly arranged. Just pour a spoonful into the bowl after the noodles are filled.
If you meet picky diners and think that the toppings cooked in the cauldron and put outside are only delicious if they are fried now, the boss has "found another love" for them-fried noodles.
Through the glass, you can see that on the big table in the middle of the kitchen, there are prepared ingredients, whether it is sliced pork with winter bamboo shoots or shredded shrimp, which are freshly fried. Foreign diners are impressed and feel that "the topping of Changshu noodles is simply a recipe". You can also ask for a "hidden menu". Anyway, the toppings are all fried now, so you can mix them at will. Sprinkle with your favorite garlic leaves, chopped green onion and coriander. The freshly cut noodles are forced by the heat of the freshly fried topping immediately poured, and the degree of raw and cooked is just right. The umami flavor enters the noodles with the heat, and the taste is even more addictive.
On the morning of the weekend, the mother took the baby and became the main foodie group in the noodle restaurant. Want a bowl of noodles and a small bowl, just don't waste two points. In a small bowl, dial a quarter first, then a third. When half a bowl of noodles is not enough, the baby will grow up. A little bigger, the baby has become an adult, and Changshu's "a bowl of noodles in the morning" has another old foodie.
So noodles are not just noodles? It is in this bowl's most daily, common, lasting and changeable taste that the flowing water is the strong homesickness and exquisiteness in Changshu people's bones.
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The original text is taken from the authentic scenery of Changshu, with additions, deletions and changes.