Legend has it that a man named Hua somehow found a chicken, but he couldn't cook it. So he killed the chicken, wrapped it in rotten mud and barbecued it in firewood. Finally, the dried chicken is cooked. When the mud shell is opened, the chicken feathers are peeled off. As time goes by, the aroma is fragrant. The beggar had a good meal. Later, this practice was learned by people in restaurants and improved. The reputation of "beggar chicken" is growing. This story is very interesting. More interestingly, however, such stories are circulating in Jiangsu, Zhejiang, Sichuan and other places in China, but the content is slightly different. In this way, the problem is coming. Where is the hometown of beggar chicken? According to relevant sources, a few years ago, when compiling China Cookbook, the editors in Jiangsu and Zhejiang had a friendly argument: one said that "beggar chicken" originated in Changshu, Jiangsu, and the other said that it originated in Hangzhou, Zhejiang. Both sides put forward many reasons and had an interesting argument. Fortunately, the comrades in Sichuan had not "joined the war" at that time, otherwise it would be more lively for the three families to fight for "chicken". This kind of argument is very necessary from the perspective of studying the history of famous dishes, and it can also be called "academic contention" in the culinary world. If we can get to the bottom of it, it is also a good thing. But from this incident, I thought of another problem: that is, the legend of "beggar chicken" happened in many places, doesn't it reflect the creativity of the working people in China? As Mao Dun, a master of literature, said before his death: "The cooking method of beggar chicken is very unique. It comes from People's News. Like other cultures and arts, it was created by working people of all ages. " (China Cuisine 198 1.3: Mao Gonghe.