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The food culture of steamed buns and rolls

The widely circulated steamed bun has gradually developed into a specialty pasta in Henan, northern Jiangsu and northern Anhui. It looks like pancakes and has different textures, materials and preparation methods. It is widely loved because it is simple to make, easy to eat and easy to preserve. Welcome is part of the daily diet of local residents. There is a children's song circulating in the Central Plains, "The round cakes are long in diameter, the buns are yellow and crispy, the outside is soft and the inside is crispy, and the buns are rolled up. They are given to the anti-golden heroes to taste." During the Shunzhi period of the Qing Dynasty, when Fang Wen came to the Central Plains as a guest, he wrote about the steamed buns in the Central Plains in his "Travel to the North Road": "White flour is mixed with water and baked into steamed buns, and yellow millet and mixed beans are cooked into porridge. In the north, at least japonica rice is used, and people in the south have to follow it. Customs." It can be seen from this that the folk pastry food such as steamed buns not only has a long history, but also has a long-standing reputation.

Historical records support the anti-golden army. According to Xuzhou cultural and historical records: During the Northern Song Dynasty, when Zhao Li, the anti-golden hero of Xuzhou, gathered the masses to fight against the Jin Dynasty, the local people specially made steamed buns and rolled them into fragrant and crunchy steamed buns. Give it to the anti-gold hero. Therefore, the variety of steamed buns has been passed down to this day and has not declined through the ages. Once upon a time, there was such a folk song circulating in Xuzhou: "The round cakes are long in diameter, and the buns are yellow, crispy and fragrant. The cakes are soft on the outside and crispy on the inside. They are given to the anti-golden heroes. Legend 1: The army and the people are close to each other. Supporting Liu Bang won the hearts of the people. During the conflict between Chu and Han, Liu Bang led his troops to fight against Xiang Yu. Because Liu Bang's army has always been popular with people for its strict discipline and was supported by the local people, the soldiers were too busy fighting and rarely had enough to eat. In order to provide Liu Bang's army with a full meal, the people of Xuzhou used their wits and combined with the local crop conditions to invent a kind of pastry that was simple, fast and easy to carry. From then on, Liu Bang won the support of the people. The morale of the army increased greatly, which provided them with a favorable basis for fighting.

Legend 2: People in the south of Xuzhou love to eat rice, but people in Shandong in the north love to eat pancakes. Why do people in this area of ????200 miles like to eat steamed buns? When Xiang Yu was defeated in Gaixia (Lingbi, Suzhou City), Liu Bang sent Han Xin to command 300,000 troops to pursue the victory. At this time, Xiang Yu only had 800 cavalry left, and they fought fiercely all night. The officers and soldiers had not had a meal for several days. Han Xin saw that Xiang Yu's defeat was a foregone conclusion, but Xiang Yu had a reputation among the people for not disturbing the people. Han Xin took advantage of Xiang Yu's failure to ruin his reputation. As a plan, he asked a clever woman to make cakes. At that time, the cakes were large and thick and could not be cooked thoroughly. Xiang Yu's officers and soldiers were about to pass by. How could Han Xin have time to make such a thick cake? He said to the clever woman: "Quickly rub the noodles, make them thin and cooked, the sooner the better. "The clever woman was so anxious that she rolled out the dough with a round stick until it was very thin. She put it on an iron spatula and turned it upright, and the dough was cooked. Han Xin was very excited when he saw it. This way, he could cook more and cook more. After it was ripe, he made two big baskets in a while, so he ordered an old man to sell them on the road Xiang Yu must pass, and said: "If you don't see Xiang Yu, I will kill your head when you come back." "The old man had no choice but to go to the designated place and wait. At first, several cavalrymen came and asked the old man: "When the war is in chaos and everyone is fleeing, you old man is not afraid of death, so what are you selling? The old man said: "What I sell is delicious food." When the soldier heard that the food was delicious, he wanted to eat it, but he had no money and was anxious, so he said to the old man: "Our King Xiang's soldiers and horses never eat the people's food, except for those who are in charge of military supplies. Even King Xiang didn’t bring any money. "As he spoke, these cavalrymen urged their horses and whipped away. Then another group of cavalry arrived, led by a sturdy man riding a black horse. The old man thought this must be Xiang Yu, so he quickly stopped and said, "Your Majesty! I see that your army has no money and refuses to eat my food, which shows that the king manages the army well; but it is really hard for you to fight for so many days in a row. Even if I don’t have any money, I still treat you to my food to fill your stomach so that we can fight again. I never want money. Xiang Yu said: "I am penniless now. Although I am hungry, I will never eat the people's food in vain." "The old man was very moved. He felt that people said that Xiang Yu was upright and honest in leading troops. It was true. So he honestly said what was in his heart to Xiang Yu: "Your Majesty! I was sent by Han Xin. When I came here, Han Xin said to me: "If Xiang Yu eats your food and has no money to give you, future generations will say he is unjust; if he kills you, an old man, future generations will say he is unkind." ’ If you don’t eat my food and don’t kill me now, when I go back, Han Xin will say that I didn’t see the king and he will definitely kill me. What to do? I beg the king to save my life.

Xiang Yu said: "In this case, I am still in a hurry, so let's do it this way!" Xiang Yu then pulled out four sections of his thirteen-section overlord whip, handed it to the old man and said, "When you see Han Xin, take my four-section whip and he will know that you have seen me." Because Han Xin helped me hold the halberd and hold the whip in the past. "After that, Xiang Yu galloped south with the team. The old man watched Xiang Yu's figure gradually disappear with tears in his eyes. The old man heard that Han Xin had already chased Xiang Yu, and did not go to see Han Xin again. He returned home, I asked the old man what the paper-thin round cake was called and how to make it. . From then on, this homophonic name was called "roasted buns". People rushed to learn how to make buns, and it has become a specialty of Xuzhou. To this day, little girls in Xuzhou can make and eat buns. Steamed buns have become a hobby of Xuzhou people. Legend 3: Qianlong went out incognito to watch steamed buns flying. According to legend, Qianlong passed by Xuzhou when he was going to Jiangnan, and during his private visit in private, he saw a wonderful performance by rural women in Xuzhou making steamed buns. A dough cake as thin as a cicada's wing and as big as a silver plate was quickly rolled out on the table. He picked it up on a spindle and waved it with his hand. The dough cake flew onto the hot griddle in the east room, and then another one flew to the west. On the hot pan in the room... Qianlong saw that she was indeed a master of steamed buns. This woman could roll out two plates of steamed buns by herself. No wonder Emperor Qianlong was dumbfounded when he saw it. , Folks are strange people." This is indeed the case in the Xuzhou area. There is a play that goes like this: "From Beijing to Nanjing, there is Xuzhou City in the middle. People in the Central Plains love to eat "roasted steamed buns", and if you bite them hard, your teeth won't hurt. "This means that the steamed bun is indeed unique to Xuzhou. It tastes pliable and strong. When outsiders look at the chewing action, they really feel a little "excited to see the steamed bun"! As the name suggests, the steamed bun is baked on a griddle. Most of them are made of cast iron, but today they are also made of wrought iron and aluminum alloy. The usage is roughly the same. The spatula is not big, about one foot and two inches in diameter. The diameter of the steamed bun is about one foot. There are two technical steps to make the buns: one is "rolling", and the other is "turning". The "rolling" process is to make the buns thin, even and round. Mix the water so that it is moderately soft and hard. It is best to let the dough "wake up" for more than half an hour. If the dough is too hard, it will be more difficult to roll out; if it is too soft, it will deform after rolling, so the dough is rolled first. One step. Divide the mixed and "awakened" dough into individual buns, and then roll them out with a special rolling pin. A good hand can roll out sixteen buns per kilogram, and they should be large, round, even and thin. In the old days, people in the Central Plains made steamed buns at home. Usually the wife would roll the buns and the husband would turn them. Sometimes sisters-in-law and aunts worked together to make the steamed buns. The smell of steamed buns wafted out amidst the chatter and laughter, a bit like making dumplings together during festivals. But today they are all handicraft workshops and street stalls in the community, and they are not available in newly built communities. I can only look for places that have steamed buns. Ah, the unique texture of Zhongyuan steamed buns, and the exquisite production are really memorable. Infinite.