1934, Mr. Zhang Henshui went west to Tongguan. At this time, the Longhai Railway will be opened to traffic in Xi 'an. He took a special bus to stroll on the road from Tongguan to Xi 'an, enjoying the scenery along the way. How does this southern writer describe his experience in the northwest? Originally published in Travel Magazine, Volume 9, No.2 1935, Zhang Henshui's eyes are landscapes and historical sites, and his heart is a recollection of history. The master's brushwork is really extraordinary. The original text is as follows: 1. A glimpse of Weinan from Tongguan to Xi 'an must pass through Huayin, hua county, Weinan and Lintong counties. This section of the road was originally called East Avenue, and people in the northwest feel that the scenery is like Jiangnan. When this highway was built today, it was called Tongxi section. Long-distance bus from Xi 'an, 1935 When I went to Xi 'an, although Longhai Road soon reached Weinan, there were still many people going west by long-distance bus. The car is for official and business use. A ticket costs more than five yuan, and you can only take 50 kilograms of luggage. There are many passengers every time, and the congestion is beyond words. Fortunately, Longhai Road has now reached Xi 'an. People who read this travel book can sleep on the train sleeper, and when they go to Xi again, they can arrive in Xi safely. There is no need to describe their contribution to car life. I'm an engineer from Mongolia Economic Commission, Lu, who drove to pick me up. It is said that this car was left in Xi 'an by Mr. Song Ziwen, and its comfort is self-evident. During the Republic of China, Tongguan crossed the Weihe River in Huayin and walked around the city without entering the city. On this section, looking north, we can see the Weihe River in the distance, Huashan Mountain in the south, and jagged peaks dragging to the southwest. Accidentally encountering groups of poplars has also formed a dense forest. There are two counties here, which are listed as the second no-smoking area, so there were poppies growing at that time. In the sun, look at that white flower, a snow-white, purple or red flower, dazzling. It's like Jiangnan. If there is no harm, it is also very enjoyable. Outside Weinan village, the bus of the Republic of China took 140 miles to Weinan county, and the highway passed through the city. According to Shaanxi people, this is a big county town on East Street. Although the market is not as prosperous as Tongguan, the country people come and go in the street, which is very crowded. At the western end of the county seat, there is a bus stop, and there is a tea restaurant in the station, where guests from all over the world can enjoy themselves. Our hotel with a sharp tip is surrounded by loess walls, and the air is sultry, so it's boring to go in. The sludge on the blackboard table alone is a little thick. How can a newcomer in the west really be inferior? Fortunately, this is something that future generations need not experience, and it goes without saying. Second, people who bathe in Huaqing Pool go to Shaanxi. After crossing East Street, there are two places they have always wanted to go. One is Huashan and the other is Huaqing Pool. No matter what the catastrophe is, the five peaks of Huashan Mountain will always be high into space, and the hot springs in Huaqingchi will always keep the temperature up and down at 40 degrees and keep expanding. The road to Huaqingchi, Huaqingchi in the Republic of China is in the south of Lintong County, at the foot of Lishan Mountain, and Xitong Highway passes through the entrance of Huaqingchi Park. The bus doesn't stop, so most people who hire cars have to stop and take a bath. From here to a big station in Xi 'an, the train will pass in the future. People who come to Shaanxi can take a ride to Lintong to take a bath and spend a little money to come back by train. As it happens, it only takes half a day. The gate of Huaqing Pool in front of Lishan Mountain, 1937, can now outline the general situation of Huaqing Pool: in the south of a square, among the jagged trees, there are several pavilions, looking at the circular gate of the iron fence, which looks like a garden. A tall and round peak behind the tree is the foot of Mount Li. It's just that this mountain is not like Huashan, with wood and stones. It's a heaped-up mountain, and the grass is slightly sparse. The interior of Huaqing Pool, when the Republic of China entered this garden gate, was a zigzag pool with a stone bridge across it. There are three waterside pavilions in front of the pool, with glass windows, and willows hanging down behind the bank to shade. In the west corner of the waterside pavilion, there is a pavilion-style powder wall house, which turns in the cloister. According to legend, that's where Yang Guifei takes a bath. In the east corner of the waterside pavilion, there is another building that can turn around and walk up the hill. There is an old gentleman's shrine on the mountain, because I didn't see the mountain much. Huaqingchi, behind the waterside pavilion in the Republic of China, has a room, which is a bathroom. There are two kinds of bathrooms here. One is a special room. You can take a bath only if you buy a ticket. It costs one yuan per person. One is an ordinary room, which is free. Visitors can bathe freely in the water. As for the difference between ordinary and special, it is because of this special room that there is a lounge. There is tea on the kang, a scarf on the kang, and someone waits on it, which is similar to the bathing hall in the city. There is an open door in the lounge, and the bathroom is in the door. This pool is about three feet square and more than three feet deep. The bottom of the pool is paved with cement and surrounded by white porcelain brick walls. It is very clean. Spring water flows in from the south wall of the bottom of the pool, and there is an eye in the northwest corner, but it has been blocked when taking a bath. It turns out that the rule here is that a pool of water can wash up to five people. Five people must change the pool in the future, and that eye is used to change water. In Huaqingchi, the water temperature during the Republic of China was one or two degrees higher than the human body temperature. After washing in this water for about ten minutes, you must come out and have a rest, otherwise people will not stand the heat. There are three people taking a bath in the pool with me at the same time. After a while, they all stood up sweating. Later generations said that Yang Fei took a bath that day because "besides, because of her laziness, a maid was carrying her" and "a pear flower brought spring rain", which was unmistakable. Then we go to the ordinary room, behind which is the water flowing from this pool. The temperature and cleanliness are similar, and it is not good to spend money. That's the point. This pool is now under the management of Shaanxi Province. It is common and special for men and women to take a bath in separate pools. The fees charged are the same. In addition to repairing Huaqing Pool, there are also rural schools and orchards. People who bathe here are somewhat helpful to the construction cost. There is only one floor, in the military and political circle. In a special room, there seem to be many free baths. Third, the history of Huaqingchi is in the northwest. It is not easy to find a place in Tsinghua, Shui Mu, and it is a hot spring. Therefore, Huaqingchi has always been praised in history. It turns out that this place is called "Lishantang", which is the name used in Hanwu stories and Sanqin stories. A house was built by Qin Shihuang and also by Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty. Since then, there have been buildings in all generations. Emperor Wendi once planted thousands of pines and cypresses, and miscellaneous trees were used as houses, which was already very prosperous. In the hands of emperor Taizong, the hot spring palace was built first, and the scale was not large. In the hands of the romantic emperor Tang Huangming, it was changed to Huaqing Palace, which was divided into Eta Ursae Majoris Tower, Feishuang Hall and Royal Tang Jiulong Hall. Interior of Huaqing Pool, 192 1 This Kowloon Hall is also called Lotus Soup. An Lushan didn't rebel before. He carved a lot of lotus flowers in Fanyang, and all the ichthyosaurs and geese were put into the palace. Tang let them go into the water and looked alive and kicking. Daphne was piled up in the water as a rockery, and Tang made a silver-plated boat to play in the water. Yang Guifei's bath map, during the Republic of China, he let the imperial concubine bathe in the soup and secretly visited herself. This, together with the poems circulated by people, is even more famous. This spring was originally on Mount Li. According to legend, the gate of Qin Shihuang's Abang Palace is here. After taking a bath here, I look back at the prosperity of that year and feel that life is really just that. Four. Miscellaneous Notes on Lintong Places of Interest Besides Huaqing Pool, there are many famous places of interest. I found the following contents in five local chronicles. It turns out that I copied a list and prepared to read it myself. And I didn't go anywhere. Today, the list is attached to this article, or it is a meaningful plagiarism, so that people who travel in Lintong can follow the map. Qingshan is thirty-five miles south of the county seat. When Wu Zetian was there, the ground gushed out, 200 feet high. Wu's name is Qingshan. The former site of the Hongmen Banquet, 1936, is located in the east of the county seat. You can see it on the bus. This is the place where the king of Chu banqueted Liu Bang. Pit Confucianism Valley is located five miles southwest of the county seat, where the first emperor pit Confucianism. This stone is located in the east of Qin Shihuang's mausoleum. It is said that Qin Shihuang will put it on the mausoleum when he is buried. When he got here, he couldn't lift it anyway and had to give up. This stone is 18 feet high and surrounded by 18 steps, like a turtle. Probably a stone that was not used in those years, but it was carved into a turtle without forming. Lishan bonfire building, the calendar hall of the Republic of China, is 27 miles east of the county seat, where Zhou Youwang died, by the water. Wang Youchong praised her, raised a bonfire to make her laugh, and broke the promise of the prince. Later, Dog Rong made great contributions to King Youwang, but he didn't raise a fire to help him, and was killed by Dog Rong. The story happened here. Mount Li, in the Republic of China, was the mountain to the south of the hot spring. Qin Shihuang built an 80-mile pavilion road from ancient Xianyang to Mount Li. During the Zhou Dynasty, Li Rong lived here, hence the name. To the east is Li Rong's old city. On Mount Li, the old mother temple and Mount Li's old mother are also produced here. The mausoleum of the First Qin Emperor, which started at 1936, is fifteen miles east of the county seat. This is very luxurious in history. Xiang Yu used to dig with 300,000 people and then burned it in March. Huang Chao stole it once. Recently, the Archaeological Committee also wants to try. During the Republic of China, Zhou Youwang's Tomb and Zhou Youwang's Mausoleum were located 25 miles northeast of the county seat. Legend has it that there is only one mound left. On Wednesday, it was 100 step and 10 foot high. All the above are famous places of interest, besides Xinfeng Old Town, Shihuang Temple, Prince Fu's Tomb, Bian Que's Tomb, Yan Feng's Tomb, Three Princes' Mausoleum in Tang Dynasty, Fort Huang Chao and so on. These are fascinating in the chronicle, but most of them are elusive when they are inspected. If there is, it's just a pile of loess. Five, Baqiao Baqiao these two words, is full of poetry. The ancients said that poetry was on the back of Baqiao donkey. How can this BaQiao be missed? This bridge leads to Xi 'an for 20 miles. It is said that there are Han Bridge and Sui Bridge. Hanqiao is no longer available for examination. It is probably nearby, slightly south. Now this bridge was built in the second year of Emperor Kai of Sui Dynasty (6 19), and it has been 1345 years since the 24th year of the Republic of China (1935). Throughout the ages, the bridge has been under maintenance, but its original shape has not changed. Baqiao, 1907, is a plane that spans the banks of Bashui. According to visual estimation, it is about thirty feet long and one foot four or five feet wide, only four or five feet above the water. There are shallow fences on both sides, and the stone fences are horizontal. You can't lean down, but you can sit. Baqiao, 1936 There is a memorial arch at each end of the bridge, on which the word Baqiao is written. The riverbed under the bridge is mostly floating sand, which accumulates into a big beach. Unknown water bends in the middle of the beach and divides into several small streams. There is no doubt that the riverbed has risen a lot since the bridge was built. This bridge has never been so close to the water, has it? There are slightly Woods on both sides of the bridge, and willows account for half. At the turn of spring and summer, willows are flying, and the footbridge is full of flowers, which is very interesting. There is a small market at the eastern end of the bridge, with about 100 households. In the Tang Dynasty, officials left Beijing, which was regarded as the first stop, and all the people who saw me off were sent here. Therefore, in those days, walking on the long bridge, looking at the willow color and running water, the parting people experienced a surge of emotion. Baqiao also inherited the feelings of the ancients and was praised by later generations. Chan Bridge, 1907, there is a river called Chan Water, and there is a bridge above it called Chan Bridge. Baqiao is the same shape as Baqiao, but shorter. Because there is a Baqiao bridge in front, it is named drowned. 6. Market Sketch Xi 'an Station in the west section of Longhai Road in the Republic of China was laid outside Xi 'an North Gate on1February 18, 2003 (1934). At the same time, a material truck was opened, and it is planned to start selling tickets on1February 25. People who go to the northwest in the future, whether to Gansu or Xinjiang, can take the train all the way to Xi 'an, which will always increase a lot of convenience. Xi 'an used to be the name of the government, but now it should be retro, called Chang 'an, and it should be the Chang 'an county government, right in the city. This can also be said to be the rule of Chang' an county. I crossed the Second Bridge by car and looked at the endless plain, revealing a circle of shadows, that is Chang 'an City, which is not very beautiful in the south. Overlooking the East Gate Tower in Xi 'an, cars enter from the East Gate of 1936, and there is another newly-built sub-wall outside the East Gate. It is said that it was built after the siege in the 17th year of the Republic of China (1928), and it is also a painful commemoration for the local people. The tower here is very high, up to four stories, much like Xizhimen in Dongzhimen, Beiping, and it can be regarded as a big city. Dongjie, the street in the city of the Republic of China, is new, old and new. Gulou East Street is completely new, with a width of six or seven feet. It is a road-type dirt road with open ditches and trees. Shoppers on both sides have bungalows and buildings, hotels, restaurants, bathhouses, lantern shops (this is Xi 'an's specialty business) and long-distance bus stations, all in this area, which is probably the place for tourists. Gulou, 192 1 Gulou west street, that's old-fashioned. The street is not more than ten feet wide, and the car has just passed. Nine times out of ten, the shops on both sides are old-fashioned, probably the essence of the old times, and there are all kinds of shops. Besides, it is a new building. Why is it called a new building? It is said that when it was a warlord, it was supposed to build a new market in the east of the Drum Tower. Because the building is not strong and the location is relatively biased, the Nanyuanmen area was demolished in a few years, widening the street. The streets here are not as wide as East Street, but the daily necessities are here, and many pavements are in the oriental style. Except for these places, they are all secluded places. In the city of Xi 'an, the tourists who came to the west in the early years of the Republic of China were deeply impressed, that is, the street walls here were rarely plastered with lime. At first glance, khaki looks exactly the same from the ground to the roof. Especially when you walk into a cold alley and step on the floating soil like incense burner ash. When I saw it, there were pale yellow walls all around, and I couldn't tell. People who used to go to Suzhou always thought the streets were narrow, and people who went to Beijing always thought the houses were short, which meant the same thing. I have lived in Chang 'an for almost a month and a half. Although I am still very isolated from the life of the local people, I know very well how to be a passenger here. This kind of passenger life, the latecomers inevitably need to know, so I will write down all aspects that passengers will contact first. Looking at South Street from the bell tower, there are ten or twenty hotels in the Republic of China and Xi 'an, mainly including Northwest Hotel, Dahua Hotel, Xijing Hotel and Guanzhong Hotel. Northwest Hotel, the leading hotel, now has 60 or 70 rooms, including buildings, caves, bungalows and a big restaurant. The room is covered with bedding. Dahua Hotel, second only to Northwest Hotel, also has bedding. Passengers are advised to sit in two places without luggage There is no food in the room, at least fifty cents a day, and twenty-five cents more. If you stay for a long time, you can get a 20% discount. It is much cheaper to stay in a hotel with bedding, such as Guanzhong. A house of fifty or sixty cents a day is very suitable for living. Xijing Hotel and Minguo Hotel are located in East Street, which is easy to find. If you plan to stay for a long time, you can go to the YMCA in Taiping Lane behind the Northwest Hotel. YMCA in other places are not allowed to bring family members, but the YMCA in Xi 'an is not alone. Therefore, most orientals who work here and their wives live in the YMCA. The house price in Dongjie Republic of China is divided into north and south courtyards, about 1 1 yuan per month, at least in 78 yuan. Dishes can also be arranged, divided into twelve yuan and nine yuan. Recently, China Travel Agency bought land to build a guest house in North Street, and the facilities are completely predictable. But I hope it's better to be civilians, because most tourists to the northwest are bitter. The largest is Nanjing Hotel, which sells both Chinese and western foods on West Street. It is very expensive, and snacks cost three or four yuan. Secondly, they are all in East Street. Beiping restaurant is delicious, big or small, and also has western food. Stay in a hotel, order a dish and a soup with rice, about 70 cents. (2) Toilets and barbershops The old bathhouse here is difficult to enter. Not only is the water bad, but it smells bad. There is a new one called Yipin Xiang in East Street, with two porcelain pots, which are relatively clean. The room is forty-five cents per person Barber shop, Nanyuanmen two, Yandian Street one is the best, about 34 cents each. Teller, one of the six generals in Zhaoling, was photographed 1938 (3) People who come to Xi 'an with antiques, books and copybooks always buy some antique copybooks and send them back to the East. But if you are not an expert, you'd better not care about this antique. Because nine times out of ten the antiques displayed in the shop are made by our shop. Now that the train has passed, more people need antiques. They have to process and make, spend money and be laughed at by others. So why bother? But if there are objects, you must know the owner and visit their home. This antique shop is divided into Beiyuan Gate and Nanyuan Gate. Books are sold by Commercial Press, Zhonghua Bookstore and World Bookstore, and there are also shops selling used books nearby, all of which are in Nanyuanmen, and so are pen and ink. The copybook is outside the forest of steles, and there are four or five shops dedicated to expanding steles. (4) Foreign goods and banks' shops for imported goods are all in Nanyuanmen area, and daily necessities can probably be bought, but there is no first-class goods and the price is very expensive. Western medicine and photographic equipment should also be purchased at Nanyuanmen. Xi 'an Sub-branch of the Central Bank and Shaanxi Bank were the only branches in the Republic of China. It is said that there are several departments: the central government, transportation and farmers. The banking department is in Yandian Street in the west of the city. The central bank's Shanghai banknotes can generally be used, and so can the dime banknotes. The monetary system in the northwest is the most disordered, almost in the form of another currency. In Xi 'an City, in addition to the banknotes of the Central Bank, the banknotes and dimes of Shaanxi Bank and the copper coins and big copper coins of Father's Bank are used. (5) Photos of actors in Yi Sushe's entertainment. During the Republic of China, there were three or four classes in the theater here, orthodox and vulgar. Zhengsu Society is a real Shaanxi opera. Yi Sushe has made some progress. Pichun class happens occasionally, but it is not popular with local people and won't last long. In the cinema, there is a Epang Palace, at Nanyuanmen, showing silent films. The prostitute shop is in Kaiyuan Temple in Dongjie, and * * * has been transferred from Zhengzhou to Xiajiang people. The rules are unknown. To be continued …