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Modern books on the history of China's wine making.
Mr. Guo Qichang's book Fifty Years of China Wine

8 VCDs of Chinese Wine Culture

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Contents: Special price CD: Chinese wine culture, ***8 VCDs, published by Peking University Audio-visual Publishing House. Welcome! Directory browsing: 1. Chinese wine history 1. China wine history 2. Wine business history 3. Wine and poetry 5. Wine and music 2. Wine and art 1. Wine and drama.

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History of China Liquor

China's wine has a long history of over 5,000 years. In the long process of development, it has formed a unique style. This is characterized by multiple fermentation and semi-solid fermentation, in which koji with growing mold as the main microorganism is used as saccharifying starter. This has become a typical representative of the oriental wine industry. China's wine is mainly made from grain raw materials. And a small amount of fruit wine; Since modern times, beer has developed rapidly in China, and its annual output now ranks second in the world. According to the latest Chinese people's * * and national standards, beverage wines in China can be divided into three categories: Fermented alcoholic beverages, Distilled spirits and integrated alcoholic beverages. Fermented wine is subdivided into Beer, wine, Fruit wine, Chinese rice wine and other fermented Wines. Distilled liquor is subdivided into Chinese Spirits and other distilled liquors (such as brandy, whisky, Odek, rum).

In the view of China people, wine is not a necessity, but in social life, wine has irreplaceable functions. From the back of wine, we can know all aspects of China society, and China's politics, economy, agricultural production, commerce, history and culture can all find valuable information in wine culture.

As a special cultural form, wine culture has its unique position in traditional China culture. In the history of civilization for thousands of years, wine has penetrated into almost every field of social life. First of all, China is a country based on agriculture, so all political and economic activities are based on agricultural development. Most of the wines in China are brewed from grain, and wine is closely attached to agriculture and becomes a part of agricultural economy. The prosperity of grain production is a barometer of the rise and fall of wine industry. According to the grain harvest, the rulers of various dynasties regulated the production of wine by issuing or opening the ban, thus ensuring the people's food. Conversely, the rise and fall of wine industry also reflects the situation of agricultural production, and it is also one of the clues to understand natural and man-made disasters in history. In some local areas, the prosperity of wine industry has played a positive role in improving the living standards of local society. Alcohol is closely related to social and economic activities. Since the implementation of the national monopoly policy on wine in the period of Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty, the monopoly fee or special tax on wine collected from the brewing industry has become one of the main sources of national fiscal revenue. Wine tax revenue is also related to military expenditure and war in history, which is directly related to the life and death of the country. In some dynasties, wine tax (or monopoly revenue of wine) was also related to corvee and other tax forms. The rich profits of wine often become the fat meat that the country, merchants, rich people compete for. The alternation of different wine administrations reflects the comparative changes of the strength of all walks of life. The release of the wine decree is often related to the change of dynasties, the change of emperors, and some major royal activities. As a special commodity, wine has added rich colors to people's lives. The ancients in China classified the functions of wine into three categories: wine for curing diseases, wine for providing for the aged, and wine for becoming a gift. For thousands of years, the function of wine is not limited to these three things, at least it also includes: wine can make you happy, wine can forget your worries, wine can make you brave, and wine can also make you indulge, fall and hurt your health. In history, many monarchs indulged in wine, which led to the disaster of national subjugation.

In a word, wine is a symbol of social civilization. To study the history of social civilization, we must study the history of wine culture. The rich connotation of Chinese wine culture will bring fun and enlightenment to people.

In our country, the wine brewed from grain has always been in an advantageous position, while the share of fruit wine is very small. Therefore, the origin of wine-making is mainly to explore the origin of grain wine-making.

A legend of the origin of wine making

In ancient times, the origin of wine-making was often attributed to the invention of someone, and these people were described as the ancestors of wine-making, which became an orthodox view because of their great influence. For these views, the Song Dynasty's Wine Spectrum once questioned that "all of them are not enough for textual research, but they are redundant". Although this is not enough for textual research, as a cultural identity phenomenon, it may be listed below. There are mainly the following legends.

1 Yidi Brewing

According to legend, Yidi invented wine-making in Xia and Yu Dynasties. The second century BC history book "Lv's Spring and Autumn Annals" says: "Yi Di makes wine". The Warring States Policy, edited by Liu Xiang in the Han Dynasty, further explains: "In the past, the emperor's daughter made Yidi make wine beautiful, and when she entered Yu, Yu drank it and was willing to drink it. The day:' There will be people who drank and became a country in the future.' Therefore, I will spare my manners and abandon my wine. "(Yu Naixia emperor)

2 Du Kang Brewing

Another legend holds that wine-making began in Du Kang (also a Xia Dynasty man). Explained in Shuo Wen Jie Zi in the Eastern Han Dynasty: "Among the entries of the word wine, Du Kang made wine." "Shiben" also has the same statement.

Wine-making began in the period of Huangdi.

Another legend shows that people began to make wine in the era of the Yellow Emperor. The Yellow Emperor's Internal Classic Su Wen, a book written in the Han Dynasty, recorded the scene of the Yellow Emperor discussing brewing with Qibo. The Yellow Emperor's Internal Classic also mentioned an ancient wine-fermented cheese, that is, sweet wine made from animal milk. The Yellow Emperor is the same ancestor of the Chinese nation, and many inventions and creations appeared in the period of the Yellow Emperor. The book Huangdi Neijing is actually the work of Huangdi by later generations, and its credibility remains to be verified.

4 wine and heaven and earth at the same time

A more mythical statement is that "there is a wine star in the sky, and the wine is also made, which is in harmony with heaven and earth."

Although these legends are different, they generally show that wine-making existed as early as or before the Xia Dynasty, which is credible, and this has been confirmed by archaeologists. The Xia dynasty was about four years ago, and at present, wine-making utensils dating back to five years have been unearthed. Xinmin Evening News1August 23, 987: The oldest writing in China was found in Juxian County, Shandong Province, with the subtitle: Wine-making utensils discovered five years ago at the same time. This discovery shows that wine-making in China started at least five years ago, and the origin of wine-making was of course before this. In ancient times, people may first come into contact with some naturally fermented wines and then imitate them. This process may take a long time.

Second, archaeological data to prove the origin of brewing

The two prerequisites for grain brewing are brewing materials and brewing containers. The following typical Neolithic cultural periods have certain reference function to the origin of wine-making.

(1) Pei Ligang cultural period (5000-6000 BC)

(2) Hemudu Cultural Period (4000-500 BC)

In the above two cultural periods, there are pottery and crop remains, and both have the material conditions for wine making.

(3) magnetic mountain culture period.

Magnetic mountain culture had a developed agricultural economy from 7355 to 7235. According to the statistics of relevant experts, the grain accumulation found in the site is 100 square meters, equivalent to 50 thousand kilograms. Some pottery similar in shape to later wine vessels were also found. Some people think that during the period of magnetic mountain culture, there was a great possibility of making wine from grains.

(4) Sanxingdui Site

The site is located in Guanghan, Sichuan Province, and the buried objects are relics between 4800 BC and 2870 BC. A large number of pottery and bronze wine vessels have been unearthed in this site, and their shapes include cups, jars, pots and so on. Its large shape is also rare for prehistoric cultural relics.

(5) Dawenkou Cultural Tomb of Lingyin River in Juxian County, Shandong Province

1979, archaeologists excavated a large number of wine vessels in Dawenkou cultural tomb of Lingyin River in Juxian County, Shandong Province. It is particularly noticeable that there is a combined wine container, including a large pottery statue used for brewing and fermentation, a leaky jar used for filtering wine, a pottery urn used for storing wine, and a cooker pottery tripod used for cooking materials. There are also various types of drinking utensils.

/kloc-more than 0/00 pieces. According to the analysis of archaeologists, the tomb owner may have been a professional brewer before his death (Wang Shuming: Brewing in the Late Dawenkou Culture, Cooking in China, 1987.9). There is also a picture engraved on the excavated pottery cylinder wall, which is analyzed to be a wine filtering picture.

During the Longshan culture, there were more wine vessels. Domestic scholars generally believe that wine-making in Longshan culture period is a relatively developed industry.

The above archaeological data have confirmed that the brewing industry did exist in the period of the Yellow Emperor and Xia Yu in the ancient legend.

Three modern scholars' views on the origin of brewing

1 wine is a natural product.

Recently, scientists have discovered that there are some celestial bodies in the long universe, which are made up of alcohol. The contained alcohol, if made into beer, can be drunk by human beings for hundreds of millions of years. What does this mean? It can just be used to show that wine is a natural product of nature. Man didn't invent wine, he just discovered it. The main ingredient in wine is alcohol, and many substances can be converted into alcohol in many ways. For example, glucose can be converted into alcohol under the action of enzymes secreted by microorganisms; As long as certain conditions are met, certain substances can be converted into alcohol. Nature is fully equipped with the foundation for these conditions.

Jiang Tong of the Jin Dynasty in our country wrote in "Wine Patent": "The prosperity of wine originated from the emperor, or cloud Yi Di, and cloud Du Kang. There is an endless supply of food, and the rest is empty, and it is stagnant and fragrant for a long time. This is the reason, and it is not strange. " Here, the ancients put forward the view that leftovers naturally ferment into wine, which is in line with scientific truth and actual situation. Jiang Tong was the first person to put forward the theory of grain natural fermentation in Chinese history. In a word, people began to brew cereal wine, not by invention, but by discovery. Mr. Fang Xinfang described this in detail: "Before and after the emergence of agriculture, the methods of storing grain were extensive. Natural grains will be moldy and germinated after being wet, and the leftover cooked grains will also be moldy. These moldy and germinated grains are natural tillers in ancient times. When they are immersed in water, they will be fermented into wine, that is, natural wine. People have been in constant contact with natural tillers and natural wine, and gradually accepted the drink of natural wine, so they invented artificial tillers and artificial wine. Over time, they invented artificial tillers and artificial wine. " Modern science explains this problem as follows: under the action of enzymes secreted by microorganisms existing in nature, the starch in leftovers is gradually decomposed into sugar and alcohol, which naturally turns into wine with rich aroma. In people's food in ancient times, the wild fruit collected has high sugar content, and it is easy to ferment into wine without liquefaction and saccharification.

2 Fruit wine and milk wine-the first generation of beverage wine

Man's conscious winemaking began with imitating the masterpieces of nature. There are many records about the natural fermentation of fruits into wine in ancient Chinese books. For example, in the Song Dynasty, Zhou Mi recorded that Yamanashi was stored in a pottery jar and turned into a fragrant pear wine. Yuan Haowen of the Yuan Dynasty also recorded in the preface of Pu Tao Jiu Fu that the Pu Tao piled up in the jar became fragrant and mellow wine because a mountain dweller took refuge in the mountain. There is also a record of so-called "ape wine" in ancient historical books. Of course, this kind of ape wine is not consciously brewed by apes, but fruit wine produced by natural fermentation of fruits collected by apes.

As far back as the Paleolithic, people lived by gathering and hunting, and fruit was naturally one of the staple foods. Fruit contains more sugar (such as glucose and fructose) and other ingredients. Under the action of microorganisms in nature, it is easy to naturally ferment into fragrant and delicious fruit wine. In addition, the milk of animals contains protein and lactose, which is easy to ferment into wine. The ancestors who lived by hunting may also accidentally get milk wine from the retained milk. In Huangdi Neijing, there is a kind of "fermented cheese", which is the earliest record of milk wine in China. According to ancient legends and the principle of brewing, the most primitive wine varieties consciously brewed by human beings should be fruit wine and milk wine. Because fruit and animal milk are easily fermented into wine, the required brewing technology is relatively simple.

3. Does grain wine-making begin in farming time or precede farming time?

To explore the origin of grain brewing, there are two questions worth considering: when did grain brewing originate? What kind of cereal wine is the oldest in China? For the latter question, it is introduced in the beer part of Chapter 5.

There are two diametrically opposed views on when grain brewing began.

The traditional view of the origin of wine-making is that wine-making was developed after farming. This view was put forward as early as the Han Dynasty. Liu An in the Han Dynasty said in Huai Nan Zi: "The beauty of Qing Ang began in Leiji." Many modern scholars hold the same view, and some even think that wine-making began only when agriculture developed to a certain extent and surplus grain was available.

Another point of view is that grain brewing preceded the farming era. For example, in 1937, an archaeologist in China, Mr. Wu Qichang, put forward a very interesting point: "Our ancestors first planted rice seeds for brewing rather than cooking ... Eating was really brought out from drinking." This view is popular abroad, but there has been no evidence. Half a century later, Dr. Solomon Katz, an anthropologist at the University of Pennsylvania in the United States, published a paper and put forward a similar view. He believed that the purpose of people's initial planting of grain was to brew beer. People first discovered that the collected grain could be brewed into wine, and then began to consciously plant grain to ensure the supply of raw materials for brewing. The basis of this view is: in ancient times, the staple food of human beings was meat, not grain, that is, the staple food on which human beings lived was not grain, so the explanation of human grain cultivation may also be another way. It was found abroad that people in ancient times had started brewing cereal wine more than 10,000 years ago, and at that time, people still lived a nomadic life.

To sum up, there are two main views on the origin of grain wine-making, that is, before the farming era and after the farming era. It is of great significance for the origin and development of wine and the development of human society to put forward new viewpoints and re-explore traditional viewpoints.