Heng Chong said that people in Fuzhou began to be busy for the New Year as early as December 24th of the lunar calendar. According to Fuzhou people's tradition, there is no killing after December 24th of the lunar calendar, so the meat to be eaten in the first month has to be prepared before that. At home, women hang the killed chickens and pigs from the ceiling, dry them, stew them, and put them in an urn for pickling with wine and various ingredients.
Hou Hengchong said that such a jar of food is not only a delicacy on the reunion dinner table, but can often be eaten until the end of the month.
On New Year's Eve, before having a reunion dinner, people in Fuzhou should worship their ancestors first. Among many sacrifices, Hou Hengchong was most impressed by horseshoes and rice cakes. Horseshoe grows in the field and has a strong vitality. It is hoped that the ancestors will bless the meaning of the successors of the families concerned.
Fuzhou people's rice cakes are different from those common in the local market. They are as big as a tray and have different tastes. Therefore, every year, Fuzhou Guild Hall will order rice cakes for its members, so that villagers can taste the rice cakes with unique Fuzhou flavor.
When offering sacrifices to ancestors, the rice cake should be sliced and fried, and then put on a plate for offering. Fuzhou people attach great importance to rice cakes. Apart from offering sacrifices to ancestors, rice cakes are also a dessert on the reunion dinner table. Even if they don't eat them, they will be indispensable on the dinner table. In addition, red fermented chicken, Fuzhou fish balls and meat swallows are also delicious foods on the dinner table of Fuzhou people.
Fuzhou people also have an interesting annual custom. After the family reunion dinner, parents should use toilet paper to wipe their mouths for their children, which means that children talk nonsense. If the children say something wrong, I hope the gods will not blame him.
On the first day of New Year's Day, Fuzhou people must make sacrifices to heaven before going out to pay a New Year's call, and bamboo rice is a necessary sacrifice. The rice is served in a bamboo-woven container with a paper red flower inserted in it and chopsticks inserted around it, which means praying to heaven.
According to tradition, people in Fuzhou have to eat a bowl that is too flat. That's noodles soaked in red fermented chicken soup, and two eggs are added to the noodles. Now some people have replaced them with quail eggs. As the name implies, a flat surface is safe to eat.
Hou Hengchong remembers that the Lantern Festival in Fuzhou is also very lively. Visiting the gods is a big festival, and the festive atmosphere is pushed to the climax by the sound of drums, crowds and firecrackers.
Hou Hengchong returned to Singapore at the age of 2 in 1959. Over the past decades, due to various factors, the traditional customs of Fuzhou people have been unable to be completely preserved.
Hou Hengchong said, for example, many Fuzhou families have joined non-Fuzhou members. In order to adapt to the eating habits and preferences of members from different places of origin, these families have to add some non-Fuzhou foods, so that the food on the reunion dinner table is no longer just Fuzhou food.
He said: "This is the result of the change of the times. Older Fuzhou people should not stick to their own opinions. Under the principle of harmony, we should make appropriate adjustments in line with the times."
The custom of celebrating the New Year in old Shanghai
The Spring Festival has lasted for thousands of years in China. But for a long time, the term "Spring Festival" refers to the "beginning of spring" among the 24 solar terms in a year. It was not until the Revolution of 1911 overthrew the rule of the Manchu Dynasty and the founding of the Republic of China that Sun Yat-sen ordered the whole country to switch to the solar calendar. Subsequently, the New Year should also be changed to New Year's Day in the solar calendar. However, after all, the Lunar New Year has become a traditional festival celebrated by the whole people, and the solid and profound local customs and national culture are hard to change. The celebration of the Lunar New Year is still endless and strong year after year. As a result of a new New Year's Day in the solar calendar, since the Republic of China, the Lunar New Year has been called "Spring Festival" in solar terms.
In the old days, the Chinese New Year began on December 23rd of the lunar calendar, and it lasted until the Lantern Festival on the 15th of the first month, and a set of fixed procedures was formed. Let's look at how Shanghai celebrated the New Year in the old days.
The 24th day of the twelfth lunar month, that is, the 24th day of December, is the day when "Kitchen God" plays things in heaven. Therefore, on the 23rd night, every household will "send a kitchen stove" and "offer a kitchen stove" to celebrate the New Year. At night, every household worships the kitchen god in the hall, and more often, on the kitchen stove with the image of the kitchen god, wine and fruit are served, and water chestnuts, clams, good fish and good meat are also provided. There is a bamboo branch saying: "Fame and fortune prosper with little right and wrong, and all of them are dependent on God." There is nothing to offer at present, and fish buy fresh meat to buy fat. "
The kitchen god went to heaven to report to the Jade Emperor the quality of human beings and human faults in a year. In order to prevent him from going too far, people also provided sugar ingots made of caramel when giving away the kitchen stove. It is said that in order to make him eat and stick to his teeth, he could not speak clearly, so that he could say less and not speak ill of the world. At the time of "giving away the stove", all the main points were lit with incense sticks. It was night, the cigarettes in the house were filled with dazzling offerings, and the atmosphere of celebrating the New Year came at once.
The 25th day of the twelfth lunar month is the day when the gods go down. Traditionally, every household dusts inside and outside, removes the accumulated dust for one year, and cleans up the sundries that are usually piled up. This move is quite serious, and in today's words, it can be called an active and well-regulated mass health movement. After this day's work, every household is dirty, its supplies are better than before, and its appearance is fresh inside and outside, which is like a new year's eve.
From this day on, every household began to be busy with all aspects of the Spring Festival. The first thing is to buy and prepare all kinds of food for the New Year. Every household must also grind flour to make glutinous rice balls, and some families make homemade rice cakes with flour. The former means "round and round", while the latter can be "happy" and "high year after year". The second is to prepare new clothes, new hats and new shoes. People may wear old things all year round, but they must look over their "clothes" in the New Year. Once again, I began to buy Spring Festival couplets, New Year pictures and "door gods" to post on the doors, upstairs and downstairs. During this period, in order to meet the needs of the public, there were many kinds of these things on the market. Each family also needs its own things. For example, if you buy Spring Festival couplets, the store will choose "business is booming all over the world, and the financial resources are flourishing up to the Three Rivers", while the average household will choose "days increase, people live longer, spring is full, and Kunming is full of happiness".
This period is also the busiest time of the year. On the one hand, business is booming and sales are booming. On the other hand, at the end of the year, it is the period when each family cleans up the current accounts for one year and asks the debtors for the arrears. So each family sent a special person to handle this matter, and a large-scale "debt collection" team appeared in the city: "carrying the bill in a cloth bag, crossing the street from east to west. When you step into the heavy door, you are busy calling for it, and your husband should return to Qi. " There are many people who can't repay their accounts on time for various reasons. Debt collectors bear heavy responsibilities and pursue hard, often acting day and night, regardless of the cold of the night.
among those who can't pay their bills on time, there are actually many people who are completely unable to pay their bills. In addition to the debts owed to the store, these people are likely to owe personal debts. The end of the year is also the time when most of the debts are repaid, so these people are faced with the pressure of asking for money in two aspects. However, according to the usual practice, debt collection and collection can only be done until New Year's Eve, and it is not allowed to be done in the New Year. It is unlucky to blame yourself for "bad luck". Therefore, New Year's Eve is the last pass for those who evade their accounts and debts. If they escape this pass, it will be another matter next year. So they have been dealing with debt collectors and doing everything possible to get through this New Year's Eve: "The creditors who are riddled with holes come, and it is difficult to get back without any plans. I have to go on stage to avoid it today, and I will get rid of it after dawn. "
However, except for the above-mentioned poor people, on the whole, when the New Year comes, everyone is inevitably extremely jubilant and in high spirits. After all the preparations mentioned above, the New Year's Eve, which we are looking forward to every day, finally comes to our eyes, and the celebration of the New Year has reached a climax.
the beauty of new year's eve is at sunset. In the evening, all families gather indoors, even those who are far away from home, try to go home and spend the New Year with their families before. Everyone sat together under the lights, ate the "New Year's Eve", ate and drank, talked and laughed, and the meal lasted for a long time. This is a year of hard work to enjoy family happiness, hence the name "family fun".
This night is next to the New Year, so many family elders don't go to bed after the New Year's Eve, and stay around the stove for the New Year. Also talking and laughing, eating omnivores. People won't feel that this night is deeper and longer. At midnight, some people will go to the temple in the city to burn "head incense".
When the cock crows at the first light of day, all households, men, women and children wear new clothes, hats and shoes, and worship the heavens and the earth and their ancestors in the hall where offerings have already been arranged. Then, the young and the old paid New Year greetings to their parents, who distributed the lucky money that had been prepared years ago to their children. This was the long-awaited hope of the children, and they finally got it in their pockets with joy. Then open the door and let off the explosion to welcome the new year, and the neighbors meet each other to celebrate the new year.
From the first day of junior high school onwards, it is a period for relatives and friends to return and pay New Year greetings. Guests bring more gifts, and guests must be invited to drink "Yuanbao Tea", which is to put olives in the tea or put a olive on the top of the tea cover. He also offered fruit in a golden lacquer plate, and said, "Congratulations!". And I will treat you to wine and rice. At that time, the elders had to send lucky money whenever they saw their younger generation, which was inevitably a big burden for those who were financially strapped. However, this kind of New Year greeting was simplified in Shanghai in the late Qing Dynasty. People who have many contacts go out to pay New Year's greetings often don't come in the door, but only throw a thorn in their behalf, so that they can save entertainment and expenses: "In exchange for new peaches and colors, the robe is short to the door. Who is most afraid of frequent waist folding, throwing thorns in a hurry to celebrate the New Year. "
In the New Year, except walking around each other to mark the New Year, the rest of the time is "celebrated" with various excursions and entertainment activities. Some people go out for a stroll, and the most places they go are the City God Temple and the connected West Garden (that is, the Yuyuan Garden): "There is nothing to do in the New Year, and you can walk across the zigzag bridge in the garden. Suddenly I heard the children clap their hands together, and the kite shook for a long time. " However, since the establishment of the modern concession, the colorful Shili foreign exchange has become a fascinating place for amusement in the New Year, especially for those who live outside the foreign exchange: "People in the city love foreign exchange, while people outside the city compete for the temple garden. At the same time, it is generally willing to look at it, and everyone is speechless. " Others go out to watch plays, listen to books and drink tea. After the opening of the port, there was a lot of prostitution inside and outside the Shanghai foreign exchange, and some people took advantage of this period to have a wild trip, so they were busy with the fireworks fields everywhere: "The weather mirror in the New Year is newly polished, and money is thrown like a shuttle. There are thousands of Chu pavilions in Qin Lou, and there are many laughter at the opening of the fruit bowl "; Of course, more people often stay at home, and indoor fun can be found by themselves, such as inviting relatives and friends to build a "square city", playing drums and playing the piano, singing by themselves, and so on: "Good food, fresh clothes, and happiness make you older, and thousands of people cast thorns to borrow common names. Every household is closed for three days (referring to businesses), not the sound of cards or drums. "
on the fifth day of the first month, it is the birthday of the god of wealth (commonly known as the "road god"), and there are actions of "connecting with the god of wealth", "connecting with the god of wealth in five ways" and "connecting with the god of wealth in five ways" all over the country. The god of wealth is all about "wealth", and everyone is concerned, especially the merchants who start business for wealth, so their celebration is the most energetic. Shanghai has long been a prosperous commercial city in the southeast, and businesses can be seen everywhere. It is conceivable that the celebration of the fifth day is particularly fierce. Merchants receive more than three sacrifices from the God of Wealth: pig head, carp and rooster. Carp lovers, homophonic "Liyu", are particularly popular. As early as a few days ago, villagers from rural areas in the streets and lanes sold fresh carp to various pockets. Carp was also called "silver ingot fish", so it was called "sending silver ingots."
On the fifth day of junior high school, a new portrait of Marshal Zhao was hung in the middle of the merchant hall. Except for three sacrifices, the other offerings were extremely rich. The incense sticks were lit and the house was full of light. Then, firecrackers were set off indoors and outdoors, one after another, and the city roared and the sound shook for hundreds of miles. And continuously, its sound and power are too strong for the morning of the first day: "firecrackers can't be connected, and the god of wealth is busy fighting for it." I just want business to be good this year, so why not pick up and drop off at the fifth watch? "
It's the fifteenth Lantern Festival at last. The expiration of May coincides with the reunion, which is for good luck. On this day, every family must eat "Yuanxiao", that is, glutinous rice balls, which also means reunion and good luck. However, the prosperity of Lantern Festival lies in "lights", so it is also called "Lantern Festival". It is a big lantern in front of every household and shop, in temples, gardens, squares and other public places. After sunset, all the lights are put together, and even the city is connected, and the red light shines brightly. There are various shapes of lanterns, including various kinds of lanterns, plant lanterns, animal lanterns, character lanterns, story lanterns, etc. The most common lanterns in Shanghai are rabbit lanterns, ingot lanterns and lantern lanterns, and the biggest and most wonderful one is the "dragon lantern": the dragon body has a head and a tail, scales are flashing, and it is * * * long with a long handle, which is held by dragon dancers. Also, a special person holds a "rolling lantern" like a big ball, playing with the dragon body, chasing and even fighting, and they dance in the streets of Shanghai.
At that time, men, women and children will appear in groups. The Town God Temple and the West Garden are also the center of an activity. It is a pavilion decorated with colorful lights, which is bright inside and outside. In the garden, there is a big rockery and high rocks, and fireworks are also set off, which is the most attractive. The audience who came here jostled shoulder to shoulder, all smiling. In addition to watching the lights, this Lantern Festival enjoys a special "popularity": the so-called "ten-mile bead curtains are not rolled, and the people who watch the lights look at the people who watch the lights" is that unique artistic conception. The midnight snack will last until late at night, and when the lights are off, everyone will slowly walk home. There is a saying that this day happens to be the day when the kitchen god returns, so when he goes home, he just catches the kitchen master.
In the coming dawn, this year's Spring Festival celebration has come to an end. (Text/Zheng Zuan)
Chongming Spring Festival Customs
The Spring Festival is a major festival in China's folk tradition. It is the first festival in all seasons, so it is especially valued by people. As the saying goes: "A hundred miles of different winds, a thousand miles of different customs". Due to the unique region of the county, the customs of the Spring Festival vary slightly from place to place. Now I collect some scenes and shots around the Spring Festival in the past years, and get drunk together with readers.
Twenty-four nights
Since the 23rd day of the twelfth lunar month, people who have worked hard for a year have been busy to celebrate the Spring Festival. On the 13th or 24th day of the twelfth lunar month, they are collectively called "24 nights". According to legend, this day is the day when the kitchen god goes to heaven, and there is a custom among the people to send the kitchen god to heaven. On this night, the people used "rolled silver bags" (cooked with green vegetables, arrowheads, tofu, etc. as stuffing, and then wrapped with venetian blinds), "twenty-four sweets" and red bean rice as sacrificial food, lit incense sticks to offer sacrifices to the kitchen king, prepared paper money, tied colorful bridges, kowtowed to worship, then set off firecrackers, and put the kitchen king statue with the front curtain (commonly known as "happy string") This custom has been eliminated now, but the ancient custom of eating red bean rice and rolling silver bags still exists. After 24 nights, every household became busier and busier, cleaning up inside and outside, commonly known as dusting eaves, washing bedding, brewing wine, frying peanuts and broad beans, and purchasing food. People in urban and rural areas of the island generally have to mill steamed cakes, which has always been a custom.