"Friend, I advise you not to stay in a big city like Shanghai and just keep a few theories, a few statistical tables or a set of 'Eighteen Secrets of Political Jianghu' in your head all day long. It’s also very beneficial to travel around and see life outside the big cities that are economic centers or political centers... So although this time it’s something unrelated, I’m quite willing to go back to my hometown. "

In 1932, before the "January 28th" incident, the writer Mao Dun returned to Wuzhen from Shanghai and wrote this "Miscellaneous Notes on Hometown". Jiangnan is the destination of the Chinese people's soul. More than 80 years have passed, the times have changed, but the mood of the people who come to Wuzhen is quite similar: People who don't want to be pinned in the metropolis, come out to experience a different kind of world and gain inner peace. .

Mao Dun probably would not have imagined that his hometown would become the most popular travel destination in China, receiving more than 10 million tourists a year and becoming the number one ancient town in the hearts of countless people. On the other hand, international events such as the Wuzhen Theater Festival and the World Internet Conference have pushed Wuzhen into the spotlight time and time again...

Can ancient charm and new trends have both? This is a controversial point in Wuzhen. But having said that, if there is a place in China that can combine both classical style and avant-garde attributes, then this place must be in Jiangnan. Why can't it be Wuzhen?

This incident is recorded in "The Reading Place Under the Tower" by another Wuzhen native, the writer and painter Mu Xin. In early 1995, Mu Xin, who had been away from his hometown for more than 50 years, returned to Wuzhen. He was disgusted with the decline of his hometown. Only the stone bridges and flowing water made him emotional:

"The water in the canals on the river is light green. , vague, people have been drinking it for hundreds of years. When I was a child, I stood at the river dock and watched the light green river water slowly flowing by, patting the shore one by one, making a faint sound. Splashing water - now I see it again, exactly the same as what I saw when I was a child..." (Mu Xin's "Wuzhen")

Viewing the water from the other side seems to be a must-do for everyone who comes to Wuzhen matter. Water is the soul of water towns. When soft waves appear, the grand scenery of Jiangnan unfolds like a picture scroll.

The grand scene of Wuzhen is first reflected in its size.

Today's Wuzhen has two towns in the Ming and Qing Dynasties, bounded by the north-south Shihe River. Qingzhen is in the east, belonging to Tongxiang, Jiaxing, and Wuzhen is in the west, belonging to Wucheng, Huzhou. Shihe, collectively known as Wuqing Town, was later simply called Wuzhen.

Wuzhen is seven miles in length and four miles in width, while Qingzhen is seven miles in length and two miles in width. Its area is so vast that it has exceeded Huzhou Prefecture and Jiaxing Prefecture in the same period. At the end of the Qing Dynasty and the beginning of the Republic of China, Wuqing Town was once divided into seven small towns, a scale rarely seen in the south of the Yangtze River. At the same time, it is also one of the most populous towns in Jiangnan: when Mao Dun returned to his hometown, the town's population reached more than 115,000.

Such a large town can only develop at the busiest node of the Jiangnan water network system. Wuzhen is divided into East, West, South and North Gates. Gates are water gates, which are quite common in towns in the south of the Yangtze River, such as Nanxun, Luzhi, Puyuan and other places. The four gates of Wuzhen, leading to Jiaxing in the east, Huzhou in the west, Hangzhou in the south, and Suzhou in the north, are naturally the "golden intersection" in the hinterland of Jiangnan.

The imperial court did not approve the establishment of a county in Wuzhen, but set up a separate "Zhejiang Branch" (Jiangzhe Branch) and appointed Tongzhi (equivalent to a deputy mayor) to manage it. There is a couplet in the lobby of the government office: "Ping vassal two Zhejiang, control three Wu." It is a small town government office, but it is as imposing as the governor's palace.

Today’s Wuzhen can still vaguely see the charm of the past. In Dongzha alone, a number of time-honored brands such as Huiyuan Pawnshop, Hongyuan Taidye House, Xiangshantang Pharmacy, Sanbai Winery, and Fangluge Tea House have resumed business. , handicrafts, pharmacies, catering industries, all in the county can be found here, like a specimen of Jiangnan society in the Ming and Qing Dynasties. Mu Xin grew up in Caishen Bay, Dongzha. He recalled that Wuzhen was full of vitality. “The white walls and green branches, red lights and green curtains were mixed in, and the colorful clothes, BMWs and cars were passing by, making it look like a peaceful and prosperous time.”

It should be said that this kind of vitality is like the river flowing slowly under the bridge in Mu Xin's eyes, with a slight sound but no splash. In his subconscious, the BMW cars coming and going are slow, the mail is slow, and even the sun is getting slower. However, the youth in his memory is connected with "you can only love one person in your life".

In fact, it is not just Mu Xin. In the atmosphere of the Jiangnan water town, it is easy not to notice a deep house compound among the white walls and black tiles, but it is difficult to ignore the subtle fluctuations in the heart. The water town entrusts people with all their imaginations about a better life. For outsiders, Jiangnan is a hometown they have never returned to. They have never met each other, but the atmosphere is already familiar.

Wuzhen is located in the hinterland of the Hangjiahu Plain on the lower reaches of the Yangtze River. Ten thousand years ago, it was impacted by the Yangtze River and Qiantang River, forming a land covered with river networks and swamps. In the 1970s, archaeologists discovered the remains of the Majiabang Culture in Tanjiawan, Wuzhen, proving that ancestors 7,000 years ago had settled here, cultivated rice, and made stone tools and pottery, giving birth to the source of Jiangnan culture.

Civilization is accompanied by war.

During the Spring and Autumn Period more than 2,000 years ago, the two countries Wu and Yue in the Taihu Lake Basin were at war. The Wu people garrisoned and prepared for war here, which was known as "Wu garrison". "Wuzhen" appeared in the Tang Dynasty. It is different from the "town" we know. It is more like a military organization like "Wuzhen", and the leader is the guarding general Wuzan. This brave general later became the patron saint of Wuzhen, and there is still a temple commemorating him in the Xizha Scenic Area.

In the Song Dynasty, there were records of Wu and Qing towns. These are the towns we know, and the chiefs also became civil servants such as town supervisors. This change in nature is inseparable from the development of Jiangnan during the Tang and Song Dynasties. The swamps around Taihu Lake have been drained. "When Suhu Lake is ripe, the world is full" and "There is heaven above, and Suzhou and Hangzhou below" were all said at that time. The two "paradises" are connected by the Grand Canal, and the midpoint is Wuzhen.

Because of its strategic location, Wuzhen was severely affected by the wars caused by the changing dynasties; but also because of its important position, Wuzhen was quickly reborn after each decline. The development model of water towns is very simple. It is nothing more than using rivers as links to form river streets near the water, and then deep alleys. The settlement pattern is shaped by water, and people's sight lines rotate, depress and soothe as the streets wind. As a Wuzhen native who grew up here, he was influenced by the life aesthetics of the water town. Mu Xin said that his writing does not pursue abnormality and peculiarity, "every writer should be like this."

Even though commerce is developed, the water town has no charm. Since the Song Dynasty, Wuzhen has produced 64 Jinshi and 161 Juren. Compared with other ancient towns in the south of the Yangtze River or state capitals in the mainland, the number is quite impressive. Mu Xin's ancestor was a Shaoxing native. He made money and established himself by doing business in Wuzhen, and his descendants are all scholars. Mao Dun's ancestor was a farmer in the countryside of Wuzhen. He also started in business and passed down poems and books to his family.

In Jiangnan on the eve of modern times, the people were prosperous, the culture was prosperous, and the so-called "germination of capitalism" even appeared. What would a spontaneous modern paradise look like if it were not impacted by Western culture? No one knows the answer. However, Wuzhen’s contemporary ancient town restoration and cultural reconstruction have once again made people see the attitude of the “Pioneer Jiangnan”.

The decline of towns in Jiangnan in modern times is the decline of tradition; on the other hand, the rebirth of today's water towns is the return of tradition. After all, the Chinese are homesick.

Wuzhen is the latest to be developed among the "Six Ancient Towns in the South of the Yangtze River", a typical example of catching up from behind. In 1999, the government established the Ancient Town Protection and Tourism Development Management Committee, with Chen Xianghong as director. This is a historic moment for Chen Xianghong, Wuzhen and even China’s tourism industry.

The Wuzhen that Chen Xianghong took over was in a state of desolation. In the words of painter Chen Danqing, it was "like a hell filled with smoke, roosters crowing and water flowing". Before the management committee was established, an old lady in Wuzhen accidentally caused a fire while cooking. Houses dozens of meters along the river were burned down. It was Chen Xianghong who was in charge of fire prevention. He understands better than others that protection is not just about repairing the old.

The first thing to be restored was Dongzha. Chen Xianghong invited a professional restoration team from Tongji University to plan and personally direct, supervise and inspect the work. The restoration team collected a lot of old materials from surrounding towns. The wooden doors and windows of Wuzhen houses and shops were repaired and painted twice with traditional tung oil. Smoke detectors were installed in the rooms to prevent fires.

In 1988, a new road, Xinhua Road, was opened next to Mao Dun’s former residence. In order to make up for this failure that gutted the ancient town, the square in front of the Xiuzhen Guan Ancient Theater was re-planned, and cloisters were built on both sides to separate the old and new. space. The square has become the "visual center", making the old street more lively and rhythmic, and also diluting the sense of fragmentation caused by the cement road.

Xiuzhen Guan is newly built in Ming Dynasty style, but the paint treatment of doors and windows is different from that of restored ancient houses. According to Wuzhen's restoration concept, new buildings must be in harmony with the surrounding environment, but they must use new techniques and materials to recreate the grand scenery of the south of the Yangtze River, but they must never be "fake antiques." This is consistent with the concept of protecting ancient European cities. Twenty years ago, it was even more advanced.

Chinese people have placed too many beautiful things in the image of water towns, so they often go to Jiangnan ancient towns with a feeling of going home. However, the development of ancient towns is uneven, not to mention the warmth of home. Even the hospitality is not up to par. But this is Jiangnan, and it is definitely not a place where being born once is enough.

Wuzhen wants to change, starting with repairing Xizha.

If you have ever been to some ancient towns, you can probably understand this feeling: looking at the fireworks around you, the original tranquility seems to have been destroyed by your arrival, and the camera in your hand always reminds you " intruder". You can’t go back to your home in Jiangnan.

As the saying goes, “You don’t know you are a guest in a dream.” Xizha’s strategy is to “create dreams” by relocating the indigenous people and vacating the ancient town to turn it into a dream theater. The dream of Wuzhen belongs to all those who love Jiangnan.

Without the indigenous people, there would be no so-called "interlopers", and the residents could become the protagonists of life in the water town. The East Gate opens at 7 o'clock in the morning, and the bustling tourists disturb the tranquility of the ancient town; the West Gate opens at 9 o'clock, and the most beautiful scenery in the morning fog can be enjoyed privately.

You can also sleep in and do nothing, letting time and beautiful scenery pass by. Loss and wasting can also be a way to open up the ancient town.

Commerce is originally the foundation for the prosperity of Jiangnan towns, but the over-developed ancient towns are always filled with the same shops. "The food in the ancient town is not delicious" and "the food in the ancient town is of poor quality" are familiar complaints. Xizha wants to recreate the prosperity of the market and also wants people to regain the fun of shopping, so each store is carefully selected, with one product per store. No promotion, no brainwashing, genuine products, buy only if you like them, this is the confidence of Jiangnan.

Wucun, which opened to the outside world in 2016, is an idyllic poem. Just like Tao Yuanming's "Returning to the Garden and Living in the Fields" said, "At the foot of the southern mountain where beans are planted, the grass is full of bean sprouts and the bean sprouts are sparse. In the morning, I clean up the wasteland and filthy, and I return home with the moon and the hoe." What I was doing may be the fake "the grass is abundant with bean sprouts and sparse". What you get from the technique is the artistic conception and joy of "returning with a hoe in the moonlight".

Urbanization and fast-paced social life have in turn inspired people to return to the countryside. Therefore, Li Ziqi and Huanong Brothers became popular, "Longing for Life" became a hit, and major reality shows turned their attention to the countryside. , this summer "Extreme Challenge" also came to Wuzhen Wucun to film an episode of "Helping Farmers for Fun".

The countryside is an ideal place for people to "return to nature after spending a long time in cages". Picking, fishing, hand-knitting and other daily activities in Jiangnan can be experienced, or you can experience Jiangnan by riding in the water town Zeguo. texture. Working at sunrise and resting at sunset are hard to come by in city life.

The taste of Jiangnan is passed down by the skilled hands of the people in the water town. The seasonal green dumplings and malt pancakes in spring, the mung bean soup that relieves heat in summer, the fragrant osmanthus rice cake in autumn, and the fried cat ears and sesame paste that were rewards from parents in childhood... because in the countryside, these taste more delicious. There is the weight of the earth and the friendship of the country.

Wucun’s business model is relatively advanced, offering all-inclusive services at one price, providing clothing, housing and transportation in rural areas in the south of the Yangtze River, while minimizing the commercial overtones of “drama”. No promotion, no trivial matters, safe food and accommodation, just doing what you like with the people you like.

From Dong and Xizha to Wucun, tourists experience two identities and two life changes, namely, townspeople and villagers. The town is the center of the village, and the village is the hinterland of the town. Fei Xiaotong calls it the "foot of the village." Only with the men farming and weaving in the countryside can the commerce and entertainment in the town exist. Eventually, the village and town merged into one, connected into a large, three-dimensional space - Jiangnan. In this cultural atmosphere, Wuzhen poses an open question to all those who come here:

What is the life you want?

Wuzhen is a dreamy immersive drama, while the Theater Festival is the "drama within a drama" and its climax.

"In Beijing, after watching a play, you will walk out to Chang'an Street and Dongsishitiao. This dream may wake up all of a sudden. But in Wuzhen, walking into the town and getting lost in the theater is the beginning. One dream leads into another. ...Everyone who comes here is participating in the performance." (Huang Lei interview, 2013)

The theater performance and the Jiangnan water town itself are not related, but they are brought together. It is itself a product of the idealism of founders such as Chen Xianghong, Huang Lei, Lai Shengchuan, and Meng Jinghui. Unexpectedly, this kind of mix and match is particularly "sexy". In addition to the newly built grand theater, Wuzhen has also transformed several old houses into small theaters with charm. Chen Danqing said that watching a play there is like a hall meeting in the past. Meng Jinghui said, "A I accidentally took the lead again."

Wuzhen is a stage prepared for everyone with dreams. Street performers perform in the open air here, and people who love drama and life gather together to have a carnival. This has exceeded people's imagination of Jiangnan.

In fact, Jiangnan is infinite, and it is people who limit their imagination of it. During the Ming and Qing Dynasties, the gardens, calligraphy and painting, Kunqu opera, and manufacturing in Jiangnan... were actually all avant-garde. Whether it was the "Tai Bo Fleeing to Wu" in the pre-Qin Dynasty, the southward crossing from Yongjia in the two Jin Dynasties, or the southward crossing from Jianyan in the two Song Dynasties, it was said that the south of the Yangtze River was developed by immigrants from the north. In fact, in the end, they all broke through the northern tradition and formed their own style.

The international dramatic art and ancient lanes and bridges give people a wonderful feeling of "collision". In 2014, the World Internet Conference permanently settled in Wuzhen, which seemed not so unexpected. Whether it is ancient town renovation, drama festivals, or Internet conferences, "Road to Wuzhen" carries the "pioneer spirit", which is the consistent spiritual core of Jiangnan. It's like when people see the high-rise buildings in Shanghai changing with each passing day, they don't feel that they are not "Shanghai", but instead feel that they are more "Shanghai".

Wuzhen is like a dream, which not only retains the "form" of the charm of the Jiangnan water town, but also regains the "meaning" of being a pioneer and cutting-edge. What you see here is not only the present of the water town, but also the future of Jiangnan.

- END -

Text丨Face

Picture editor丨Yuan Qianqian

Map editor丨Paprika

Cover Picture |

References

Fan Shuzhi "Jiangnan Towns: Transformation of Tradition"

Zhang Jianming "Historical Stories of Wuzhen"

Ruan Yisan " Wuzhen》