Last year, the story of Yan Xi Palace caught fire, and the plot and the relationship between characters became the focus of discussion after dinner. One of the plots particularly interests me. Wei said that she liked the Soviet-made meat cooked by Chef Zhang very much, so the emperor sealed her to Chef Zhang. Speaking of chef Zhang, that's unusual. He is a good cook of Su cuisine. His meat is delicious and tender. He is very popular and has been praised by Qianlong for many times. From Master Qianlong to Father Li, everyone in the Forbidden City who has eaten his cooking is salivating. In particular, his specialty "Su Zao rou" is the most famous in history. Speaking of the life experience of Su jujube meat, it is very legendary. Forty-five years after Qianlong, Li Hong made another southern tour and stayed at Chen Yuanlong's home in An Lan Garden, Yangzhou. Who's Chen Yuanlong? At that time, he was a bachelor of imperial academy, a right assistant minister of does, and a provincial and ministerial official. When the emperor comes to live at home, he can't ignore it. He sent Zhang Dongguan, the tallest chef in the family, to cook for Gan Long himself. Su Cai was served on the table, and Lord Qianlong picked up chopsticks, gently picked them up and put them in his mouth to taste. Hey! Delicious, surprise, won the favor of the emperor! Su Cai, a good cook like squirrel fish, can't take advantage of others, you can handle it yourself! So, Lord Qianlong brought back the biggest harvest of this trip to the south of the Yangtze River, the cook Zhang Dongguan, to the palace, and asked him to be the chef and cook for the emperor. In the Biography of Yan Xi Palace, the emperor gave Zhang, the chef of Wei, this man! After Zhang Dongguan, played by Xu zhēng in the TV series Man Han Quan Banquet, entered the palace, Zhang Imperial Chef made a scene. How did he please the emperor? Struggle? No, stupid, stupid. Only good cooking is the foundation of settling down. He decided to conquer the emperor's stomach! After a period of observation, he found that Ganlong likes thick food, which is what we often call heavy taste. Chef Zhang is good at Su cuisine, and friends who have eaten Huaiyang cuisine know that Jiangnan cuisine is light in taste and emphasizes the original flavor. The emperor went to Yangzhou to eat Su cuisine, which was fresh and natural. But let the emperor who likes heavy tastes eat boiled dried silk and Yangchun noodles every day? This is no joke! Cooking for the emperor, you must enjoy both the north and the south, and the shade is appropriate. In order to find out these problems, we made a plan to shake "famous online dishes" in the university, which gradually took shape in chef Zhang's mind ... Second, there is a famous saying in the restaurant circle: a hundred dishes are not as good as cabbage, and meat is not as good as pork. The emperor was not surprised by delicious food and exotic animals. We might as well do the opposite, go back to basics and cook with seemingly ordinary pork. Chef Zhang chooses the best pork belly, with three layers of pork belly, which is fat and thin, which not only ensures the tenderness of the meat, but also does not lose the taste of the teeth. What should I do if I choose the raw materials for Su jujube meat? Is it fried or fried? Or stew it? Yuan Mei, a food writer of the same age as Chef Zhang, listed dozens of cooking methods of pork in Suiyuan Food List, calling pork a "master". In other words, pork can go with any dish, and you can do whatever you want! At this time, Zhang Dongguan remembered a teaching of his predecessor Su Dongpo: "Cleaning clank, lack of water, firewood can't afford to smoke." Don't rush him when he is ripe, he will be beautiful when the heat is enough. "If you don't repair the complex, use the simplest method: cook! Simple cook the meat, of course, can't do it, and can't reflect the chef's force. So, chef Zhang chose nine kinds of spices, such as clove, cinnamon, licorice, Amomum villosum, cinnamon, nutmeg and cinnamon, and put them in a pot to cook with pork belly. Cooked meat is fragrant, soft and delicious, and it is very attractive when it is accompanied by Beijing's unique fire roast, or when it is roasted with fire or soaked in rich broth. Such a popular food was placed in front of Gan Long Li Hong, which attracted the attention of the emperor. " "Zhang Dongguan is really bold! Take this thing and fool me! " ""Don't worry, your majesty. Master Zhang said, let your majesty try it first. You will like it. " The emperor bit the fire to eat meat, and then took a sip of hot soup, which was a practical and peaceful feeling. I usually eat too many exotic animals, so suddenly I have a palace version of meat buns, which is comfortable and exciting! It seems that the ancestors found the feeling of eating meat and drinking in a big bowl in the jungle of Daxinganling. In addition, Chinese food pays attention to "the homology of medicine and food", and the spices used in cooking this meat dish have a great role in strengthening the body and fitness. Once this dish was introduced, it won the favor of the emperor. Su jujube meat because the chef Zhang Dongguan was originally from Suzhou, over time, everyone called this dish "Su jujube meat". With this dish with the charm of Jiangnan, Chef Zhang captured the favor of the emperor overnight and became popular in the Forbidden City! Regarding this kind of Soviet-made meat, there is a sentence in Yan Dou Snack Miscellaneous Poems: "The Soviet-made meat is delicious enough for the old people, and the meat is embedded in the soup. Even if gluttonous people say that they are tired, a cup of ointment is full of clothes, "the note says," The butcher in Jiangsu uses long strips of fat, and the sauce is very bad, and its taste is extremely strong. The fire is cooked in the same pot. Buyers often bury meat in the fire to eat. " However, there are different opinions about Zhang Dongguan's life experience and the origin of meat production in Suzhou. Zhang Yikun, director of education of Xu Shichang Cabinet, was born in Suzhou, Jiangsu Province in the 11th year of Guangxu reign, and loved Suzhou meat since childhood. According to his memory, Zhang Dongguan's ancestors were born in the reign of Kangxi, and he studied cooking under the Anshi School in Rizhao County, Jiaodong. After returning to Suzhou, he got the essence of the medicated diet of "stewed chicken offal" and changed the chicken products into pig products, named "Suzhou produces meat". The Zhang family have been cooks for generations, and it is not bad to pass on their skills to Zhang Dongguan's generation. Later, after Zhang Dongguan was connected to the palace by Lord Qianlong, he changed his elbow to make Soviet-made meat, and took the essence of Taigong Wang's diet and named it "Soviet-made elbow", which became famous in one fell swoop. This story is recorded in "Eating in the Palace" written by Xie Ehao, the wife of Pu Jie Aisingiorro. Third, you may ask, why can't you eat a famous piece of meat from Suzhou in the restaurant today? In fact, this dish has not been lost, but has been circulated among the people. If you have been to Beijing, or if you are a native of Beijing, you will always eat this kind of Suzhou-made meat. Stew a pot of meat and soak it in fire. Does this way of eating look familiar to you? That's right! It's an online celebrity snack in old Beijing-stew. Suzhou's braised pork, cooked meat, roasted meat and cooked meat were introduced to people, and when it was cooked with fire baked with flour, it became a popular flavor snack. Vendors selling Soviet-made meat set up stalls outside Donghuamen in the morning to make breakfast for officials entering the Shengping Department. After the Republic of China, Jing Quan's restaurants in Shichahai and Dongan markets were the most famous for selling Soviet-made meat. So how did Soviet-made meat evolve into a pot-stewed fire? In the old society, the price of Soviet-made pork cooked with pork belly was too expensive for ordinary people to eat, so he replaced pork belly with cheap pig head and added cheaper pig to boil it in water. I didn't expect to hit it right, and I created a delicious food handed down from generation to generation out of control. It feels like things have changed for hundreds of years. At that time, Suzhou meat made by Wei's chef Zhang Yuzhu was elegant in name and won the heart of Master Qianlong, a "perfect martial art". Now the meat of Suzao is wandering among the people, which is more grounded. Add fat sausage, lung head and dried bean curd, change its name to braised pork, become an online celebrity, and capture the hearts of the people in Beijing! I'm Su Delong, focusing on diet writing. If you like my article, please like and follow me.