Just like everyone is fighting for "Red Cliff" and "Huaguoshan", blood ducks are also being fought for. We would like to call it "Ningyuan Blood Duck", while restaurants in Hunan call it "Yongzhou Blood Duck". Jiangxi is called "Lotus Blood Duck", while Guangxi is called "Quanzhou Blood Duck"; It is said that there are blood ducks in Paris, France.
The practice of China blood duck is basically the same, although the names vary from place to place: choose a live duckling, drop the blood into a wine bowl and mix well when killing, to prevent the duck's blood from coagulating, then put a proper amount of oil, salt and lobster sauce into the pot, then put the cut duck meat into the pot, at the same time, put some water, and when it is about to be cooked, add pepper, star anise, ginger, huoxiang and so on. After boiling and frying, pour duck blood on the block and stir-fry for a while.
By the way, it is said that the French blood duck (Canard Au Sang) has been the favorite dish of French aristocrats since the 9th century. The craftsmanship of French blood duck is complicated, and it looks a bit stupid: the chef cooks the duck's body first, dishes the freshly cooked duck's spleen and duck's breast, and then performs live in front of the diners. With special copper tableware, the whole duck shell is squeezed, and the duck's blood and bone marrow flow out, and the duck juice is boiled and poured on the duck's breast and duck's spleen. I haven't eaten it, so I dare not comment on it. It looks like 111% western food, which is similar to the way foie gras is eaten. However, from this point of view, the delicious duck blood was discovered by the people of two great countries, China and France.
why are there blood ducks in Jiangxi, Hunan and Guangxi? Who was earlier?
let's take a look at what Jiangxi people say first. In 1276 AD, Wen Tianxiang, the prime minister of the Southern Song Dynasty, gathered a teacher to fight against the Yuan Army, and heroes from all walks of life gathered in the Lotus. He was ready to open a handsome flag to drink blood wine. Because there was a lack of chicken at that time, he replaced it with duck blood. It was said that Liu Delin, a chef in the rotor army, was very serious because he was entertaining the Prime Minister Wen, and he was nervous. When cooking ducks, he poured the unfinished blood wine as hot sauce because of panic.
the other version is similar, a little more complicated. It was also originally intended to use duck blood to make blood wine. The cook responsible for killing ducks was from Lianhua County. After he made the blood wine, he went to drink it himself and got drunk. When cooking fried duck, I mixed blood wine into the dish as water in a muddle, only to find that I was wrong after mixing it. I used my quick wits and quickly gave this fried duck a name called "Blood Duck". Everyone was full of praise for this dish at dinner, and Wen Tianxiang was also very satisfied. Although there was no blood wine, since he had eaten blood duck, the meaning of drinking blood wine was here. Wen Tianxiang asked everyone to work hard to kill the enemy in the future, resist the Yuan Army, and protect the land of Dasong, so he pardoned the lotus cook. Up to now, "Lotus Blood Duck" in Lianhua County, Ji 'an City, Jiangxi Province is still a local specialty.
In Ningyuan, people regard fried blood duck, braised dog meat and fermented tofu as three traditional famous dishes. It is essential for people to prepare "chicken, duck and fish belly" during the Spring Festival, and most of the ducks use the method of frying blood ducks.
In Quanzhou, Guangxi, there is a saying that "fried blood ducks in Quanzhou are the best in flavor". It is said that He Xiangu, one of the Eight Immortals, passed through Quanzhou occasionally and was greatly appreciated. After that, for a period of time, a fried duck with blood for one meal made her linger. Therefore, as the saying goes, "After eating the fried blood duck, Fairy will not go home."
It seems that only Jiangxi has a story about the origin of blood ducks, while Hunan and Guangxi are just boasting about how delicious their blood ducks are. This may be a manifestation of "Jiangxi fills Huguang" in the history of China immigrants, that is to say, the cooking method of blood duck originated in Jiangxi, and later it was brought to Hunan and Guangxi with Jiangxi people migrating to Huguang. This "Huguang" refers to Hunan and Hubei in the Qing Dynasty, but before that it was the collective name of Jinghu South Road, Jinghu North Road and Guangnan West Road, so it is not surprising that there are blood ducks in Yongzhou, Hunan and Quanzhou, Guangxi.
Looking up the source of Ningyuan's surname, we can find that many of them are from Jiangxi. For example, Liu Zhongzheng, the ancestor of a branch of the surname Liu, moved from Jiangxi to Dabeidong (now Yuntan) in Ningyuan in order to avoid war in the Song Dynasty, and his descendants lived in Liujia, Renhe and Liu Anzhong, the arch bridge of Heting. A branch of the surname Huang comes from Lingling County, and the ancestor of this branch, Huanggu, originated from Fenning County, Hongzhou, Jiangxi Province, and moved to Lingling County during the Ming Hongwu period, and one of them moved to Baijiaqiao and Shijiadong in Ningyuan. One of the ancestors of Chen's surname is Chen Zhide, who was originally from Jiangxi. In Yuan Dynasty, the soldiers were in chaos, and he lived in Shima Village, Ningyuan Water City. The second is Chen Sheng, who was originally from Ejingtang, Taihe County, Jiangxi Province. In the Ming Dynasty, he moved to Sizhou Village, Guiyang, and then moved to Shenxian Cave and Yangtang in Ningyuan. His descendants separated from Shanglongpan, Xiaomutang and Tongmuluo. Zhang Xuangui, the ancestor of Zhang's surname, was originally from Taihe, Jiangxi Province, and was mutinied at the end of Yuan Dynasty. He took refuge in Yongzhou with his three sons. The eldest son, Wan Yi, lived in Lingling Bridge, the second son, Wan Er, lived in Yuandayang Cave, Ning Yuan, and the third son, Wan San, lived in Yuntan, Ning Yuan (this is the origin of my mother's hometown, Laozhangjia Village). Wang xing was originally from Ji 'an, Jiangxi Province, and moved to Xiufeng Mountain, Shimen Mountain, Daqi Mountain, Luguan and Jiuyi Mountain in Ningyuan at the end of the Yuan Dynasty. Ouyang, the largest compound surname in Ningyuan, was originally from Luling, Jiangxi Province (now Ji 'an). In the Northern Song Dynasty, his ancestors worked in Guiyang, and his descendants moved to Ningyuan, where they first lived in Xizaohetian under the gods. Later generations separated in Zhonghe, Xinkai, Mu Tou, Falling, Security and other places. My surname Xiao is also from Jiangxi, and I can trace it back to Xiao in Lanling County. These facts can roughly reflect the previous assumptions.
If we trace back to the origin of Ji 'an ancestors in Jiangxi Province, most of them may come from the Central Plains and belong to Hakka people in a broad sense, which can be seen from the hostile attitude towards the Yuan Army in the "origin of blood ducks". In the diet, this hypothesis can also be reflected in fermented tofu, which can be discussed another day.