The nine-bucket bowl, which is mainly steamed vegetables, was originally named after the "nine major dishes" of steamed vegetables. Namely: soft fried steamed pork, steamed ribs, steamed pork with rice flour, steamed soft-shelled turtle, steamed mud chicken, steamed mud duck, steamed elbow, salted pork and boiled water. At the same time, in Sichuan dialect, "bucket" means big container. Calling this scene with nine bowls is also praising the richness of its dishes. In rural areas of Chengdu Plain, whenever you get married, have children, build a house, etc., there is a custom of inviting friends and relatives to get together and have a big meal. , commonly known as eating nine bowls. The origin of this word is because of the popularity of drinking in large bowls in Chengdu during the Republic of China. It is called "nine bowls" because there are generally nine bowls of vegetables in each seat. In addition, there is another reason, that is, the people regard "Nine" as an auspicious number, and there are some sayings such as "Nine students live long", "Nine students pass the exam" and "Forever (Nine)". For such a banquet, "nine bowls" is the minimum standard. Of course, there are also seven bowls for the poor or eleven bowls for the rich. The "nine bowls" in history can be seven or eleven bowls, but it will never be eight or ten bowls. Why is this? In western sichuan bazi, pig troughs for feeding pigs are generally made of stone, which is a folk custom. Taking "eating ten bowls of stones" as a curse is the code word of pigs, and it is impossible to entertain guests with ten bowls of vegetables. And you can't put eight bowls of food on the table, because beggars (beggars) usually come to congratulate or cry when you open the table. They often play with lotus flowers and sing whatever they see wherever they go. Because the host family believes in the principle that "guests go to Wang's home", whether it is a red wedding or a white wedding, they should warmly entertain beggars who come to join us. It's just that they don't eat a few dishes from other guests, but a bowl of bibimbap for each person. In this way, a square table with two people sitting on one side happens to be eight bowls of rice, so people in western Sichuan call it a beggar's seat. Therefore, when giving a banquet, the numbers eight and ten must be taboo. "Jiudou Bowl" is a traditional Hakka food, which is often placed at the head of the farmhouse dam and is also called "Bazi Banquet". The dam banquet can best reflect the eating habits of Chengdu people. However, in order to taste and atmosphere, the form and content should be very elegant. Formally, the more diners, the better. Eating is like fighting a war of annihilation, with great momentum, strong soldiers and fierce actions. During the Spring Festival, when there are weddings, funerals and weddings, we can often see such a scene in the rural areas of western Sichuan: dozens or hundreds of people gather in one place, and after a burst of firecrackers, they are scattered in front of the Eight Immortals table according to the differences between men and women and the level of seniority in the sky, stretching out vegetables and holding glasses. Not far away, the earthen stoves dug everywhere were piled with tall steamers and steaming vines, and the simple chopping board was filled with vegetables and tableware. The chef with a greasy apron around his waist quickly waved a spatula or kitchen knife, and bowls of vegetables were served like running water. The host family has been calling the guests to say that there are few people and the food is not good, so everyone forgives a lot ... This is a lively scene of eating "nine bowls" in rural western sichuan bazi. In Sichuan dialect, "dou" means a big container, and nine bowls are used to call this scene, which also means praising its rich dishes. Because the content of this banquet is steamed vegetables and bacon (both meat), the jargon is called "three steaming and nine buckles" (pot steaming, cage steaming and bowl steaming), so the rural chef who specializes in "nine bowls" banquet is also called "oiler". The content of the nine bowls is generally that farmers make ready-made chicken, duck, fish, eggs and seasonal vegetables into Sichuan home-cooked dishes. For example, hibiscus eggs, steamed chicken and duck, steamed chop suey, sweet boiled pork, salted boiled pork, steamed pork, steamed pork elbow, kung pao chicken, shredded leek, fish-flavored pork slices, white oil liver slices, pepper chicken slices, spicy double crisp, sweet and sour pork tenderloin, three fresh white sauce, braised pork elbow with sauce, hot-fried chicken with ginger sauce, and steamed duck strips with powder. Of course, sausages, bacon and sauced meat produced by farmers are indispensable. Up to now, there is still a song "Nine Bowls of Songs" circulating in Shuangliu County near Chengdu: "The host invited me to lunch, and nine bowls defeated Gusu. The first bowl of fish liver fried fish belly, two bowls of chicken stewed Fritillaria. Three bowls of lard stewed tofu and four bowls of fried carp bird's nest. Five bowls of gold hooks with vinegar and six bowls of money to hang gourds. Seven bowls of chopping block and eight bowls of fat. Nine bowls of clear soup gargle, full of wine and rice. " History of Jiudou Bowl in Yibin Since the Qing Dynasty and the Republic of China, Yibin folks have invited people to eat a "full moon" every time they get married or celebrate their opening. Traditional banquets are mostly nine kinds of meat dishes, commonly known as "nine bowls" or "nine bowls". It is said that this custom of "nine bowls" originated in Xiaogan Township, Macheng County, Hubei Province. This kind of Xikou, which Yibin people love to see and hear, has the characteristics of "Dahebang" among the five major schools of Sichuan cuisine, and its spicy taste is slightly inferior to that of "Chongqing Bang". The salty taste is slightly stronger than that of "Chengdu Gang"; Unlike the "Xiaohe Gang" in Suining, Santai, Nanchong and Guang 'an, it focuses on "speculation"; What's more, unlike those "self-help" who win by "strange dishes", they satisfy the tastes of "Grandpa Salt" and "Sugar Factory Boss"; Almost all the nine bowls are named after "pig", with bamboo shoots, taro, pedals (also known as "Hu Aishan" and fire sticks) and so on. In the old society, materials were scarce, and most people took "nine bowls" as the top grade. Therefore, up to now, Yibin folks still take "eating nine bowls" as a synonym for banquet guests. Although today's dishes are mostly in the form of ten or twenty when entertaining guests, Yibin people still shout with the humor of "fuzzy numbers" and "misty poems": Those gentlemen are eating "nine bowls" again. Structure The structure of Yibin folk banquet "Nine Bowls" is generally as follows: Steamed head bowl (generally including steamed head bowl, crispy meatball head bowl and miscellaneous shake head bowl), meat buckle (boiled white) and miscellaneous buckle (steamed pork with powder) are the main dishes; In addition, it is served with pork tripe and scraps from the above four dishes, and mixed with bamboo shoots, taro, simmered kelp and vermicelli to make five bowls, that is, nine bowls. If it is all pork and mutton (beef was not served in the old society) and there are no chickens and ducks, it is also called a "big water mat". Poor and middle peasants often subtract braised pork from their last meal, and they mainly use their heads and feet (miscellaneous bellies) to enter the water, also known as "eight bowls of water". In order to show their wealth, rich people often add main ingredients to the first bowl, which are called "tendon mat", "bamboo sun mat", "sea cucumber mat" and "shark fin mat" to show their higher grade. Some even made a fuss about the last course, adding steamed chicken with mushrooms, ribs and laver to make a "mushroom mat", burning sand hot pot to make a "hot pot mat", and inviting master chef in Zhaotong and other places to hold a "barbecue mat". In the 1990s, the "Nine Bowls" not only changed their packaging, but also spread from pork to chicken, duck, fish and seaweed. At the same time, the number of dishes has increased from nine to several times. The old "Nine Bowls" are only kept in some rural areas. People have begun to talk about whether it is still appropriate to use "nine bowls" when entertaining guests. Some people have been accusing the outrageous behavior of "the more dishes, the better". Most people think that when recalling "nine bowls", don't forget the difficulty of "boiled melon", especially those over 40 years old think that we should cherish the hard-won food and clothing.