Guangdong cuisine is rich in ingredients and detailed in methods.

Coastal and tropical, it provides Guangdong with rich and varied animal and plant ingredients and seasonings.

In practice, due to its long history, there are various cooking methods of ingredients.

Take eating geese as an example. There are roast geese, braised geese, white-cut geese, deer geese and drunk geese. Among the roasted geese, the roast goose with litchi wood is the best.

Cantonese people will definitely say that their roast goose is more delicious than Beijing roast duck.

The roast goose cooked from the ancient deep well and natural litchi wood is especially crispy, even and delicious./Bilibili@ Hei Ge Cuisine

Guangdong's white-cut chicken and black-fried chicken are more delicious than other chickens, and the white-cut chicken must be accompanied with Shajiang soy sauce.

Take dim sum, which is rich in morning tea culture. For dessert, milk is played with double skin milk, ginger milk and fried milk.

In terms of drinking, old fire and good soup are all exquisite.

in terms of seasoning, you can find it in other places, but you can't find it in other places, such as fish sauce.

on pickles, there are not only dried plums, but also olives.

On February 23rd, 219, morning tea was held in Guangzhou, Guangdong Province

But Shenzhen, Guangdong Province seems to be an exception.

It's impossible for people who have been in Shenzhen for some time not to have heard this sentence:

Where is the fun in Shenzhen? Go to Hong Kong.

where is delicious in Shenzhen? Go to Guangzhou.

Is there really a lack of delicious food in Shenzhen, which makes the passenger flow go to the surrounding areas in vain?

Shenzhen, a gourmet desert in the south

As a vast first-tier city, the spending power of Shenzhen people, a large number of foreign business travelers and tourists can certainly attract all kinds of restaurants to open stores.

However, compared with similar cities, Shenzhen can't compete with Shanghai, and it can't compete with Guangzhou, which has the reputation of "eating in Guangzhou".

As a big city with a population of more than 1 million, in 217, the overall operating income of the catering industry in Guangzhou was nearly twice that of Shenzhen.

The number of enterprises above designated size and the income from meals in Guangzhou are more than those in Shenzhen.

Comparison of catering between Guangzhou and Shenzhen/Drawing according to the data in Guangdong Statistical Yearbook 218

This is not to say that Shenzhen people don't like food, nor is the catering industry developed to such a degree that it can meet the needs of Shenzhen.

according to a survey of catering industry in 22 tourist cities, Shenzhen is the city with the highest catering demand and Shanghai is the city with the highest supply [6].

Shenzhen people's hunger for food can also be seen from the success of Libaoge in Shenzhen.

This is not an old shop. It started in Hong Kong and settled in Shenzhen in 213. After that, it grew rapidly and won a bonus from Shenzhen Taxation Bureau.

There are plenty of dishes in the store/facebook@ Libaoge

Libaoge has become the first in the list of public comments on Shenzhen Cantonese cuisine today, and its Kerry store has about 17, comments, ranking second with nearly 1, comments [1][3].

But the price of this store is not low, and the per capita consumption has reached 158 yuan.

A large number of Shenzhen locals or foreign tourists are willing to pay a higher price to consume this store.

The decoration in the store is magnificent and the consumption level is not low/facebook@ Libaoge

What kind of spirit is this? People in Shanghai and Guangzhou can't hear it, but maybe only people in Beijing can hear it.

in terms of the stores with the largest number of reviews in a single store, the Cantonese restaurant with the largest number of reviews in Guangzhou consumes 75 yuan per capita, while Guimanlong, the local dish with the largest number of reviews in Shanghai, consumes 86 yuan per capita.

Beijing, on the other hand, is like a northern copy of Shenzhen, with many shops with high per capita consumption and high reviews.

Shenzhen, as an immigrant city and a mega-city, is indeed rich in exotic dishes besides Cantonese cuisine, but it is not as good as Guangzhou and Shanghai.

On December 24th, 217, Shenzhen Light Music Food Festival opened, and the food street was bustling with tourists

Take Sichuan cuisine, which occupies a strong position in Guangdong, as an example.

Shenzhen has a high proportion of immigrants, and Sichuan immigrants can be ranked in the top three.

But there are about 1, Miao's Sichuan dishes with the highest reviews in a single store in Shenzhen. In Guangzhou, there are 13, Sichuan Rongyu (Jiangnan Avenue Store) with the highest reviews in a single store; There are 26, comments on Sichuan Chili peppers in Shanghai [2].

In the hot pot list, Shangshangqian, the number one shop in Shanghai, and the number two senior officials are much higher than those in Shenzhen hot pot Bahe Lihai, and Guangzhou's number one hot pot Fengyuan Yezhen chicken coconut Theme Restaurant is also higher than that in Bahe Li.

In terms of Japanese food, Western food and Southeast Asian food, Shenzhen is not as good as Guangzhou and Shanghai.

the comparison of the reviews of the shops with the highest number of reviews on food categories, in which the local dishes in Shenzhen and Guangzhou are Cantonese cuisine, while the local dishes in Shanghai are Jiangsu and Zhejiang cuisine/public reviews

The reviews of the shops are relatively few, either because the shops opened late, or the number of diners is small, and there is a lack of punch cards.

whatever the reason, to some extent, it reflects that the store is not hot enough or the number of people who have received meals is small.

Why is Shenzhen hungry in Guangdong, where food is a dime a dozen?

Shenzhen is still too young

Shenzhen is an immigrant city.

Before p>198, Shenzhen was not developed. At that time, the buildings on the street in Shenzhen were only about one floor high, standing within 3 square kilometers [4].

Shenzhen's short development history is rare in the world.

This determines that Shenzhen has no time-honored brands or traditional snacks compared with other cities.

On February 7, 219, the night view of Jingji 1 Building and Diwang Building in Shenzhen was very beautiful. "Shenzhen speed" has left the tradition of this city behind

The historical inheritance has a great influence on the food culture.

For example, Chaozhou cuisine, because Chaoshan once had a large population and little food, loved to drink porridge, and became exquisite, making the best use of its ingredients.

And all kinds of foods used in sacrificial ceremonies in Chaoshan area, such as glutinous rice, have also spread into daily diet [5].

if there is no drastic change, this kind of food culture can continue to develop.

Compared with Guangzhou, where there are not as many immigrants as Shenzhen, Cantonese cuisine can do well in Guangzhou after the 198s.

Chaoshan casserole thick porridge/Bilibili@ wuxiaoshi

At that time, Guangzhou absorbed elements such as brine from Chaozhou cuisine (also known as Chaozhou cuisine, its origin and food culture popular in Chaoshan area of Guangdong), and also absorbed elements of Hong Kong-style Cantonese cuisine, which developed into "Cantonese cuisine" for most people today [8].

The saying that "food is in Guangzhou" has existed for a long time.

Guangzhou people have always loved eating, and they spend more on dining out, and the Engel coefficient and per capita food expenditure are on the high side [17], which also feeds the catering industry in Guangzhou.

comparison of Engel coefficient of five cities in early years (unit:%). Engel's coefficient is the proportion of catering to consumption, and Guangzhou has the highest proportion among cities. 26 survey report on social and economic hot issues in China [M]. Beijing: China Statistics Publishing House. 27.

Local people love to eat, which can cultivate the local catering market, attract tourists to travel by catering, and further develop the catering industry.

Guangzhou and Chengdu are all such examples [9].

But Shenzhen itself, as a small village, expanded rapidly after becoming a special economic zone and became a huge population pump in the south.

In 25, Shenzhen was already an immigrant city with a population of 8 million, and 7% of the population were not locals.

A large influx of immigrants are busy making money, not as fond of food as Guangzhou people, and have their own tastes. Consumption can't provide a powerful driving force for cultivating catering.

On July 18th, 218, Shenzhen Huaqiang North Subway Commercial Street opened, with a flood of passengers. With the influx of population, all kinds of commercial streets came into being.

There was a Weibo in Chen Xiaoqing that said:

Shenzhen is a city with a huge number of immigrants, and almost everyone is their own hometown, so their tastes are somewhat unclear.

As there are a large number of people from Hunan, Hubei, Sichuan, etc., and recent people from Northeast China, they brought Sichuan, Hunan and Northeast cuisine. Among them, Sichuan cuisine, which developed the earliest, is stronger.

On June 15th, 218, the night market of Shenzhen Pingzhou subway station gathered local cuisines.

These cuisines from all corners of the country began to carve up territory in Shenzhen.

Guangdong cuisine, which had little background in Shenzhen, was excluded.

local food is not strong, and it is difficult for foreign food to develop in Shenzhen.

Let's take Sichuan cuisine as an example. Sichuan cuisine is in the lower reaches of the contempt chain in Guangdong.

Cantonese cuisine, with wide foraging materials, light and delicate taste, is at the top of the contempt chain; Sichuan cuisine, on the other hand, is very spicy and is the food of outsiders [8].

Even the Cantonese cuisine itself, the more advanced the restaurant, the lighter and more delicious the food is, while the fried, sweeter, salty and spicy food may be served in the lower-end Cantonese restaurant.

A Sichuan restaurant in Shenzhen does as the Romans do, serving small bowls of Sichuan noodles with light taste/Bilibili@Bunny

A Sichuan restaurant in Shenzhen does as the Romans do, serving light food/Bilibili@Bunny

Cantonese people want vegetables and soup when eating, while Shenzhen Sichuan cuisine does as the Romans do, and a Sichuan restaurant serves sea cucumber and vegetable soup/Bilibili@Bunny

besides, can you develop authentic Sichuan cuisine by developing in different places?

it is not easy.

For short-term tourists, no one has to pay so much effort to go to Guangdong to eat Sichuan food.

For the resident population, the mobility of Sichuanese in Guangdong is also greater than that of Cantonese in Guangdong, which is a fatal blow to the establishment of the reputation of the cuisine.

in the past three or four decades, Shenzhen has experienced a vigorous industrial iteration [7].

In this industrial iteration, Shenzhen's permanent residents are highly educated and there are more and more middle classes [15].

On May 3, 219, in Shenzhen, Guangdong Province, employees in a canteen of a large factory were ordering food. The gathering of large factories is also the attraction of Shenzhen.

At the beginning, some people who served in restaurants have left, and Shenzhen has welcomed some new people. Then, the establishment of word of mouth becomes difficult.

Secondly, in terms of spending power, in 24, the per capita monthly income of local migrants was 1,14 yuan, while the local registered population was 2,159 yuan [16].

more restaurants serving foreigners have less consumption power.

Shenzhen, where it is difficult for a hundred flowers to blossom

Guangdong cuisine in Shenzhen is not well developed, and Sichuan cuisine is not well developed. What about other dishes?

Speaking of it, Shanghai can become the first Michelin guide city in Chinese mainland, not only because of the local cuisine, but also because of a certain cuisine.

Shanghai's prosperous catering industry is the result of a hundred flowers blooming.

On December 15th, 218, tourists visited the Yuyuan Garden in Shanghai and tasted all kinds of time-honored snacks, such as Nanxiang steamed buns and crab powder soup-filling buns.

On June 22nd, 219, many northerners didn't understand why Shanghainese went out to queue up to buy soup-filling steamed buns. In their eyes, isn't this the ordinary steamed bread that every family would make?

On July 15th, 218, Shanghai, Cantonese Restaurant. In Shanghai, you can eat all over the world if you have money

But why isn't Shenzhen famous for other dishes?

behind every city's delicious food, it is inseparable from the city's own characteristics.

according to a study, the catering industry in a city is mainly determined by the agriculture, transportation and water supply and power supply industry behind the city [6].

Although Shenzhen has developed transportation, it is not in the top position in agriculture, water supply and power supply.

On June 19th, 215, a traditional fisherman was in Jiaochangwei, Shenzhen. Shenzhen used to be a small fishing village.

After becoming a special zone, Shenzhen has developed rapidly and expanded its area, but it is still a high-density city in the world, with almost all high-rise buildings in its jurisdiction.

this high density has affected the catering industry in Shenzhen from two aspects.

first, the supply of food; Secondly, the architectural form will affect the catering vitality of the city.

On July 14th, 218, the old and renovated Hubei Village was demolished in Luohu, Shenzhen, and the night market was very lively.

Within the jurisdiction of various cities in China, a certain amount of agricultural land is generally reserved, so that the food supply has a certain self-sufficiency rate.

but Shenzhen is an exception.

Shenzhen lacks agricultural land, and the seaport is not used to develop fisheries.

In 28, the proportion of self-supplied agricultural and fishery products in Shenzhen was already very low.

Chengdu is a model of the developed agriculture around the city, which can supply a large number of vegetables in Chengdu, and it is also popular as a form of agriculture closely combined with catering: farmhouse music [1].

the self-sufficiency rate of ingredients in Chengdu, Nanjing, Shanghai and Shenzhen, and the statistics years are in brackets. Source: lang g, Miao B. food security for China's cities [j]. International Planning Studies, 213,18 (1): 5-2.

This situation will not change, and a few non-construction land in Shenzhen are mainly used for afforestation and golf courses [1, 13].

Among other cities in Guangdong, Guangzhou itself produces a large number of vegetables and aquatic products, and Foshan and Dongguan also produce more.

Shenzhen has used the precious land for other purposes, which will inevitably increase the transportation cost of ingredients.

It's not that there is anything wrong with this resource allocation, but from the perspective of eating goods, Guangzhou seems to be more suitable for a food trip.

The output of aquatic products, pork and vegetables in Shenzhen-Guangzhou, Foshan and Dongguan in 217/Drawing according to Guangdong Statistical Yearbook 218

The impact of land lies not only in the supply of ingredients, but also in the dining places.

Shanghai has land for catering construction. In 218, there were more than 1, restaurants in Shanghai, and the number and density of restaurants ranked first among cities in China [11].

However, there are fewer restaurants in Shenzhen, and the chain restaurants are becoming compact.

the ratio of business area and number of meals divided by the number of employees in Shenzhen is a low point in big cities [12].

Basic situation of chain catering enterprises in Shanghai, Guangzhou and Shenzhen in 217/Drawing according to the data of Statistical Yearbook of Retail and Catering Chain Enterprises in China in 218

The ratio of the number of seats divided by the number of employees is low, which shows that more employees serve fewer seats, and to some extent, it shows that in the case of tighter land in Shenzhen, They are more exquisite, and of course they may be more expensive.

The catering chain is generally a successful and mature catering enterprise.

This may show that Shenzhen is not completely devoid of delicious food, but it lacks more delicious food that ordinary people can afford.

On January 28th, 215, in a famous hotel in Shenzhen, the price was very high, with food and entertainment. As long as you can afford it

Fortunately, friends in Shenzhen don't have to wait too long.

Nowadays, Shenzhen has become an ideal place for many people to move to, and it is gradually showing the characteristics of high income and high food consumption.

Engel's coefficient of Shenzhen (refers to the consumption expenditure of diet as a proportion of total expenditure)