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The local food culture of Huili ancient city
Huili food culture has a long history and rich local characteristics. The special geographical location and long history and culture have created Huili's unique food culture. Huili also won the reputation of "Little Chengdu" because of its wide variety of snacks and famous dishes. Huili's real signature snack is mutton powder all over the streets. Huili mutton powder fully combines the spicy and delicious characteristics of Sichuan and the original and unrestrained style of local ethnic minorities in cooking methods and seasoning use.

Huili's mutton is very famous, and the rice noodles used are also very distinctive. It is thicker than ordinary rice noodles in Kunming, much thicker than common water-based fine powder in Chengdu and Xichang, and has a lot of heroism. Some people think it is a bit thick and not easy to taste, but mutton powder has to be scalded with this coarse powder to have a unique flavor. The meat is fat and thick, the soup is wide and full, white as jade, soft and firm. Less graceful and delicate petty bourgeoisie sentiment in the bustling city, more rugged persistence and enthusiasm in the ancient city of Shan Ye. There is a unique beauty of primitive wildness.

Mutton powder is the first choice for many people's breakfast, and the eating method is completely self-help. It is covered with colorful condiments, and the three spicy flavors of sea pepper, watercress and millet are roughly superimposed, and then ginger rice, chopped green onion and coriander are scattered all over the sea bowl, showing an unruly personality in a lawless way. Baikuai is a kind of convenient food which originated in Yunnan and is mainly rice. It is cheap and good, and it can be eaten in various ways. After being introduced from generation to generation, the bait Kuai Ming-ming has been continuously developed and perfected by combining the cooking styles of North and South for a long time, and its cooking method has greatly exceeded the simple limitation of monotonous baking in the country of origin.

The bait is delicious, soft and sweet, and all tastes can be blended. It can be eaten in many ways. The most famous way is the famous chicken firewire bait. Snow-white bait is cooked in a delicate copper hot pot, the cock and chicken are finely shredded by hand, and the best lean ham meat is also shredded, and a few vegetables are scalded, red and white, and a bowl of beautiful tips.

The shredded chicken bait is authentic, and the trick is all in this last spoonful of soup. Look at its color: white and red, taste its taste: strong but not greasy. It smells like ham, fresh chicken, thick bone marrow, and that deep, thick and indescribable taste. Copper hot pot is one of the three treasures of Huili. Since ancient times, Huili people have used copper pots and bronzes to cook. The dishes cooked in copper pots have a special flavor and are very delicious.

Huili folk customs like to make copper hot pot in winter and spring, and the eating method is similar to that of Sichuan cuisine. Mainly stewed with miscellaneous vegetables, characterized by delicious soup, soft rake, loud steam and rich nutrition. Copper chafing dish uses charcoal as fuel, ribs, lamb ribs, beef, beef offal, chicken and duck are stewed with soup, and seasoned with pepper, ginger and onion. When the soup is thick and rotten, vegetables are cooked in season, and diners sit around and share. The operation is simple, convenient and quick. The flavor dishes used are made of homemade watercress, Chili oil, chopped green onion, millet spicy and garlic paste, and the taste is very strong. You can also add fresh vegetables and scalds while eating, and the more stewed the soup, the fresher it is. The tools for making iron harrows are shaped like old charcoal iron. A small dark copper pot is placed on the surface of the continuous carbon furnace. The stall owner skillfully turns the iron pot in the pot with a small iron solder until both sides are slightly brown. This food must be eaten while it is hot. Sweet and sour fermented rice slurry combines the creamy taste of eggs. After biting, it is soft, fragrant and slightly burnt, which makes you warm all over, enough to resist the chill in the morning.

Thin bean powder and camellia oleifera are also traditional cuisines of Huili, and their light taste is especially suitable for the elderly and children. Thin bean powder is selected from local excellent peas, stir-fried slowly with slow fire, then finely ground into powder and filtered. Stir well when eating and boil with clear water. The production method of camellia oleifera is to break white rice into fine powder, put it in a pot, add water and stir it into a thin paste, then heat it and cook it slowly. When the rice paste is cooked and stuck to the spoon, it can be taken out of the pot and put into the bowl.

Cook camellia oleifera and thin bean powder slowly over low heat. Golden rice paste is packed in a porcelain bowl. Grab a crispy prickly heat, scoop a few spoonfuls of pepper oil, sesame oil and ginger juice, and present a large bowl of sharp ones. Stir gently with a spoon until it becomes soft and thick, and the tip of the tongue has a hint of pepper and hemp. In the West Street near the Bell and Drum Tower, it is a habitual curtain call for Huili people to entertain guests with midnight snack to chew the bone. Chengdu people pioneered the female hoof flower, and Huili people found another way and introduced the stewed bone. A large bowl of pork bones simmered on a small fire looks like thick soup, crisp and fluffy bones, steaming, crystal clear and moist. In the bone feeling like silver hook and iron painting, there is a creamy charm, with round beads and smooth teeth and red lips.

After thousands of years of continuous absorption, change, inheritance and innovation, Huili's food culture has gradually spread to the surrounding areas, affecting the taste and cooking skills of southern Sichuan and northern Yunnan. There are many kinds of home-cooked dishes, which are different according to the seasons and products, and also because of the family's economic situation, but the ways of making these foods are similar.

⑴ Rice soup is very popular in both urban and rural areas. Adding eggs, sauerkraut, minced meat and fresh vegetables (including wild vegetables) to rice is the best way to deal with leftover cold rice. Features: hot dishes and soup dishes.

2. Vegetable rice varieties mainly include:

(1) Braised rice with vegetables, cooked with white oil or glutinous rice, and cooked food with rice grains on the bottom, similar to vegetable rice in southeast provinces. It is characterized in that oil, fragrance, heat, grain and vegetables can be eaten together.

(2) Choose potatoes and mung beans for stew rice. White oil or raw bacon is refined, covered with water, and rice is stewed with slow fire. Be sure to add pepper powder and salt before cooking, and serve after stirring. It is characterized by oil, fragrance and strong taste.

(3) When the spring bowl of stewed rice with green beans and green beans is on the market, bean rice (including green beans with white shells and whole green beans) is selected, raw ham or bacon is put in a pot for cooking and flavoring, then noodles are covered on the half-cooked rice, a little water is added, and the rice is braised and roasted with slow fire. It is required to achieve the characteristics of non-sticky, shiny, fragrant and spicy granules.

(4) Sauerkraut bait will eat faster soon. In the early years of the Republic of China, it was mostly boiled with slag sugar (including market snacks), and salty bait was eaten quickly at home. Sauerkraut (pickled vegetables and pickled cabbage) slices are mostly cooked in a pot at the same time. This is as fast as the meat bait in Yunnan, and achieves the characteristics of clear soup and fresh taste.

(5) Mung bean rice paste is made by cooking Mung bean rice in spring, adding brown sugar water, soaking thoroughly, and mixing with glutinous rice flour: kneading flour into a tube shape; Slice evenly with a knife (each piece contains bean rice), and then fry it in a pot. You can also mix the tip of Toona sinensis with cooked mung bean rice, knead it into a tube (add pepper), slice it, fry it, and bake it (the same is true for green peas). The rake surface is required to be non-paste, golden yellow and soft.

(6) The tender stamens of Chinese cabbage blooming everywhere in spring are kneaded by hand, added with glutinous rice flour and sugar water, kneaded into cylindrical slices and baked. The product is characterized by its fragrant smell.

(7) Persimmon Flower Cake In autumn and winter, peeled persimmons (commonly known as persimmon flowers) are selected, kneaded into thin slices, and corn flour or glutinous rice flour are added to make a nest head (with a hat shape in the middle) for steaming cooked food or making cakes for baking. This product is characterized by taking persimmon juice without sugar, which can satisfy appetite.

(8) Tangyuan is a common food at home. Glutinous rice flour is used as raw material, and bean paste, peanut and sesame powder are mixed with lard or chicken oil and white sugar for stuffing. Then, knead the noodles, wrap the noodles, knead them evenly, boil them in water, and bleach the soup garden when it is cooked. Soup gardens can be divided into large and small shapes. In rural areas, big soup gardens are often made into big soup gardens, with only four in each bowl, while urban residents make small soup gardens (six in each bowl). D8)。 In addition, there are solid jiaozi without stuffing, which is cooked, rolled in a bowl filled with soybeans and eaten in a bowl filled with sugar (commonly known as "beating cattle"). Small dregs are called "small soup garden".

(9) The raw materials of Huanle Tuantuan are all the same. The only requirement is that the fabric should not be too thick and steamed.

(10) jiaozi is made by kneading rice flour and then steaming.

(1 1) Dry the rice cake with rice or glutinous rice flour, gradually mix it with water, stir and knead it evenly, sprinkle a little water in the retort until it is dry into fine particles, add brown sugar fine particles to the surface, add a layer of rice flour, and sprinkle the same water and sugar noodles (can be added to 4? The top layer of D5) is sprinkled with candied fruit particles and steamed with sugar. Cake requires hard and soft.

(12) noodle soup (noodles) can be eaten all year round, including sweet water and mixed vegetables. Sweet water surface should be cut into half pieces, with good seasoning (acid, hemp and spicy), good gluten and strong taste. Dish dressing varies greatly according to different materials. Usually just hanging out? d? Sample d is cooked with fresh lai, and a few exquisite ones are selected. When melons, beans and chickens are on the market in summer and autumn, add ham and fresh meat to make soup. The dough must be kneaded repeatedly, cut into strips, and put into the pot by Lamian Noodles. Noodles should be big, tender, not thick, fresh, sweet and delicious.

(13) Soak bean jelly in rice, grind it into slurry, put it in a pot and cook it into paste, add clear water and lime water, stir it evenly, and put it in a bowl. Edible sweet and salty. Sweet ones should be softened with syrup (commonly known as cold cakes), and salty ones should be thick without touching teeth.

(14) Fresh-packed grains of baoguba are ground and fermented into a clear paste, which can be baked with eggs. Spread and steam with tender corn leaves, and steam. It is characterized by the strong smell of corn, no teeth and no leaves. In addition, it is also useful to make cakes with buckwheat, sorghum and other raw materials in the same way.

(15) Soft Kangba (pot stall) is mixed with wheat flour, added with sugar (sweet taste), leek and onion (salty taste), smeared with a little oil on the pot surface, slowly placed around to form a pot ring, and baked on low fire. This is the most convenient food to solve the hunger at home.

(16) Potato Ciba First, the potatoes are cooked, peeled and pressed into paste, then kneaded into dough with flour or glutinous rice flour, then seasoned with pepper and salt, made into cakes, fried or baked, which require foam, magnetism and hemp flavor.

(17) porridge will also be cooked at home. There are many kinds of raw materials, such as rice porridge, glutinous rice porridge porridge, corn porridge and sweet potato porridge. Lily, Gleditsia sinensis, Tremella, Bird's Nest, etc. It has been added to glutinous rice porridge, and there are many varieties, so it should be thick and moderate, not raw rice grains. The "Laba porridge" that every household must cook in the twelfth lunar month is made of more than eight kinds of raw materials, such as rice, soybean milk, diced bacon, green vegetables, carrots and white radishes. Similar to the northwest provinces, it should be introduced from the north.

(18) Double Ninth Festival is a kind of cake steamed on the Double Ninth Festival in September. It is a cake made of fermented dough, with a sand-washed core, an oblate shape and a locked edge. Add syrup and soybeans to noodles, so it has a special taste.

(19) Boiling medicinal roots Every year at the Dragon Boat Festival in May, every household has the habit of boiling medicinal roots besides eating other things. The raw materials must be stewed soup such as bacon bones and fresh pig's trotters, which can be cooked together with a variety of local medicinal materials (burdock root, langen root, Adenophora root, etc.). ), has the effect of clearing away heat and toxic materials. People are hospitable and polite, and there are many banquets when making friends with each other. Annual temple fairs, industry festivals, weddings, funerals, birthdays, etc. Everyone holds banquets, so catering has become an important part of cultural life. In the Qing Dynasty, Huili could hold a Manchu-Chinese banquet. During the Republic of China, most of the food culture was still preserved, and full-time chefs were skilled in cutting, frying, steaming, frying, pickling (roast suckling pigs) and cooking. Different types of banquets have different forms and contents: The following only summarizes the changes of banquet contents from the configuration of dishes.

(1) Disk configuration will be compared with the original general disk configuration. First, it is mainly made of materials, but it varies with different properties. Common seating arrangements are: one is board rice: seven dishes and one soup (steamed, roasted and fried), and the other is a large group seat: the so-called "nine bowls" for wedding and funeral guests. Huili's dinner is very scientific, and the materials used are slightly different according to the season. The most important thing is the use of pork, not to waste. They are all used for catering. Secondly, the process of custody is single, and only two kinds of steaming and stewing are used (frying and frying are mostly used for breakfast). When the banquet is held, all the dishes will be served quickly. Here are the recipes:

Save bowl (big bowl) fake chicken glutinous rice (big bowl)

Crispy meat (big bowl) with shredded bamboo shoots (big bowl)

Sweet glutinous rice (small bowl) baozi stuffed with juicy pork

Steamed eggs (small bowl) and bacon (small bowl)

Stripped meat (all fat meat is washed with red rice noodles produced in Fujian)

(small bowl) note; A small bowl is a medium bowl.

The small bowl of dishes on the table has changed, such as ham, vegetables, moss (small bowl) and kelp (small bowl). Big bowl dishes will never change. At the wedding banquet, red egg slices are added to the first course and cabbage is added to the funeral banquet to show the difference.

To put a big banquet for everyone, when the chef uses meat, first put aside the breakfast dishes (liver and belly) and order the rest into bowls. Frying, stewing and steaming are all in order, even if they are finished. Because the tools are complete (copper stewing pot, steamer), it plays a role in one step, and it is in good order when opening the table.

Remarks; You can also make glutinous rice with real chicken, or add sea cucumber to the bowl, depending on the owner.

Three, five pressure table refers to the placement of fresh fruit and dried fruit.

Fourth, the name of the three-fold water banquet refers to the pattern of cold dishes.

Fifth, thirteen boards means using thirteen boards.

Sixth, ten big pieces, ten full dishes.

The main courses of these summer sleeping mats are divided into steaming, stewing, frying, stewing and other dishes, and can also be divided into soup, soup and pickles. Now try the following recipes:

Save silk with local specialty "Cao Shanzhen" Jue (dried) moss as the main material, with ham, fresh meat, shredded green bamboo shoots and so on. Steam in a cage, then turn over the bowl, add shredded eggs and pour the green soup.

Sea cucumber with pettitoes

Crispy fried rice and rice are used as the base of crispy sea cucumber, and then stewed sea cucumber with sauce.

Braised shark's fin in embroidered oil looks like embroidered oil in a dish.

Shredded chicken, leeks and squid should be fired. Squid should be dry and soft when wet, and chicken should be shredded with bacon to be fresh and tender.

Diced chicken is divided into diced chicken with pepper (fried with sea pepper), diced chicken (fried with crispy peanuts at the bottom) and diced rice chicken (chopped chicken into small pieces and then fried).

Stir-fried pork belly and waist with hot and crisp combination, and the knife method is strict (the belly should be hollow and the waist should be cut into flower shapes). This dish should be stir-fried with strong fire to make it crisp and soft.

Chicken pit is made by chopping chicken breast, frying it and adding diced ham. Spicy, fragrant and oily.

Gold and silver brain flowers are mixed with egg yolk juice and boiled in the brain flowers to become yellow and white.

Steamed chicken with powder

Mix rice flour with raw materials, add oil, and steam in a cage.

Steamed meat

Steamed white is a side dish (to eat)

Vegetarian stew belongs to soup dishes, and the contents can be drunk together with fish maw, dictyophora, Tricholoma and Lentinus edodes from the egg skin of a small meat garden. Pay attention to three vegetarian dishes, but the content is different.

Sweet soup is made by adding crystal sugar and jujube to various fruits, or adding tremella, bird's nest, honey locust rice and live indica rice. Pay attention to playing three sweet soups (different contents)

Bean paste is cooked with mung beans, pressed into paste, and burned with a lot of lard to meet the requirements of sweetness, oil and scalding.

Roasted meat (pork belly) is braised in brown sauce, first fried, then added with juice, then roasted in a casserole with slow fire, and then added with rock sugar, so that the juice concentration rises to filiform (commonly known as listing), and steamed buns and juice are eaten together.

Note: vegetarian stew is commonly known as salty and spicy.

Sweet soup is commonly known as sweet, eat it while it is hot.

Eggplant cake is made of fresh eggplant. Cut out the heart, fill it with minced meat, cut it into pieces and fry it in an oil pan.

Meat-heart bean sprouts are made of mung bean sprouts. Fill the minced meat with chopsticks first, and then fry it. This dish takes time and patience to finish.

The fried Toona cake in spring is made of Toona sinensis buds, leeks and minced meat, and fried with egg skin.

Fried liver rolls are made by wrapping liver slices with pure oil and peanuts and frying them.

Fresh stir-fried dishes are made according to different seasons, such as golden hook bean rice in spring, white oil (peas), roasted Toona sinensis eggs, fried bamboo shoots in autumn, fried chicken and so on. It is also useful to fry dried magnolia slices (bamboo shoots) with ham.

There are so many recipes that it is impossible to list them one by one. The firing method varies with materials and varieties. For example, roast suckling pigs slowly with tools, and the meat should be cooked, tender, yellow and crisp. There is also a difference between cooking fresh fish and seasoning. For example, crispy fish should be fried before burning, fish pieces should also be fried and the skin should be fried thoroughly. Fresh fish with sauerkraut will be delicious. In addition, there will be cold food, which is boiled into thick fat with pig's trotters and pigskins, and then placed on a plate and cooled in a pea, which is called "freezing". Some dishes are fried with fresh fish and then oiled and cooled into "fish jelly". Also, the "whole sheep mat" is made of black goats. This refers to all kinds of mutton dishes, not the whole sheep seats operated by the Qing court. To operate a whole sheep sleeping mat, you must choose fat sheep to castrate, remove hair and skin after slaughter, and make them by steaming, stewing, frying and frying. Among them, "eight sheep" is a piece of meat cut with skin and steamed, which is similar to an elbow made of pork and needs grease. Eating a whole sheep mat is often fat, indicating that sheep are fatter. There are also many changes in the preparation of soup dishes. Hot pot is used in autumn and winter. You can cook raw chicken pieces and tofu pudding. You can cut raw meat slices, sashimi and raw belly (commonly known as live); There is also a kind of shredded chrysanthemum called "Chrysanthemum Hotpot". Also, many Buddhists use vegetables and tofu as raw materials instead of meat and spices? Make a mat with the same name as the meat dish.

You must explain the names mentioned above to understand their meanings:

Five tables means placing five plates of fruit before the main course is served. Generally, there are rock candy, dragon legs, honey money, fruits and so on.

Triple water refers to the cold dish pattern. If ham is used as the material, it is cut into pieces of equal length, arranged in two rows according to the distance of the knife edge, and covered with another row in the middle, it will overlap: the rows are like waterfalls. Fruits (sugar cane, sweet potato, etc. ) is also made in the same way.

Thirteen dishes are the most exquisite noodles, which means there are thirteen dishes (boiled in water, stir-fried and so on). ) on the mat, in the middle and behind.

The top ten dishes were imported from Jiangnan cuisine in the 1930s, and all of them used all kinds of dishes, such as whole chicken and whole duck, to show the richness of dishes.

Another important content of the banquet is "dim sum". Generally snacks are delivered before meals, while luxury snacks are delivered during and after meals. What is the content of snacks? D4 snacks (steamed bread, steamed cake, fried cake, Toona roll, burning eyebrows, etc. (Chefs in Huili often burn their eyebrows with vegetable juice, which turns green after steaming), and some also send original soup to copy their hands, crystal jiaozi (sesame) and so on.

Banquet pays the most attention to etiquette, which is reflected in the variety and must conform to its content. Peach (steamed noodles) or noodles should be added to the birthday party. Full moon banquet with red eggs or something. Tableware should be placed neatly on the mat surface. It should be made of mat paper (the inner layer is clay paper, and the outer layer is paper with different meanings printed on glossy paper. It should be placed under chopsticks, and the wine should be in different directions, so as not to affect the guests' dining. There is also paper on the table, which is used to hold snacks, sweets and so on. For guests, it is commonly known as "leftover bag". There are also different forms of "leftover buns" when banquets and dinners are held in provincial halls. For example, according to northern customs, buns (commonly known as big buns and big bowls) are taken back as "leftover buns" and so on.

The banquet hosted by Huili is polite and orderly, which fully embodies the high connotation of food culture (oriental civilization), as well as scientific (reasonable collocation of dishes) and artistic (diverse dishes).