What makes you think that? Because whether I used to study outside or write now, people will ask me about various Chaoshan foods or restaurants in Guangdong. But sometimes I think that in the eyes of many people, Chaozhou cuisine is Chaoshan beef hot pot, beef tendon pills, seafood, cold salad and their delicious snacks.
As we all know, this does not mean the whole picture of Chaozhou cuisine, and Chaozhou cuisine is far more than that. Then how do you introduce Chaozhou cuisine to others in detail? It would be great if there is a targeted article, but I haven't found a satisfactory article on the Internet for a long time, which is enough for me to immediately transfer it to others to master Chaozhou cuisine. In other words, I am also a po owner who writes delicious food in a semi-amateur group. Why not do it yourself?
However, after publishing articles for so many years, although I had some design ideas, I didn't write from beginning to end. The key is that the discussion about Chaozhou cuisine is too grand to write casually. Today is also a voluntary recommendation. Let's talk about some of my own humble opinions. Please include any omissions.
Naturally, many people still read this article with the mentality of eating and drinking in a holiday, so this article will also introduce some restaurants in Chaoshan, Guangdong Province that are well received by users and some dishes worth trying. However, because the focus of my daily life is Shantou, the focus of my detailed introduction is Shantou restaurant, and it has been outside for some years. If the restaurant detailed has changed, or there is a stronger upgraded restaurant, please also emphasize that you are still in the local area.
I believe that after reading this article, I dare not say that I can grasp the panoramic view of Chaozhou cuisine, but at least you can go to Chaozhou restaurants in Chaoshan, Guangdong, or all over the country, and it is no problem to learn to order.
The whole article is divided into four chapters. If you are not interested in the origin and characteristics of Chaozhou cuisine for the time being, just for a better holiday travel food guide, then please start reading from the fourth chapter, which can save about half the reading speed.
=? Previous life of Chaozhou cuisine? =
In the past, I used the word Chaozhou cuisine in my articles, and many Chaoshan people jumped up and said why only Chaozhou cuisine was mentioned. It turns out that Shantou City has Jieyang City, and Chaozhou cuisine should be introduced in detail!
In fact, this Chaozhou city is not another Chaozhou city.
Chaozhou is the name of Chaoshan in Guangdong in the past, and its jurisdiction is called Bayi in Chaozhou, including Haiyang, Chaoyang, Jieyang, Shantou Chenghai, Raoping, Puning, Huilai and Fengshun. Except Fengshun, which belongs to Meizhou now, other areas are basically the same size as the three cities of Chaoshan (Shantou, Chaozhou and Jieyang).
Chaozhou Bayi
This is also the case. In the past, the chamber of commerce in Chaoshan, Guangdong Province was called Chaozhou Port, and clubs all over the country were called Chaozhou Club. As a signature dish with a long history, the word Chaozhou cuisine will still be a reliable title, including three signature dishes divided by Guangdong Cuisine Museum at present, namely Guangfu Cuisine, Huizhou Dongjiang Cuisine (Hakka Cuisine) and Chaozhou Cuisine. Like many Hong Kong and Taiwan movies, Chaoshan people are also called "chaozhou people". Therefore, in many cases, Chaozhou refers to all Chaoshan areas in Guangdong, not just Chaozhou today.
Generally speaking, why does Chaozhou cuisine have such a high reputation as a special dish in a small area and one of the three sub-special dishes under the Cantonese Restaurant in the eight major cuisines?
I think that if we simply understand Chaozhou cuisine by geographical division, we will probably never understand this problem. The causes of Chaozhou cuisine are complex, including not only regional factors, such as rich products and ethnic components, but also various cultural shocks and exchanges caused by historical migration and trade theme activities. For example, as one of the well-known commercial gangs in history, Chaozhou commercial gang's extensive trade theme activities have led to the exchange and dissemination of cooking technology, which is also one of the indispensable factors for the emergence of Chaozhou cuisine today.
Therefore, in the first and second chapters, or from my understanding, I will talk about the reasons why Chaozhou cuisine has become Chaozhou cuisine today. This chapter mainly talks about the causes of diet structure in Chaoshan, Guangdong from ancient times to the Republic of China.
Colorful products, rich and harsh mouth.
Looking at all kinds of special dishes in the world, it is not difficult for everyone to find them. Specialties are generally divided into regions first.
Why? Because regionality is the most direct reason for the emergence of special dishes. To put it bluntly, it means eating and drinking by water. For example, most Japanese dishes take pictures of fish caught in the sea as cooking materials, while Mongolians in Xinjiang Province are dominated by sheep, cattle and dairy products, while specialty dishes have been produced for various reasons for many years. In ancient times, when freight logistics was underdeveloped, the region decided to be rich in products, rich in products and decided the food selection category of special dishes, which also endangered the cooking concept at a very high level.
According to Ting Huang's History of Chaoshan, the total area of Chaoshan in Guangdong is about 65,438+00,346 square kilometers, with a high terrain in the northwest and low terrain in the southwest. There are many mountains in the northeast and northwest, and the southwest is close to the sea, thus forming a relatively closed area with a long sea area. Therefore, the advantage of Chaoshan in Guangdong is that it is close to the sea, which produces all kinds of fish essential for Chaoshan people's food details, which is why many people are interested in Chaoshan in Guangdong.
However, the physical and geographical features of Chaoshan in Guangdong are not only close to the sea, but also the Chaoshan river system in Guangdong is full of water. There are three main rivers in this area: Hanjiang River, Rongjiang River and Lianjiang River, which also produces a vast plain area washed and settled by rivers, which makes the agriculture in Chaoshan, Guangdong reach an excellent standard. Because of the delicious food in Chaoshan, Guangdong, all kinds of whole grains are made in time. Hillside resources are also rich and colorful. There are more than 20 lakes with an altitude of 100 meters, such as Fenghuang Mountain, Emei Mountain and Lianhua Mountain. Among them, Wuji Mountain, the highest peak of Phoenix Mountain, is the highest peak in Chaoshan area of Guangdong Province. The long sea area, the evenly distributed water system, the vast plain area and the sloping land of Lin Yun, such diverse landforms, coupled with the horizontal fall on the Tropic of Cancer, abundant sunshine and abundant precipitation, bring all the rich and varied foods in Chaoshan, Guangdong Province, which is the most critical basic standard of Chaozhou cuisine.
Topographic map of Chaoshan specialty
And because of the beautiful scenery, Chaoshan people get along with all kinds of food for a long time. There are many foods to choose from, so in Chaoshan, Guangdong's food culture, we will pay special attention to the season and freshness, and try our best to eat each kind of food at the best time, which has produced a very unshakable insistence on "freshness", such as "Song of Famous Fishermen in South Australia", which lists what seafood should be eaten every month and writes Cheng Guangdong Chaoshan Gezi (a way of local folk songs):
Who knows the zentraedi? Who knows about marine fish and shrimp? There are seven stars in the moonlight, and the Chen Nan Beidou positioning system appears in the summer night. The saury in January looks like a lamp, and the spring in February is just a fake wealth. In March, yellow is only covered with meat, and in April, Balang has no scales. Good fish, horses, mackerel and pomfret are in May, and the arena is in June. In July, reddish brown wears a red coat, and in August, the red fish is the bride. In September, the red crab had belly cream, and in October, its feet were hairless. 1 1 month, Mo Dou line closed the smoke screen,1February, crayfish kept the track. There are many deep-sea fish and shrimp, and the bad fish is Brother Lai. Jellyfish is wearing a big white hat, and chinemys reevesii is wearing a black coat.
Swordfish, spring fish, yellow croaker, brown fish, mackerel, sand-pointed fish, reddish brown fish and red fish are all common catches in Chaoshan, Guangdong Province, and the stalls of fish traders in Chaoshan, Guangdong Province also account for a high proportion, and all kinds of fish are magnificent. The natural faucet and fish body at the lower left of the picture below, like this huge fish, are hard to see in other farmers' markets.
Natural dragon fan and big squid?
? All kinds of seafood?
? All kinds of seafood?
? All kinds of seafood?
? All kinds of seafood
In Chaoshan, Guangdong, there will be a saying that seafood is "one fresh, two fat and three times", which can be said to be a universal principle for seafood ingredients selection. It pays great attention to seasons. Eating seasonal ingredients in special seasons can be said to be harsh, but it can also be said to be the perfect pursuit of food and food.
Racial integration and diet structure
Why talk about ethnic composition when talking about food? Because you don't understand this, it may be difficult for you to understand why a coastal group has so many seafood products and so many rice products in the food list, and you can also see some food structures in ancient China.
Today's Chaoshan people have actually experienced several ethnic integrations. Generally, in the scientific research references of Chaoshan ancestors in Guangdong Province, it is believed that Chaoshan people are descendants of Tujia, She, Li and Han nationalities, among which the Han nationality who moved south from China is the mainstay of Chaoshan people.
Shangqun ethnic group is a slang ethnic group with a long history except one pulse. Due to complete assimilation, it did not leave too many traces in the diet structure of Chaoshan, Guangdong. Several other groups have done great harm to the diet structure in Chaoshan, Guangdong.
1. Jiajia
The family in Chaoshan, Guangdong Province belongs to Baiyue, and the records dating back to the new moon can be traced back at least to the Southern Song Dynasty. According to Guangdong Tongzhi, during the Southern Song Dynasty, there were more than 50,000 families in charge of family business in Guangdong Province, especially in Huizhou and Chaozhou. Yi nationality is a Chinese nation at sea. According to the Records of Chaoyang County, Yi families have no huts on the land, and they don't work for farming. Both boys and girls live on boats and make a living by fishing. According to records, there are seven Yi families in Chaoshan, Guangdong Province: Mai, Pu, Wu, Su, He, Gu and Zeng. Although the Chinese of most family members has been simplified at this stage, this thread can still be regarded as the historical origin of Chaoshan people's marine tourism culture. Speaking of food, all kinds of fishing food and sea-catching theme activities are of course closely related to family members, leaving a strong impression on Chaozhou cuisine.
2. She nationality
On the other hand, the She nationality belongs to the nomadic people in China. She people believe that its origin is Phoenix Mountain in Chaozhou, and then it moved to Fujian, Zhejiang, Jiangxi, Anhui and other provinces. I don't know whether she nationality is called the indigenous people of Chaoshan in Guangdong at this stage, but there are still different opinions. Because there are records of the She nationality moving into Chaoshan, Guangdong Province, it can only be traced back to the Tang Dynasty at first.
But for Chaoshan, Guangdong, she nationality can be said to be the historical origin of mainland culture and art, farming and rice culture and art in Chaoshan, Guangdong. The annual flavor festival of She nationality is Baixinmi. According to legend, rice used to be a long-grain fragrant rice in the fairy world. Pan Hu, the ancestor of She nationality, could not bear to starve his subjects, so he went to the celestial world to steal rice and was attacked by the celestial world. Pan Hu was finally placed in Phoenix Mountain in Chaozhou, and rice was also sown. Finally, rice seeds were brought to the world.
Farming brings not only legendary stories, but also worship culture and art to Chaoshan, Guangdong. There should be no less than 30 seasons in Chaoshan, Guangdong, and the goal of worship in each season is different, which in turn gives birth to all kinds of grains as raw materials, and the main uses of worship are various and subtle. Not to mention mainlanders, it is difficult to regenerate them all at a cost.
For example, from the source of glutinous rice flour, it includes rice paste, sticky rice flour, wheat flour and sweet potato flour. The use of the first class is still diverse, and the proportion is different. No matter whether it is mellow or not, it is probably a completely different kind of glutinous rice. For example, sweet glutinous rice and money glutinous rice are both made of glutinous rice. If you add some other food to it, it will evolve into a newer product. For example, the familiar mouse shell is added with mouse shell grass; The head of the vegetable is the addition of radish; Penang bran was added to table tennis in Jieyang city; Spanish potato cake skin, that is, adding purple potato paste into it. Even if the ingredients of rice flour are the same and the fillings are different, it can be further subdivided, such as rice-free glutinous rice (leek stuffing), taro glutinous rice and bamboo shoot glutinous rice, that is, the skins of glutinous rice are the same, but the fillings are different.
In fact, the appearance of this kind of coffin is closely related to the worship culture and art of She nationality.